reaperofsoulz

what the hell are my thoughts to the wind these days too. nice to hear you could get out, i've been thinking about a night job just so i can fly during the day everyday!!!! probably not completly thought through. The Sonosatan looks wicked fast with the dual prop set-up...scary fast [X(]

critterhunter

No time to reply at the moment (I will) but real quickly, the brushless motor interface is sold by two or three different companies for the Parkzone planes, I think. I can't remember the name at the moment but will try to dig up a link if somebody doesn't beat me to it.

critterhunter

Here's a link to a long thread on one of these devices...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430386

tam popo

Reaper - SonofSatan is what happens to old Strykers that hit Terra Firma too hard!! Ive don my apprecticeship on the Dark Side thread but left it 'cos I wasn't into flying missiles at 140+mph - I just love flying!! Critt did his time there and was at the forefront of modding the plane so that it would withstand a LOT of knocks. there's nothin better than a well sorted, strongly modded Styker (like yours) with the right b/less matched to the right lipo, a nice little vertical work hen needed, a few easy loops etc and back in (almost!!) one piece. Oh, and I like to watch planes, not blurs. The only thing stopping this SoS is the diagram - I've got the 2 matched b/less E-max, 2 25A esc's, props and TX/RX and the 2 separate lipo's. Th deign brief was to mke it very light, even down to using just 2S 1000+ lipos. If anybody has a diagram or can describe in words how to wire it I'll fix it asap. Cheers guys.

Swift427

Tam,

My F27C is still in three pieces waiting for me, reinforcement and some Sumo glue.
Going in the other direction--custom building a Bierlot XI-II (ThulinA) Slow Flyer. It will weigh 16-20oz so can handle a little breeze.

Check out these full scale replicas and restored--scroll down left to check out 15 beautiful photos(enlarge). What a blast it would be to do some dog fighting with water balloons and a paint pellet machine gun in a couple of those replicas.
[link]http://www.airliners.net/search/photo.search?aircraft_genericsearch=Bleriot%20XI%2 0Monoplane&distinct_entry=true#[/link]

When are you going to get an avatar for yourself?

tam popo

Swifty - thats a great site, its in my fave's box now!! I'll have an Avatar when I figure out how to do it[>:] My pics are too big, bloody computers[>:] I'm joining a local club, mainly nitro but the leccy guys are making their mark. So I need some street cred and getting a futaba 6ex 2.4mhz and 2 new big planes, probably a Minimag as a trainer and some sort of foam 3D for more advanced stuff. I'll keep my other planes (mainly GWS) for when I need a quick flying fix at local park. I had my first flyaway last week, my pride and joy b/less EZ*, I loved that plane. Still not found. So now I put a sticker on planes saying "store lipo batteries for safety near naked flames", at least then I can spot the house that stole my plane, its the one with smoke coming from it!!! (for newbies that was a tongue in cheek joke and should not be done in real life, but this isn't real life is it? Is it?) See you around Swifty.....

AeroRecon

I think I need to spend more time here. tam popo is right about The Dark Side threads. I kinda felt like I was intruding because I am not into speed but duration and lifting capabilities. My new Stryker passion is aerial video.
[link=http://YouTube.com/AllenAJS]Styker Aerial Videos on YouTube[/link]

I like slow and steady and strong climbing. I am getting 20 minute flights with video these days.
F27B frame
Eflite 2700 BL
CC ESC 35a (I think)
TP 2100 LiPos
Futaba 6EX with HS-81 servos
Lots of 3M packing tape and some CF reinforcements.
Recently added an FMADirect Co-Pilot (love it)

I fly almost every day and have been playing more with my new Co-Pilot setup on the variable 6th channel. Works well and has gotten me out of a few jams already! Loose orientation and just crank up the gain and she rights herself back to level. Sweet.

Anyway, just wanted to say hi to everyone. Gryphon on the Dark Side has been a HUGE help in my set up as have others there.
I think I am going to do a new build soon. Should have stated with a clean new frame with more CF to protect against warping, which is what I have now. It has been a great learning and testing platform though.
If interested I will post more of my video links as I get them online. I have over 50 videos now but no time to edit and post online.

Below are some still captures from video. Using a Sony T7 I get 640x480@30fps and decent still shots. First 4 are over a new hospital site near me and then over the Rappahannock River in Fredericksburg, Virginia. Enjoy!
Allen

afpe45

What is the DARKSIDE that I have seen a few times on this thread,

afpe45.

tam popo

fpe45 - Hiya!! Dark Side referred to is the "Dark Side" thread, like this one for Strykers but very speed orientated (some might disagree!!). If you are interested in pushing the boundaries of the modded Stryker with Mega or other b/less motors and 3/4/5/6S lipos that might interest you - I try and find the balance between the two, this thread and the Dark Side - mainly cos I'm 56 and retired and my budget doesn't stretch to £1000's. It can be quite an eye opener. To find: Go to the page "Park Flyers etc" then click on it, next page look for a thread saying something about "Dark Side etc"..... I'd give you the link now but wifey is calling - dinner is ready!!!
Nice to see you here, how's Rochdale these days. I worked for the Oldham Chronicle (Union Street) for 14 years, still go back the odd weekend (family etc). I used to drink in the saddleworth, Milnrow areas. See you later....

tam popo

FPE45 - here's the link, enjoy..... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60...73/key_/tm.htm Byeee....
Let us know what you fly, background, you'll always get help from anyone here, especially Critterhunter...

reaperofsoulz

Well heres the final look, I call this bird the Wing Commander. I have many more pix coming with a quality camera, this is just a camera pic phone so i could post when i got home...see ya

tam popo

Reaper - thats a credit to you pal, a real beauty. Be proud, that bird is up there with some of the best. Have a good flying day.....

critterhunter

WOW, that bird looks awesome! Great job! I want to see some better photos of it, top and bottom, with closer views so I can marvel at it more. It's no exageration when he says it's one of the best. For some reason it reminds me of my brother's Mach 1 Mustang he used to have with the stripes and color. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the finish looks very deep.

The brushless conversion adaptors can be found by doing a search with google or Yahoo. Look for "running a brushless motor on a Stryker", or "running a brushless motor on parkzone", or something similar. I may do some looking for you and throw some more links up, but the one I posted already should do well. You may want to PM Hagar because I'm pretty sure has run his 2409-12 Strykers that way with good results.

The Dark Side threads started with the first release of the Stryker a few years ago. The threads had always been about modding Stryker bodies for ease of use and strength, as well as going as fast as possible on the cheap. Eventually it morphed into going as fast as possible at all costs and that's where I drifted away. The tradition is that after 100 posts a new Elder is supposed to be nominated to set the theme for the next one. When that happens I may drift back to it.

The line between "cheap" and "fast" is blurring fast with the advent of new motors from over seas, so I see "cheap" raising it's ugly head again as a major theme. That's what attracted me and many others to the Stryker in the first place. Where else could you buy a ready to fly plane complete with TX, battery, charger, and everything else for well under $200? It was just natural for many of us to want to improve the performance while also remaining cheap. But, as things become popular and trendy, they also attract a new crowd with deeper pockets. Just look at NASCAR. The "keeping it cheap" theme is also what got me into hot wiring out foam bodies a year or so ago. I get great satisfaction out of building my own planes out of foam that cost me little to nothing, and what you can build is limited only by your imagination.

Tam Popo, great job on your build as well!

tam popo

Question for anyone wanting to mod a plane - Where or wot can you buy as a bare complete shell for only £15 (UK price). Thats the equivalent price of a 3S 1000 lipo!!! Ok, you then have to buy the elevons, fins, canopy - NO you don't!! I use balsa for all of those and a cut down mouth wash bottle for a canopy. Cheapskate? Yes, but its going to crash at some time so why not spend the money saved on "the works"? Keep the faith brothers.......

critterhunter

Good tips. I've used Coruplast (sign material you sometimes see nailed to telephone poles) for the fins and elevons in the past. Heavier but tough. Getting ready to start melting my own canopies for various planes.

Did the most flying I've done in a long time yesterday. Came with two planes (My streamlined Stryker...AKA Streaker, and my homemade Dual Boomer) and went home with two, so that was a plus. I got one flight out of Streaker and no problems. Didn't do too much stunting with it because, even though it's flown about twenty times, I was busy fine tuning trim and dual rates. Since it's built like a brick it should be around a LONG time. There, now I've hexed myself.

On a final note, the 15C Loong Max 2250ma packs we are using from United Hobbies are doing well thus far but the proof will be after 30 or so cycles. I was using the 15C 2250ma 3 cell yesterday, but I'd opt for the 20C on the Stryker to be safe if amp draw is close to 30 like the 8x6 E on the 12T motor. It's very light, already has the deans soldered on, and as an added bonus they give you the ESC male plug. These packs are only around $18. The 20C packs are about $24. If they don't puff or lose capacity they'll be a great value. So far my blue HXT 20C 2250ma 3 cell pack is also doing well with no puffing. My Hi-Model pack has puffed and no longer can deliver the amps needed. With only about 40 or so flights on it I'd say stay away from them. They are more expensive anyway.

reaperofsoulz

TEST POST

failed video ~~

working on pix and text

tam popo

Critter, guys - Hi-Model lipos. They are the only ones I use now, some good, some bad. It could be a charger problem but the I don't seem to get a full charge in the larger sizes (2000+ 3S) but my smaller lipos (850, 1000 2S) are fine, brilliant. It could be a charger problem (E-Sky EK2-0851). The price over here is quite cheap, probably the cheapest and I only use 20C.
Just ordered a new EZ* to replace the one that got away, uses a 2200 2S and E-Max b/less for easy 30 minute flights. Nght all.....

reaperofsoulz

Here we have the standard Stryker F27B, the design couldn't be much simpler, all the elements of flight are there. Much like any basic platform, however, there is much room for improvement. I decided to first tackle the structural flaws of the Stryker in hopes to get as much air time as possible without the need for time and money wasting repairs. Power mods to come later once I know I have a plane that won't fall apart the first time the signal goes out or pilot error and it meets a tree, even worse the ground.

(PLEASE~ keep in mind what i'm showing you was all done by a couple of guys new to RC planes and is in no way a professional guide or experts instruction on how to do anything, the pictures are all taken by myself or my partner in crime and show exactly how the plane looks whether good or bad)

If you've been following the thread recently you'll see what i've done up to this point including carbon fiber top motor mount and canopy, bottom kevlar motor mount area and kevlar lined wing fronts to tips all finished off with a coat of S-glass along the entire bottom and encasing the nose. I last left you in primer stage with hopes to maiden the new 27 oz beauty. That having gone well I need to get some paint on her.

After I layed my basic design with a pen it was time for paint. First starting with a coat of what we're calling StrykerBlack, a sparkling multicolor metallic black, goes over the areas i marked, later to be dryed and masked as shown below ready for the gold metallic.

Some more drying time and she was finally ready for a couple coats of clear to protect her new finish...once again set to dry.

I measured before and after paint and it may have only added a 1/2oz. if that. Im using a kitchen scale so its not exact but now that shes all painted i plan to weight her at the ups store. Heres some pix...white marks are most likely the lights reflections...

you can kind of see the sparkle in the black on the wing edge, the carbon fiber needs to be wiped off


Heres a good bottom shot, i'll be able to tell up and down with an all gold bottom and black striped top. You can also see where I had to perform open heart surgery and replace the servo.Maybe i'll put a sticker or something on it.

I wanted more cooling so I redrilled the stock holes, you can see where there is more fiberglass towards the nose I could sand it more and got it smoother compared to the area near the hand-launch holes that still looks like foam, its still covered though.

streamline, yes I plan to wax her regularly


those are reflections near the nose and intake


I want to thank tam popo and critter for there interest in my project but mostly for the info I have already gotten and will need in the future, thanks guyz! The credit for the actual paint and fiberglass work goes to Dream 2 Reality's very own dutchman William Jansz, also my rc buddy we started out with a cheapy EDF plastic boat from ebay and now are laying carbon fiber on planes and testing an 800Watt EDF. Concept and design as well as ownership by myself Scott Campbell

tam popo

Reaper - what a credit to yourself and your "team" - a brilliant plane. Don't knock yourselves 'cos you think you're Newbie - you're not in my Books a newbie. Because of the weight i personaly think it will have to have a b/less etc to get the best from it, but try small steps first, limit yourself to lipo first then search around for the b/less that will get the best out of it. That way you don't have to go to Hacker, Mega (!!), or even E-Flite motors, saves money etc. There's a huge market out there of b/less powerplants, most good, few are bad!!! I personally started with TowerPro, Ok but the windings at back always got damaged, so now I am totally E-Max for all my planes.
When you get a minute, seeing as you are now the Boss on glassing etc, can you tell me the process for making a glass "shoe" to slip over the front foam fuse of my new EZ*!! I'll need to make a mould then glass (what sort?) over the mould, then make it into a 2-piece slipper to go over the foam. Any ideas would be good if you get the time. Cheers and thanks. Oh, and I know one or 2 "stryker experts(??)" who couldn't make a bird like yours!![8D]

afpe45

@tam popo,
all you need to do is tape some polythene (tesco bag) over the nose, being carefull not to get any big creases in it , then lay a couple of layers of fibreglass over that ,when cured just slide it off and hey presto ,you have a new nose cone, I have made a few this way for other projects with succes every time.
afpe45.

tam popo

Alpe45 - yearh, thats a good idea but I want it to be smooth on the outside, so I reckon I'll need a male/female type mould method. But thanks.
Rochdale eh!! I'm from Stretford/Cheadle originally and worked for Oldham Chronicle for 14 years met the love of my life Eileen and moved to Fort Apache, Glasgow.[] There's some here on the threads called Stu..... who also lives in Rochdale and flys a Cessna. Ya making me homesick[][&o][&o][]

reaperofsoulz

I can't wait to fly it...work and the wind are keepin me down man

tam popo > a shoe sounds like a great idea, take it off and replace it after damage or scratches. The way mentioned above would work for an inside match of your stryker but your right, the outside unless sanded completely smooth would show as fiberglass and pools of resin. For a true fiberglass shoe you will need to make a mold, then out of that mold you can make shoe after shoe all you want. My buddy and i plan to make entire styker bodies out of carbon fiber and fiberglass (how much interest would people have in buying just a super light weight carbon fiber stryker body?) We will buy a foam stryker body to make the mold off of but it will pretty much ruin the foam body, which is fine, one lost foam body for a molding structure that can make many many bodies out of CF or fiberglass.

I have to go to work and will post more if someone doesnt beat me to it. also just google about fiberglass mold making and you should be good

reaperofsoulz

>>> http://www.fgci.com/howto/ht003fiberglass_mold.html

good how to

critterhunter

AeroRecon, nice photos! I've got a total of three camera setups sitting around for a couple of years that I have yet to fly. A 2.4ghz 2000mw CCD, a 1.9ghz (1.2ghz?) 800mw CMOS, and the third is my Aiptek 5100M 5 megapixel pocket camcorder. It'll do video or stills at various resolutions. Did fly the CMOS wireless job on a Stryker once but only for a few minutes (bad location). I've got an AP platform I'm working on right now for these. It's a homemade foamie pusher much along the lines of the Busy Bee. Big fat fuse to house and protect the equipment.

Nice photos of the build. I'll have a response later, as I'm printing out the page to read over a smoke or two. Looks like a good job, can't wait to read the details.

afpe45

Believe me my idea works,as the finnished(sanded) surface is a nice key for painting,(which I assume you would be doing),then give it a final coat of resin and give the finnished cone (or what ever else you wanted to replicate) a polish with t-cut and it looks like it was made in a mold and a coloured gell coat put down first. I know it will be a couple of mm bigger (inside diameter) but as it is to be slid over the front of the stryker where the original one butted up to it makes a nice snug push fit.
I still use the traditional method for some things ,but this is a quick alternative to,(1) first doing what I suggested,(the inside of the first mold is smooth due to the polythene as fibreglass wont stick to it) its just the same as the traditional way,where you would paint the nose cone first with some enamel paint and then put release agent on to stop it sticking to the nose cone then lay-up your fibreglass to make the mold,then (2)put release agent in the mold,then put your gell coat in then stipple your fibreglass in to make the finnished cone, cheaper too as you dont use as much resin and fibreglass.
If you wern't going to paint it , I would use carbon fibre because it has that deep lustre,we all know and love, after the t-cut treatment,paint it with one coat of resin then t-cut it again to get that deep lustre just as if it was made the traditional way in a mold.

Any way it works for me.

afpe45.

@tam popo,
My dad's side of the family comes from from STRETFORD originaly,my dad moved to Stockport (Hazel Grove)when he married my mom ,where I was born,then when I was five we moved to Littlebourough on a farm called "Heyhead farm",then I moved to Rochdale,
in 1972 when I came out of the army, I fly on "brown Wardle Hill", mostly sloping.