brrzee

I am thinking of trying the second mode on the PZ j-3 cub, but the instruction booklet doesn't really give the best detail as to which jumper to remove...it is just a black blob in the manual. There are 3 jumpers if I am looking in the correct area, they are covered by tape but I am not sure which one to remove. If anyone has done this PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

Thanks

adribinsky

you can get the manual in PDF format here:

http://www.hobbyzone.com/documents/PKZ1100-manual.pdf

You can zoom in on the pictures and see them in good detail. It looks like there are two jumpers and you need to remove the one near the edge of the board. I have not done it yet myself.
Good luck.

brrzee

Thank you, I will check the link out for sure.

Leo L

Yes, you need to remove the jumper that is closer to the edge. You will find that the Cub doesn't fly drastically different, but you can do better stunts and fly inverted, which you cann't do with the jumper.

brrzee

There is one by itself and then one on top of another one beside it near the edge. I removed the top one closest to the edge and tried a flight, the plane seemed to turn a little more sharply so I am thinking that must be the right one. I noticed on the linkage inside the plane one is fully extended to the last hole while the other one is set on the second last. Should I extend the linkage to the last hole or leave it how it is? My linkages on the outside of the plane are fully extended to the last hole. As for the jumper, I am sorry to keep this topic going, but it is hard to tell in the manual if you are suppost to remove both jumpers near the edge or just the top one. As far as inverted flights, how the heck are you doing that Leo L with the stock motor. I can barely get the plane to do a loop...so tips would be appreciated!!!!

Leo L

To verify that you removed the correct jumper, when the transmitter is turned on and the battery is connected to the plane, move the control stick to the left or to the right: only the rudder should move, the elevator should not move.

Flying the Cub inverted is very challenging. Unless you have gone to a brushless motor you will loose altitude no matter what you do, so you need to start with the plane as high as you can comfortably get it (a minimum of 150ft.) With the plane flying level give it full throttle, put it into a full dive, then give it full up elevator. Just as the plane is about to reach the very top of the loop, move the control stick from full up elevator to full down. The plane will "fly" inverted, but will loose altitude because the motor doesn't have enough thrust to keep it flying level in this orientation. To come out of the inverted flight, you will need to complete the loop, so don't let the plane get too close to the ground before you flip it. On my second attempt I was so fascinated with it flying upside down that I almost waited too long. I swung the control stick to full up and the plane looped to normal flying orientation, missing the ground by less than 2 ft.

To properly get into the inverted mode, the plane needs to perform a clean vertical loop. If the plane is tilting to one side, it will not go into inverted flight but will do a semi-barrel roll. If your first loop is not good, let the plane finish the loop and go into a second loop, correcting its path to make the loop vertical.

Once you have the plane inverted, steering it becomes a challenge. Picture the plane flying toward you inverted. If you give it left rudder, you would expect the plane to turn toward its upside down left, which is also toward your left (control reversal now occurs when the plane is flying away from you, not toward you). However, because of the diehedral of the wing, when you give left rudder, the right wing moves forward and the air forces the right wing to the plane's up, which in inverted flight causes the right wing to move toward the ground, which makes the plane try to bank in the opposite direction of the rudder input. The only way that I have been able to make turns while flying the Cub inverted is to make flat turns. Give the rudder a little "blip" in the direction that you want to turn, then immediately return the rudder to neutral. Again give another little blip. The turn becomes a series of little jerky movements.

If you switch from the stock prop to the high pitch prop, you will have a better shot at flying inverted. Going to the Venom motor upgrade actually allows you to fly inverted for up to a minute. I fly at a field that is about 400ftx400ft, surrounded by forested parkland on three sides. My best inverted flight to date has been one complete lap of the field's perimeter.

brrzee

THX Leo L, I did what you said and the elevator seemed not to move at all. As far as the control arm hook ups inside the plane. I was wondering why the one to the rudder is set to the very last hole, while the one to the rudder is on the second or it could be vice versa I will have to check but I know for sure one is not fully extended. Should I adjust that as well? The ones on the outside I have extended to the very last hole.

Keep the inputs coming

THX

Leo L

I wouldn't change the position of the control rods at the servos. My Cub and Decathlon both have the rods positioned the same as you describe. I guess that PZ determined that this gives the best response without making one of the controls more "touchy" than the other.