taterm15

I just finished building the eflite p-47. I put the 450 brushless motor with the 20 amp esc. also running a 3 cell lipo. This thing should have plenty of power. Its first flight will be tomorrow afternoon. Just wondering from you guys what to expect. ive never flown aeilorons before in real life. I can fly it all day long on the sim no problem. ie....p-51, Texan. The only plane i have flown in real life is my beefed up slo v. it has a 400 inrunner and will do anything you want it to do. Hang from prop, climb straight up, loops, inverted. ....i fly it with ease and always take off and land from the ground. it is no where near slow. Do you think the p57 will want to roll to the left while taking off? i guess its from the torque of the motor. the planes in the sim do. I feel very confident that i can fly this plane in real life, i just want your opinion on what to expect. the thought of crashing on the first flight is not good. Also, how big of an area do you reccomend? the place i fly now is about the size of a football field. i can also go way out beyond that once above tree top level. thanks in advance.

redgiki

This is just general advice. I'm a passionate flyer, but not such a passionate builder

Some thoughts:

* The FMS simulator for the P-47 is overpowered.

Try doing everything that you normally do in the sim, but don't advance the throttle beyond halfway in the sim. This way, you're closer to the performance of the bird with a 450. Note that this is based upon what others have said in related threads, as I haven't built my bird yet (the parts come in Friday!). But having flown several other FMS models which are extraordinarily overpowered compared to their real-life counterparts, it's probably sound advice in general: try flying the plane at a much lower throttle setting and see how you do.

* Sims can't account well for builder or mechanical error.

Double-check your linkages. Make sure your ailerons go in the right direction when you wiggle your sticks! (This has bitten more pilots than you'd imagine). Do your full range check, and make sure to do so under full-throttle if possible (it helps to have a buddy for this, though a tie-down or a rack will do the job). Make sure your antenna is unobstructed, and well clear of any metal pushrods or other things in or on your plane.

* Sims can't teach you good throwing technique.

I'd strongly recommend doing an actual take-off with the plane, rather than throwing it. If you must throw, have someone you trust with your plane throw, rather than you by yourself. This bird is a little bigger than most park flyers, and although it has a low stall speed, it's still a little cumbersome compared to throwing, say, a Slow Stick or a Parkzone J-3 Cub.


* Verify your thrust is adequate.

A simple test is to hold the plane in your hand, pointing straight up. Does it feel as if it wants to leap out of your hand when you advance to full throttle? This power combination will haul the bird around with authority, but it won't give you unlimited vertical. You should verify you're getting a good strong "pull" of at least half the weight of the bird in a static, "by feel" test. This may also alert you to if you put you prop on backwards; lack of a good strong wind off the prop is fatal.

* Check your temperatures

If it's below freezing outside for your maiden, you will want to pre-warm your LiPos or NiMH batteries prior to your flight, and maybe take pains to ensure they remain warm in flight. About twenty minutes in my pants pocket seems to do the job for me with my other planes, and I routinely block battery ventilation during colder months to keep voltage up.

* Check your voltages

Make sure your batteries are putting out enough voltage! They should read well above the rated voltage for the pack. If not, then top them off. If you've used a battery at all for any bench testing, even a little bit, and you intend to use it for flying, top it off.

* Test your landing gear

Do a "drop test" of at least six inches to simulate a landing and make sure your gear can take the strain. Also check if it's easy to "nose over" on the plane; if the landing gear are not far enough forward of the CG on a tail-dragger, you'll tend to break props and cowlings. Just bend the landing gear forward a bit until they're under the leading edge of the wing.

* "Shake Test"

Shake your plane *hard*, back and forth, side to side, and up and down. If anything is shifting around, lock it down.

Good luck on your maiden! I should be having my own maiden with this bird in a week or so Thanks to the threads I've read regarding the experiences of others, and my own flying experience, I'm confident it will go well.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Excellent set of tips redgiki.
Some to add, If you try the ROG, or take off from the ground. Make sure you take off into the wind. Advance the throttle enough to get her rolling, and keep increasing it until she's off.
Has a tendency to nose over if you hammer the throttle. Unless you have the rudder hooked up, she may want to turn to the left on roll out, again slow throttle advances will help with this.
And yes she will have a slight roll to the left on take off, can be over ridden with presetting a little right aileron. Aileron turns will need up elevator to keep the nose up.
All in all, it's a very easy to fly bird. Your speed is going to be a lot faster then the Slo-V for hands off flight. Get her airborne, back off the throttle to around 1/2 and do any trimming necessary. Then go for it. Landings are a breeze also, again into the wind and she'll float right in. As soon as the mains hit, start adding up elevator and cut the throttle. She'll settle right in.

netdudeuk

GG

I'm interested in your comments about it being easy to fly. I know that you know your stuff so an explanation would be appreciated. Slo-V to low wing warbird ??

Thanks

Jagzilla

I would be prepared for how much more quickly this sort of plane will respond to the controls. Make sure you have set control surface throws, especially the elevator to the factory recommendations. This bird will fly nothing like your slow V. I would also highly recommend keeping the plane close to you and out in front of you when you first fly it. Orientation is so easily lost on these, especially when they start to get some distance from you. It is very easy to suddenly not know if the plane is upside down or not, or in a turn or not, etc. This usually results in a crash. Also, avoid flying it right up over your head, keep it well out in front of you. Again, orientations is easily lost when its straight up above you.
This plane is a great flyer, but is still a low wing warbird. I wouldn't recommend it as a second plane. Having said that, best of luck in your maiden! If the weather is good after work, I'll be maidening my new Eflight P-47 as well today.
J

redgiki

I concur with the previous poster. In the "stock" configuration of just ailerons and elevators, I think it would be do-able but a very large jump. This is my sixth bird, and I've had plenty of stick time flying other people's planes, too. Getting used to the speed of something flying 40+ MPH after flying the Slow Stick, which usually goes less than 15MPH, is a big challenge.

I suspect you could get over that hump fairly easily by spending a lot of time on a simulator, practicing control throughout the entire flight envelope. If you focus on touch-and-goes in the sim until you can do it without thinking about it, you can at least be reasonably assured you can bring your bird down in one piece (assuming no mechanical problems). Sim time is really helpful learning new tricks, and learning how to control your rig in various extreme situations

My route was:
* J-3 cub. Repeatedly destroyed. Bought it three times. I really should have started with something else.
* Spent about 20 hours on a simulator playing with various models. Discovered the Stick line of planes, and how easy they were to control and repair. Wanted one.
* Repaired a friend's "Patriot". Crappy, terrible, tiny little electric plane with a wing loading so high it probably wouldn't fly at sea level, much less 5000+ feet where I live. Flew like a rock. Ripped apart for parts for my:
* Slow Stick. I found myself wishing I'd had this for my first plane. The Patriot was horrible, but the electronics worked fine as a receiver and servos for my SS.
* F-27 "B" Stryker. I'd consider this a great intermediate to a low-wing warbird. It will teach you roll orientation, is not neutrally stable, and has some gentle self-righting and excellent low-speed stall characteristics that make it a keeper. I bought it, maidened it, nearly crashed it. Went back to the simulator for about 40 hours to practice basic manuevers (high-speed pass, low-speed pass, keeping in the "pattern", split-s, immelman, cuban eight, etc.) When I got back to the field after the sim time, I flew sufficiently well to make people think I was pretty good. But my knees were shaking: even a stock Stryker on LiPos is FAST after a J-3 Cub or Slow Stick!
* Wild Wing. Flying-wing. Haven't actually had real-life stick time on this, as I began construction towards the end of the flying season. I have about 40 hours of sim time on it, though. Pretty similar to a Stryker, but I wanted something for combat.
* P-47. I have no sim time on this. I need some prior to my first flight. I'm confident enough in my repair and building to be willing to maiden it without an extensive one-over by a club vet, though.

I don't think you need to wait for 5 planes! But I think the jump from a Slow Stick or Slo-V to a low-wing warbird is severe, without significant sim time or a trainer to help you out.

As a final tip, joining a club is a big help. The time spent swapping tips with club-mates, getting experienced pilots to inspect and maiden my aircraft, and seeing what other choices are out there is invaluable. Plus they may be willing to buddy-box with you. My next planned build is a full-house electric sailplane. You can bet your sweet patoot I'll be looking for club members into sailplanes to help me out!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Heavens no. Sorry I didn't mean the jump from the V to the Jug.
I was referencing it's flight characteristics vs something like the PZ Mustang.
Flying the Jug is like flying a trainer. I've yet to find a nasty habit from it.
Can't say the same on the Stang. It's just waiting to turn around and bite you.
Sorry for the confusion.
I too agree, going from the V to a low wing bird is a big jump. Not saying you can't do it, just most aren't .
Best of luck if you do try it .

taterm15

Well....Thanks for all the reply. I just got back from the first flight with the p47. it was awesome. i had no problem at all. the only thing that suprised me was how responsive it was. i think i may set up exponetial on my radio for next time but im not for sure. It is a really big jump, but obviously it is manageable. The only problem i have with it is landing. im not used to coming in fast. i may can slow it down a little but im afraid for a stall, i was also using my aeilrons as flaps on a 5th channel. like i said i had a suped up slo v with a brushless 400 motor in it. it was very fast. the only other training was on the sim, but i also have very good coordination. all in all i am very pleased and i may go back out today as soon as both lipos are recharged.

Jagzilla

Congrats on your successful maiden,taterm15!!! Way to go.
My maiden today was also successful. Put 3 flights on her, about 5 minutes each. Using a Himaxx 2812-850 outrunner, APC 10x7 electric, and Polyquest 1500Mah 3 cell (20c). AUW at 24 oz's, with 2 oz's of lead in the nose.
Plane flew nice and well mannered. Not a screamer wiith my motor choice for this one, but decent enough in the speed. Tends to nose over on the landings in the grass, but I knew that was going to be an issue from what others have posted. Certainly looks cool doing a slow speed flyby with those bombs hanging under the wings!
Jaggy

taterm15

awesome....My setup is a e-flite 450 brushless outrunner, 3 cell 1900 lipo, 10 x 8 prop. i ran her for 4 flights, and it has more than enough power. i never ran a high speed pass, but i did some slow passes, loops, barrel rolls. Like i said earlier the only thing i had trouble with is landings. it always nosed over. on one occasion it tore my left landing gear out. that was somthing that i was expecting from reading other posts. on my last landing of the day my motor mount came loose. I just got done fixing all problems with low temp hot glue.....that stuff works miracles. i bought a new wood square and made a new longer motor mount and it is secured way better than the crappy glue they put on at eflite. my plane is now better than new and waiting to be airborn once again. if you have any tips about landing please let me know. thanks

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Congradulations, you are now officially hooked.

Unless you have low grass or a paved surface, it's a little tuff keeping the nose up.
Make sure the gear centerline is at or slightly ahead of the wing leading edge.
Expo will definitely help. You can then go with more throws on your control surfaces for more response, and still have an easy flying bird.
I have my elevator throws maxed out, helps, keep the nose up on landings.

As for landing speeds, practice(at alttitude) stalls, see how slow you can go before she drops her nose. You'll be supprised how slow she will float in. Also the more wind you fly into will help, keeping her up as you land.

gunracer

i'm interested in this plane...what's the best set up for the aileron servos..."y" harness vs. two servo extensions...i have a dx6 so i can go either way....just wondering if there were pros and cons to each set up...thanks in advance...

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Hey if you got it, use it.
Would give you independent adjustment for each aileron, and you could program in some flap usage.

MT_FLYER

maybe I missed this...

Where can I find the P47 FMS download????

shotdown

I have to say your signature is the best I've seen on RCU! Your knowledge is also very impressive! If you didn't live so far away,and I knew you were single...I'd ask you out! Keep up the good work!(people like you make RCU the great site it is).

droptine

P-47 FMS models here:
http://www20.brinkster.com/jimflint80/fms/fms.html

gunracer

thanks gg...i went with your recommendation...since i wasn't getting equal throws on the ailerons, i was able to dial them just like you said...i'm still tweaking the flaperon mix with the elevator...thanks again for all your great advice...

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Uhhhh Guys, You're starting to scare me now.[X(]
"Glacier Girl" is an airplane. www.thelostsquadron.com

And nineheli, I don't think my wife would like you asking me out. She already thinks I'm a little crazy.

shotdown

Sorry about that Glacier Girl !![sm=spinnyeyes.gif] My wife would also think I switched sides![:'(] I would still like to know half of what you forgot about flying! And your sig is cool.

lthibault

I've completed over 50 flights with this airplane and I still enjoy it very much! With the High performance setup (Park 480 Brushless, 2100 Mha 3 cell lipos), it has great power and agility.

My local club members were amazed by the look and level of details. Made many low passes and high speed dives, inverted flying, etc.
Just a few recommendations:

-The plastic horns on the ailerons may use a little extra reinforcement (I've put epoxy on them for extra security)

-After a few fights the wood stick holding the Brushless motor became a little loose. Found that it was glued in the foam with just a tiny bit of glue. Better put plenty of epoxy in there!

-Remove the fake bombs during your first flights; they are fragile and will break on rough landings

-My favorite landing technique is the "dive approach"; the plane is light and with some wind I like to get it close to the runway and dive full down then raise her slowly, with just a little bit of throttle management at the end you will accomplish the most gentle landings.

-If you can put the extra servo and use the rudder! You will make elegant and quick turns.


On the overall this airplane flies on rails. I have nothing to say against this product.

Good luck and enjoy!

redgiki

Well, here I am, almost six months later. The P-47D is my daily driver; it goes to the field pretty much every time I do.

The Park 450 is an ideal motor for this bird, but it's helpful to go to a lower-pitched prop, such as a 10x5, to reduce the amp draw. The 10x8 draws around 18 amps at full throttle, and while this is within the 20-amp continuous rating of the ESC, it's a few amps above the max rating for the motor. The motor never comes down hot, though, but the kind of speed you can pull out of the 450 is definitely not "scale". Five-foot takeoff rolls to nearly-vertical takeoffs weren't in the cards for the original

Anyway, she remains a very sweet flyer, but after months of flying her 5-15 times a week, her shortcomings have become apparent. Chief among them is the cheap foam construction; it's very weak, and unless you take the time to beef up and fiberglass key points, you'll be disappointed at the amount of maintenance you have to do to keep her flying.

Parts to consider reinforcing with fiberglass, tape, epoxy, or your other favorite method:
* Landing gear mounts, where they attach to the foam.
* Aileron control horn connections (the foam, not the horn itself, tends to tear)
* Elevator U-rod (beef up the foam it inserts into, or your non-control-horn-driven elevator will tend to wiggle
* Leading edges of wings and tail
* Motor mount stick
* Bottom of cowling (the plastic there is very thin, and tore open on two cowlings for me; now I just have it fiberglass-taped closed.)
* Edges of cockpit hatch (trying to pull the canopy off tends to squash the foam)
* Belly pan, if you belly-land
* Edges of wingtips and stab tips. They break off very easily due to the panel lines

I also just leave off the plastic wing covers; they are a lot of trouble.

Like I said, she gets flown pretty much every time I go to the field, but be aware of the shortcomings going into the purchase. I'm thinking of buying a bigger P-47 now (like a .60 size) because I've learned that the sweet, mild, aerobatic properties are inherent to this airframe, and not just this particular model.

Happy flying!

traxxboy

I have noticed that this post went dead i have a question? How durable is the e-flite p-47. Compared to say a gws me-109. Thanks.

John Hanske

In my opinion,the Eflite p47 is not quite as durable as a balsa plane. On numerous occasions, I have suffered hangar rash, specifically the part of the wing that extends next to the aileron ends. Don't expect it to stand up to too much abuse. Having said that, I LOVE IT!! It flies like a warbird should, quick and maneuverable. I use a 450, 10-7 prop and 2100 3 cell lipos with the eflite brushless controller. Gws pico+ servos on the ailerons, eflite s-75 on the elevator. When my first one started showing wear, I bought another one, and swapped everything over in about 1 hour. I have about 35 flights on mine. Here is a great tip--- go to wal mart, buy a pack of round magnets {strength rating 2 3/8 or so size}. hot glue a magnet to the bomb, hot glue another on the wing. don't use the bomb racks.. make sure the magnets are properly aligned with no twist. The bombs stay on even at full throttle until you go into a shallow dive, and then BOMBS AWAY!!!

The Rook

Has anyone tried flaperons with the eflite P-47? I was interested in finding out how flaperons worked with this particular aircraft.
Thanks,
J

lthibault

I have both foam and balsa-built airplanes. The E-flight P47 will last long if you take a little bit of time to reinforce and improve it:

-Put epoxy around the motor stick, the control horns

-For the canopy hatch, I've put the end of a popsicle stick under the foam (very short piece, about half-inch), expoxy it and paint it. So I don't need to scratch the canopy edges when I remove it

-Landing gear: also need reinforcement, put epoxy and possibly a little bit of balsa

-Bomb supports: epoxy them and remove the bombs if you land on grass.

-I've decided to use Dubro plastic hinges on ailerons, stab and rudder

-Nice touchup is to paint the white foam between moving parts to match with the yellow and black colors

-Cowling: I've painted over the yellow and black squares, they loose color easily

-Too bad the tailwheel is not steerable. That might be my next improvement.


Part are available and not too expensive.

Enjoy!