gunracer

by back pressure do you mean up elevator?...if so, this would mean your model is way nose heavy or the elevators are trimmed down so she wants to nose in...if she was tail heavy, you would be putting forward pressure on the right stick trying to keep the nose down...check the cg and elevator trim settings again...

solar696

I don't believe it !
Look what the cat draged in on a sunday afternoon. Fed-ex ground on sunday? It is unheared of, butI like it
Placed the order on wednesday afternoon got the plane on sunday , not bad.

Fliprob17

I have 2 of these on the way. I was thinking of putting retracts on. Has anyone done this? Pics or instructions?

Also, I am going to run the Rimfire 35-30-950 kv motor on this. Should be plenty of power, about equal or a little more power than the smaller Park 480, and I was thinking about an APC 11x7E prop. Any ideas?

lthibault

Hi,

Yes there's a possibility for retracts. Look at the RC Group Thread on this electric warbird at [link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5694610&postcount=93[/link].

I've also posted a few improvements on this great product. But putting retracts on this bird is just a little bit toooo much for me.

kyle t

i noticed while i was building mine that the stock motor, when i place it on the mounting stick, is off center with the plane.
does any one elese have that on theirs?

solar696

Yes it is normal.
This how the motor's and the prop's torque pull is offset. Usually aimed to the right and down a bit.
If the stick would be straight forward, the plane would climb up and pull to the left so you would have to compensate all the time.

patnchris

I'm planning on flying mine, stock 4 channel for a while....before upgrading it to brushless....I gotta find something to do with all these brushed motors I'm accumulating....Pat

Cub_Boy

My Feedback: (6)

Hey guys;

I am a total electric novice...been flying gliders and power planes fro almost 20 years but this electric stuff is all new to me and I need some advice from you !


I just bought one of these as well... my power setup is as follows:

Park 450 Brushless Outrunner
Phoenix-35 Brushless Controller
Thunder Power 2100 Mah 3 Cell LIPO

Servos are: E-Flight S75

Prop: APC 11 x 7E


Sounds like the only place I went wrong here is on the prop based on what I read in this thread...


I was wondering about paint... any recommendations on paint that will not eat up the foam ????

solar696

I Agree, same here, I have a brushless laying around but to me it seems that the P-47 flies around at half throttle with the brushed motor just fine. When doing loops and rolls the added throttle is needed but it does just fine with the stock motor. Level flight at full throttle (to me) is nothing more than the plane gets away faster and trying to get it to come back toward me sooner. Furthermore, with the stock motor it seems to have more scale power. Once the stock brushed motor flames out then I may slap a BL in it.

Cub_boy,

I used Krylon -brand spray paint on my foam supercub. It's a really good paint, it dries in 10-15 min, adheres great and have good coverage.
Walmart has it.

kyle t

thanks solar 696, so now there is no more worries about how i got a defaulty plane!

kyle t

has anyone had any bad experiance with the e-flite S75's servos? Im thinking of useing them on my P-47. there are lots of reviews that say they stripp out fast, any comment on that?

patnchris

I think one reason that we're seeing a lot of E-Flight s-75 failures is that there are a lot of them out there. It appears to be the servo of choice for the majority of medium sized parkflyers. These planes are also the choice of many novice or first time pilots. So because there are lot of them, and they have a tendency to be crashed more, the failure occurence is bound to be higher.....Pat

gunracer

i've got about 60 of them and only two have stripped...one due to a crash and the other due to me dropping something on a model's elevator...

kyle t

ok, thanks.... i think ill go down to the LHS to buy some today. dang, cant fly today though, its snowing.

lthibault

Remember to remove those bombs until you've mastered the landings...

Wonder how the little rascal would look with skis?

Oh and also, be careful in the cold weather, if you're using a JR receiver the company doesn't ''guarantee performance''...

Rowdy_b64

I too have quite a few Brushed motors gathering up. Problem is the brushed esc's I have dont support lipo's .. does anyone else find themselves in this situation? I have a couple of 3s 2200 lipos but cant use them in anything but the aircraft I have with brushless motors and thus "lipo
friendly" esc's to match!
Thats why the option of using the stock motor first in my new p47 wasnt viable. I wouldnt have had any batteries suitable to power it. Shame!
Rod

solar696

Rod,

I hear you... I am in the same shoes. You have a couple options:
(This is what I do)
grab a kitchen timer, one with a buzzer or a bell, or you can use a stop watch too( my casio watch has a count back timer)
set it to 10 minutes at first. Fly your P-47 with the lipo. land when the buzzer go off. In 10 min it will surely not deplete a 2200Mah battery. when you go home check how much charge the lipo takes. Hopefully you hare a charger that shows how much juice was put in the battery during charging) record it.
next time set your clock to 15 min. and do the same see how much is depleted form your lipo.
i usually fly 15-18 min on a 2200 lipo. and still has reserve.

option 2: get your self a "li-saver" this is a device that hook in line between your ESC and the receiver (throttle wires) and one lead hook on to the battery when it sees the bat voltage gets to 9.0V it will cycle your throttle on-off a coulple times.
there are other devices available, one that will flash a bright LED- mounted on the plane somewhere- when your battery gets to a low voltage

option 3 : in my p-47 I have a 20 amp brushed ESC (not li-po friendly) often I just use a standard 10 cell 2/3A battery pack . I get a good flight out of it.

option 4: li-po friendly ESC. just like the typhoon has where you can easily set your batt preference- li-po or ni-hi and it will do the cut of for you.

Rowdy_b64

Thanks for all that mate,
I will check out my Swallow charger .. I think from memory all it tells me is the charge duration .. not sure. What does yours tell you that would indicate the level of depletion ??
I also have a 2s lipo I would like to run in my Freedom and supercub .. if I could use the same method to determine flight time it would be really cool .. the inline li-saver sounds like a good option too.
Cheers
Rod

thenamshow

hey guys, got this plane. build was very simple and i just love the looks. any idea for a prop i have a 450 outrunner with a 20 amp speed control also when i did the rudder it came out all weird will post pictures soon

thenamshow

well here are the pictures

kyle t

looking off of those pics i cant see anything in particular that looks wrong with it, on mine i just decided not to use the rudder. (less complex)!

solar696

Oh I see.... the charger I use (hobbico Elite) tells both the duration and how many amps are pumped back in to the battery. How many amp is the important part. How fast (duration), only depends on the charge rate.
In theory, what ever is drawn out, the same amount can be put back in. Say: in a 15 min flight I may draw 1600Ma out of the 2100Mah li-po pack. I know this because when I go to charge it, (once the battery is peaked or fully charged) the charger's display indicates that about 1600 Ma was charged back into the battery.
Now this is only true if your charger is a peak charger and stops charging once the pack reach full holding capacity.
The same is true for other batteries such as nickel metal hydrates.
My ten cell Nm-hi pack is rated at 1100 Mah.
Just about every time I run the battery(Nm-Hi) fully down ( the airplane accelerates poorly, or just barely flies) when i go to charge it the charger peak charges the battery and displays 1000- 1150 Ma.

solar696

Oh man ....you are missing out on some cool stuff. How else can you do wing overs? - This is when you go vertical, just before it stalls you apply full rudder the plane will pivot on its wing tip. Crop dusters use this trick.
Or fly upside down, keep level flight and steer only with the rudder.
Barrel rolls -.... you need rudder.

solar696

it does not look too bad, from the pictures it looks like it is a bit off centered to the left side.

Rowdy_b64

Me either .. however might be easier to see if the shots were clearer! (got a bit to close in with the camera I think). I too decided to go rudderless for at least the first few flights.
Just wondering, how would the absence of a rudder effect aerobatics down the track. Not that I do this, but I believe I have read that some things require rudder .. like a hammerhead stall .. (or rather recovering from it! )..??
I know that I dont need it for normal flight .. so I havent bothered with it an the min.
Cheers
Rod