pnjkeith

Extreme tape? Where do you get the tape your talking about in your threads? Also are you using regular props or pusher props. New to this styker hop ups..

critterhunter

Extreme strapping tape can be found at Staples, Office Max, or other office supply stores. It features strands that go in both directions, unlike regular strapping tape which only has them going one way. Pusher props are fairly hard to find so most of us use regular props. You just hitch up the three motor wires so the motor runs the proper direction (swap any two until you get it right). The prop should always be mounted so the size numbers on it face the front of the plane, regardless of it being a pusher or a front prop plane.

pnjkeith

Thanks for the info. I have the tape already, just wasnt sure what kind it was. Thanks for the prop info, i remember seeing it in your prior post. Neat thread. You have provided a great service.

pnjkeith

One more thought, does the paint stick to the tape pretty well? Have you ever used Zagi tape?

tims880

Ha funny you should mention Zagi tape. I am sick of paint it always flakes off. So I got some red zagi tape and put stripes on the top of the fuse. I like it so much, I am going to get some black to cover the bottom. No more paint for me!
Hagar a watt meter is next on my purchase list. It was very obvious that 6.5x6.5 is way faster than anything else. Oh I got the apc 6.5x6.5 at tower hobbies.

pnjkeith

How about the new Gorilla tape? instead of the extreme tape. I picked up both today at home depot. It seems kinda heavy though. But it is already black.

tam popo

Hi, guys, just finishing my 3rd Stryker as per Lord Critts tips. This is now one stiff bird and the tape is part of it. Needed on leading edge and motor mount area plus covering carbon rod areas. I used my Zagi tape but as usual sprayed a thin coating of 3M77 stuff - a lot better to get rid of "crinkles" in tape. Just a point nobody I think has mentioned - if I compare my original stock Stryker to new build ones you can see a "twist" in the aerofoil shape on stock one (maybe cause a loss of airflow and lift of stock wing) - just a thought! Something else I've done that I've not seen mentioned - I removed the foam protrusions that hold fins on (either side of motor mount) to allow the use of bigger props if needed. Home built cut-down balsa fins made and slightly glued into channels. Just an idea

tam popo

Hi, guys, just finishing my 3rd Stryker as per Lord Critts tips. This is now one stiff bird and the tape is part of it. Needed on leading edge and motor mount area plus covering carbon rod areas. I used my Zagi tape but as usual sprayed a thin coating of 3M77 stuff - a lot better to get rid of "crinkles" in tape. Just a point nobody I think has mentioned - if I compare my original stock Stryker to new build ones you can see a "twist" in the aerofoil shape on stock one (maybe cause a loss of airflow and lift of stock wing) - just a thought! Something else I've done that I've not seen mentioned - I removed the foam protrusions that hold fins on (either side of motor mount) to allow the use of bigger props if needed. Home built cut-down balsa fins made and slightly glued into channels. Just an idea

critterhunter

Good tips and glad you found the tips useful. A friend has cut down a few Stryker bodies so much that they don't even resemble a Stryker, more like a Zagi wing (but a lot less expensive!). He glues his verticle fins to the outter tips of the wings and so he can also go smaller for less drag because (if I'm thinking right) the fins moved further out have more leverage on the wing and thus can be smaller in size. Somebody (?) emailed me with a few more good tips, such as using a rocket cone in place of the PVC tube/spinner cone I use on my mounts. Remember too that the nose can be shaped to a much more streamlined design. If you want a nose that will re-bounce back to shape try those pool noodles at Walmart. All good tips.

critterhunter

Here's a great review of the 3500 k/v (3200 ?) motor I was talking about a few months back from Don's RC.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...42#post7536847

critterhunter

A friend and I got my Stryker air worthy again. Think I mentioned as random servo problem that has plagued this bird since last fall. I swapped out the RX to see if that would correct the servo problem. Still no dice. I then noticed the "bad" servo's compartment had significant play in it, which probably explains why several servos seemed to have bad pots. Still, it ended up being a bad pot in the current servo and a brand new one, along with some hot glue, I think finally took care of this bug I've been tracking down for a while.

Got two or three good flights out of the Stryker until a a low WOT loop was too low for low rates. I had just lowered the elevator rates and I guess I went a little too low. Plane survived fairly well and just mainly needs the nose-to-tail carbon tube re-glued where it came loose up front. Motor mount, servos, etc are fine. This build (the one that was made in this thread's build guide) has had a very hard life, yet despite four or five nose in hits at full speed she just refuses to die. If I had originaly used Gorilla glue for the tubes instead of Epoxy she would have held up even better in these wrecks, and I'm quite impressed with how she's done as is.

By the way, I'm finding now that I prefer low and high rates in the 40 and 55 range or so for the aileron and elevator with the 12T and stock elevons as it's built in this thread, with aileron rates about 5 to 10% higher than the elevator setting. In other words, like 40 for elevator on low, 45 for the aileron, and 45 for the elevator on high, 55 for the aileron. I'm also using no expotential. Too high of an elevator rate finds the elevons will make a "flutter" sound and the plane can get twitchy when pulling out of a high speed dive, but remember that the 27C elevons are this build are pretty banged up by now, along with a few loose hinges...All thanks to it's crash and burn life. Also remember that I've got my verticle fins cut down pretty low (lower than I originaly showed in the build log). She's getting closer to a total re-build with a new body and will do the photo/build log thing on that on here, along with a few new mod tricks. Going to shoot for 20 to 21 ounce flight weight.

critterhunter

United Hobby now carries the KA450H I've been talking about for like $15. They also carry a smaller/light version for lighter builds for $13. Unless you are buying more than this from them I'd still get the motor from Dons RC because shipping will make it a wash price wise, and Don's a good guy.

By the way, Don is now carrying some very cheap lipos. A friend who uses the Hextronicks packs and these new ones from Don likes them more in certain respects (lighter/more compact), but they are only rated 15C versus the 20C for the Hextronicks. While on there take a look at his Sword and Pentium ESCs. I like them much better than Tower Pros. Check them out on www.DonsRC.com

And no, I don't get paid for the endorsement. He's just a local flyer and a decent guy to deal with.

critterhunter

Picked up a nose cone for a rocket today ($1.50) that is very light compared to the PVC tube I was using in the stock motor mount. It also features a more sharp nose and show cut down on wind resistance even more. Saving it for the up coming build of another 12T Stryker. Am going to try digging up more 12T motor info on an older Way Past The Limits thread to post.

critterhunter

Having heard different answers as to whether a HS81MG (Metal Gear) gear sets will install into a normal HS81 that had nylon gears, I finally got around to checking things out for myself. A quick web search has found that the HS81MG gears will work in a standard HS81 non-MG servo. So, keep this in mind if you find that you are stripping the nylon gears more than you'd like. I've not had a problem with them stripping on my 12T Stryker unless it's involved in a bad crash. Still, I think in the future as any of my nylon gear HS81s on various builds strip I'll just replace them with the metal ones. That'll have to wait until I use up a pile of nylon gears I have laying around. I've always saved the good gears out of a servo and pitched the stripped one. Some believe it isn't a good idea to use old gears over again but I've not run into problems with that. Just make sure you look at them closely for any missing or really worn teeth.

I've also been going through a pile of HS81s I had laying and fixing various problems with them for backups. A few have dirty pots that were causing a random neutral point, while others would chatter or make noise. Most of the time the easy cure for this is to clean the pot. Remove the bottom of the servo case and the gears. Flip out the mini circuit board and you'll see the motor (has to wires going to it) and the pot (has three). Remove the screw holding the pot in. Push on the pot shaft from the other side and the pot will come up and out of the servo case. Mark both sides of the pot to get an idea of where things should line up. Bend back the middle clip that is around the pot shaft (it has the middle wire going to it) and then pull the shaft out from the other side. Clean the metal "feeler" contacts with rubbing alc. or brake cleaner, as well as the other surface that it contacts. I also like to bend the feeler out just a hair to insure it's making good contact with the other surface. Put the servo back together and check it for proper function.

critterhunter

After going through piles of used servos to see what needs fix'n, I figured I'd write a little Servo Survival Guide for anybody new to servo repair like I was and am. Most of this info is based on the Hitec HS81 servos, but for the most part when you've seen one servo you've seen them all. You'll also find a few Tower Pro SG90 (Also called HXT900...a Hitec HS55 clone) tips as well. By the way, this servo is a great little servo for the price (around $4). I've read nothing but good things about it, some people even liking it more than the HS55. It is said the United Hobbies HXT900 version is of better quality, though I haven't compared it to the SG90 to see. For the most part, I use Hitec HS81 servos in my larger builds or ones with more speed and/or larger control surfaces, while the HS55 or SG90 is what I use in slower, smaller, or lighter builds. These are probably the two most popular servos in the Park Flyer universe.

WARNING: I'm no expert. Following my advice could destroy your servo or damage some other component. Use at your own risk and don't cry to me if you burn the house down or lose a finger. Always remember to unplug the battery that is powering the RX, unplug the servo, and turn off the radio before doing any work on the servo.

PRE-TESTING SET-UP: You want to check that your trims and sub-trims are at neutral, the radio is set up for full throws and full rates (125% on JR radios). This will insure that the servo is cycling through it's full gear travel and that any bad pots or stripped gears will show themselves under these conditions.

TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE:

Step 1: Plug the servo into an RX, turn on your TX, and hitch the battery up to the speed control or whatever you are powering the RX with.

Step 2: Move the stick on the TX fully in each direction to see if the servo is moving like it should.

Step 3: If you don't hear any gears stripping and the servo is moving properly and smoothly, grab the servo arm lightly but firmly and put some resistance on it in both directions as you move the TX stick fully in both directions. Many times a stripped gear won't show it's self until a load is put on it or the servo is moved completely in one direction. If any gears are stripped move on to REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS.

Step 4: Set the servo onto a table and look down through the top hole on the horn. Mark the table directly below it so that you can see the mark through the hole's line of sight. Now quickly move the TX stick all the way one direction and release the stick. The horn's hole should return to the marked spot. Move the stick quickly in the other direction all the way and once again release the stick. Repeat this process several times to confirm the horn (which shouldn't be held or touching anything) always returns to the same neutral point. If it doesn't then the POT is more than likely dirty. Move on to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE TWO.

Step 5: Slowly move the stick from neutral all the way to full throw in one direction and watch the control horn on the servo. It should smoothly and slowly move in that direction with no jumping or jitters. Slowly return the TX stick to neutral and check to see if the horn (again, shouldn't be touching anything) is still returning to neutral properly. Repeat the test in the other direction. If the servo doesn't work smoothly or return to neutral this more than likely is a dirty POT. Move on to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE TWO.

Step 6: Slowly move the servo all the way in both directions with the TX stick and make sure it looks like the servo is traveling an equal distance from neutral both ways. If it isn't then make sure your throws, sub trims, and trims on the radio are set right. This condition is more than likely a bad or dirty POT but can be a stripped gear. Go down to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE TWO.

Step 7: Hold the servo in your hand (without touching the control horn) and move the TX stick around, holding it still in random and various positions for a few seconds at a time. Also try holding it still at full throws in both directions. The servo shouldn't buzz, vibrate, or make noise in these various spots when the stick is being held still. If it does then more than likely the POT is dirty. Move on to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE TWO.

Step 8: If the servo buzzes, doesn't always move, or especially gets hot then this could indicate a seized motor rather than a dirty pot. Jump down to FIXING A TIGHT OR FROZEN MOTOR.

REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS:

Gear sets are fairly cheap at around $3 to $5 for nylon sets. Still, if you have an HS81 and want to install metal gears in it to prevent further stripping, pick up a pack of HS81MG gears. You can also save money by saving all the good gears out of a servo that has stripped. Look at them under a magnifying glass. More often than not you'll find that the top or second from the top gear is the one that has went bad. Throw the good ones in a bag and hold onto them for replacing a bad gear in the future.

While HS81MG servos have a notched shaft that the top gear must mate to properly, some servos such as the SG90 Tower Pros have a cogged top that the top gear can fit onto in various positions. If this gear is stripped you can break away the two stop tabs on it's bottom and position the gear so that the stripped portion is pointing directly the other direction from the other gears. When the servo is moved to full throws chances are this bad portion of the gear will not engage the others. The same can be said for the other gears on both servo types, but only putting it back together and checking movement is going to tell you if it's going to be OK. This should only be done in a pinch when no other replacement gears are present, but involves high risk of having the servo fail so be aware.

Before taking the servo apart there is one last thing to check to make sure it is really stripped. Often the control horn is slipping on the top gear due to the horn being bad or it being the wrong horn. Horns are usualy very specific to the model and brand of servo they are used for, featuring different teeth patterns than others. Try replacing the horn with one that you know is meant for that servo and tighten the screw holding it snug.

UNPLUG THE BATTERY FROM THE RX AND UNPLUG SERVO! Turn off radio.

Once you replace the gears you should still go back to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE and do all the steps again to look for further servo problems.

Step 1: Remove the screw holding the servo horn and the horn it's self. Always hold the servo horn and apply equal force in the other direction as you tighten or loosen this screw to avoid putting pressure on the gears inside. Next, remove the four screws on the bottom of the servo. It's better to loosen (or tighten) these four screws in a zig-zag fashion, much like tightening lugnuts on a car. This helps to insure that the servo case is being closed (or opened) with equal pressure. The bottom and top cover plates should now easily pop off. Be careful that the top cover doesn't come off with the gears and/or a metal rod with it. You want them to stay in place to help guide gear placement.

Step 2: Pull the gears off one at a time from top to bottom and place them on a table, staggered from top to bottom and left to right a few inches from each other to indicate the sequence and direction they were on the servo. Make sure the middle metal pin stays in place and you don't loose it.

The metal gear on top of the servo is the motor's output shaft. If you spin it with your finger you'll find it to be very loose. Don't let this make you think the metal gear is loose. It's just very easy to spin this tiny motor. The middle metal pin isn't attached to anything inside the servo, it just seats into a hole to hold it. On the inside of the top cover is also a hole for it to seat in. Nine times out of ten if the servo doesn't want to snap back together the pin isn't fitting into this hole for some reason. The other, slightly larger, metal shaft on top of the servo is the POT shaft. When the motor moves it this POT also moves, and via feedback it tells the servo what it's position is. Notice a flat spot on top of this shaft. This is where the top gear that the control horn screws into has to seat properly on in order for that gear to not slip on the shaft. If you haven't noticed, all the other gears are not secured to the two metal shafts in any fashion. They simply spin on the shafts when moved.

Step 3: Take your new gear set and install the gears, using the old ones position on the table as your guide, starting from bottom to top. When you get to the top gear make sure it lines up with the flat spot on the POT shaft and press it down firmly. There shouldn't be any large gap between this gear and the next one down or you've probably not seated it properly. Grease the servo gears with the right greese if you feel the need to do so.

Step 4: Place the top cover back onto the servo and make sure it is completely flat with the servo case. If it isn't then more than likely the top middle pin's top portion isn't seating into the top hole, or the top gear isn't installed properly (it can bump the top of the cover if it isn't sitting right. Normaly the "fat" portion of this gear will be pointing towards the other gears.

Step 5: Place the bottom cover back onto the servo and re-install the four screws. Do not overtighten the screws or they will break that bottom cover's four mounting holes. Again, tighten them in a zig-zag fashion (top left, then bottom right, then top right, then bottom left). If one or two of the bottom plate's mounting holes are broke still use all your screws. These will hold the top cover on, which is where things need to be snug to avoid gear play and stripping. You can also get by with only having two or three screws available to use so long as the top cover is tight. If not, apply a little CA around it's mounting surface to keep the top cover snug. Replace the servo horn and it's screw. Again, apply force in the other direction on the horn to the screw's direction as it is being tightened to avoid stress being put on the servo gears.

Step 6: Go Back To TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE and start at the beginning of the test steps again.

TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE TWO:

Before going through the trouble of cleaning the POT there are still a few possible easy fixes to the problem.

Before following any of the steps below UNPLUG THE BATTERY TO THE RX, unplug the servo, and turn off radio.

If you find that any of the below checks fix the problem you should still go back to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE and go through all the steps again to look for further problems that might be present.

On one SG90 servo I thought I had a dirty POT on it since the unit wouldn't move fully in one direction compared to the other and would "hum" as is tried to reach it. It turned out that there was a tooth missing on one of the gears very near full throws and the servo couldn't advance the last bit of travel it needed. It wasn't producing any stripped gear noises so be aware to check for bad gears when cleaning the POT.

Step 1: First, clean the contacts on the RX and servo plug to insure they aren't dirty and causing a random short. You might also try another port (IE: switch from elevator to rudder on the RX) to insure that it isn't that RX port that is causing the problem. This might also indicate a bad TX POT (read below).

Step 2: If the problem is still present, next try another RX with the servo to rule that component out. Also try a different port on the RX (IE: Rudder port instead of Aileron). If this fixes the problem then it suggests the POT controlling the Aileron on your TX is dirty or bad and not the servo's POT.

Step 3: If the problem is still happening, make sure the battery pack you are powering the servos with is fully charged. A low voltage level could be causing the servo to act up.

Step 4: If the problem is still yet present, make sure the TX battery is fully charged, the antenna is fully extended, and that you aren't experiencing any interference. If the problem still persists then move on to CLEANING THE POT.

CLEANING THE POT:

Step 1: Follow all the above REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS steps for taking the servo apart, and don't forget to UNGPLUG THE RX FROM THE BATTERY, unplug the servo, and turn off the radio.

Step 2: Flip out the little circuit board on the bottom of the servo and look inside. There are two components inside. One is the motor (it has two wires going to it). The other is the POT (it has three wires going to it). Notice the location of the three pot wires to indicate how it was sitting. Normaly the three wires are pointing toward the motor side of the servo.

Step 3: Remove the screw that is holding the POT in place. Press on the POT's shaft from the top of the servo and it should slide out towards the bottom of the case. Wiggle the wires a bit to help it come out.

Step 4: Mark the POT top and bottom in various spots to indicate how it lined up if you feel the need to.

Step 5: There is a small "U" shaped clip attached to the middle wire which goes around the base of the POT shaft. Bend this clip's ends back and away from the POT shaft. Pull on the other end of the shaft and the POT should come apart. Notice the position of it's insides as you do this to help you put it back together in roughly the proper spot.

Step 6: Take brake cleaner, alchohol, electrical contact cleaner, or any other product that leaves no residue and place some on a Q-Tip. Scrub lightly the inside of the POT's black area along with the three metal contact points. Also clean the metal "feelers" on the other half of the POT and the metal plates below it. I then like to slightly bend these "feelers" up for better contact with the other surface. Blow on the two parts and inspect them closely for any debri or Q-Tip fuzz.

Step 7: Re-install the two halves back together in the proper orientation and bend the "U" clip back around the bottom of the shaft's groove.

Step 8: Re-insert the POT in the proper position in the servo case and replace the screw. Don't tighten too much.

Step 9: Refer to REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS above for the rest of the steps in replacing the gears and closing up the case.

Step 10: Go back to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE and follow all those steps. If the servo is still responding like a dirty POT then one or two more cleanings may be required, scrubbing a little harder. One HS81 took me two cleanings before it started working properly. You may also have a tight or frozen motor. Refer to FIXING A TIGHT OR FROZEN MOTOR.

FIXING A TIGHT OR FROZEN MOTOR:

Some times the servo won't move or move very well and seems to get very hot. This could indicate the motor is having trouble moving.

STEP 1: Follow all the steps in the REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS section above to take the servo apart and remove the gears.

STEP 2: Take a drop of bushing oil and place it on the motor at it's rear shaft and front shaft.

STEP 3: Plug the servo back into the RX and turn on the TX and RX. The motor will spin all the time, trying to figure out where it's at. Since there are no gears in it to move the POT it will keep spinning. Allow it to run for ten to twenty seconds or so. This may fix the problem.

STEP 4: Follow the above steps under REPLACING STRIPPED GEARS to put the servo back together, then go back to TROUBLESHOOTING STAGE ONE and do all the steps to look for further problems.

FINAL NOTES: If you can't fix the servo after following the above troubleshooting guide then one final last ditch effort is to closely inspect all the servo wires, including the servo lead that goes to the RX. Look for any broken or cut wire, or any loose solder connections to the motor, pot, circuit board, etc. If the servo is still beyond figuring out it's problem then don't pitch it. You can salvage parts of it for other good servos, or combine the parts from two bad ones to build a working servo. IE: The pot may be good on one servo that has a bad motor, while this might be vise versa on another. A little solder work and you can build one good unit out of it. The little metal gear pins always seem to get lost as well, so it's good to have a few spares around. Keep them on a magnet or you're going to loose them. I know from experience...

Hope this helps anybody who was lost like I was...

tam popo

Lord Crit, you just earned Brownie points for all that - you can't put a price on info like that. Everyone who visits these hallowed pages should save this to their faves page and pass the servo gospel to other threads visited. now, where'smy x-mas card list?[8D][X(][X(]Bed!!!

critterhunter

Thanks, just trying to make things simple and detailed. I'm the kind of person who loves details and hates to see "How To" stuff with little or no useful information. Heck, even many RC products bought new don't come with instructions, let alone good ones.

critterhunter

I've updated the above guide with more tips, troubleshooting steps, and information.

critterhunter

Just thought I'd chime in while I was thinking about it and touch on a point about the BP21, 12T, and other Tower Pro motors. After recently watching a friend re-wind a few (and having begun to re-wind a BP21 myself), we have found that the winds of these motors are of very poor quality. The winds can also vary anywhere up to 5 in more or less turns than they are supposed to have from one to the other. Re-winding one of these motors, even at the same amount of turns they are supposed to have, can increase efficiency and performance greatly.

critterhunter

I've got a tip for everybody. (This data is non-Stryker related. Follow how I tape it up in the build steps.) I normaly use clear tape for things like leading/trailing edges of wings, and usually completely cover my tail surfaces as well to help stiffen and protect them. Even though I normaly hinge my control surfaces with Dubro heavy duty hinges (Again, non-Stryker builds), I still clear tape over the control surface for smoother air flow and to help stiffen the hinge. The Dubros seem to help keep the control surface movement more "true" and without slop. I tend to use Extreme strapping tape for the belly of the bird, over my carbon wing channels, and any other area that needs a little extra strength insurance. Both these tapes have worked well for me and, though it's not needed, using 3M Super 77 Spray on the tape really helps it to stick to the body.

Anyway, my long way to a point is this. On my homemade Big'N dual boomer I've tried twice to hold the dehidral in the wing by cleaning the foam and using the 3M spray to put four lengths of Extreme tape (2 on top, 2 on bottom) the entire length of the wing. I kept the wing weighted to hold the dihedral over night, yet the next day when I take the weights off the tape lifts up within an hour or two. I've never had this problem with Extreme tape not sticking well to any foam, even without the 3M spray, and believe the problem is the constant flex of the fiberglass rods trying to straighten out the wing. Even with carbon tubes in a wing I've never had this problem of holding the bend, though to be fair those were not as big as this six footer.

After discussing this with a friend, he told me that he always uses Tyvek tape on foam because it holds better than any other tape he's used. For those who don't know, Tyvek tape is meant for taping seems on insulation such as foam or fiberglass in house construction. So, off to Home Depot for a roll at $12 for 60 yards. Yikes on the price, but 60 yards is a lot. I taped the wing back up with that last night and will see how it does today when I remove the weights. My friend says this stuff will "meld" with the foam within about 6 hours, to the point that it is almost impossible to remove without great effort. Some kind of chemical reaction which probably explains why the stuff is so expensive. No need for the 3M spray on it, either. I can't vouch for his statements on this tape yet, but will let you guys know how well it holds the wing shape in a day or two.

Just thought I'd re-post this for Stryker builders since this stuff might at least be a great replacement for clear tape on your leading edge of the wing and over the servos/wires. I'd still use the Extreme tape over the carbon tube channels, under the motor mount, and etc as pointed out in this build thread. This Tyvek tape is almost like clear tape in texture, probably a little more plastic "film" like in nature, and I can at least tell right away that it grabs the foam better than the clear. I'm hoping it's holding qualities can keep the curve held in my Big'N's 6 foot wing.

critterhunter

The votes are in on the Tyvek tape. I LOVE the stuff over clear tape. Sticks better, easier to apply without wrinkling, about the same weight, etc. Price is high at around $12 but you do get 60 yards, and that's a lot. Look in the foam insulation section of Home Depot or Lowes. I'd still use Extreme for the major strength areas as covered in this thread.

Been doing some surfing on United Hobbies and saw some stuff of interest for cheapies like me. First, for those wanting a cheap computer radio along with RX, servos, speed control YOU CAN'T BEAT THIS PRICE. $59!

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=5310

Some more items of interest...

They are now selling HXT motor kits for custom winding. Haven't looked at them all yet but I'm sure something should prove useful for Stryker fans...

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=5344

Here's the KA450H motor. Although it's about half the price of Donsrc.com, Don has this motor custom wound to a lower K/V (2700, I think) that would prove more well suited for Stryker owners. While a stock Stryker body will work fine with it, shave the sucker down and you'll get even more killer speed. Can't remember if it'll do unlimited V but figure it will, even on my 27 ounce bird. I would use Don's version on a Stryker. The higher United Hobbies k/v version would be better for smaller platforms probably.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=5246

Of course you can't pass up the cheapest lipo prices on the planet. The 3 cell 20C 2200ma packs that many of us Stryker owners use are even lower in price now at $29. Everybody loved these HXT packs last year but over the winter they seemed to have a bad batch with puffing problems. The issue is supposed to be resolved now, and if you do have one puff you simply Email them a picture of it for a replacement without needing to ship them the old one.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=2045

Here's some HS81 equiv. HXT servos that I've heard nothing but good things about. A little slower (I think) than the HS81, but considering you can buy these METAL GEAR servos for the price of a metal gear replacement gear set for a HS81MG, you might as well get these. I'm pretty sure these are the closest match to the HS81 in size and performance, though there might be another servo on there that is closer. Check the community resources forums on there and look for a thread called HS81MG or something similar. Some guy also did some testing of these two servos compared to the HS81. I haven't had steller luck with my HS81 servos. Mainly, I've had dirty or bad pots on like 4 out of 6 of mine. I still like them but it's cheapies for me for now on from UH.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...idProduct=3609

While not really suitable for a Stryker, I must mention these two servos which are great replacements for the HS55 from what I've read. They are the HXT500 and HXT900. The HXT900 is somewhere around an HS55 to HS81 size. I've heard of it being used in place of the HS81 on a Stryker but I wouldn't suggest it. They are good for slower/lighter birds or builds that won't be putting as much stress on the controls like the Stryker does. Note that there are cheaper copies of these servos out there, like the Tower Pro SG90 (I have these and they are good), but the HXT United Hobbies versions are said to have better components. For the price ($3 or so) you can't pass these up. Many people like them better than HS55s.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...?idProduct=663

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...?idProduct=662

If anybody has experience with any other cheap servos on there or other sites that might more closely match HS81s please post it.

Of course I've got to list the cheapest 30 amp speed control on the planet, which works well with motor Stryker motor options. $15. Instructions don't come with them and the proper ones can be hard to find on the net. Other than that I've had no problems with them. If you pay a little more at donsrc.com you'll get a Pentium speed control that has more features, easier programming, smoother throttle response, and all around better quality.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...?idProduct=658

Then there are receivers. I'd highly suggest dual conversion or at least full range ones for the Stryker. I admit to running cheap GWS RXs in mine and never lost control at some VERY far out distances, but this isn't smart on a brushless bird at Stryker speeds. No particular brand, though I hear the Coronas are good and very cheap at around $15 to $24.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...=116&curPage=2

And then there is the motors, of which I'm still sorting them out to produce a comparison chart. But here's the current most popular cheapie for the Stryker, the 2409-12T. I'd also check into the "D" version because I hear it is built better, not to mention looking much better. Haven't heard any cons to it's configuration versus a "T" yet? Same motor specs otherwise.

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITED...4&ParentCat=59

Of course some of these items can be found on other sites and at the same or near price. For instance, I think you can combo a motor and ESC from Balsa Products, aeronauts, RCHotDeals, LazerToys, or others at below what you can get them for on United Hobbies. Best thing to do is check around but for the most part UH has the best prices. Shipping was like $30 if I would have used the default one on my last order, but I dropped it down to the next shipping method and it went down to $12. Even with this shipping I got my items in four days once they were pulled. They used to have very poor picking and shipping times but it appears they've fixed that after they moved to a larger warehouse.

tam popo

Good Morrow, Mr Critter sir!! Just postscript for the tightwads this side of the pond, myself being one of them. The E-Fly TX set you showed isn't the one I have, yours looks more impressive with more features. The one I have has 3 servos, 20A esc and RX. The problem is the RX and TX, they're on 35mhz 75 channel and work fine together (the rx has mini crystal), BUT the Tx won't operate other RX's (eg E-Sky, GWS etc). Don't know why but it must be something to do with frequency/crystals. LHS couldn't find reason so sold sold me another TX that will work the 3 rx's I bought off them - another £17!!! Also the Tower Pro can be sold in pusher as well as tractor mode, mounting can be a problem (great motor). Servo's - I have and use 8 E-Sky cheapo's and never been let down once. Not all of us have Paris Hilton's bank balance but I don't have to work as hard as her (see the vid!!! Retired (55) but rich!![>:]

critterhunter

Thanks for the follow up info. What exactly do you mean about the motors being sold in pusher or tractor configuration? I've mounted the "T" versions as tractors or pushers with no mods. If you mean swapping the shaft out the other end (for mounting behind a firewall), that can be done on any of the newer "T" models via the set screws that hold the prop shaft in. Would assume the "D" has the same options. Please clearify for those who have just woke up.

critterhunter

Found this thread on the new radio. Also, look down towards the bottom for a link to another cheap computer radio.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=705356

And more on the E-Fly's specs...

http://www.sharkysparkflyers.co.za/...ccb5da1a735ee55

Guess it isn't a "true" computer radio, but the other linked in the message thread is and looks good.

tam popo

Hiya! The shaft could b ordered from the shop in the two ways you mentioned - but I made a b@@ls up and ordered wrong one.
_______________________________________
About the E-Fly TX and RX. Can't get the e-Sky rx's to work with E-Fly TX and crystal. The E-Fly works with the RX supplied, I suspect its the crystal and although the frequency is stated as 35FM channel 75 I have my doubts. Getting a new crystal tomorrow and keep you posted. Its annoying cos of the delay factor - I've got numero uno Stryker waiting for an RX that works (b/less,Crit modded, 2200 Lipo and cool black bubble canopy, yum yum) but its still "wall art", just waiting!![>:][&o] The E-Fly comes in 2 versions, 2500ft. and 500ft. ranges. You can't programm some esc's cos you need digital set and you'll need V-tail mixer cos the set won't do it. In the UK "mixers" are usually £8-£10 but there is one shop that sells their own make (yearh, right!!!) for only £2. If you buy anything else from them stick a few V-tail mixers in the order. And they work fine. Seek Robotbirds and ye shall find!!