jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

Well this is my first e power plane, and first park flyer. Until now I have been strictly a wet fuel flyer. I bought the "wolf" yesterday and spent the evening making sure everything was right. This morning in spite of gust to 15mph, I went for it. I am pleasantly pleased with the way this bird flew. It is everything I hoped it would be. Maybe better than I expected! I used the prop weight and also I am going to upgrade the batteries to li-po ASAP! Anyway, two succesful flights on it and hopefully many more to come. It's a keeper.

dubd

I bought the Wulf today and immediately upgraded to lipos prior to flying it. I have 4 flights on her and I am happy. I could use a little more power, but thats probably because I am use to flying 4-stroke gas warbirds.

If you are using the battery that came with the RTF, you HAVE to toss the plane WOT and INTO the wind. Anything less than WOT and into the wind will result in the plane dropping a wing and nosing into the ground. With a 3S lipo battery you can use 70% power and toss the plane without a problem. Given that, I still go WOT when launching.

Bonefisher

Just got back from travel and flew today... my friend picked up a F27 and we had a ball....

four or five flights in good wind and the planes were great.

The FW109 def holds its edge a little better in wind due to the weight of the plane....

traxxboy

Hello I have a stryker right now and was wondering if i should get the fw 190 or the p-51. Thanks

htjoel

Hello Traxxboy,

I own both the PZ Mustang and the PZ FW-190. In all honesty I like the performance of the 190 a little better. It's a little lighter than the Mustang and the refinements to the basic design are great, i.e. battery goes inside fuse on top, hatch is held by neodymium magnets, finger holds on bottom of fuse, etc.

The 'Stang is definitely much easier to recognize due to its distinct fuse shape, but if it's performance and not looks you're looking for, go for the Focke-Wulf 190. Just my .02 worth!

Good luck,
Joel

traxxboy

thanks alot. I ahve been lookng for a rtf warbird and found these

Bonefisher

Traxxboy,

I could not agree with HT more.... friends have the P51 and the FW is more like the second generation of that plane.. better power to weight, a little more durable, and better access to the electronics...

I have ordered the f27B frame and am going to build one from ground up to go with the FW.....

Good luck flying... had a ball this past weekend with the planes out in Miami.

htjoel

Hey Bonefisher,

Didja see the new F-27C BRUSHLESS Stryker? Available as a P-N-P or as RTF and the paint scheme isn't bad either...

Have you tried flying your FW-190 without the propweight yet? How are you on inverted flight? My butcher bird will fly all day inverted with just a little down elevator.

Cheers,
Joel

Bonefisher

Yep... saw the f27C last night.... very cool... but the f27b with lipo (brothers) is already SCARY fast.... so i do not know if i will be upgrading... i enjoy the low speed passes :-)

Still flying with the prop-weight, have not tried without yet... inverted is going well....

Are you flying with or without the weight?

Also, are you flying with or without lipo? Love for someone to tell me approx how much more power the lipo gives in regards to actual performance....

Thanks... look forward to the responses :-)

htjoel

Hello again Bonefisher,

I have never used the propweight as the Wulf balanced perfectly on indicated CG (little boxes next to where wing and fuselage meet). I am still flying both the PZ Mustang and the Focke-Wulf completely stock so unfortunately I don't have any upgrade/performance tips for you... LiPo technology still a little expensive (batt+charger = approx $130-$150) so I have been buying full RTF combos for the same price as a single LiPo/Charger combo.

Guys on the PZ Mustang thread have been using LiPo with good results, however, so I may take the plunge sooner rather than later.

Cheers,
Joel

Bonefisher

FYI... i spent a bunch of time creating / modifying a Realflight G3 plane to really closely match the FW and P-51....

I dont know how to post the file (if anyon wants it) as it is a .plng3 file....

Let me know if there is any interest from someone using realflight G3 and how to post such a file....

Bonefisher

Joel, I am looking at taking the plunge as well... found some good batteries in the 70 range and i think / hope that 15%-20% power bump would be worth it...

Let me know how it goes...

htjoel

Hey Boney,

Yeah, after much consulting with LHS and ParkZone, what they recommend is the ThunderPower 3s 2100 mAh lipo w/ a 16C discharge rate. For 75 bucks and another 50-100 for a LiPo charger with cell balancer however, I can easily pick up another full RTF combo!

Got my eye on the new Piper Super Cub from Hobbyzone w/ 480 class motor and decent size, apparently the batts from my 'Stang and Butcher Bird will work perfectly in this model.

As to your G3 mod, I only have FMS and I don't think the files are interchangeable []...bummer, would really like to see what you came up with!

Keep 'em flying,
Joel

gunracer

for 3s 2100 batts, look at the apex mk3...they are rated at 15c...you can get 2 for 100 with free shipping from gwsexpert...

traxxboy

Is it possible to strap a frop module to this plane

gunracer

traxxboy,

if you've got the stock pz electronics, then yes you can use the adm on the fw190...unless you've got landing gear, you'd have to put it on the side of the fuse...

tclaridge

Bonefisher,
I would be very interested in your models for G3. There is an option to export models on the Simulation menu. It creates a ".g3x" file that can then be imported into G3. If you post the file in this thread, we could download it. There is also a forum on the Knife Edge page that allows the posting an sharing of models.

I look forward to trying your models.

Bonefisher

Tclaridge...

I have sent the plane to the folks at Great Planes to post on their G3 website swap page (http://www.realflight.com/swap/g3aircraft.html)

I have no idea how long it will take them to put up but i will let you know as soon as i see it there...

sharam

My Feedback: (2)

I bought a ParkZone FW-190 a few weeks ago - upgraded to 3 cell 2100 TP lipo and I love every minute of it.

I am a heli pilot so my left thumb is on a constant search for the rudder stick!! I have gotten used to it now and thoroughly enjoy flying this little aircraft. Very nice job; durable construction- no nasty habits. Nice and stable!

Rube Goldberg

Comparing the FW-190 to the P-51D when it comes to these Parkzone models, I find the P-51D to be like a Chevy, and the FW-190D a Porsche with regard to the flight characteristics. The P-51D can't get out of its' own way. The FW-190 is very nimble and much faster.

I posted this to the Parkzone P-51D thread a few minutes ago, maybe somebody here will find it useful as well:

By FAR the worst part of the design with the Parkzone P-51D and the FW-190 is the fit of the pinion gear on the electric motor. I've spun them off of both the P-51 and the FW-190 several times now, each time with a different approach at fastening the pinion to the shaft.

Attempt #1: Foam compatible CA and baking soda with a shot of accelerant. Lasts for about 20 seconds at full throttle.

Attempt #2: Thin CA and accelerant only after "roughing up" the shaft with a file and coarse sandpaper. Even put the shaft in a vise to try and deform it from a circular cross section to more of an elipse. Lasted one flight.

Attempt #3: Sig Epoxolite putty. Lasted 20 seconds at full throttle.

Attempt #4: Thick gap filling CA and accelerant on the roughened, viced shaft. 2 1/2 flights.

Attempt #5: The "current fix of the day" and the one I'm counting on holding. Removing the entire engine assembly (as was done in all the other fixes) down to just the electric motor, take the pinion gear and put a slight chamfered bevel on the hole that fits the shaft at one end of the pinion with your pocket knife/exacto whatever. Just a little bit is all that is needed. Now then, you look around and find a bag of heat shrink tubing from your local radio shack. cut a piece about 1/2 longer than the motor shaft, slip it over the shaft leaving about 1/16 gap between the end of the tubing and the motor, heat the tubing up with a lighter to shrink it to the shaft....let cool completely. Take pinion gear and slip it over the excess tubing with the beveled end of the gear towards the motor. Get it started on straight at the shaft, and try to pull the gear onto the shaft over the tubing while pulling on the end of the tubing to stretch it and make it thinner! At some point, invert the engine and push down HARD to finally slide the gear into position. If you wind up with a small "accordian" of tubing at the motor, cut it off with your knife. I think this is going to be the ticket!

tclaridge

I also get planes from the software company that does the Sim (Knife Edge) at this location. I just had to register, and then I can download/upload.

http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=67

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

Rube, you have spent how much trying to "fix" the pinion gear? I got 16 flights using a lipo pack before the p gear went south. Happened in mid-flight. I just replaced the motor for $10.99. No big deal. However, I can see that I will have to upgrade the motor in this plane if I want to fly it. But is it worth it to replace ALL the gear in this plane...I don't know?

htjoel

Howdy All,

After over 75+ flights on the PZ Mustang and 25+ flights on the FW-190, I have only had to replace motor ONCE due to a spun pinion. This was after a botched landing early in the Mustang's life...motor was still spinning when I dropped a wingtip and spun into the ground. I followed a few suggestions including red and blue loctite, roughing shaft, medium CA, etc. After a little frustration, I just went ahead and spent the $10.99 and bought a new motor .

Still flying stock, weekend pilot (and schoolyard terror) that I am I really see no need to upgrade motor. The Focke-Wulf is plenty fast after a FRESH charge and top-up right before flight. Bang for the buck, I think that PZ makes a heck of a product that looks great and flies well for what it is, a convenient, relatively inexpensive way to indulge my flying addiction.

I did, however, find an error in my FW-190 which I detailed earlier on this thread: out of the box, my 190's motor was NOT screwed in place...thankfully enough this did not lead to a catastrophic failure and my LHS fixed the issue immediately. Bird has flown flawlessly since then, even surviving another botched landing without a scratch . Can't blame the bird, landing into a 15 mph+ headwind and didn't keep my speed up, dropped a tip from about 6 feet up. Total rookie move after very nice flight, felt really dumb .

keep 'em flying,
Joel

gunracer

the fw190 and p51 really need to be flown, under power, to the ground for landing...when i prepare to land, i descend by using only 15-20% throttle...i line it up as straight as i can to minimize corrections on final...i keep her at 15-20% throttle until she's about 2 ft off the gound..at this point, i'll cut the throttle, give her down elevator, and softly mush her into the grass...this is what works for me...i think most tip stalls on landings occur when people try to glide her in or bring her in without enough power trying to land her as softly as possible...this is a mistake...they misjudge the plane's stall speed and when she drops that wing it's too late to do anything...as long as the grass is long enough, the plane can take a pretty fast landing and suffer no damage...

Rube Goldberg

I guess perhaps I got a "bad run" of the Parkzone products from the same hobby shop? The deal with the pinion spinning off the motor shaft is flat out annoying. I've got a new motor/pinion assembly on order, and I also have 5 packages of the pair of pinions also on order.

May as well update my thread above:

Fix attempt #5 with the shrink tubing lasted about 30 seconds.

Fix attempt #6 with "Gorilla Glue" cured for 30 hours actually lasted 1 and 1/2 flights.

Fix attempt #7 with Peramtex Green (penetrating grade for very small fasteners) Loctite cured for 30 hours on the FW 190 is still holding after 2 flights. Permatex makes a product that works like an accelerant for the CA glues to use with Loctite that cures in 5 minutes. GOOD LUCK finding it anywhere!

FWIW I have yet to get more than 6 or 7 minutes out of the stock NiMH batteries, even at about 65-70% throttle...just enough to maintain altitude. Parkzones claim of 12-15 minutes flight time is way off the mark from what I've seen. Perhaps that is why I've seen at least one of the retailers giving you the option of an extra NiMH battery for free, or a discounted price on the LiPo battery. So for what you think you are getting for $179 is really going to cost you about $300. And that isn't much of a "deal" as it first appears, IMO.