grubbyjeans

Ok, guys, I like the ladies as much as anyone, but let's not allow this to degenerate to a semi-pornographic thread. I've seen it on other forums and don't want to have it happen here. This is SERIOUSLY off topic

kurt4

Mounting Brushless... need help

Picked up a Tower Pro 2409-18 (1000 kv) and an esc but need some advice on installing it. Can it be mounted to a piece of plastic or wood right up against the firewall? Or do I need to build it out with spacers or something to make it more like the original geared setup where it further out? Do i need to somehow reproduce that down and right angle?

nikg

Agreed. I like the curves as much as the next guy, but there are plenty of other web pages for that. This does not mean that I am against using one of the lovely females instead of that kid. Sorry, but I hope he is a marketing person's son because if they intentionally used him otherwise it was not a good move.

King Some of the foreign market SC's come only with a car charger and not a wall charger. I don't know if that makes any difference to you, but thought I might give you a heads up.

downunderdog

I mounted the same motor (Towerpro 2409-18), and I think you do need to space it out from the firewall some... I know that Grubbyjeans and glue it again ben both have posted good designs for how they mounted brushless outrunners, but here's how I did mine (copied from a post that I wrote on 22 September):

On mine, I used the stock plastic gearbox housing... I used a dremel tool to cut/grind off all of the excess part of the housing (the part that the shaft runs through) so it was the right outline, but only about 1/2 inch thick (from firewall to forward edge of it). I then cut out a piece of thin sheet metal to be large enough to so all 4 corner screws of the housing would go through the corners of the sheet metal. I drilled 3 additional holes in the sheet metal to mount my motor to it, then I ground out parts of the front of the plastic gearbox housing so the motor screws wouldn't interfere with it, and the sheet metal could be pulled up flush to the front of the plastic gearbox part with the four screws that hold the gearbox into the firewall. Down/right thrust is built in to that part of the gearbox housing. If additional is needed (I didn't add any), a couple of washers could be put in the upper left corner (and maybe 1 each in the upper right and lower left corners). It was more wasteful than grubby's "built from scratch" mount, but it was easy.

kurt4

Ok, I think I get it. So you just used the gearbox as a spacer but using it actually gives you the stock right/down angle. I can see it would be a good bit of dremel work to clean that up. I'll try to search out the other ones you mentioned also.
BTW, what size prop can I use with that? It came with 9x6 slow fly... newbie here so dont mind staying on the slow side abit.

Talent5

Grubby & Nikg,

I've been here just as long as you and to point out nothing degrading to Semi-pornographic level was talked about or shown here (that was a costume from G4 host who is very into video games). The question and points made was about how bad marketing can be. And as visual consumers who purchase items with the enhancement of nice face behind the product. If you don't believe me check out you Fly RC, Model Aviation or any other rc periodical and you'll see page after page of 33% with a lady holding it. So in closing, we were still quite on topic with a good joke.

maverickma

....This thread just made me buy 200 SuperCubs. What just happened?

gws_003

How many of you get a chance to fly in the snow? That time is coming for us in the midwest and northest, and skis on the SC are a blast these are cheap,just gotta be careful,they break easy in the cold.. http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...161.5192.0.0.0

Mr. Mugen

They are tough as nails if you first tape them up with packing tape. If they do crack it is all contained. Been using same set now for over 2 years. The tape also helps it slide better....almost too good. It needs a drag brake or something.

Kevin

king21200

now on topic,
i had a helicoper flew it 3 time 3rd time it span up side down and... [&o] it have went head first i called it suicide...
i think it was a gust of wind..
will the HZ SC stand against the string winds?

downunderdog

I don't exactly remember which prop I used... I bought a couple in the same order, but I think that the 9x6 was the first I tried. I had a bit of an issue with the motor on the first flight (be sure to tighten the set screws and locktite them, as one of mine backed out and the stator/windings spun during the flight and caused one of the leads to contact the spinning bell part, which shorted the lead) so I haven't flown it again since - I'm currently waiting on an order from Hobby City with both a replacement identical motor (I bought some spare shafts, so I want to have something to use them in) and a turnigy plush 25A ESC, in case my short burned out the original ESC. The reason that the order is held up is that I also ordered an eagletree datalogger so I can see what the current/power is doing with different props, so I'll report back once I know. It will be a while, though, as I have several things in the order which are still shown as "backordered". Ordering things which are not in stock is the best way for me to reign in my spending on this hobby and budget myself... I don't start the next order until this one comes in, so the more that I get that is back ordered the longer it is between orders and the less I spend.

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

My apologies to anyone who was offended.
But, I wasn't really off topic, I just said that I'd rather have Megan Fox posing with the new Mini Super Cub, instead of this guy. " king21200 " complained that this kid was just outright ugly, and shouldnt be marketed to sell the new mini super cub, so I made a better suggestion.

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone know how to tumble with the cub or the T-28 trojan? I'm getting bored with my old tricks and I dont have a sim.

rakiddy

King,
To start off with the plane I was flying at the time had an 11.1v 2200mAh battery and 11x7 prop. I wanted to make my son's 6th birthday a memorable one. So, I modified my aerial drop module so that it would hold many more water balloons. I put almost 2 pounds of water balloons in the basket. I then balanced the plane by shifting the water balloons around inside the basket. My son & his friends were playing tag out back. I went out front the house and used our street as a runway. I threw 100% power to the SC. The SC took about 1/2 block to get up enough speed to slowly gaining altiltude. I circled it over the neighbor's houses several times trying to get up enough altitude to clear the trees out front of my house. I then flew it over the trees and over my back yard where the kids were. I then did a dive bomb attack on them dropping water balloons from about 50 ft up. The kids all loved it and still talk about the plane that dropped bombs at my son's birthday. So, to answer your question, I know that with an 11.1V lipo and 11x7 prop you can carry two pounds - barely.

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

Visit http://www.hobby-lobby.com/atricks.htm, on the bottom of the page, pretty neat mod, just hook up the servo.

In terms of weight, I have no idea, but this mod looks neat.

king21200

thanks for the help everyone

Mr. Mugen

No need to buy that thing man. Just make one out of a piece of balsa. Check mine out. Weigh's a mere 10 grams.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3O4D-z7396c


I have posted the whole set up here... http://supercubclub.proboards78.com/...lay&thread=875

It works flawlessly and has for a year or so now. One tiny servo inside is all you need. The rest is there already. Even the door can be made from foam. I opted for balsa since I had a pile of it. I drop all kinds of things out of it. At night I drop lighted dudes with chutes so we can find them when the touch down.

Kevin

RichT

Aileron Hinge-point - Top, Middle or Bottom ?

I'm just starting to modify a new wing to add ailerons.

I have flattened out the diahedral (by cutting 3/4 of the way through each side of the middle flat area, flatten and glue to fill the gaps, I'll reinforce with tape and still use wing struts (repositioned) - seemed like less hassle than the trench, CF tube method)

Next step is to cut the ailelons. After reading lots, I will be cutting 2"x 15" or 16", right to the tip.

I know I need to bevel the leading edge of the ailelon to allow it to move. My question is where to place the hinge point ? I've seen examples of all three approches (top middle and bottom).

Middle seems to be the most popular but that seems to me to disrupt airflow at both the top and bottom surfaces of the wing.

Top seems to have the advantage of keeping the airflow over the wing smooth and allowing maximum flex upwards (differential ?).

Bottom allows the airflow under the wing to remain smooth. Does the wing 'sit' on a cushon of air ?

Is one aerodynamically superior to the others ? Any advice, thoughts or recommendations would be great. I leaning to the Top hinge location. Although middle would probably be easier to install.

If I go Top, I'll probably use tape hinges and if Middle, I'll use CA hinges...

Thanks.

amc72

My Feedback: (2)

I'll be interested in the comments on this one. I cut the ailerons out the other night. The beveling didn't go so well. Any suggestions?

I figure I have a couple of options

1 Sand some off to make a 45, but this will reduce the bottom side?
2 Use some balsa stock to replace the foam.
3 Round it and go or round and put in a hing?

Thanks

downunderdog

I hinged mine on top with hinge tape (medical tape - like 3M Blenderm only a different brand).

One thing to consider when bevelling - if you bevel the aileron, then the control horn can't sit at the leading edge of it and you either need to get control horns which can mount aft of the bevel but extend forward to attach to the control rod, or you need to be sure that you've considered this in some other way. If the attach point from the control rod to the control horn on the aileron is a ways back from the hinge point, then it limits the "minimum effective arm" of the control horn... and even if you attach to the innermost hole on the horn you might not get as much travel as you desire (and/or you might get some interference between the control rod and the fixed trailing edge area of the wing at full up aileron). To address this, what I did was bevel both the wing and the aileron some, but then in the area where I installed the control horn I didn't bevel the aileron at all - I just cut out a deeper "notch bevel" in the wing at that area to let the "unnotched" area of the aileron nest into it. That allowed me to install the control horn at the leading edge of the aileron, giving me maximum flexibility with regard to the shortest position on the control horn. Of course, I could have gotten some control horns that are designed to attach further back on the aileron and then extend forward to the attach point, but I would have had to order them.

Just something to consider before you let loose with the knife - where you will be attaching the control horn.

Shortbuss

Thanks dude!! Just ordered them!

amc72

My Feedback: (2)

Well the ailerons are cut and I have lots of movement with a top hinge.

The problem is mocking up the servo it look l don't have the movement I was looking for. Ya I know think first then cut. Anyway any suggestions. Longer horn horn extending past the bevel?

Thanks for the help

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone know how to tumble with the cub or the T-28 trojan? I'm getting bored with my old tricks and I dont have a sim.

eghershey

Have done it on occasion.....but not on purpose[]

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

Can everyone please try to itemize me a order from Hobbycity.com, so that I can easily convert my Super Cub to brushless.

I will need, Brushless Motor, ESC, and Servos. I plan on buying a used 72mhz Parkzone system on ebay.

Also, I want to use the aluminum mount that is sold on ebay to utilize a brushless motor, although I think that mount is for a Park 480.

PLEEEEEEEAAAASEEE!!!!