Mach62

That flying wing is cool.

I think part of the reason I may have lost the link with the AR6000 is I did not have the ants at a 90 degree angle. They were at 180 degrees from each other - could that have shortened the range?

In any case, I will get the DX-7 with the AR6200 - it is only 3 grams heavier than AR6000 and if it even prevents one crash, then it is worth it. Also, the batt. on the DX-6 sucks, it is only good for maybe 2 hours of flying before having to recharge - 600 mah.

Mach62

Oh, look at this: http://www.spektrumrc.com/Articles/A...ArticleID=1725

This seems to be the cheapest way to get the second generation. It comes with the AR6200 as well. If you know you will never need more than 6 channels.

RCHubbub

Gryphon,

Thanks for the feedback. I have also read about everything I can on the subject and have come across persons having issues that they believe were with the Spektrum receivers including the 6000, 6100, and 7000. I've so far have come across only one person trying to range test the 6000, 6100, and 7000 and that was in the glider forum as 2.4GHz is attenuated by carbon fiber of which can make gliders with carbon fiber fuselages problematic considering the range they sometimes fly at. In his tests, the results which could be questioned due to the protocol, the 6000 DSM had a substantially longer range than the 6100 DSM2 and the 7000 DSM2 had the best range.

In trying to squeeze details out of Horizon, which are not very forthcoming because they don't know the answers or can't share them, I don't think the transmission protocol of DSM2 provides better range over DSM with how Horizon deploys it. From what I've been able to get out of them, DSM2 does allow for a longer range over DSM but when the DX7 is in DSM2 mode, its transmission output is reduced which negates some of the DSM2 range advantage but allows for much lower battery consumption.

I personally have one 7000, three 6000s, and one 6100e. So far I have not had a single issue with any of them, and I have about 85 flights with the 6000 receivers. I also have friends with many more flights on their 6000s without a single issue to report.

Most of the time it seems the 6000 receivers seem to be more susceptible to voltage brownouts from the BEC causing it to shut off. However, seems like you are describing potential interference issues in areas that are impacting both 72MHz and 2.4GHz. I’m not sure what could cause that. I think you also run a separate BEC in your planes which should help eliminate or reduce voltage drops to the receiver or overloading the ESC’s BEC. When you and your friends experienced 6000 issues was a separate BEC in use?

I’m not in love or married to the 6000s, but as I do have three of them, so I do like to try to understand what happened when someone thinks they crashed due to a Spektrum issue.

At the moment, Horizon has only owned up to issues with voltage drops and the issue with version 1 of the 6100 receiver.

With the release of the 6200, that will be my receiver to go to in the future when space in the plane allows it.

Gryphon

RCHubbub,

Thanks for the reply.

I really don't know much about them as stated before.

To answer your question...No, most of my flights were with 3S and no UBEC, but some of my 3S flights were with UBEC.
4S all has UBEC of course.
Both UBEC's Used at various times were Medusa Research 6.0V units. (old one was 2.0A, the latest one 3.5A UBEC 5.0V/6.0V selectable).
All future flights will be with the 3.5A UBEC. I do not trust Medusa 2.0A UBEC due to some note in last page of manual regarding voltage ripple and adding a $1 Shotky? diode...etc.

*** I don't want to unfairly convict the AR6000, but there is too much cloud of mystery around it to be worth me trying to solve it.
Our planes cost too much not to run 2.4GHz with 3000 ft range.
A normal 72MHz radio has a 1 mile range (5280 ft) unless low $ receiver is used for 1/2 mile range.

There is no way Horizon Hobby (MY FAVORITE COMPANY...even more than MEGA... and CC...and TP) will ever fess up to anything being wrong with DX6 or AR6000. But I have a strong suspicion that if there were no DX6's they would discontinue the AR6000's for the favor of the AR6100.

Keep in mind that one of the first things I wrote was that due to some 72MHz crashes I felt like a bitten dog, skittish and had lost all confidence in radios. Bad enough to ground myself waiting for a new radio.
My DX7 was a part of first batch of 600 sold...ordered weeks in advance.
I also saw 2 of my friend's with different motors and ESC brands in their Strykers each crash at multiple fields with no control over their planes using 2.4GHz setups.
None of those crashes were with DX7 and DSM2.
None of those crashes were from sending the plane too far....well maybe one of them but I had not counted that crash yet..I just remembered now...that was the most expensive total loss Stryker with AR6000...probably out of range ( DX7 I think)...was never found.

DX7 and AR7000 restored my full confidence. I pushed the envelope HARD with range and power lines and suspect areas and it came back in one piece.
I used the Co-pilot to keep the plane level and sent it way way way too far, I could not see more than a speck (farther than intended believe me due to high speed). It came back.

Good luck to you all.
p.s. I need to go read Mach62’s link above.
Gryphon

Gryphon

Mach62, what a find...way to go buddy.

It is even cheaper than the DX6, because it does not come with servo's. DX6 servos were too small any way.

It is DSM2 technology and comes with AR6200 Full range receiver...WHAT A DEAL>>>>> all we need to add is Hitec 81MG servos and we are ready for any Stryker speed.
$180 Due Early December, 2007
See link below.


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM6600


What a STEAL....did I say that already????????

Mach62, thanks for the info again and your link in the post above.

Gryphon

hyperdyne

My Feedback: (6)

Gryphon,

Thanks for your insights! I agree with you, I mistakenly bought the AR6000 and decided to try one out. I have the AR6100 on order and am still waiting for them. I guess I should of waited, but I didnt figure the AR6000 would be that much of an issue. Well after a destroyed plane I am now willing to put a better receiver in so this doesnt happen again.

Nothing worse in my mind than having a plane crash due to spotty equip or bad manufacturing. Were you able to fit the AR6200 in your stryker? I wasnt sure if I could fit the 2 receivers in the center cutout.

Gryphon

hyperdyne,


Scroll 1/4 way down on the link below to look at my 4th, 5th, and 6th pics.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._9/key_/tm.htm

The battery used is 160mm long; at the very back is a CC 125A ESC with 10 gauge wires.

The 7 Ch AR7000 receiver fits in between them.

The secondary receiver (see 5th pic) fits inside of the side wall, it is really very small and I flush mounted it inside of foam there with the smallest of little trenches made for its antennas. I covered the whole secondary receiver with regular 3M clear packing tape to keep it in place. I was curious as to possible signal loss due to tape, but works great at very long distances.

If a 7Ch receiver fits, along with monster battery and ESC, and additional Co-pilot computer, and Huge 3.5A UBEC (Other side wall on other side of battery not in those pics), then yes your 6ch receiver will fit.

Place your 6Ch receiver where your other one is, run wire on side wall to wherever you are going to flush mount the secondary unit. I wanted to keep second unit further away from ESC. Since I wanted it far from UBEC, I placed it on opposite side of battery.

Only a personal taste, but I don’t want to install receivers in front of battery. In my early days I noticed when ever my friends and I crashed a plane; the battery would go forward like a battering RAM and destroy everything in front of it.
With nothing in front of the battery I can keep the cost of a potential crash lower.
I feel with 72MHz, a good case could be made to install receiver in front to help further isolate it away from the onboard generated noise.
2.4 GHz is advertised as being above that frequency…right?
Anyway that is my personal preference, and due to C.G. (using bigger batteries) I see that many prefer to have the battery further back and receiver in front.
I think I would stick the 2.4GHz receiver on top of the wing first (flush mounted) before putting it in front of the battery…but that is just me.
Not all Strykers need to be built the same. And I’m no expert with 10-20 years of build experience either.
_________________________

RCHubbub,

I forgot to tell you that I have a good 7 ft of C.F. on this plane and my previous build had closer to 12ft with same radio install. There is a 9" C.F. tube running just below each side of battery compartment's floor starting right from behind the nose.
I know C.F. does no favors for radio signal.

AR7000 is great, so should be the AR6200.

Gryphon

cbr954rr

Looking to upgrade my stryker c. Here is what i have in mind

1. Mega 16/25/3
2. cc 80 amp speed control
3. thunder power v2 3s1p 2200mah batteries.
4. or 4s1p (suggestions needed)

What kind of speed can i expect out of this setup.



A friend of mine put a 4 cell in his stock stryker c. What a differance in speed and power! I was suprised the motor lasted, but when he came down the motor wasn't even hot.

Thanks

Bonefisher

CBR...

If you are going to stay 3S... you should consider the 16/25/2.... higher amps and the Castle can def handle...

If you are going 4S, then go 16/25/3... you can see my set-up one page back.... if you go 4S... you can expect longer flights (lower amps than the 16/25/2 on 3S) and right at 100MPH.....

I am sure others who know more will weigh in.. but this should get you started...

Gryphon

cbr954rr,

Everything Bonefisher said is correct.
But if 16/25/2 then we will set you up with a larger 3S, so same flight time using a battery that is 1/2" longer than 3300 cells. Fewer cells, but larger each. Think about roughly 4500mAH for 16/25/2, I run 3S-5000, 4S-3850.
______________________
Assuming MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV, and 80A ESC:

Since you are getting all of the good parts. You can dial in any power that you want.

On 3S you should be able to easily keep up with that 4S F-27C that your friend flies depending on his prop and battery...given your little battery above.
And your climbing will be good too.


With a better 3S you can leave his stock setup on 4S behind easily.

Keep in mind power comes from the battery. So battery size/weight will kinda/sorta dictate what your max power can be...This description is so crude that I bet it is freaking out many folks reading it...any way, it hold true enough.

Let me get back on track.

Battery cost ranges from the above mentioned $80 3S-2200 25C (on the lowest end of good power), all the way up to $155 4S-3300 25C.

Flight power EVO, or NEU energy 2500 cells should fall in between that price range (3S and 4S). They are available in 25C or 30C.
____________________________
I need to know some things:

1) What speed do you want in the 80MPH to 110+MPH range with stock profile Stryker? {115 to 125+MPH with 5S-6S}

2) Is your charger also good for 4S?

3) With any speed, do you want some ABNORMALLY HARD CLIMBING? Fun factor is above max speed for most even if they are not looking for it. Will that be bonus or you don't want that much? (Your friend WILL start pouting)....Sorry
____________________________
FYI: You can run (2) 3S-2200 packs in series to make 6S (in future) and run at 120+MPH easily. You already have the 6S ESC and a motor that can handle it easily. 6S, 60A all day.
I have not heard of anyone running larger 3300 packs as 6S in Stryker. But it can be done.
Above 110 to 115MPH, wooden elevons are mandatory.

If you are not going to double up batteries into 6S, then I would much rather see you get as close to 3300 25C cells as possible. 3S or 4S either way.
If weight of 4S-3300 freaks you out...don't worry it will fly fine like my brother's with stock elevons. Few other people have run that setup. You can have decent run time while just staying in the throttle at some real high speed.
Use some part throttle and you will get Very good run times. Battery temp will not be an issue with hard runs.
If really worried about weight, then go with 2500 cells.

See pics of the beautiful Yellow Stryker 1 or 2 pages back....with same setup as you and my brother. 4S-3300 fits.
I run 5S-3300 and 4S-3850 and 3S-5000 for different motor on Stryker.

This last $75 battery price difference will allow you to have almost double the power. In real world that will roughly be up to about extra 20-25MPH difference and with HUGE climbing that will take your breath away, and the ability to fly longer, along with your battery lasting more cycles.
Why can this last $75 give you so much more % power?, because your MOTOR and ESC selection is great and proven and has breathing room left...lots and lots of it.
Motor has been tested and ran at well above 60A, just fine....by multiple people.

So tell us about your desired speed, climbing, and charger. Also about revised ideas regarding the battery….one last battery to think about is the 5S-2500 25C (or 30C) for some wow factor if your charger is good for 5S.

I asked my brother to cycle my new 5S-3300 25C on his new Stryker right after his maiden…instead of being happy he had 4 times the power of F-27C with his 4S-3300 16/25/3…all he kept saying was why doesn’t my 4S go as fast and climb as hard….I unintentionally ruined his day a little.

**Bigger battery = more fun…with each step up in battery size; a little faster landing and a little longer slide. After a few flights you can never go back….

***What are you running for a radio? 72MHz or 2.4GHz.

Post or PM me with your answers please.

Gryphon

Gryphon

COMBAT VERSION of MEGA 16/25/3 called 16/25/3C

*** Everyone, I've been forgetting to mention this There is a different version of 16/25/3 1700 motor, it is called COMBAT version.

It is supposed to cost $5 more and instead of 1/8" (3.2mm shaft) it has 5mm output shaft...good luck bending that one.

What is the shaft's cross sectional area and/or volume difference compared to 16/25/3?... 2.44 times? WOW.

Area= pi*radius^2=pi/4 * diameter^2
Do the ratio and the two pi/4 cancel.
5^2/3.2^2=2.441 : 1 2.44 times more metal on the output shaft (I think….at 5 a.m.)
For volume length cancels out too, so same 2.44 times more metal.

Motor is identical other wise and performs the same.

Most dealers are usually out of stock on this or do not carry them, but this great store has them in stock.

http://www.newcreations-rc.com/Produ...n16/25/3COMBAT

They have screwed up with the pricing I believe, because they are selling this motor for the same $95, not $5 more.
I've bought two MEGA motors from them in the past...Owner is a great guy. They take care of orders fast.

I think he said that he will sell us a 16/25/2 (or/3) and CC80 for $215. Said that a few months ago. May be better to get him on phone if needed.

Depending on prop adapter thickness on prop side: Master airscrew props cannot be drilled out that far. APC Sport and Pylon props do fine, so do the Graupner CAM props (they come with a large hole already).

You may want to ask the store to mount a prop of your spec in correct direction (facing motor) to make sure all is well and that there is no surprises with an extra bulky prop adapter as condition of sale (if possible). APC Pylon 6.5" or bigger should be fine as I recall. I think I ran a washer to have the twisted part of a smaller APC E prop clear the back plate of adapter once to take some wattmeter/RPM readings. Diameter of the back plate part of adapter(motor side) was just barely too much.

As voltage goes up, to keep the Amps the same, the prop diameter needs to be reduced some.
16/25/3 on 6S is normally run on 6� props, but I have heard of 6.5� Pylon props with 2200 cells(burst range?).
So below 6S, there are a huge selection of APC Sport and APC Pylon props that will fit even bulky adapters. Besides the Graupner CAM props.
16/25/3 Combat (16/25/3 C) should be a great motor.

I remember about this motor once every six months...not sure if I ever posted about it. I mentioned it to 2 people so far, one guy was told last week in a PM, he was going to jump on it last I heard.

Have fun,

Gryphon

Mach62

Gryphon or anybody else with Motocalc:

Can you run the following motor through with different apc(e) props on 4S 2200 mah 25C-30C to see how it could be propped for about 900 watts?

http://www.megamotorusa.com/Brushless/ACn16-17-2.htm

I am thinking about starting with a 4.75x4.75 and working up from there but I would like to get a ballpark figure before I go ahead with the project. (It is project to push the Hobby Lobby Lynx to the fastest speed ever attained by this airframe - hoping for 160 mph min). There is a contest going on and I want to beat top score which is currently 139.6 mph which was attained on 514 watts. Thanks.

Gryphon

Mach62,


Due to limited number of quality batteries in MOTOCALC, I picked Hyperion LVX series 4S-2500 20C.
I'm sure that it still computes too low a voltage, but the amps usually read too high, so call it even.

On bigger props, I always change prop constants to make results read higher to be closer to real, but on these smaller props, I guess APC constants are not so far off....at least we (you and I) hope.

Better have a 70A ESC at min, and YES you have the right prop 950W in, 870W out, not much wasted at all considering everything. And the motor should not get hot if it gets some air flow compared to none. I can't remember what the plane looks like right now, I know I've seen it before.

Either way, by being in the battery's burst range, you better go for the 2200 30C, 2500 25C, or 2500 30C.
Stay away from 2200 25C unless you will give it limited use.

If you want to push the motor to max, you may need to prop in the high 80's to 90A but what is the burst of your ESC?



******************
You are going to crush that record....no challenge for you with that motor. Start by measuring how far you can gut it and then stuff all the battery capacity in there that you can.
******************



I suggest that you also pick up 4.7X4.5 and 4.5X4.5, no reason to go above 5X5. So those 4 props will be plenty to characterize the motor in the power and speed Range that you want.

Do you know the specs of the power setup used to make that speed run for the standing record? If you send it to me along with a link for the plane (wing specs, pic)...I'll work on it for you.


Have fun,

Gryphon

Mach62

Thanks for your hard work Gryphon:

His power specs are as follows: apc 4.1x4.1, phoenix 35 controller, 3 hs 55 servos, and Thunderpower 4s 2200 wxtreme v2 running DON's Wicked 2700kv motor (25 bucks). He said he was drawing 39 amps static.

Here is the vid (as you can see, he is coming out of a dive and he also cut the wings and streamlined the bottom of the fuse):
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766809

I would like to beat it on the level with the FMA Co-Pilot for stability

Here are the plane specs: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/lynx.htm

Gryphon

Mach62,


I'm done.....results will be sent in a PM shortly....MUHAHAHAHAHAHA.


I have to say that you have become VERY good with your power combinations....lucky are your buddies who have you on their speed dial.

Your setup is Ideal. Let's see how pissed off we can get your battery....LOL..



Gryphon

cbr954rr

[quote]ORIGINAL: Gryphon

cbr954rr,

Everything Bonefisher said is correct.
But if 16/25/2 then we will set you up with a larger 3S, so same flight time using a battery that is 1/2" longer than 3300 cells. Fewer cells, but larger each. Think about roughly 4500mAH for 16/25/2, I run 3S-5000, 4S-3850.
______________________
Assuming MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV, and 80A ESC:

Since you are getting all of the good parts. You can dial in any power that you want.

On 3S you should be able to easily keep up with that 4S F-27C that your friend flies depending on his prop and battery...given your little battery above.
And your climbing will be good too.


With a better 3S you can leave his stock setup on 4S behind easily.

Keep in mind power comes from the battery. So battery size/weight will kinda/sorta dictate what your max power can be...This description is so crude that I bet it is freaking out many folks reading it...any way, it hold true enough.

Let me get back on track.

Battery cost ranges from the above mentioned $80 3S-2200 25C (on the lowest end of good power), all the way up to $155 4S-3300 25C.

Flight power EVO, or NEU energy 2500 cells should fall in between that price range (3S and 4S). They are available in 25C or 30C.
____________________________
I need to know some things:

1) What speed do you want in the 80MPH to 110+MPH range with stock profile Stryker? {115 to 125+MPH with 5S-6S}

2) Is your charger also good for 4S?

3) With any speed, do you want some ABNORMALLY HARD CLIMBING? Fun factor is above max speed for most even if they are not looking for it. Will that be bonus or you don't want that much? (Your friend WILL start pouting)....Sorry
____________________________
FYI: You can run (2) 3S-2200 packs in series to make 6S (in future) and run at 120+MPH easily. You already have the 6S ESC and a motor that can handle it easily. 6S, 60A all day.
I have not heard of anyone running larger 3300 packs as 6S in Stryker. But it can be done.
Above 110 to 115MPH, wooden elevons are mandatory.

If you are not going to double up batteries into 6S, then I would much rather see you get as close to 3300 25C cells as possible. 3S or 4S either way.
If weight of 4S-3300 freaks you out...don't worry it will fly fine like my brother's with stock elevons. Few other people have run that setup. You can have decent run time while just staying in the throttle at some real high speed.
Use some part throttle and you will get Very good run times. Battery temp will not be an issue with hard runs.
If really worried about weight, then go with 2500 cells.

See pics of the beautiful Yellow Stryker 1 or 2 pages back....with same setup as you and my brother. 4S-3300 fits.
I run 5S-3300 and 4S-3850 and 3S-5000 for different motor on Stryker.

This last $75 battery price difference will allow you to have almost double the power. In real world that will roughly be up to about extra 20-25MPH difference and with HUGE climbing that will take your breath away, and the ability to fly longer, along with your battery lasting more cycles.
Why can this last $75 give you so much more % power?, because your MOTOR and ESC selection is great and proven and has breathing room left...lots and lots of it.
Motor has been tested and ran at well above 60A, just fine....by multiple people.

So tell us about your desired speed, climbing, and charger. Also about revised ideas regarding the battery….one last battery to think about is the 5S-2500 25C (or 30C) for some wow factor if your charger is good for 5S.

I asked my brother to cycle my new 5S-3300 25C on his new Stryker right after his maiden…instead of being happy he had 4 times the power of F-27C with his 4S-3300 16/25/3…all he kept saying was why doesn’t my 4S go as fast and climb as hard….I unintentionally ruined his day a little.

**Bigger battery = more fun…with each step up in battery size; a little faster landing and a little longer slide. After a few flights you can never go back….

***What are you running for a radio? 72MHz or 2.4GHz.

Post or PM me with your answers please.

Gryphon
[/quote






1. I would like to be in the 100mph range with good vertical.

2. My charger does up to 5 cells and 5 amps

3. My radio is a 72 mhz

4. I am open to any battery suggestions as i only have one at this time and need to buy a couple more. I think 4 cell 3300-3850 will be enough for now and maybe upgrade at $$ permits.


Thanks

Gryphon

cbr954rr,

Well, you can do it two different ways using MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV and 80A ESC, 60A ESC at minimum.

___________
One of the two options is 4S:
NEU 4S-3300 30C $150, APC sport 7X6 or close to it.
http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/30...Batteries.html

TP 4S-3300 25C $155
http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/extreme-V2.html

NEU 4S-3200 25C $142
http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/25...Batteries.html

Flight Power 4S-3200 30C $160 longest of 3
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWB7&P=7
______________
Or
Another option is 5S-2500:
NEU 5S-2500 30C $140 Aeronaut 6X5 prop or close to it. Higher RPM with more noise. Noise is concern for some, but a bonus for others.
http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/30...Batteries.html


Flight Power 5S-2500 25C $150 longer than NEU
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRVZ9&P=7
_________________________________
5S batteries are shorter in general, but thicker and/or wider.
In General 5S-2500 is barely lighter than the 4S-3300…Under 1 O.Z. weight difference.
About same everything with above combinations. Within 2% speed, 5% climbing, 7% run time.
5S will have barely more efficient motor, 4S’s Larger prop will have little better efficiency, Over all 5S wins out…barely. 4S will climb little harder.
Right now the motor on 5S would be getting pushed less, than on above 4S setup (4S still has plenty of room for even more power, speed).
If you push that 5S harder….Watch out…BIGGER POWER.
Above setups is running higher amps on 4S, but higher voltage on 5S…for near same speed and run time. Both closer to 105MPH speed range.
**Make sure to buy (1) adapter for your battery’s balance lead to match your balancer.

E-flight 60A ESC good for 6s, no need for UBEC, $85
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLA1060

Hyperion 80A ESC good for 6S, no need for UBEC, $138
http://www.allerc.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=2735

CC 80A ESC, good for 6S, but NEEDS UBEC (and disabling the center red wire from ESC wire to receiver).
http://www.newcreations-rc.com/Produ...e=G&catlevel=2 $140
http://www.dynamoelectrics.com/detail.aspx?ID=706 $136 Might take longer.
**But you should be able to get this ESC for $120 when ordering with motor as COMBO from either location, let me know if having trouble with that.

16/25/3 C Combat version 5mm shaft or regular 16/25/3 3.2mm shaft? Either one $95

***Some people have had problems with 72MHz and had to chase down the issues. I gave up and moved to 2.4GHz and my issues stopped. It has given some people grief. You may want to copy install locations of the guys using 72MHz.

Do not buy DX6 now, in 4 weeks DX6I will be sold for $180 versus $200, but no servos. DX6 servos are too small to use any way, so no loss, and NO BUGS. 50% longer range too. Available early Dec. Order now if interested.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM6600

Don’t forget to buy prop adapter, props, and UBEC if needed, battery, ESC, motor connectors.
I presume you already have servos. If you buy Hitec 81MG servos, you need 3� or 6� extensions depending on location of receiver.


Tell me what you think.
Gryphon

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Gryphon, Or is it now Lord Gryphon?
Just passing through and caught some of the posts on the DX6.

Something I learned recently on them. If you change a setting on your tx, like endpoint adjustment, you have to rebind the rx to the tx. Otherwise when you plug in the pack the next time, the servo that was changed will go bonkers. Cost me 2 retract servo gear sets before I found info that quite a few fliers where getting gear collapse when they plugged in their pack.

Seems the rx is trying to set both the old and new setting at the same time when it's connecting to the tx signal when you first plug in the pack.

Ain't pretty.[:@]

Ok, Carry on.

Gryphon

Glacier Girl,


It is just Gryphon. In my book, you are the only true LORD of the Strykers.

As always I try and pass on the knowledge that you gave me, along with anything that I learned after that.

Thank you for bringing me into the DARK side using a MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV as my first brushless while others were saying BP-21 or MEGA 16/15/4.

That extra $15 in the early days (compared to the smaller MEGA) saved me $80 in my view....given my needs of course.


I bet you have some cool links and info on Various Stryker builds...If you get a chance please share some next time you drop by.


Gryphon

XH2OMANN

Greetings everyone!!!

It has been a long time since I have posted. I have been busy with ( sad but true) other airplanes. But I have hit a snag with a scratch built foamie flying wing. I am sure somone in here may be able to help. I have it set up exactly like my stryker. The servos are pluged up the same way and radio is set the same way as stryker. The only thing different is that I used a United Hobbies Combo. esc and motor combo, and a Berg 4ch. rx instead of futaba rx. I just cant get the control surfaces to work right. If the elevator control is right then the aelerons are wrong. If the aelerons are right then the elevator is wrong. Any ideas????
Thanks
Jim

Maine_Flyer

Hey GG .. Just strolling thru myself and caught your post.. interesting.. I just had to change out an aileron servo in my 27% extra and the set is pretty new.. using DX7 and did bind when I was complete in setup.. but don't believe I did a binding after I setup spoilerons and flaperons.. but anyhow Just did the bind again after the change out and we'll see what happens.. the servo didn't break teeth, just lost it's center and got real wishy washy..

good to see you still kicking around along with the rest of the stryker dudes..

rock forth

Maine_Flyer

XH20, make sure the right side elevon is in the aileron TX channel (which ever that is on a berg) left side in the elevator channel.. make sure the servos are opposing each other with both servo heads either fore or aft but servos are opposing with both servo's arms facing center or both facing outside.. you may have to reverse a channel on the tx as well..

rock on

Gryphon

Maine_Flyer, XH2OMANN,

I may be wrong, but at least for JR and Spektrum, the left Servo gets plugged into Aileron ch and Transmitter set on Delta, besides reversing servo directions in transmitter as very last step.

I don't know about Futaba setups....


Gryphon

XH2OMANN

Wow you hit it right on the head. I would have never thought that would have made a difference. I switched the two servos and all is correct. I dont understand what difference it makes but it worked. Thanks a heap!!!!!! You rock dude. This thread rocks!!! always has always will!!!

Jim

DepronJet

2.4G works on line of sight!
even flying behind a tree at 500 feet could make it lock out,
add this with the re-boot if the voltage drops below the threshold makes me think twice about using it,
but then again.. i said the same thing about Lipos hahaha!

Ray