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  1. #226

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hey Hutt,

    If you want to see how the retrofit of floats works on a Multiplex Easy Glider-Electric, there are a couple of videos on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pa4aUP3LMs & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0trzthp9GM

    Easy Glider is pretty different from Skyfly I know, but might give some ambitious soul some ideas.

    I believe that both these guys had to do motor upgrades to get there unit to take off from water.

  2. #227

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    That's a good question Dave. I think I'd reduce one and increase the other at the same time, only I'd start with pretty small increments and work up from there. As far as rudders losing authority on twin engine planes, I wouldn't get too concerned with that. This IS after all a Sky Fly we're talking about here, not exactly an aircraft that's likely to attain speeds that will cause severe control surface deflection, LOL. However with your dual power setup, one never knows . . . .

    I charged up my DX6 and here's what I found:

    Get to the mixing screens. I used mix A, which can be identified by the screen display of "A11". What you need to do is push the left button down until you get to the screen where you can change the mixed channels, with 11 or 1 and 1 being the default. I'm probably losing you but I hope not, if you've been monkeying with yours hopefully all of this is still fresh in your mind. Basically you need to change the numbers to say 1 and whatever channel you're using for your other ESC. We'll say 6. That being the case, when you're done it should read "A16" when you scroll back to that screen. There's a screen in there, you can scroll through them by continuing to push the left or channel button down until you find it, that will allow you to select a switch, or simply set the mix to "on" which is what you want in the case of your throttles. There's also a screen in there that will allow you to set the differential, and that's where the 50 or 100 percent comes in. I'm having trouble fiddling with the radio typing this message at the same time since my DX6 keeps drowning out my router and I keep losing my internet connection if I try to do both at the same time, LOL, so bear with me if I'm omitting something. Once you get to that point you should be able to use the servo test to see if you're getting the results that you're looking for. If you're unable to get it working with this, let me know and I'll go through all of the motions and give you a better explanation. I was just fooling with the tx tonight with no receiver or servos but this seems like it should work. Like I said, let me know and if you still can't get it working I'll bind up a receiver and figure it out to completion. I'll also take notes so I don't forget what to tell you instead of fooling with the thing setting at the computer, because I'm getting sick of restarting my wireless card, LOL.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  3. #228

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi raginredneck93,
    I managed to get both my ESC to 'arm', plugged into seperate channels (1 & 6) !!! The problem related the 'Travel Adjustment set at 100% for Channel 6. I reduced it down to zero, and it seems to of fixed the problem. They now both 'arm' and work from seperate throttle channels. However, (here I go ...) with MixB set to mix +25%/-25% and MixC set to mix -25%/+25%, the throttles are not working as expected. I expected one motor to increase, while the other decreases as I apply rudder input. What happens is when moving the rudder one way, one motor speeds up, the other remains unchanged - When moving the rudder the other way, one slows down and the same one increases again. I might re-try with just MixB enabled, and then introduce MixC when things begin to make sense. Have you had any luck with your DX6 mixing ?

  4. #229

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly


    ORIGINAL: Trijack

    Hey Hutt,

    If you want to see how the retrofit of floats works on a Multiplex Easy Glider-Electric, there are a couple of videos on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pa4aUP3LMs & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0trzthp9GM

    Easy Glider is pretty different from Skyfly I know, but might give some ambitious soul some ideas.

    I believe that both these guys had to do motor upgrades to get there unit to take off from water.

    If you're talking about an Easy Star, (as opposed to an Easy Glider), I can definitely see the motor upgrades coming into play. I've flown one with the stock motor setup and they are a good bit less powerful than a Sky Fly. When I test flew my friend's Easy Star for him, the first thing I said actually was, "Wow, this is an excellent trainer. Sort of like my Sky Fly on Valium." LOL. I wasn't being sarcastic about it being a good trainer either. If a newb doesn't know how to control the thing, they practically have time to set the transmitter down, walk over and ask someone, then pick it up and turn the airplane around. I've never flown anything that was as stable as that thing. It seriously does fly itself, and extremely slowly at that. A bit more motor/battery, and they'd be a great camera ship methinks. That is definitely one plane that I can see someone modifying however. I was totally bored with it by the end of the first flight, it's literally that anemic. My friend however, who had never flown an RC airplane in his life except for about 10 minutes on my simulator, picked up the tx and took right off with the thing no problem. I hand launched it for him on the first couple flights, then he was off and running on his own. Also, the radio range with the stock receiver sucks. I figured that being a larger plane, and a 72 mHz radio, the range would be far superior but not the case with the included single conversion rx. I've never had a glitch with my Sky Fly and I've flown it almost out of sight. His Easy Star would go brain dead at half that distance. If a person wants to mess with one, I'd suggest the ARF version instead of the RTF. That way they could get a decent radio, and a cheap brushless and lipo battery would probably really wake the thing up. When he gets it back out this year we're planning on trying a dual conversion rx that I've got laying around collecting dust now that I fly Spektrum gear. Should fix the range issue, but it'll still be gutless.

    Hang in there lambodave, haven't had time to monkey with it yet. Glad to hear that you got the throttles working anyway. I never even thought about the travel adj. for channel 6. Apparently you have to turn off the default function for channel 6 in order for the mixed function to work? I honestly never fooled around with the mixing too much on my DX6, so I'm just as curious as you on this one. Especially since I'm intending on running basically the same setup on my P38, and the programming on my DX7 is probably pretty similar except for the ability to do it on a slightly larger screen. Did you try setting your mixes the same on both sides? As in +25/-25 instead of reversing them? I'll fool with it this afternoon. This problem has me perplexed and extremely curious. My DX6 was my first computer radio, and the first time I tried to program it I was banging my head against a wall too. I was trying to set up elevons on a flying wing, and couldn't get them to move the right direction at the right time to save my soul. I finally ended up getting it right, but it took awhile. The next adventure was trying to get the flaperon function to work on my J3 Cub. No matter what I did the ailerons would either both move up, both move down, or they'd be backwards, or one would move up but the other wouldn't go down, or one would travel farther than the other. I finally posted a question on the Spektrum forum here and got an answer. Turned out I was doing it wrong, but the right way still doesn't make that much sense to me. Just one more thing that I like about my DX7, the programming seems to be a fair bit more intuitive if for no other reason than there's a lot more information on the screen at any given time and it isn't written in code, LOL.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  5. #230

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi All

    I'm a newbie to this list and to RC flight. Total experience only about 20 flights with an Electrafun XP in Australia. The Electrafun is similar to the SkyFly in configuration, but with wire linkages and a 7 cell battery as standard. Have just bought a SkyFly and am looking forward to getting it in the air. But first I have to learn to cope with using a different mode. In Australia, I had the throttle on my right stick with the rudder, elevator on the left. So in this country, the elevator and throttle are reversed. I will practice it on G4 before flying the thing.

    I have some questions regarding general performance of the SkyFly controls. Bear in mind I haven't flown it yet! But I was most unimpressed with the fishing line linkage supplied with the model. It stretched so far over one night that in-trim controls moved right over in the direction pulled by the rubber bands. Yes, I had tightened the adjusters. I replaced the lines with Suffix Performance Braid 30LB line (from Bass) and I can see a big improvement.

    I would like to use the inner holes on the horns to get more responsiveness. But there are some issues with that. A really big negative: it is possible to then get the rudder stuck on hard left by the elevator horn. If this were to happen in flight, you would have to push in down elevator to free the rudder, but it might be hard to figure that out in the few seconds available. It wouldn't seem natural to give down elevator as you corkscrew into the ground! I decided to go for the center holes instead of the inner holes, and this seems to avoid that problem.

    I can see advantages in the line and spring linkages, being lightweight, simple and should remove any slack. I actually like the adjusters as a simple way to fix the trim in the field. But the downside is that the servo is working against a tight rubber band and its perfomance seems marginal. I find that the servo takes a lot longer to center either control surface when pulling against the rubber band than going with it. Is this normal? The controls on the Electrafun snap back into place very rapidly when you let go of a stick. But they're not fighting against springs!

    Another thing I notice is that the controls are quite assymmetrical. The rudder turns much further to the left than to the right, and the elevator goes much further down than up. In both cases, greater travel is in the direction the rubber band is pulling. Again, is this normal? Or am I dealing with a substandard servo setup?

    I would really like to know if this is something I should be pursuing as a warranty job, or if this is normal for the SkyFly. Any help would be very much appreciated.

  6. #231
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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi CJ!

    I swapped the monofilament for a good braided line for the controls throughout I haven't seen any particular difference in performance but it's certainly less stretchy and more durable. I've heard others complain about the adjusters loosening but I haven't had any trouble. I noticed when I replaced the lines that they need to be wound around the adjusters the right way, so they're pulling against the threads rather than with them. That is, the line must be wound round the adjuster so that the tension does not cause the adjuster's screw to loosen. If wound right, the line tension actually tightens the adjuster's screw. Clear as mud?

    I also moved the lines to the innermost holes on the control horns and have been very happy with the change in responsiveness. I have never had the rudder get stuck on anything.

    As for the servos, on mine they seem to centre alright, and I haven't noticed any asymmetry at all. Does moving the rubber bands to the inner notch have any impact? I think you may want to take it back to the hobbyshop and see if any other kits exhibit the same behaviour. Doesn't sound normal to me.

    I hope you enjoy the Sky Fly as much as I do.

    Dave

  7. #232

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    I agree. I haven't noticed any problems with mine, and I moved my lines to the inside holes right after my first flight, and immediately before my second.

    I also replaced my lines with Spider Wire fishing line (zero stretch), and moved my rubber bands to the inside notches on the back side of the control horns so that they were exerting as little pressure as possible. One of these days I hope to rig the thing up with a pull/pull setup and eliminate the rubber bands altogether. I get tired of replacing the rubber bands all the time when they rot off. I honestly haven't flown my Sky Fly in a good while. I think it's about time to get it back out and complete the mods I've been planning. That way I can get busy teaching my kids to fly the thing. The easy route would be to convert the thing to standard radio gear, but I never do anything the easy way, LOL. That and for whatever reason unbeknownst to all among the sane, I want to keep the thing looking as stock as possible. Don't ask me why.

    Any luck on your radio issues lambodave? I'm sorry I haven't came up with a solution for you, but I'm totally stumped. You might try posting a question in the DX6 forum. I know I've gotten answers there before.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  8. #233

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Great thread and great plane for what it is. I purchased the skyfly over the hobbyzone challenger and similar planes due to the better reviews and tri landing gear. I think the tri makes takeoffs and landings smoother and more stable.

    In regard to CJCORBEN's issues, I think if you are extremely exacting you might see more of a throw one way or the other on the rudder or the elevator, but based on my adjustments they are minor and haven't noticeably affected flight control response. In you notice the throw difference in the air then, YES, you should perhaps get another. Between myself and my neighbor, we have 5 of the skyflys. Each performs and is adjusted as well as the others. Quality control at the factory appears to be pretty good.

    Here is a flight video of one of my skyflys with an onboard cam.
    You can see it here. Better quality, but slower.
    http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/VSMPCNPPX56PC3VH
    Or you can peg it at youtube.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dbQXqKWFns

    And here is my el wire / glowire setup on my other. I should have used a tripod to stabilize the photos, but you get the idea. The glowire has a constant on and flash mode. I can't wait for the wind to die down so I can her in the air and really see how much difference the glowire makes for evening flights.



  9. #234

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    I'm looking to give my Fly a little more power to ascend better w/o spending a lot. I'd like to use a Graupner 480 "speed" motor, which is 7.2V so I don't have to change any of the stock electronics. Anybody else use this motor or any other low-cost brushed motors they could recommend?

  10. #235

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    A 480 would probably add more weight than power, and it's probably also wound for higher voltage meaning that you'd likely LOSE power rather than gain. I'd suggest a Multiplex Permax 400 myself, just be sure you get one that's rated at 6 volt, not the 7.2 volt model which will probably also be less powerful than the stock motor.

    Another one you might try is a Zagi 400 from Trick RC. Zagi.com on the WWW. It's basically just the aforementioned Permax 6 volt, only with a precision balanced armature and reversed timing especially for pusher applications. On either motor I'd stay with a 6 inch prop or smaller, and an amp test would be a good idea as well. I know I've used the Permax 400's with an APC 6X4 and they pull about 18 amps on a 3 cell lipo. I have no idea what they'd pull on the 7.2 volt Sky Fly pack, however it would no doubt be lower. I'd stay in the 10 amp range if I were you, and under no circumstances go over 15. A good test would be to use an amp meter and see what your stock electronics are pulling, that way you'd at least have an idea of what the factory ESC can handle. If you stay under, or possibly even just slightly above, that number, you should be OK and not smoke anything. You might even be able to get away with the factory prop, but I'd be sure and do an amp test first.

    Hope it helps.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  11. #236

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi raginredneck93, I had 'some' success with my DX6 mixing of two throttle channels in my skyfly. I haven't been able to get 'exactly' what I want, but it will get me flying. This is what I have - I've got each motor increasing 25% with rudder input (increasing motor on outside of turn). I was unable to reduce the inner motor at the same time. Also - it seems assigning them to swtiches seems to cut one motor completely. I think I'll just reduce mixes down to 5% and fly with rudder and then land and increase until I get it flying the way I like.
    My mixes read A16 = +100% : B21 = +25% / 0% : C26 = 0% / -25%
    These settings probably work for me based on other 'unknown' radio settings - but I think you'll be able to work it out with your P38. How is the build going ?
    I might get to fly this 'twin-engine' skyfly this weekend !!!

  12. #237

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    ORIGINAL: raginredneck93

    A 480 would probably add more weight than power, and it's probably also wound for higher voltage meaning that you'd likely LOSE power rather than gain. I'd suggest a Multiplex Permax 400 myself, just be sure you get one that's rated at 6 volt, not the 7.2 volt model which will probably also be less powerful than the stock motor.

    Another one you might try is a Zagi 400 from Trick RC. Zagi.com on the WWW. It's basically just the aforementioned Permax 6 volt, only with a precision balanced armature and reversed timing especially for pusher applications. On either motor I'd stay with a 6 inch prop or smaller, and an amp test would be a good idea as well. I know I've used the Permax 400's with an APC 6X4 and they pull about 18 amps on a 3 cell lipo. I have no idea what they'd pull on the 7.2 volt Sky Fly pack, however it would no doubt be lower. I'd stay in the 10 amp range if I were you, and under no circumstances go over 15. A good test would be to use an amp meter and see what your stock electronics are pulling, that way you'd at least have an idea of what the factory ESC can handle. If you stay under, or possibly even just slightly above, that number, you should be OK and not smoke anything. You might even be able to get away with the factory prop, but I'd be sure and do an amp test first.

    Hope it helps.
    -Thanks for your technical knowledge! I thought that Graupner motor kinda looked more like a motor for a truck. I'm pretty green on the tech side of these things obviously. That Zagi looks like a great choice & it's dirt cheap too!
    I took an amp draw & the stock motor was drawing about 5 amps at half throttle & then it would continually drop as I went to full throttle.-is this normal?

  13. #238

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Actually Rob, that's NOT normal. [sm=confused_smile.gif] You should be getting max amp draw at full throttle, that one has me puzzled. Is your motor worn out or is it new? Another question would be how much use is on your battery? I'd guess, now this is only a guess as I've never hooked a meter up to my Sky Fly, that it should be pulling 8 to 10 amps wide open. Is the motor winding up like it should or is it just plugging along at half throttle all the time? The only thing I can figure is your battery or motor is worn out, but obviously I don't know. Let me know the state of your battery and motor as far as charge, wear ect., and I'll see if I can find time to charge up a battery and see what mine's pulling. Maybe some of the others on the forum have had a meter on theirs? It'd be interesting to see what they found.

    At any rate, I'd figure the stock esc should be good for 10 amps, but once again it's just a guess. Maybe someone out there has fried one? If so, you'd want to use slightly less amp draw than they did.

    Hey lambodave, sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I actually have the mixes working on my P38, however with my DX7 and I haven't had a chance to try to translate it to my DX6.

    Here's what I wound up with though: First of all, I have the left esc plugged into aux1 or flap channel on my rx, and the right one plugged into throttle. Mix 1 is throttle-flap, rate is +100% up and down, switch is set to ON. Mix 2 is rudder-throttle, rate is +10% in both directions, and I have this mix on my gear switch. This mix gives me the increase and decrease in throttle for the corresponding rudder inputs for the right motor, now you need one to give you the corresponding increase and decrease in throttle on the left motor. This is accomplished by programming a third mix of rudder-flap (remember, flap is actually the left esc), and the rate is -10% in both directions, also set to the gear switch. I also left the travel set to 100% on my flap channel, but I did have it set to 0 and it didn't seem to make a difference. Apparently, on the DX7 at least, the programmed mix overrides the travel setting. With these settings one motor will gradually throttle up, and the other throttle down as I give rudder inputs, provided that the gear switch is turned on. Flip the switch and both motors are synchronized again. I originally set the mix to 25%, but bench tests showed that this was WAY too much differential. I think the thing would've done awesome flat spins, LOL, but that wasn't what I was going for so I reduced it to 10%. Even at 10% the differential on the throttles is quite significant at full rudder input and I may end up reducing them even more after flight testing. I actually doubt that the plane will even need the differential to fly properly, I just wanted to fool with it and see what happened and with the tiny rudders on the P38 I figure it can't hurt for ground handling purposes if nothing else.

    As far as the build is concerned, it should be ready to maiden by this weekend, however the weather isn't looking too favorable. This hasn't been the most difficult build I've ever done by far, but it also has not been the easiest. There's a reason why P38's are seldom modeled, and I think that reason is because there isn't anywhere to put anything. The manual says something like 3 to 4 hours for assembly, I say "Yeah right." It took me 3 to 4 hours just to string all of the Y cables and servo extensions that are needed to get to all the servos that are mounted in remote locations all over the aircraft. I was starting to have nightmares that I was locked in a basement in Langley Virginia wiring surveillance beer coolers for the CIA - I've never seen so much styrofoam and wire all in the same place!

    I'll see about posting some pics if I don't get home from work too late tonight.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  14. #239

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    I just tried another amp draw & this time it steadily rose up to 10 & eventually 11 amps at full throttle. I don't know what I was doing wrong at first?

  15. #240

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    -None of this matters now, as my Skyfly is now decorating the top of a very, very tall tree![:@] The wind picked up a little as I was flying & I got downwind & kept struggling to get her back until I got over the top of the treeline. My plane kept wanting to climb cause the elevator starting twitching & would sometimes hold the elevator up for a few seconds. I just checked the aviation website & winds were at 12mph. I'm a newbie & I made 2 critical mistakes: flying in too much wind & letting the plane get downwind of me. []

  16. #241

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Yep, that those ARE two of the critical mistakes. They don't seem like mistakes when you have the urge to fly though.
    And for some reason, it seems to be windier this year than ever.

    The skyfly does not like a lot of wind, but it flies like a dream in calm conditions.

    Looks like you need to put on your climbing boots.

  17. #242

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    There was a guy at the park before all this happened & he was flying this triangle shaped thing called a "Superfly" which he said could handle windier conditions & was nearly indestructable. After checking out the website, I have to say that this thing is pretty cool! I ain't trying to steal the Skyflys thunder or anything, but this thing could handle the wind, fly slow, fly fast & you could tell that it could really take a beating! It goes together with a hot glue gun & even uses hot glue for the elevon hinges! I'm just trying to figure out where to go from here.

  18. #243

    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Then again, the thing that bothers me about this aircraft, is the fact that it just doesn't look like an aircraft.

  19. #244

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Actually I think the Sky Fly handles wind admirably, you just have to know how to muscle it around a little and use a little common sense as far as when to fly and when not to. I've flown it in winds that keep a lot of my other planes grounded and it did just fine. I've actually flown mine backwards by getting it nosed into a stiff headwind, and hover landings are always fun.

    As for the Superfly, do yourself a favor and check out the Mugi Evo first at mugi.co.uk. I've got a fleet of the things, as do all of my flying buddies. They're built out of Coroplast and are about ten times tougher than anything ever made out of foam. Best of all, they cost about $5.00 to build not counting RC gear of course, and surprisingly they fly awesome. You can build them light and mild for more laid back flying, or go all out with a high Kv heli motor and really rip up the sky. We've caught them on radar at speeds in excess of 100 MPH. That's enough to get back to you in just about any wind you'd be willing to fly in, LOL.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  20. #245

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    OK, so I got some pics of the P38 for anyone that's interested. Not quite done yet, but close. Check out the bundle of wires that goes out of each side of the cockpit pod. Stringing all of those is crazy time consuming! Now I have to figure out how to hide them. Naturally I'll just have to hog out the channel in the underside of the wing until the covers will fit without bulging.

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  21. #246

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi everyone - a first time flyer here. This is a great discussion board, full of very useful information. Thanks to all the veterans for their tips!

    I made a newbie mistake and flew in too windy conditions. I won't do that again!! (Ironically, though, I flew the Skyfly into Canada's National Aviation Museum, so it was almost worth it just to be able to say that.) I'll keep the squished nose for posterity.

    I've had to order a new fuselage and tailboom because I think the tailboom became slightly off-angle in a subsequent crash and therefore the plane always wanted to nose over. I can (hopefully!) easily switch over the ESC and have a new vertical and horizontal stab to mount, too. I'm handy enough so I don't think any of that will be a problem. I'm also going to have to remount the motor. Right now the prop is in the way of the mounting screws that hold the motor assembly in place. Does the nose cap of the prop just pop off? I don't want to force it, but it seems like it might need to be removed in order to slide off the prop. Or does the whole plastic assembly thread onto the motor axle?

    Thanks in advance for any help and cheers,
    phaetn

  22. #247

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi phaetn, the prop doesn't unscrew - It needs some effort and can be seperated from the nose part. From the back-side of the prop, you need to squeeze the two tabs to the center, and then push through center. I only fly 'modified' skyfly's and over the years have bought few and fully strip them down for the 'upgrades'.
    Fully modified Skyfly's are great fun - vertical climbs and long flight times (3-cell lipo - 2200mah). These upgrades do require full strip-out and rebuild. I plan to fly my twin brushless motor Skyfly this weekend, and will upload some photo soon ...

  23. #248

    Join Date
    May 2006
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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hey lambodave, hope that maiden flight works out well for you! Did you get the radio working the way you wanted to? Hopefully the settings I gave you helped, but I still haven't had time to try it on the DX6 myself. Might maiden the P38 this weekend, as well as my rebuilt J3 Cub, provided the wind isn't too ridiculous. Forecasts aren't looking too favorable though. [&o]

    I've never went through all that to remove the Sky Fly prop, I've actually only removed mine once, but I just got ahold of it and gave it a firm tug. Not violent, don't get too western with it or anything, just firm steady pressure and it should come right off. It's a push on design so I see no reason to remove the spinner section first. I can't quite bring myself to buy a brand new Sky Fly and hack it up, I can get far more capable planes for the same money, but I keep hoping that someone at the field will sell me a wrecked one dirt cheap or something so I can mod it out. I've never priced it out to see what it would cost to buy just the pieces I need, fuselage, wing, tail assembly, landing gear, ect., but I imagine it would be almost the price of a new plane. I have a bucket of cheap brushless motors that I bought off of Ebay, Tower Pro 2408-21's, that I use on my Mugi Evos. I know for a fact that one of those would have all the power a Sky Fly would ever need and then some especially if I used the same 3 cell lipos that I use in my Mugis. I'd just like to see the looks on my flying buddies' faces when it shot down the runway and took off vertical, LOL.
    Does anybody BUILD airplanes anymore?

  24. #249

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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Hi raginredneck93 - I don't think of 'hacking-up' a skyfly, it's more just upgrading it. All my skyflys could be put back to original condition (except for a few hole where servos were pretruding underneath.
    You can pick-up new skyflys for $40US (Dents & Scratches) department on Towerhobbies.com (some simply used, but nothing broken). I checked the other day and they had some for $40Us. I am a TowerHobbies Member, and could buy it, and have it sent to you (You paypal me directly). Let me know if you want one ... Tonight, I am just installing the landing gear and getting CG correct.

  25. #250
    huttcraft's Avatar
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    RE: Flyzone Sky Fly

    Lambodave can't wait for pictures of your maiden on the SkyFly dually!

    And Phaetn, let us know how you make out with the overhaul. Sounds like you're practically starting from scratch. Best of luck.

    Dave


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