Gryphon

joe1, very easy answer. YOU ARE UNDER PROPED.

Go with 7X5 or 7X6 on 3 cell Lipoly.

I would even PERSONALLY experiment with 8X5, because I know that it will unload and use much fewer amps once you get past 60 MPH if you are wide open throttle, other wise it will use much fewer amps part throttle. So can you use full throttle sparingly?

My friend uses the same motor as you, but the 3000 KV version, He puts on APC 6X5.5 and sets max advance on his ESC, he draws 47 AMPS static, that poor motor. He runs a CC35 AMP ESC. His motor is never hot because he flies part throttle, except when he wants top escape Earth's gravity by going WOT for a few seconds. The motor has been doing this with a bent shaft for 6 months now. He has been radared at about 100 MPH.

I think you are closer to 60 MPH, 7X5 should get you to about 70, 7X6 should get you to 75.
So whatever speed you think you are going, add about 15 MPH with 7X6.

There is nothing wrong with going past the limits of the motor, ESC, or the battery as long as you know what you are doing and you do it for a short time. Provide lots of cooling to the parts.
I just wish my friend would be using some cooling fins on his motor.....

Let me know what kind of AMPS your new props will pull. I have a good idea due to MOTOCALC, but I want to hear about your actual results.

I forgot to mention, you would be climbing harder, and accelerating harder too (will help with the launch).

Note: I have not seen the pictures yet, but regardless; if all that extra weight is from duct tape and carbon rods, I have to say that you did it wrong. I am sure some one is going to yell at me....
Look there are just a few critical areas that need to be re-enforced.
Tape: motor mount area, leading edge of the wings, maybe under/over the hinges for the elevons, a strip going down the belly of the plane.
Carbon fiber rod: one should do, going from side to side, a 2 ft rod behind the servos will almost connect the two stock rods. You only need this for planes that are 80+ MPH.
My friend at 100 MPH does not have a CF rod, he has covered his with the 3M Extreme tape (2" wide) that many people including me use.
The stuff is tuff and I think it weights in the neighborhood of one gram per 5" length. His plane is covered all over and it weights nowhere near yours.

I hope you find this useful,

Gryphon

Hagar69

Maxamus,
Had the camera for just over a week. Yes, I got the inspiration from watching your video
Use it almost every day now.

How do you mount yours to the plane?

I wonder if I should put on some colorful ribbon or a small parachute in case it gets ejected during high-G manouvers.

I tend do do tight inverted loops, once when I did that with my GWS Formosa the wing got ejected [X(] It was easy enough to find, but it is a lot bigger than the camera

Hagar

tims880

We have 2 planes on the same channel in my flying group. Does anyone have a stock transmitter and esc that they would like to sell? I need channel 5 or 6.
Thanks

siraerich

My Feedback: (4)

I have one, I think it is a channel 6. I got some extra servos too. I will check when I get home tonight. I only used it for 2 flights

tims880

Cool PM me with a price.
Tim

hornetnz

Upgrade Update: I've finally got sermos connectors on my batteries and the bullet connectors on the motor leads. The ESC is programmed and ready to go. I need to program the radio for v-tail setup, but that shouldnt be too difficult. Still working on painting the body, but thats almost done. Still have to figure out how I want to mount the BP21, but think im gonna try critterhunters bottle cap/pvc method. I considered the epoxying a square stick to the mount like a few of you did, but it didnt seem like it would be as crash-durable. Im startin to get excited, can't wait to see how the bird flies with this motor! Plus, it will be nice just to be able to use my real remote, instead of the craptacular PZ one. I will definatley post pics of the body once my paint job is done...think ya'll will like it!

mrstingray

I agree w/remotes. I used the hitec metal gear servos (24.00) and they fit right in the slot. W/my radio, I can also do dual rates and vtail mixing so that helped. Will roll like my GWS Mustang too!

I have channel 4 rx and servos if anyone needs to buy cheap (radio too).

Joe

sjchmura

BP-21+8x6 Slowflyer APC prop with LIGHT build ....

Well, my very very lgiht (Spektrum RX6/BP21, no fiberglass, minimal paint+sanding, 3 cell lipo) is incredible with this combo. I have the 30 amp ESC.

Much better then 7x5 and the battery gets warm (well cooled) but not "hot" like with teh stock F27b.

IT can go verticle until I cannot see it anylonger. Quite impressive. I can't imagine how great this would be with the 2409 "newer" BP-21 $20 motor.

AlM9SlDEWlNDER

I was thinking about switching to the darkside and I was wondering if helicopter brushless motors would work well on the stryker. I was thinking of the Align 430 motor. [link]http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=df_Align[/link] Is there any difference between the brushless motors for helicopters and the brushless motors used for airplanes? Are there any suggestions for the best motor that about $50 dollars can buy? Thank you for any help.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Gryphon :
I tried the 7x6 it was a cut down APC 8x6 it drew 59Amps and was 430 watts,I ran it for 5 seconds just to get the reading.
My motor got hot to where I could not hold on to it, it did not burn me, but it was to hot for that short time.
I then cut it to 5 1/2 x 6 and it drew 38 Amps and I forget what the watts were, but the motor still got pretty warm for the short run.
The HiMaxx 2815-2000Kv is only a 23 Amp Max motor, I have a 2815-1400kv motor that I tried a 8x6 on thinking that it was rated at 25 Amps I ran it for about 3 minutes WOT and it got so hot it started smelling and I wonder why, until I got the paper work out on it, and found out that it's max was 15 Amps.
I have not flown that plane since that happen and I hope it did not hurt it or I will be buying another motor, and now I might have done it again because the 2815-2000kv with the 7x6 got just as hot and smelled just in five seconds.
One thing the friends motor you mention is a 3000Kv and it's rated at 30 amps max which is higher then mine, but I don't see how you and him are getting by running that kind of amps even at short burst.
I will stick with a slower planes, at least I will not have to be replacing burn up motors, etc.
I will build another lighter Stryker that I can hand launch with the motor, etc, that I have in the mean time I will just launch the one I have from a hill.
Thank You

Gandalfg77

Hagar,

Got my 2409-12 + esc combo today, checked the online manual, not very helpful. Could you run me through how you setup the AeroNuts BLC 30a ESC.

Regards

Paul.

Hagar69

Paul,
I just followed the online manual But I agree that it is very hard to understand, reading it at the same time as trying to follow it made a little more sense.

However it should work in the default setting, the only problem is that defautl cutoff is set to 2s LIPO. So do not run until cutoff, but a short flight to confirm if your problems are related to motor or ESC would be OK.

The online manual describes the tones that will be heard when powering up the ESC with half throttle. I do not have a chance to look into it right now, maybe later today.

Hagar

maxamus

To fix cam to my stryker i got an old hatch and used a dremmel type tool to cut a hole in the hatch. Remove the cap from the bottom of the cam and use for a size template.


Then removed the bottom cap from the cam and passed a piece of string through the small hole at the bottom and tie a knot replace the cap and secure with tape then tie the other end to the carbon rod running through the middle of your stryker this will keep your cam safe and with the fuse if you have a crash ect ect then you can face it rearward or forward to suit



regards Maxamus

wo23dodge

Mine showed up yesterday but nobody was home to sign for it,the mail lady took it away with her,so I signed the card,put it in the mail box and left it,today she should have gotten it and tomorrow it should be left at the house,can't wait to see this pup

Is it the same physical size as a BP21?
guess I'll probably see tomorrow

Brian

Gryphon

joe1 , don't give up so soon.

1st stay away from those cut down props unless you have to run them.

2nd go ahead and try a regular 7X4, depending on the Amps, you can consider 7X5, or 6.5X4
Don't worry and prop it for low 30's (30-34) Amps range.

Look the prop will unload, and draw less while you are flying.

For just a 5 second test, I don’t see how you could have fried your motor or anything.
Make the test 3 seconds if you feel better, but do not take into account the reading of the first couple of seconds, because it is usually just a higher number while winding up and it will stabilize with a little lower number.
Check to see what your ESC has for the various default settings.
My New Castle Creations Phoenix 80 ESC came with 3 of the 8 settings different from the default settings. So you can only find out by getting into the setup.
My electronic timing was initially set at maximum, and my meter also read too high a number which caused me to investigate and I found out about the ESC setting and also that my wattmeter(watts-up meter) had gone bad/defective.
Really; the increased diameter will give you more thrust.

***Those numbers that I gave you for my friends Himaxx 2815-3000 was real and we used his proven and tested wattmeter. He left my Mega 16/25/3 with a 3S lipoly and 7X5 in the dust while he was out of control, diving up and down non stop during the race (his thrust angle and CG was way off). So he traveled a much longer distance bopping up and down during the race and also pulled away from me. I was only pulling 32 amps or so with my 1770KV motor.

you can not test a motor in your room for a long time. Just to cycle each of the (2)brand new 5S1P 2100 TP batteries I set my new motor on 9-10 Amps, and after 700 mAH I could not hold on to it anymore (180+Watts), some thing like 6-7 minutes I think. That was part throttle.

Look while you fly there is constant air moving over and through the motors. That is not the case in your room, Even the stock motor on 3S with lipoly prop got so hot in my room once that it started to poor out smoke after several minutes and it partially melted the rings of the original motor mount. I still have that (very first F-27) motor/motor mount as a reminder. That was after 10-11 minutes with my 3S2P 4200 TP battery.

Don't restrict yourself to a hill without at least knowing that you tried a little bigger prop.
According to MOTOCalc, with wide open throttle:
On 6.5X4 you will be back down to 25 Amps before 40 MPH.
On 7X4 you will be back down to 25 Amps before 45 MPH.
On 7X5 you will be back down to 25 Amps before 70 MPH.
These numbers will keep falling down with higher and higher plane speeds.

When you are already flying, and you go full throttle, how many seconds do you think it will take you to go fast? I think your motor can handle just a few seconds of higher amps before the prop unloading at higher speeds.

My mega distributor says that he likes to see the case temp no more than 140 degrees F, but your himaxx papers says 212 degrees F (100 C ). Look on http://www.maxxprod.com/pdf/HB2815-xx00.pdf
You can see that one of the test props for your motor was 7X4 prop which was tested to just below 9 volts. you will be about 9.5 Volts or so. The volt numbers are during applied load, full throttle.

Good luck with any decision that makes you feel comfortable.

Gryphon

Gandalfg77

Hagar,

Setup ESC as per manual, all good. Ran the 2409-12 with the EP8040, very nice vertical at 1/2 throttle, also the fact that it is only drawing 19 amps makes it all the more appealing. Put the 7x7.5 on and fried it, now it spins very slowly at full throttle, I am glad these motors are cheap. Anyway I am going to get another and run the EP8040 all the time on the stryker, and run the exact same setup on my 3d foamie, these motors are a good find.

Regards

Paul.

Hagar69

Paul,
Sorry to hear that you fried the motor (or was it the ESC)? Guess the 7x7.5 is pushing the limits a bit too far. I have been using 7x7.5 for quite some time now and never had any problems, but I might have been lucky. The motor is rated at 200W, and I'm pulling 300.

Today my colleague tried his new Stryker build with same Aero-Nuts combo as you have, but with 8x6 prop. It has insane thrust and seemd slightly faster than mine, however I was hauling a camera around today so had extra weight and drag. He got 10-15 minutes flying out of his 2650 mAh 3s2p pack. I usually get 5-6 minutes out of my 1700 mAh pack.

Order two motors the next time

Hagar

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Gryphon :
I found a M.Airscrew 7x4 that I had under everything in my box so I tried it and the amp draw was 31 for a few seconds and then went to 29 the watts was around 340.
I don't beleive I fried my motor when it got that hot, but I don't know if it will run as good as it did before as I have not been able to fly it since that happen.
I have not been into the electrics very long so I don't have the experience you do, so I will try this 7x4 and see what it does, I might try a 7x5 if I can get ahold of one, so far I have not been able to and I don't want to cut one because of not getting it exactly the same on both sides, I can balance it ok but that could cause a airflow problem right.
I agree about the air cooling the motor well we are flying, but when I run the 6x4 on it I can run it for the full battery charge static without it hardly getting warm, so when it got that hot with the 8x6 that quick it worried me.
You mention the ESC setting, I have a Great Planes Silver Series 45amp ESC and it is not programmable other then brake setting, at least the instructions does not say it is.
You mention the Himaxx Test on the 7x4 prop, the way I toke it was at 9 volts it was still drawing 25amps and if I followed it up the scale to 11.1 volt for a full charged battery it was going to be drawing 35amps which it is drawing 31amps as I mention above, and being my motor specs rates it at 23 max I did not want to take a chance on burning it up so that is why I went to the 6x4 at 20amps WOT
Thanks for letting me know on the other facts I did not know, and this is really great to have these R/C discussion forums, so people can share their thoughs but that's my 2cents worth.

jsbzmcdaniel

Hello........


I have been reading this tread and now my head hurts! ......

I am fairly new to RC and would like to upgrade my Stryker to a brushless setup w/ lipo battery.

Its my understanding that I will need to change the entire electronics as well.

Can someome list a great list of these upgrades that are proven?

Thanks in advance....

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi jsbzmcdaniel :
At the top of this page there is a Blue box, click on suggest compatible equip, this will give you some ideas.

emusylate

Question regarding charging stryker:

I charged my striker for about 40 minutes on 1.2 on the DC Peak charger but when i went to fly it wouldn't run on full power for very long. Only about 30 seconds. If I charge it on .3 (amps or whatever) will it work out better but just charge slower?

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi emusylate :
First of all, you need to tell everyone one type batteries you are charging and how many MAH pack you are charging, also is the pack new?

emusylate

The battery is a NI-MH 8.4v 900 mAh battery that has only been charged about 6 or 7 times.

Hagar69

Emusylate,
The stock charger is known to be false peaking from time to time. This means that it stops charging before it should. Try to charge again after it has stopped. Best option is to get a better charger.

All,
I had an interesting flight today . see video: [link=http://www.savefile.com/files.php?fid=6544910]Crazy Flight with rough landing[/link]

Hagar

wo23dodge

well my package from aero nuts showed up,hard to believe that small of an outrunner is going to be so powerful,I will throw a 7x6 prop on it and give it a go