critterhunter

I know this isn't exactly Stryker related but you guys have to check out this thread of hotwiring scratch built foam planes. This guy has got it going on! Printed out the thread so I can read and learn. Makes me feel like I've been working with sticks and stones.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93759

Swift427

I read all of your repair pages on the other thread as my son had a major F27/C crash. Broke off entire motor mount from plane (weight of motor/mount) and nose of plane about 1 1/2 inches further behind the attached nose extension (weigh of Lipo battery driven into fuse nose is what caused the front nose of plane to completely break off). Partially my fault as I used some Loctite Sumo glue to more securely attach the front nose extension. Now, I understand why you only want the front nose cone secure enough for flight, but to release during a crash. Luckily, all the electronics still work. And we thought the first damage to the plane would be one of the fins, but they are still securely attached and good as new.

I was thinking of using a 1/8" dia. hot metal rod to melt the Z-foam in a couple places (about 2 inches apart) up the rear middle interior of the tail under/through the middle of the motor mount foam (where it is thicker in the center) for about six inches total length from the rearmost of the motor mount foam into the fuse. Then insert 6" long carbon tubes into these melted 1/8" diameter openings using a sufficient amount of glue. I really like using this newer Sumo glue from Loctite on foam. Or would you still recommend Gorilla glue as the preferred glue? Being that the weight of the rear motor is likely to crack the foam around the motor mount during a major crash would you suggest any other reinforcements other then the two carbon tubes so as to prevent the motor/mount from completely breaking free of the fuse. Or would one 1/8" stiff carbon tube directly in the middle interior center of the motor mount and up the middle center interior of the fuse be sufficient?

I was hoping "Z-foam" was more indestructible like that on the Fly Wheels XPV or the little Pico Z helicopter. Now I'll have to actually cut through the Sumo glue that is holding on the attached nose cone 'too securely[]' and just use double sided tape or your magnet modification.

Swift427

Should also mention that I've already removed the motor/mount from the broken piece of foam and glued the broken off Z-foam piece that is basically same size as mount as it was a clean foam break around perimeter of motor mount. This foam has a clean but jagged break so there is a lot of surface area for gluing. I already glued this piece back in place and it looks good as new. This Locktite Sumo glue like Gorilla glue makes the broken joint even stronger so it shouldn't ever break in the same place. That said I probably only need one ridgid carbon tube exactly up the interior middle of the fuse (directly beneath the motor) as any more could be overkill. Does anyone have any experience melting a hole in Z-foam using a hot metal rod. I'm thinking only the leading first inch of the rod needs to be hot and then pushed straight up the rear middle thicker part of the fuse directly under the motor and into the fuse for maybe even a total length of eight to ten inches to receive the carbon tube and glue. What do you think?

Because a Gorilla or Sumo glue joint is so strong do I even need any other reinforcing after I glue on the broken front portion of the plane? Because of the kind of clean but ragged way Z-foam breaks away it makes for a very strong joint when glued back together. What I need to do is put some tiny bubble packaging for cushioning in front of the Lipo battery so it doesn't slam so hard into the front of the plane (which resulted in the entire front of the plane breaking away) during the field dart crash. And, Yes I now see why the nose extension should only be held in place secure enough for flight, but will break away during impact.

Hagar69

Swift,
I just sharpen the carbon rod in one end with a hobby knife and push it into the foam while twisting, no need to melt channel or to glue. Also reinforce the motor mount area with extreme strapping tape to spread the load. And yes, the nose cone should be fairly loose, magnet or rubber band is good for this.

Hagar

Gryphon

Hi all,

I see that while the posts have been read, that they are hard to keep a track of.

The setup that Stryker_Viking is talking about, which is for Mr.Mugen is going to be drawing over 90A. We have found that it damages the Deans Ultra Connectors with time.
Castle Creations also urge better connectors at those amp draws.
The reason we went that far overboard with the bullet connectors was due to getting a volume discount on NEU 6mmconnectors. They are real nice.

So out of necessity we had to find better connectors. Furthermore the Lipo's are not cheap because they are nearly $200 each.
The Stryker is going to cost $800+ and a wreck due to a cheap connector is not an option.

I just thought that a clarification was needed and that setup is going to draw over 1320W due to his battery being better/larger than mine.
_______________

I miss my Strykers, When I find a new apt in this new town I'll have my stuff delivered. Hope there has been no damage to either of my bad boy Strykers.
Going to buy a second MEGA 16/25/2.

Have fun everyone,
Gryphon

critterhunter

I use Gorilla glue or even the slightly cheaper (but just as good) Elmers glue which acts the same (foams) as the Gorilla glue. Beyond that, if you have a specific question please ask. For the most part everything I have to say on building or repairing a Stryker is in my bullet proof thread. I wrote that so I would stop bothering everybody on here with my long winded responses. Hence my avatar, "MASTER OF THE OBVIOUS". Somegeek, thanks for posting that picture a while back.

critterhunter

By the way, think of the nose cone as a helping hand to avoid a dead on hit with the ground. Not only does it absorb some of the impact, and some momentum when it comes free, but it also helps the body to "push off" when the nose hits the ground, helping the front of the body to avoid a straight hit by deflecting it sideways a little.

Don't know if I mentioned it, but I prefer CA or epoxy for things like gluing the magnets to the canopy, etc....pretty much any time I'm not gluing to foam I use those, and when gluing something to foam I use Gorilla glue.

huckw

I'm going to make another post with my stryker question, but first I'll ask a forum question. Is there a way to search a thread? There is a box at the bottom of the page that leads me to believe I am searching the thread but it doesn't seem to work...for example, I just searched for "stryker" in this thread and got a whoppin 24 records...in 94 pages of posts I'm betting dollars to donuts there are more than 24 occurences of "stryker". Am I doing something wrong?

Second, is there a wiki or faq somewhere that has stryker info? The forum has a lot of info but (a) I'm not having luck searching it (b) it has a lot of redundant info and (c) it has a lot of info I'm not interested in.

Thanks in advance

huckw

Now my stryker question...I'm switching over my electronics to work with my DX6. I got a 25A, brushed esc, HS81MG servos and an extra AR6000 receiver. The esc came with some caps to connect to the motor...if I'm using the stock motor should I still add the caps?

The ESC seems to sit in the back most portion of the plane under the 3rd hatch/canopy piece. This 3rd piece of hatch/canopy seems to be mounted more permanently than the front two...is that ok? Is there a way to make the esc more accessible?

Thanks

Stryker_Viking

Hello huckw

Guess you have a Stryker-B, right?
Re. the caps: Not sure what you are asking here;
Did your esc come with a set of connectors?
If so, does the connectors on your stock motor match the esc?

Check out this thread, I think many of your questions will be answered there: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4790624/tm.htm

Keep us posted, and good luck

Stryker_Viking

maiden-crash

Hi guys,

Does anyone (Hi Gryphon) know if the stock stryker C motor can handle 4s? If so with what prop?

Thanks

Gryphon

maiden-crash,

Hello my friend I hope all is well with you.
I believe last time I checked the ESC is rated only for 2 or 3 cells. I think you should check again by going to the horizon hobby web site and look at the e-flight 25A ESC.

Motor should take it but you need to prop down to keep the amps at about the same 22-25A range. Don't worry you'll still make roughly 1/3 more power with the smaller prop. speed will be higher but it might be just 10% more.

If you are changing battery and ESC then you might want to hold off till you can get a better motor and then buy it all at the same time. It'll be cheaper in the long run and you'll end up with a faster plane.

Did you buy a wattmeter yet? You need it for times like this.

PM me some time and tell me how things are at home and school.

Later,

Gryphon

maxamus

Hi stryker fans

things will move a bit quicker for my build now but still trying to track down some batteries take a look at these let me know which one is suitable/better buy
http://www.westlondonmodels.com/prod...er-TP3300-3SX/

or

http://www.westlondonmodels.com/prod...r-TP3850-3SXL/

would ultimately like to order from across the pond but think i would be hit with import tax etc unless anybody comes up with something that i might not have looked into anyway the weather hasn't been so kind here for tearing across the skies due to showers and wind but next week has a beter out look

`Maxamus.............

Gryphon

maxamus,
The 3300 22C battery will get damaged unless you want to run a small prop, I would never even consider it.

The 3850 (148mm long) is border line to max out the motor and might get damaged with APC sport 7X6 prop. This gas prop draws less amps than electric props.
I damaged my 3800 22C before TP changed over to 3850 22C.

4500 and 5000 3S are the best ones. My buddies and I have had excellent results. Also another one of our friends here on RCuniverse with Stryker 16/25/2 and 3S-4500 has had excelled results. They are both 12mm longer than 3300&3850 and will C.G. great with wooden elevons. I fly my other Stryker with F-27C elevons 16/25/2 and 5000-3S nose heavy and it is fine. 3800 will C.G. on stock location with F-27C elevons.
F-27C elevons 16/25/2 and 4S has issues if using a powerful prop and rolls to side at real high speeds.

Your web site above listed everything except for 4500 3S, but it did show 4500 4S. You might want to consider calling them. I'm sure they can get it. Maybe I just missed it.

A 5000 even when older should deliver performance like a new 3850. Just don't crash too badly.

Stay away from 3400, 4600 and newer 3800, they are all too long. If the battery is longer than 160mm don’t buy it.

Good luck maxamus,

Gryphon

Mr. Mugen

So when you guys add all this CF do you's cut away for it? Or simply melt a line into it? Wondering which way would be strongest. Also do you's tie the ends together and epoxy them? I mean where the CF meets on the wing does the CF get joined somehow?

How about the size of the CF? Is the CF hollow or solid? How big are the elevons (dimensions please)?

I am holding off on starting this until I know for sure what has proven to work well. I have all the stuff now and the time to do it........just need some quick answers to this madness..hehe

Stryker_Viking

Hello Mr. Mugen,

I tried both methods, and this is what I found, of course - it's my personal experience and someone might have other opinions:

* Melting of the foam makes the foam hard and brittle in that particular area.
* Cutting out the foam seem to be better as it preserves the flexibility of the frame.

In my last build I tried what should be the strongest possible...
The CF-frame was built separately outside of the frame, one piece at the time...
All connection points were joined together with epoxy and CF thread before put into the frame...

I also found that polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) worked great for attaching the CF-frame to the foam as this type of glue will (if water is sprayed on the surfaces first) expand <3 time filling up all gaps with this lightweight and very strong foam that easily can be cut and sanded...

A couple of pictures taken during the process is attached, note that the picture is not showing the final frame, many pieces still missing...

I used CF-Tubes and Flat-bars on recommendation from Gryphon and others who already have tested this out...

If you want to go all the way, then you can have fun doing what I also did by adding a CF-skin on the whole profile... then you will have a bullet capable of crashing over and over again without falling apart...

Got to hit the bunk now, can't keep my eyes open...

Good luck

Stryker_Viking


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176211
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...hmentid=306516

critterhunter

I've found the exact oposite....Melting out the channels seems for me to provide more strength than cutting. I melt it almost deep enough and then use some sandpaper or a drimel to sand out the last little bit, making the channel smooth for good glue/tube contact. Remember too that the smaller you make the channel for a tighter fit the the carbon tube the less glue you'll need to save weight.

Stryker_Viking

critterhunter

I agree that the melted foam is stronger then the foam itself, no doubt, though my observation after removing CF tubes and spars from older builds is that the melted foam is brittle, and doesn't seem to have the same holding strength as the cut out alternative... probably because the absent of flexibility...???
This is however an unfair comparison since I used epoxy in the "melted build" and the gorilla glue in the "cut-out build"

Also-Gorilla glue (or any other Polyurethane) doesn't add any weight...

Fly happy, and fly high...

Stryker_Viking

critterhunter

Doesn't add weight? Then it doesn't exist in the universe. No, I know what you mean. The stuff is super light even foamed up into a huge ball. I know based on picking up discarded Gorilla Glue that wasn't used. Did you ever weight it? Still, it's the little things that add up so I still try to make the channels tight for less glue needed (never works out that way, though).

United Hobby now carries the KA450H I've been talking about for like $15. They also carry a smaller/light version for lighter builds for $13. Unless you are buying more than this from them I'd still get the motor from Dons RC because shipping will make it a wash price wise, and Don's a good guy.

By the way, Don is now carrying some very cheap lipos. A friend who uses the Hextronicks packs and these new ones from Don likes them more in certain respects (lighter/more compact), but they are only rated 15C versus the 20C for the Hextronicks. While on there take a look at his Sword and Pentium ESCs. I like them much better than Tower Pros. Check them out on www.DonsRC.com

And no, I don't get paid for the endorsement. He's just a local flyer and a decent guy to deal with.

Hagar69

Since we are talking about cutting channels for carbon tubes: I just got a router stand for my Dremel tool. I tried this on a 6 mm depron build I just did. I used a 5 mm ball shaped grinder on the Dremel, set the routing depth to about 5 mm and slid the router along a metal ruler. This makes a perfect clean cut without melting anything. Works very well on flat foam, might be a little harder on the Stryker.

For gluing carbon rods on the Stryker I simply use a hot glue gun and glue the ends plus a few spots along the rod. This way I can go flying 5 minutes after gluing
For light weight depron builds it is probably petter to use PU glue like the famous Gorilla glue.

Hagar

huckw

Yes Stryker-B.

I have the Great Planes Electrifly brushed 25A esc. It came with wires that have "tube" connectors on them...similar to stock stryker esc connectors but looks a little beefier. The stock motor wires terminate in a "rod" connector that slipped into the old tube...it might also work with the new tube (not sure the name of these connectors). But the ESC also came with capacitors and talked about adding these to your motor and wiring to reduce noise. Are these necessary?

I've looked over the bullet proof thread and didn't come across anything about the back-most, 3rd hatch/canopy piece and a way to make it less permanently mounted. I suspect I will be placing the esc and receiver under this 3rd hatch? If so I will need access to it every time I fly as the "binding" process of the DX6 requires I put a bind plug on the receiver prior to each flight.

These may be really silly questions that have already been answered but (as you may have read in another post of mine) I am having trouble searching a specific thread (I get questionable results).

critterhunter

If you want to make the back cover removable just use some magnets or velcro. I always glue mine with CA or epoxy since I don't need to access it unless there is some form of servo/receiver malfuction which rarely happens.

PS- Changed my avatar again. It was a close call between "Master Of The Obvious" and this one, since they both fit me perfectly. I took a picture of Barney holding a beer and did a little painting to make it look like he was flying a plane.

Hagar69

Huckw,
The stock motor already has capacitors, so there should be no need for more.

The DX6 and AR6000 does not require binding for each flight, you only bind once for each transmitter or whenever you want different fail safe settings. I have used a DX6 with my Stryker and my other planes for over a year.

I just tape that back cover on with clear packaging tape (1in wide), and replace the tape whenever I need to open it. Works well for me.

Cannot help you on thread searching.

The connectors are called bullet connectors.

Hagar

huckw

Are the caps on the stock motor INSIDE the motor can? I do not see any on the outside? Perhaps its not a stock motor (I bought the plane used so do not know the real history of it).

Ah...so I only have to bind the rx tx pair once? Only if I change rx or tx do I have to rebind? Even if I have 3 planes with 3 different rx and a single tx I bind each pair once and as long as I do not have more than one plane powered at a time there is no extra binding required. I guess I misunderstood.

Bullet connectors...got it!

Hagar69

The caps are outside the can but inside the black plastic cover that is normally glued to the motor mount. If you cannot see any caps outside the can you should probably solder on the ones that came with the ESC. Do not worry too much about the caps, since you have a DX-6 there is no risk of interference to your own system. And you will probably switch to brushless setup very soon anyways

Correct about binding, the biding process makes the RX respond to only the TX that is used during binding. The RX "remembers" this TX's unique ID until the next time it is bound.
In addition the binding process will store the current servo positions that are commanded by the TX during the binding process. These positions will be used as default or fail safe positions if you power on the RX before you power on the TX or if the RX looses the signal from the TX.

If you ever change your sub-trim values and want them to be used as default values by your RX, then you need to re-bind.

Hagar