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Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Old 02-05-2008, 06:45 PM
  #351  
reaperofsoulz
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

i just crashed my spitfire...i got one of those 5n1 edvr recorders so i taped it to the tail of the spit and went out to test it. I was in such a hurry i didnt do any flight check at all and dont really know what happened. It went up and rolled over to the left and it was to late, i cut power and she went nose first into the dirt. The worst part is i dont know why but the camera didnt record the crash which would have made it all worth it. It was off when i went to pick up the reckage but works fine now. I just got that darn plane too, gonna have to take out the stryker next time, i know if that happened i'd just be dusting off some grass and be able to throw it up again...it'll be weeks before the spitfire flys again... [&o]
Old 02-05-2008, 07:37 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Alpe45 - the "shoe" is for a new Multiplex Easystar, my second, a fantastic plane when its got a b/less - its fine stock and its BIG (56in. w/span!!). I'll try your method cos its sounds easier and can be done in a day, and yes, it will be painted and it doesn't matter if its a few mm bigger, weight isn't a problem cos this bird is renowned for aerial cam work.
My last house was in Stretford, one of the new ones near the station. I sold it when I moved here for £500,000 and then found out that the buyer was man Utd for their youth team members!!!! I know Littleborough, used to mountain bile around Black Rock and play rugby at a club under the M62 near the lake (forgotten its name). Gawd, what a small world....be safe......
Old 02-05-2008, 07:39 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

reaper - sorry to hear about the Spitfire. I've heard they can be hard to fly (as most warbirds). It just gives you a good excuse to get another plane....
Old 02-05-2008, 08:21 PM
  #354  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

@reaperofsoulz,
cam on the tail!!!. I hope you put weight on the nose to get your F/A CofG , and if the cam wasn't central I hope you added weight on the other side to ballance the L/R CofG.
I know you will have done...just curios.
Dont do the same with your stryker....its too nice.

@tam popo.
Have a practice with a small piece just so you know what it looks like after sanding and a final coat of resin, you would swear you had used a mold,.
I would go for carbon fibre,it looks gorgious when finnished with a coat of resin. just look at reapers stryker, that is what the carbon finnish would look like.

"Littlebr'o Lions", is the club behind Hollingworth Lake, I do the 25 mile littlebr'o Boundry walk every year and we start and finnish there ,it is run by Fred of the lions,
I mountain bike all round there also, from the lake to Blackstone edge,VIA THE RADIO MAST.then through Summit(Calderbrook)to Wardle down Syke right to my door . my son is usualy with me, When he started biking at the age of 6 ,he couldn't keep up.... now he is 26 and.....you guessed it. He says ,Dad you will have to slow down, don't forget you are 63 yrs old now.... and I say that is only my age not my state of mind.......

afpe45.
Old 02-05-2008, 08:54 PM
  #355  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Alpe - 63!!! Broody hell, I'm just a pup at 56 and retired I started flying again to relieve the boredom, thank God for electric planes I come down to M/c every 3 months to sis and bro in Stockport, but M/c has changed and not all for the better. Got to go now, I'm a mystery shopper and I have to fill in reports and I work p/t as a drugs/alcohol counsellor for the Council in Primary schools!!!! Byeee....
Oh, I'll try a small section first, good idea
Old 02-06-2008, 07:36 PM
  #356  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Good thing I did all this reinforcing of The Wing Commander because I decided to go out and play at lunch today in the wind. She was soaring great, even on takeoff there was no dip down(i guess cause it was so windy) but the wind didnt really bother the 30oz. beast to much when i was in control but if it went into a dive it was some real work to save it. I had to set the trim on my TX all the way up because the plane was lifting so much because of the wind and i needed to keep the nose down.

Well it must have been a combination of the hieght and distance because i started to lose signal and the plane just kept on flying straight away from me...now that scared me. I started to walk forward to try and get a hold of her and she finally started to respond to my deserate pulls on the stick curving around to the left out of the wind and back towards me. This was good until shortly after i realised i once again had no control and heading away from the wind i lost lift and it started to spiral dive. I was pulling back on the stick like a mad man as i watch my newly painted, hours of work speeding towards the marshiest reed filled part of the lake near where i fly... CRUNCH is all i here and then silence. In front of me where i fly is over a mile of cow land (this is where the planes usually stay)but behind where i stand about 400 feet away is a lake, 100 feet away from me is swampy reeds and mud leading out to the lake....this is where it crashed. This is also the one place that all the time i've been flying in this area that I did not want to land in.

What could i do but start my trek into the icy murky waters, full clothed shoes and jeans im stomping myself waist high trying to make my way through what looks to me like what i see on the discovery channel as alligator nests, luckily im in california and dont think theres much worse than a fish or 2 in this lake. At least 80 feet from the shore now im cold, wet and have no idea where this plane landed....then I realise I have the radio in my hand still ( i thought about setting it on the shore). I hit the throttle and maybe 10 feet away i hear the sounds of a struggling engine, i burst over this stack of reeds taller than me into an open area of water where my Stryker lays right on the edge of the reeds nose first about a foot from 5 foot deep water. The holes i drilled in the bottom let some water into the battery area but other than that everything else looks good. I have to bench test to find out what went wrong but it may have been that i had the trim set to bring the nose down and it did just that when it was facing away from the high wind. Soaking wet but happy to have my plane I went home to shower and change before having to go back to work. Only damage to the Wing Commander after at least a 50 foot nose dive into watery reeds is about a 1/2" round 1/4" deep hole on one wing edge where a reed rammed straight in between where the kevlar meets the fiberglass.Without reinforcments I would have lost the wing hit by the reed as well as the nose and most the front end which would have made it sink further into the water and would have destroyed most if not all my components....maybe i should stick to the decathlon trainer plane [X(]
Old 02-06-2008, 07:55 PM
  #357  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Reaper - you lucky, lucky sod!!! Buy a lottery ticket cos you're bound to win this week. Thats a good ending and at least you got yours back, I lost my best plane (EZ*) a few weeks ago, somebody stole it I think after it landed. Thats wot you get for living in Fort Apache, The Bronx, Glasgow[>:] If yours had been stock it would be R.I.P.[&o][]
Old 02-06-2008, 07:56 PM
  #358  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Reaper - you lucky, lucky sod!!! Buy a lottery ticket cos you're bound to win this week. Thats a good ending and at least you got yours back, I lost my best plane (EZ*) a few weeks ago, somebody stole it I think after it landed. Thats wot you get for living in Fort Apache, The Bronx, Glasgow[>:] If yours had been stock it would be R.I.P.[&o][]
Old 02-06-2008, 11:54 PM
  #359  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

thanks tam popo i know im lucky to get her back at all much less not water logged or in pieces. Sorry to hear someone stole yours, i remember reading that post, i'd be so [:@] After a complete bench test i'm having some servo problems (the one i didn't replace of course!!) it may be the clear coat on the elevrons but i cleared most that off. The servo will go all the way one direction and stop in the middle when trying to go the other direction, of course that direction that it won't go would make the plane climb...probably why it wouldnt pull up and simple spun to its near death. The weak engine sound i heard out in the marsh was the prop, aparently it's taken to many hits and was grinding out in the middle where it slides on the prop shaft...i replaced that and everything is fine but that servo. well not really the servo because i unhooked the elevron and and the servo horn travels both directions no problem, not clicking like the last broken one. I'm starting to think i'm nearing the end of using stock parkzone electronics in this heavy flyer and need to finally get a Radio/reciever/servo combo...any recommendations?
Old 02-07-2008, 05:15 AM
  #360  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Reaper - it depends on your budget and wot you want to fly in the future. Are you staying with Stryker for some time or do you look at other planes and think...mmmmmmm!
My suggestion: Get a cheap TX and RX set (sometimes with servos), like Hitec, E-Sky, anything cheap (not 2.4 dx6 etc). get a bare Stryker fuse and install cf rods (as per CritterH tips), get a cheap b/less outrunner (TPro, nything etc) and an F27C motormount. Add a dollop of 1700 - 2200 3S lipo, build, paint, mix together and hey presto an F27C Lookalike (better?). Servos should be decent 3-wire ones (HS55, HS81 etc). Only glass in vital areas like motor mount, nose. Balsa fins, elevons and tape hinges. All this should cost no more than £110 (price of stock F27b) with the TX and everything!!! I've done it 3 times so I know it can be a hoot!! see you later, I-net shopping to do....
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Old 02-07-2008, 11:13 AM
  #361  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

looks good tam popo, i like the visible color and those smaller fins on the nose cone. My buddy just purchased a bare fuse for the stryker so i'll see how his project goes. thanks for the tx advice, do you guys really think a cheapy is the way to go or should i just get one radio that i can use from now on and it'll work all my planes? thats what i want, one radio...multi planes. I was looking at the Dx7 all new with everything for 319$
Old 02-09-2008, 11:05 AM
  #362  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)


ORIGINAL: reaperofsoulz

thanks tam popo i know im lucky to get her back at all much less not water logged or in pieces. Sorry to hear someone stole yours, i remember reading that post, i'd be so [:@] After a complete bench test i'm having some servo problems (the one i didn't replace of course!!) it may be the clear coat on the elevrons but i cleared most that off. The servo will go all the way one direction and stop in the middle when trying to go the other direction, of course that direction that it won't go would make the plane climb...probably why it wouldnt pull up and simple spun to its near death. The weak engine sound i heard out in the marsh was the prop, aparently it's taken to many hits and was grinding out in the middle where it slides on the prop shaft...i replaced that and everything is fine but that servo. well not really the servo because i unhooked the elevron and and the servo horn travels both directions no problem, not clicking like the last broken one. I'm starting to think i'm nearing the end of using stock parkzone electronics in this heavy flyer and need to finally get a Radio/reciever/servo combo...any recommendations?
ALL the information you need on electronics is in this thread's build steps. Look through the first few pages and I go into detail. A good radio that I love at a decent price is the JR600sx ($149, comes with RX, servos, etc). You can pick it up used for around $60 to $80 without anything but the battery/charger. The stock battery stinks, so I use a battery holder and Energizer 2500ma AAs inside the TX battery compartment.
Old 02-11-2008, 01:31 PM
  #363  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)


ORIGINAL: reaperofsoulz

looks good tam popo, i like the visible color and those smaller fins on the nose cone. My buddy just purchased a bare fuse for the stryker so i'll see how his project goes. thanks for the tx advice, do you guys really think a cheapy is the way to go or should i just get one radio that i can use from now on and it'll work all my planes? thats what i want, one radio...multi planes. I was looking at the Dx7 all new with everything for 319$
Before I forget, great job on the build! Sorry to hear about the crash but sounds like she survived well. I think I read somewhere that antennas should not be inclosed by carbon fiber as it will interfer with radio signals. Might want to check up on that as I'm not sure. Might have caused your crash.

Nice info on fiberglassing from you guys. I'm going to have to give that a try for some of my foamie homemade builds.

I'd go with a computer radio right off the bat. The Parkzone/Hobbyzone complete packages were/are a great way for a newbie to get into RC. The challenger got my foot in the door, and the 27B got me further in, but when you are hooked completely it's time to go to standard RC electronics. Here's a cheapie list:

JR sx600 6 channel radio $149 (comes with RX, servos, and charger for TX battery). 10 model memory, numerous flight control configurations. I love this radio but the only thing I wish it had was the ability to link one channel to another for various mixing. For example, to have the radio automaticly adjust the elevator down a bit when the throttle is at full to prevent climbing on some planes, etc. This feature is not a must have as it's taking the place of what your fingers should be doing, but it would be nice. The radio also has dual rates, expotential, and so on. If you buy a complete new system make sure it comes with "park flyer" sized servos and not the huge ones used in gas. If you want to save more money buy a used radio alone for $60 or so. Don't worry about if it has a battery and charger or not. I get much longer run times by using Energizer 2500ma nimhs (Walmart) in a 8 AA holder (Radio Shack) installed in the battery bay. It just plugs into the radio's two pin power jack .Same style jack cordless phones batteries use, so while at Radio Shack as if you can snip a few of the junk batteries people bring in to re-cycle. Remember that JR radios have the power terminals reversed, so pay attention to the plug's polarity markings. Normaly red goes to back and vise versa. I then charge the radio off my Pirahna nimh/nicad Digital Peak charger (love it). .3 amps for a slow charger, .8 amps for a quick blast if in the field.

RX: Cheap GWS 3 channels are like $20 or less, but I'd buy a 6 channel so you can use it in other plans that require more channels than a Stryker.

ESC: $15 30 Tower Pro from United Hobbies. Work well and you can't find a cheaper price. 30 amps will cover you on most motors. Always good to have more amp ability than you use.

Might as well buy your RX from them too and save. A $15 Corona (single or dual conversion) will work well. You need a positive shift RX for JR radios, and the right crystal channel number to match your TX.

Lipos: Try the HXT 2250ma 3 cell 20C packs from them, or the new Long Max packs of the same specs. $28 for the HXT, cheaper for the Long Max. You won't find lipos any cheaper either.

Motor: 2409-12T (The "D" version is built better with the same specs) for like $10, but I'd suggest starting out with the 2408-21 (BP21) in the "T" or "D" version to get your feet wet. It'll have plenty of speed and almost unlimited verticle. The 12T has more speed and unlimited V, but it's amp draw is almost double than the BP21. BP21 on the best prop for a Stryker is the 7x6SF APC, drawing 14 to 16 amps. The 12T on a APC 8x6E is drawing close to 30 amps and red lining the motor. A 7x6SF will be less amps and still should give unlimited V.

Servos: HS81 ($15 per). Some use the metal gear versions but I don't. Some have got away with using HXT900 servos ($4 each) but they have less torque and might strip easier. I love these servos. They are perfect for things where HS81s are a bit overkill, but HS55s would be too weak. Also found on United Hobbies website as is everything else above but the radio.

Wire: 14 gauge. Plugs: Deans Ultras. Pick up motor bullet plugs for your ESC to motor wires as well.


Hope this all helps.


Old 02-11-2008, 01:54 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

great info critter...i already made the leap this weekend and was hoping to write all about it but will post quickly while at work.
I got a Futaba 6EX with FASST 2.4Ghz system, came with a super light reciever. I picked up a couple of thse HS-81 MG metal gear (sick of replacing servos). all this will be going into the Wing Commander (stryker) with brushless motor and esc. I will post links and pix but you could just google it im sure, awesome features like all the others plus i can help my buddy learn to fly with his futaba and a trainer cord. thanks for all the info guyzzzz
Old 02-12-2008, 12:33 AM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Hi everyone, I am kind of new at this.
I have a Stryker "B" and a motor mount for a Stryker"C".
1- Can I put a brushless motor in and keep the same electronics of the "B" ?
2- I have a P51 Mustang from PZ (replacement airframe only) that I was planning on flying with the same electronics. Is it possible?
3- Should i throw away 4 X 5W PZ servos, the RX/ESC, the transmitter and buy all 3W servos, new motors, ESC and radio system?
Thank you very much in advance.
Old 02-12-2008, 01:43 AM
  #366  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

1 ~ well i can tell you the B electronics will not run a brushless without a little interface, i thought about doing this but before that could happen the weak parkzone servos went out and to put anything that works well in there you need a whole new radio -reciever -servo -brushless setup.

2 ~ run the p-51 with what electronics? the strykers? you do have to pull the jumper to change from V tail to T tail but i cant remember if the p51 is 3 wire like the spitfire or 5 wire like the stryker...if its not 5 wire you will need to change over all electronics and im sure it'll work like a champ.

3 ~ never throw away your working parts...broken parts do not bother to hold onto thinking you will someday need it, its broken trash it, but your just upgrading...someone if not yourself will want it for something. Yes, I have figured out 3 broken parkzone flyers later that if you want something reliable you have to do it yourself. Like in my post right above yours, i used the stock parts all i could...first I lost one servo, then the other one and finally the engine decided to go. Thats not even structural stuff like a crash would do, thats from normal use. Unfortunately money wise if you upgrade one thing you need to upgrade the other, put the best brushless prop setup you can on a stock stryker with servos that cant handle pulling out of a high G dive and whats the point...you'd need new servos and the whole setup...good luck
Old 02-12-2008, 04:15 AM
  #367  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Reaper is right about throwing stuff away - Don't. I'll give an example. The RX/TX and 5-wires servos lay in my bits box for ages after I went the full route etc. Then I made a wing (like a small Zagi) and didn't want to spend a lot on fixing it up so I used the P/zone stuff. It flew and is still flying and cost absolutely nothing!!!! Don't chuck it away or you'll regret it...... byee.....
Old 02-18-2008, 01:52 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Took Streaker out for 3 or 4 flights Saturday. Great fun with no problems. Still tweaking the rates a bit on her. Landing on hard snow was fun. It slid a good distance. Thanks to the Tyvek home wrap which holds paint really good, not a missing spot of paint on the belly. Friend keeps pushing me to finish winding the Go Brushless Triple Stator motor and throw it on there. Waiting until warmer spring weather. I want to scrape more of the rust off my flying skills and also try to get some doppler readings in on the 12T to post.
Old 02-18-2008, 02:09 PM
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look out, its a streaker!!! [8D] it was a nice weekend for flying out here in cali too. Sunday I got a couple flights on my Super Decathlon with a new micro steerable tailwheel (came off last landing and can't be found) Then while my other planes are recovering from damage my buddy just got a StrykerF27C plug N play...added his futaba setup and I flew that for almost 10 landings, FFFAAASSSTT little beast that stock C setup, unlimited vertical while twisting = AWESOME !!! We just got the trainer cord and are going to program our futabas so he can fly the strykerC, he's also adding the Futaba coPilot in there for even more protection. He has more planes than me but has yet to fly even one, i think he's seen me crash too many times to know that much skill and training is needed for successful no damage flights and he's not up for weeks of repair work for 10 minutes of fun. His thoughts are fiberglass is the way to go, harder to break and easier to fix. Keep Flyin' !
Old 02-20-2008, 02:03 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Here's a great link to some testing of both the "T" and "D" versions of the 2408-21 (BP21), 2409-12 (12T), and 2409-18, all of which are some of my favorite motors for price and performance. Not very efficient motors but the 18 isn't all that bad and it's a great low RPM/high torque motor for slower builds or even 3D. The 12T is a nice combination of both speed and torque, sort'a motor that's got it all...real good speed but the ability to be a torque monster for unlimited V. Think of the BP21 as a little brother to the 12T, perfect for planes under 20 or so. Again, the "D" versions are the same specs but just built much better. Get those if you can.

This page and the following one have reviews of various "T and D" versions.

http://myhobbycity.com/showthread.php?t=345&page=2

PS- Note the mph and prop choices for the 12T. I think he even tests a 9x6 on it. [8D] I've got to sit down and read this thing on paper...
Old 02-20-2008, 08:36 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Hiya guys - I'm back flying Stryker wings after all this time. Sonof Satan was fitted with a spare E-Max 2805 at the back and a 1700 3S anf boy did she go!!! I'd forgotten how much fun these things are. I found the problem with the handling of SoS, it was the CoG too far back. When uou chop off the nose cone and any surplus foam from a Stryker the CoG goes out the window. So at the site I taped 2 old AA batteries right at the front and hey presto, some of the best flights of any of my planes!!! It was flying 15-20ft. off the deck from left to right just in front of me and this passing dog walker and all we could say (together) was "Bloody hell, thats fasttttttt!!!!). The slightest touch of up elevator and it went vert without stopping. This thing is so light it doesn't need Mega's, 4/5/6S lipos and a site the size of Texas - I reckon this is what its about, cheap, fast, FUN!!!
So I started to build MotherofSatan from another old crashed shell. I'll have pics next week........and for those that have forgotten SonofSatan here he is.....
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:17 PM
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

Good job! That's always been the double edged challenge to me...Make it as fast as possible but also as cheap as possible. Anybody can just throw money at something and make it go fast. The only challenge there is pulling gobs of cash out of your wallet to buy MPH. Researching what is cheaper but gives you the same results, along with a little creativity to get you there...that's more my cup of tea. Mix in ways to achieve ease of use in the field and also hold up to extreme punishment and that's where I'm at...Old school Dark Side.

On that note, EDF prices and matching motors have come down so much in price lately (Thank you Hobby City) that they are a valid option for your average every day RC guy. I'm right now investigating purcasing my first EDF and a motor to power it with for a speed competition at the local flying field this spring/summer. There is still a lot of loose ends and scattered data out there to sift through and so far I've taken about four or five days of searching the net and compiling information. The combo I settle on should be a perfect match for a Stryker as well as the weight and size of my scratch built platform will be roughly the same. When I finalize my choice I'll throw some data up.

EDFs tend to be amp hungry, weak on torque, and have a "lag" on throttle response. However, they can reach some pretty impressive top end speeds, which is more what I'm looking for on this build. Sure, I could go the prop route and it would be much easier in some respects but it's time for me to get my feet wet on these. They also tend to prefer higher cell counts in some setups. That's what's taking me a bit more research than normal. I don't want to go past the normal 3 cell park flyer packs as higher cell counts would have no pratical use for my other planes. The 40 amps (to be safe) top end of my HXT 20C 2200ma 3 cell packs is my amp limit, so I'm looking for something in the 30-40 amp window. Luckily the variety of new EDFs and motors at Hobby City (United) makes 3 cell and that amp range possible. Right now I'm looking at 650g of thrust but still have more research to do.

Old 02-26-2008, 02:29 PM
  #373  
critterhunter
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

I've got an initial chart done for EDFs and it looks like I've made my choice on the motor/EDF combo. The two with the most thrust on a 3 cell and under 40 amps are the 2.5" 64mm 7 blade EDF running on the 3900 k/v HXT2835 motor (about 25 ounces of thrust) at around 30 to 35 amps, or the 2.68" 68mm 5 blade EDF running on the 3900 k/v HXT2835 motor (about 23 ounces of thrust) at around 26 to 33 amps. These are rough averages on the compiled data I've dug up from users.

The 2.68" with this motor, while producing slightly less thrust than the 2.5", is more in the EDF's rated thrust range (750-950g), while the 2.5" is rated to handle 400 to 1500g. That leans me a little more toward the 2.68" even though it may have slightly less thrust with that motor, but what closes the deal for me is that there were more examples of the above thrust and amps to be found on the net to help verify those numbers than the 2.5". For that reason I'm opting for the 2.68" unit being powered by the HXT2835 3900 k/v motor. It would be interesting to see some further tests on both of these fans done with this motor to see which wins out. Anybody?

Update since this post: I bought both fan units so I'm the one who gets to compare them both with the 2835 3900 k/v motor. Incidently, check out some of the user remarks on United Hobbies website about this inrunner. A few guys are throwing it on Strykers (as pushers, not with the EDF) and reporting some very nice air speeds. At $17 for this motor it's a winner compared to the brand names it "mimics".

The next size up EDF (3") had some examples for its, but most if not all of those were for 4 cell or higher packs.

I'm also wondering about the shaft diameter of the EDF and the motor. Some say 3mm, some say 3.175mm. Some say they changed it on the EDF. Fairly confusing. Guess I'll just pick up the 3 and 3.175mm adaptors to cover all bets.

It should also be noted that the HXT2835 (the non-heat sinked version that you should be buying for an EDF) will fit the 2.5" fan but it's .2mm bigger, so the motor's case needs sanded down or the EDF mount hole expanded but people have done it. Think I read where a guy just grinded off a few little plastic ribs in the EDF mount hole to make the motor easily fit. The 2.68" fan has a 29mm mount hole so a little tape wrapped around the motor should snug it just fine according to one post.

23 to 25 ounces of thrust on an EDF using a 3 cell lipo is a little better than I expected to find for them. I can see myself building a nice little fast platform that may indeed do unlimited V still. [8D] Here's the chart I compiled with more to add later. Sorry about the format as the web can/has screwed it up some times. Also sorry I didn't edit down some of the rant at the top. Didn't feel like it doing that yet. It was more of a "mission statement" for myself to focus on what the chart was going to be about.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822677



Old 02-27-2008, 01:02 PM
  #374  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)


And I thought Tower Pro 30 amp ESCs for $14 were cheap (but good)! Looks like another price barrier has fallen. How about $9 30 amp ESCs, $10 40 amp ESCs, and $12 50 amp ones...

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...h=&idSupplier=

And, if you want the cheapest charger on the market but it still does everything you'll ever need for lipos (well, 99.9 percent of the things you'd want...wish it had a capacity display and finer charging amp rate control), check out this one for only $25. A friend uses it and I decided to buy one for a second charger to my Celectra after seeing how well it works. It even recovers packs that are too far out of balance for other chargers, even with a balancing function that isn't like the HXT's. For instance, I had one pack that was so far out of balance due to a weaker cell that my Blinky couldn't hold the other two cells low enough to allow the weak one to catch up. This is dangerous because now the total voltage is still lower than a charged pack while two cells are going higher in voltage than they should be allowed to be.

The HXT charger will charge each cell seperately (your balance plug on your battery plugs into it) and cut them off individualy as each reaches peak. No need for a balancer like the Blinky to use with it since it balances the cells via the individual cell charging process. I've also read that it tends to be faster than many other chargers since it uses this method. For example, using a serial charge on my Celectra (charged through the deans plug) I have Blinky plugged into the balancing plug (called a Molex) on the pack which keeps trying to draw the voltage down on two cells to keep it at the same level of charge as the lowest one. This can slow down the charging process.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=2055

Old 03-20-2008, 09:55 AM
  #375  
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Default RE: Build A Bullet Proof Stryker (Brushless Or Stock)

critterhunter, i like your posts.

about these products, how reliable are they? buy cheap buy twice? scared of electronics failure man, does anyone have first hand experience? Please post any issues you have had.

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