F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: Gryphon
KegRaider. Welcome to the thread.
Do you fly R/C/ planes?
If not consider starting with the likes of Aerobird 3 from hobby zone then get a Stryker for your 2nd bird. With your friend’s guidance that is easily do-able.
http://www.hobbyzone.com/rc_planes_h...aerobird_3.htm
Brazman can tell you all about FMA Co-pilot.
KegRaider. DARK SIDE is calling you. What does that mean? Just ask Brazman.
Thank you both for your posts.
Gryphon
KegRaider. Welcome to the thread.
Do you fly R/C/ planes?
If not consider starting with the likes of Aerobird 3 from hobby zone then get a Stryker for your 2nd bird. With your friend’s guidance that is easily do-able.
http://www.hobbyzone.com/rc_planes_h...aerobird_3.htm
Brazman can tell you all about FMA Co-pilot.
KegRaider. DARK SIDE is calling you. What does that mean? Just ask Brazman.
Thank you both for your posts.
Gryphon
I have known Brazman for about 18 years now, and I regret to say, that most of his obsessions quickly become adopted by myself. He got me into flying about 18 months ago, and I started on a deltawing called MugiEVO. It's just a coroflute model, but still fun. 2nd bird was the Thunder Tiger 'Velocity', and 3rd bird too, since i snapped the wings off the first Velocity from doing a stupid fullspeed pass, going to full vertical I only wish I had a video on that one! My collection has grown to 9 airframes currently, but still class myself as a novice
I have often wanted to get a stryker, as they looks so gracious in the sky at whatever speed. Although, Brazman's has you looking in fear, thinking that there's a swarm of angry mosquitoes coming for you! Hopefully one day soon, I'll embark on the overclocked stryker route, and do Brazman proud
I'll try and get some working video tomorrow, if the mrs lets me go and play again
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: iamman711
thanks Stryker Viking,
What happened to your friend's plane did he even have the guts to maiden it.. if so, what was the result? My big question to you is about nose-heavy planes. I heard that if you fly nose heavy its no problem. if you fly tail heavy, you fly once.
So given that my Stryker is nose heavy (assuming that carving out the foam in certain places did not mess up the center of gravity of the plane at the COG dimples), will this present a problem or what?
I might remove the duck tape because i am positive that it adds a lot of unnecessary weight to my plane, although removal probably won't affect medial balance (nose-tail heaviness). Do you think the clear transparent duck tape i covered the rest of my plane with adds too much weight as well? it is the duck brand packaging tape and i have it all over the place on my Stryker. (Only a single layer) If I remove the heavier duct tape along the middle of my Styker, should I replace it with clear transparent packaging tape like the rest of my plane or can i use strapping tape which is heavier. I just wanted to make my Stryker strong in case i crash it hence the duct tape.
Last question is about the 5.5 X 5.5 prop. So it is shorter than the stock 6 X 4 prop but has greater pitch. How does the 5.5 X 5.5 prop compare to a 6 X 5.5 prop? Just curious, and do you think i can upgrade to 6 X 5.5 with no problem.
*just for clarification as it gets confusing:
duck tape = clear packaging tape by duck brand, which i used everywhere on my plane except where I used duct tape
duct tape = colorful, heavier duty tape also by duck brand, which i placed on middle of plane on its underside.
...
Thank you everyone.
ORIGINAL: Stryker_Viking
I helped a guy the other week at the field with a similar setup as yours, this is what I had to do to make his Stryker balance correctly:
* Removed all duct tape in front of COG-dimples
* Replaced the frontwheel with a Light-Weight alternative that I had laying around
* Replaced his stock 6x4 prop to a 5.5 x 5.5
He later used spray paint to the areas where the very heavy duct tape had been...
Good luck
Stryker Viking
I helped a guy the other week at the field with a similar setup as yours, this is what I had to do to make his Stryker balance correctly:
* Removed all duct tape in front of COG-dimples
* Replaced the frontwheel with a Light-Weight alternative that I had laying around
* Replaced his stock 6x4 prop to a 5.5 x 5.5
He later used spray paint to the areas where the very heavy duct tape had been...
Good luck
Stryker Viking
What happened to your friend's plane did he even have the guts to maiden it.. if so, what was the result? My big question to you is about nose-heavy planes. I heard that if you fly nose heavy its no problem. if you fly tail heavy, you fly once.
So given that my Stryker is nose heavy (assuming that carving out the foam in certain places did not mess up the center of gravity of the plane at the COG dimples), will this present a problem or what?
I might remove the duck tape because i am positive that it adds a lot of unnecessary weight to my plane, although removal probably won't affect medial balance (nose-tail heaviness). Do you think the clear transparent duck tape i covered the rest of my plane with adds too much weight as well? it is the duck brand packaging tape and i have it all over the place on my Stryker. (Only a single layer) If I remove the heavier duct tape along the middle of my Styker, should I replace it with clear transparent packaging tape like the rest of my plane or can i use strapping tape which is heavier. I just wanted to make my Stryker strong in case i crash it hence the duct tape.
Last question is about the 5.5 X 5.5 prop. So it is shorter than the stock 6 X 4 prop but has greater pitch. How does the 5.5 X 5.5 prop compare to a 6 X 5.5 prop? Just curious, and do you think i can upgrade to 6 X 5.5 with no problem.
*just for clarification as it gets confusing:
duck tape = clear packaging tape by duck brand, which i used everywhere on my plane except where I used duct tape
duct tape = colorful, heavier duty tape also by duck brand, which i placed on middle of plane on its underside.
...
Thank you everyone.
You are right on the spot regarding nose-heavy vs. tail-heavy.
A tail-heavy plane will behave like a wild bronco, been there/done that once - and that's enough.
Nose heavy is ok inder the assumption that you can launch the plane safely (I use a bungee launcher)
My Strykers are always nose-heavy, about 0.5-1.0"... this also fit better to my flying style with much less deflection on the control surfaces then most of you guys are using, I like the plane to fly more jet-like with wider turns that doesn't take down the airspeed...
Regarding your tape question:
We are a couple of guys who at least in the beginning covered the whole airframe with strapping tape to enhance rigity, originally 3M-Extreme was used but I have found that it's bi-directional propertys add unneccesary weight and have shifted to uni directional strapping tape used in a more intelligent way and only where needed, saves a lot of weight...
I wouldn't change anything if I was you, perhaps investigate lighter materials for next build...
5.5 X 5.5 prop vs. 6 x 4 prop: In this case we achieved higher rpm, but the purpose was to get ground clearance...
Upgrade to 6 X 5.5 without problem: I am not sure what motor and battery-ESC combination you are using, would doubt if it's C-stock version, perhaps someone else know more about that motor...
Cheers
Stryker_Viking
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: iamman711
Stryker Viking, maybe if you modified your Zagi with flaps you could bring it down easy... just a thought.
Btw, how do you make those digital backdrops in your uploaded pictures, not this most recent one but in the past. Do you just use Adobe photoshop?
Stryker Viking, maybe if you modified your Zagi with flaps you could bring it down easy... just a thought.
Btw, how do you make those digital backdrops in your uploaded pictures, not this most recent one but in the past. Do you just use Adobe photoshop?
The cause behind the difficulties to get the plane down are related to the extreme lift the wind generated that day.
A couple of questions on your issues with your control throws:
* Are the servos identical?
* Did you reset the midpoint on the servos before attaching the servo arms?
Foam repair: I am always filling my gaps and holes with Polyurethane (Gorilla) glue, spraying water on the area before and after applying the glue, masking off surroundings, checking back after 1-3 hours to trim off the now expanded excessive foam. Works great, is very strong and light.
Yup, Photoshop 7
Styker_Viking
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
thanks Stefano,
I'm glad you reminded me about using the gorilla glue to patch up the gap/hole. The gap is right behind the nose landing gear aluminum pole which I want to keep unglued to the foam. Can you suggest a way for me to fill the gap with gorilla glue while keeping my nose gear in place and not letting the nose gear get glued in as well. (I know i can use the gorilla with the nose gear removed, but then i will have to dig another hole to slide the landing gear in again).This is so that my removable landing gear can stay removable.
I didn't realize nose heavy makes Stryker more jet like. That's what i observed in my maiden flights indeed. My bird takes off like a jet, requiring long runway but it looks good/scale in my opinion.
I'm glad you reminded me about using the gorilla glue to patch up the gap/hole. The gap is right behind the nose landing gear aluminum pole which I want to keep unglued to the foam. Can you suggest a way for me to fill the gap with gorilla glue while keeping my nose gear in place and not letting the nose gear get glued in as well. (I know i can use the gorilla with the nose gear removed, but then i will have to dig another hole to slide the landing gear in again).This is so that my removable landing gear can stay removable.
I didn't realize nose heavy makes Stryker more jet like. That's what i observed in my maiden flights indeed. My bird takes off like a jet, requiring long runway but it looks good/scale in my opinion.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: iamman711
thanks Stefan,
I'm glad you reminded me about using the gorilla glue to patch up the gap/hole. The gap is right behind the nose landing gear aluminum pole which I want to keep unglued to the foam. Can you suggest a way for me to fill the gap with gorilla glue while keeping my nose gear in place and not letting the nose gear get glued in as well. (I know i can use the gorilla with the nose gear removed, but then i will have to dig another hole to slide the landing gear in again).This is so that my removable landing gear can stay removable.
I didn't realize nose heavy makes Stryker more jet like. That's what i observed in my maiden flights indeed. My bird takes off like a jet, requiring long runway but it looks good/scale in my opinion.
thanks Stefan,
I'm glad you reminded me about using the gorilla glue to patch up the gap/hole. The gap is right behind the nose landing gear aluminum pole which I want to keep unglued to the foam. Can you suggest a way for me to fill the gap with gorilla glue while keeping my nose gear in place and not letting the nose gear get glued in as well. (I know i can use the gorilla with the nose gear removed, but then i will have to dig another hole to slide the landing gear in again).This is so that my removable landing gear can stay removable.
I didn't realize nose heavy makes Stryker more jet like. That's what i observed in my maiden flights indeed. My bird takes off like a jet, requiring long runway but it looks good/scale in my opinion.
Well, I can imagine a couple of alternatives based of what you say
* Remove the landing gear -> foam-fill the hole -> re-cut the foam and install landing gear
or
** Wrap the mounting box of the landing gear with plastic wrap or dipped in melted candle wax -> repeat * above
or
*** Simply glue it in. You can always recover the gear and cut off the foam
I would also add a couple of CA stringers to the mounting box so to distribute the loads over a greater area. An inch ot two can make wonders.
Are you using the option with dual rate selected from the transmitter as I do? The only time I use the high rate is during landings...
Stryker_Viking
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
thats an idea id like to try but please excuse my ingnorance, i dont know what ca stringers are. I googled it to no avail.
I think gorilla glue will not stick to metal if diluted enough with water, and is not compressed to form a bond. We'll see how it goes. Stay tuned.
I think gorilla glue will not stick to metal if diluted enough with water, and is not compressed to form a bond. We'll see how it goes. Stay tuned.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Good Day Gents!!
Went down to the beach with my Stryker this weekend....and of course, I got some AMAZING video! This was off the coast of North Carolina just south of Nags Head. Flew three batteries with a video flight on number two. Then on the last flight, I was making the landing approach over the water because of the wind direction. To make sure I cleared the water I gave a last burst but wind pushed me down early so the spinning prop kicked some sand up and into the motor. Now the prop won't turn.
So, how do I get sand out of an Eflite 2700 motor?? Water? WD40?? Trashcan??
A lot of the 11 minute video is bumpy from the wind but I am seeing parts I can cut out for some decent ocean and beach flying.
I only seem to get time to check the thread every 5 or 6 pages now but looking back at the talk of clear duck tape. That was all I could find when taping up an old stryker frame to turn into a motorless slope glider on the dunes at Nags Head. (too windy to fly...was too light I think)
Anyway, I carried the planes around in giant 55gal trash bags to protect from the wind. The heat and humidity built up in the bags. The duck/duct tape became very tacky and started pulling up and coming off. The extreme tape did not have this problem. So be careful if using clear, or any, duct tape on your birds. I sure won't again with Summer fast approaching. Extreme Packaging tape only for me!!
Allen
Went down to the beach with my Stryker this weekend....and of course, I got some AMAZING video! This was off the coast of North Carolina just south of Nags Head. Flew three batteries with a video flight on number two. Then on the last flight, I was making the landing approach over the water because of the wind direction. To make sure I cleared the water I gave a last burst but wind pushed me down early so the spinning prop kicked some sand up and into the motor. Now the prop won't turn.
So, how do I get sand out of an Eflite 2700 motor?? Water? WD40?? Trashcan??
A lot of the 11 minute video is bumpy from the wind but I am seeing parts I can cut out for some decent ocean and beach flying.
I only seem to get time to check the thread every 5 or 6 pages now but looking back at the talk of clear duck tape. That was all I could find when taping up an old stryker frame to turn into a motorless slope glider on the dunes at Nags Head. (too windy to fly...was too light I think)
Anyway, I carried the planes around in giant 55gal trash bags to protect from the wind. The heat and humidity built up in the bags. The duck/duct tape became very tacky and started pulling up and coming off. The extreme tape did not have this problem. So be careful if using clear, or any, duct tape on your birds. I sure won't again with Summer fast approaching. Extreme Packaging tape only for me!!
Allen
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Have used Duck's crystal clear tape on acft and have had no problem from 32 - 110 degrees F.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
I don't remember the brand of this but thought it had a picture of a duck on the label. Wonder if it was the humidity inside the sealed black trash bag that made the difference. All I know is I had both planes in the same bag and the Xtape was fine and the duct tape was slimy and shifting around. Just wanted to pass on my experience.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
AeroRecon,
Try calling Horizon to see if they can give you tips.
Also post on this forum:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_123/tt.htm
If you have to send it in, it might be 3-4 weeks before you see it again.
In case that happens you might consider a second motor since you fly so much.
Either an identical one or a different one.
If different, then let us know.
_____________________
I'm sure inside of the black bag the temps soared, especially with direct sunlight.
Although I have not had a build with DUCK brand tape, I'm guessing that they may have more than 1 type of tape. The one I saw at the store was more like regular packing tape, if so I'm sure same thing would have happened to 3M packing tape.
Of course strapping tape has additional strength and WEIGHT too.
I love 3M Extreme tape, but on a future light weight build, I'm looking forward to trying out the clear DUCK tape...at least on top of plane.
Later,
Gryphon
Try calling Horizon to see if they can give you tips.
Also post on this forum:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_123/tt.htm
If you have to send it in, it might be 3-4 weeks before you see it again.
In case that happens you might consider a second motor since you fly so much.
Either an identical one or a different one.
If different, then let us know.
_____________________
I'm sure inside of the black bag the temps soared, especially with direct sunlight.
Although I have not had a build with DUCK brand tape, I'm guessing that they may have more than 1 type of tape. The one I saw at the store was more like regular packing tape, if so I'm sure same thing would have happened to 3M packing tape.
Of course strapping tape has additional strength and WEIGHT too.
I love 3M Extreme tape, but on a future light weight build, I'm looking forward to trying out the clear DUCK tape...at least on top of plane.
Later,
Gryphon
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Just curious gents, how would a E-flite 2700kv motor work on my 40amp eflite ESC and stock battery, with 6-5.5 prop? (I need to go over Gryphs calculations again) <Ive gotten alot better on my bird, 15 long flights with no crashes, just need to fix a stripped -81 gear set now.>
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
I have a call in to HH tech support. They took my name and number to call back. I fear the worst. []
I have attached some stills from the video. May get to do some editing on that tonight.
Here is where this video was shot on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, just south of Nags Head.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=e...04957&t=h&z=18
Allen
(That's me and my birdie in the pic)
I have attached some stills from the video. May get to do some editing on that tonight.
Here is where this video was shot on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, just south of Nags Head.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=e...04957&t=h&z=18
Allen
(That's me and my birdie in the pic)
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Disregard about the E-flite, I'm considering the "Don's Wicked "motor instead. Those are great pics
Aero, I used to live at Ft. Bragg,NC a few years ago and would go to that beach you have pictured.
Aero, I used to live at Ft. Bragg,NC a few years ago and would go to that beach you have pictured.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
AeroRecon, how did you paint your Stryker. Can you post a close up sometime. It looks unique and i wanted to know how you did it, but i also cant see it very well.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
iamman711,
It's covered with eXtreme Packing tape....the brand from Staples, not sure if 3M but the fiber is crossed. I use it all over. Once in places before painting and then all over after for various reasons. Usually to try different mounting positions for my video pod.
The paint is one of the brand names off the shelf at Lowes. Kind of a flourescent lime green. Did not come out as thick as I wanted. That is the top-most coat you see. I also shot it first all over the bottom with Green Krylon which has a great look to it. After taping and removing and taping and removing....the colors started looking 'camo-ish' which I kind of like. The flourescent was the last used but more tape has been added and taken off since.
It is very unique and I really want it to look cool like all the others I see here...but alas, it is a functional workhorse with probably 30 total hours of video under it's belt. Function first, style later. I am really rough on the poor thing especially with how durable and forgiving it is.
I am including a closer-up photo that may help...or make you go 'Yuck!'
Allen
It's covered with eXtreme Packing tape....the brand from Staples, not sure if 3M but the fiber is crossed. I use it all over. Once in places before painting and then all over after for various reasons. Usually to try different mounting positions for my video pod.
The paint is one of the brand names off the shelf at Lowes. Kind of a flourescent lime green. Did not come out as thick as I wanted. That is the top-most coat you see. I also shot it first all over the bottom with Green Krylon which has a great look to it. After taping and removing and taping and removing....the colors started looking 'camo-ish' which I kind of like. The flourescent was the last used but more tape has been added and taken off since.
It is very unique and I really want it to look cool like all the others I see here...but alas, it is a functional workhorse with probably 30 total hours of video under it's belt. Function first, style later. I am really rough on the poor thing especially with how durable and forgiving it is.
I am including a closer-up photo that may help...or make you go 'Yuck!'
Allen
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Yeap, that is 3M Extreme tape (Bi-directional stapping tape) which is sold by Staples and Office depot.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
thanks Aerorecon for taking the time to post another close up shot and to Gryphon for extra info. I have purchased large quantities of glow in the dark paint by Krylon, which i don't know what to do with yet, but a glow in the dark Stryker with UV-LED lighting installled (the UV part will accentutate flourescent paint) sounds like a possible future project.
Oh ya, Aerorecon whiat camera are you using? Flycamone2 by hobby lobby? Those are some nice shots. How much does your camera + mount weigh?
Oh ya, Aerorecon whiat camera are you using? Flycamone2 by hobby lobby? Those are some nice shots. How much does your camera + mount weigh?
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: AeroRecon
Good Day Gents!!
Went down to the beach with my Stryker this weekend....and of course, I got some AMAZING video! This was off the coast of North Carolina just south of Nags Head. Flew three batteries with a video flight on number two. Then on the last flight, I was making the landing approach over the water because of the wind direction. To make sure I cleared the water I gave a last burst but wind pushed me down early so the spinning prop kicked some sand up and into the motor. Now the prop won't turn.
So, how do I get sand out of an Eflite 2700 motor?? Water? WD40?? Trashcan??
A lot of the 11 minute video is bumpy from the wind but I am seeing parts I can cut out for some decent ocean and beach flying.
I only seem to get time to check the thread every 5 or 6 pages now but looking back at the talk of clear duck tape. That was all I could find when taping up an old stryker frame to turn into a motorless slope glider on the dunes at Nags Head. (too windy to fly...was too light I think)
Anyway, I carried the planes around in giant 55gal trash bags to protect from the wind. The heat and humidity built up in the bags. The duck/duct tape became very tacky and started pulling up and coming off. The extreme tape did not have this problem. So be careful if using clear, or any, duct tape on your birds. I sure won't again with Summer fast approaching. Extreme Packaging tape only for me!!
Allen
Good Day Gents!!
Went down to the beach with my Stryker this weekend....and of course, I got some AMAZING video! This was off the coast of North Carolina just south of Nags Head. Flew three batteries with a video flight on number two. Then on the last flight, I was making the landing approach over the water because of the wind direction. To make sure I cleared the water I gave a last burst but wind pushed me down early so the spinning prop kicked some sand up and into the motor. Now the prop won't turn.
So, how do I get sand out of an Eflite 2700 motor?? Water? WD40?? Trashcan??
A lot of the 11 minute video is bumpy from the wind but I am seeing parts I can cut out for some decent ocean and beach flying.
I only seem to get time to check the thread every 5 or 6 pages now but looking back at the talk of clear duck tape. That was all I could find when taping up an old stryker frame to turn into a motorless slope glider on the dunes at Nags Head. (too windy to fly...was too light I think)
Anyway, I carried the planes around in giant 55gal trash bags to protect from the wind. The heat and humidity built up in the bags. The duck/duct tape became very tacky and started pulling up and coming off. The extreme tape did not have this problem. So be careful if using clear, or any, duct tape on your birds. I sure won't again with Summer fast approaching. Extreme Packaging tape only for me!!
Allen
AeroRecon
Re. Sand in the motor - Actually not a big deal actually, happen to me when I was flying in Nevada last year, so forget the trash can, this is what I would do:
First try to see if it's possible to rinse it out with warm water, and I think your motor has venting holes in both ends without blocking insulation washer so it might work (depending on the grain size etc. Let the motor dry overnight in a warm space, I'm using my oven set to lowest that is aproximately 150 F. NOTE - If your bearings are not sealed (assume that) then they need a drop of oil...
If this doesn't work, then the end wall needs to be removed, align the leads with the holes the slowly pry it using a knife and perhaps a glove for protection, rotate the motor as you work around it - keep an eye on the 3 leads so they stay aligned to protect the insulation. As soon as the end wall is backed off enough the rotor can be pushed out allowing a god rinse out, i's pretty self explaining in a way I think?
Was that trash bag black by any chance? Would most likely have the same result as our friend King Pauls experience after being in the trunk of a black BMW.
In my experience - all duct tape has bad aging, heat and glue propertys, to no surprise - You get what you pay for... hehe
Slope Glider Hint: Add weight in stronger winds, they all do I noticed...
Stryker_Viking
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Hooray!!! I was able to blow out the sand with highpressure air and wd-40. A few air blasts and worked it around a bit....then some wd-40 and it sounds better than it ever did!!
Thanks for the water tip. I was real close to trying that....but I saw the air...and the wd-40....so I thought I would give it a try.
If I had weight up on the dunes I would have tried that....and yes, they were black plastic.
Working on the video now. Going to have it up tonight. Stay tuned!
Allen
Thanks for the water tip. I was real close to trying that....but I saw the air...and the wd-40....so I thought I would give it a try.
If I had weight up on the dunes I would have tried that....and yes, they were black plastic.
Working on the video now. Going to have it up tonight. Stay tuned!
Allen
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
ORIGINAL: iamman711
thats an idea id like to try but please excuse my ingnorance, i dont know what ca stringers are. I googled it to no avail.
I think gorilla glue will not stick to metal if diluted enough with water, and is not compressed to form a bond. We'll see how it goes. Stay tuned.
thats an idea id like to try but please excuse my ingnorance, i dont know what ca stringers are. I googled it to no avail.
I think gorilla glue will not stick to metal if diluted enough with water, and is not compressed to form a bond. We'll see how it goes. Stay tuned.
A stringer is a strip of (in this case) Carbon Fiber, usually long thin strips in vertical position (like the letter I) attached to the frame or foam in this case.
Don't try to dilute Gorilla glue with water, it's impossible. What you want to do is to dampen the surfaces to maximize the foam-expansion, also add moisture over the glue.
The glue will stick, but I doubt it will be enough without bolting it onto the airframe, I would add stringers instead.
Stryker_Viking
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Hi all,
I like to let you all know that chippedprop will start part 7 tomorrow.
He has been around since part 1 and cares about both "Performance" and "Price".
His passion has always been Strykers but also has some good experience with Funjets.
Several of the Stryker GREATS/KINGS agree with me that chippedprop is a great choice to handle part 7.
So with great pride I will pass on the torch to him tomorrow.
Have fun,
Gryphon
I like to let you all know that chippedprop will start part 7 tomorrow.
He has been around since part 1 and cares about both "Performance" and "Price".
His passion has always been Strykers but also has some good experience with Funjets.
Several of the Stryker GREATS/KINGS agree with me that chippedprop is a great choice to handle part 7.
So with great pride I will pass on the torch to him tomorrow.
Have fun,
Gryphon
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Looking forward to Part 7 and to be more a part of it. Thanks to Gryphon for all the great help and assistance!!! Job well done!!!
As one of the final Part 6 posts I offer an edited but not finalized aerial video from my Stryker. Went from 11 minutes to 4:15 but still needs work....and titles....and a soundtrack. But I promised something tonight so here ya go. I hope the High Quality link shows up. I will add video and titles later.
This should do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MZPnWZEx3I
Others at:
http://www.youtube.com/AllenAJS
Allen
As one of the final Part 6 posts I offer an edited but not finalized aerial video from my Stryker. Went from 11 minutes to 4:15 but still needs work....and titles....and a soundtrack. But I promised something tonight so here ya go. I hope the High Quality link shows up. I will add video and titles later.
This should do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MZPnWZEx3I
Others at:
http://www.youtube.com/AllenAJS
Allen
#2574
RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Thats some great video AeroRecon!!
Looks like I'll be joining you guys in part 7 for some performance tips, I've been in the Bullet-proof stryker thread and have finally fnished changing my stock ebay cheapy stryker B into a Fiberglass/Kevlar/Carbon fiber reinforced Brushless Flyer (look to the build a bulletproof stryker thread for many pix of the build from foam parkzone to present.
Looks like I'll be joining you guys in part 7 for some performance tips, I've been in the Bullet-proof stryker thread and have finally fnished changing my stock ebay cheapy stryker B into a Fiberglass/Kevlar/Carbon fiber reinforced Brushless Flyer (look to the build a bulletproof stryker thread for many pix of the build from foam parkzone to present.
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RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
reaperofsoulz,
Welcome to the thread.
Looks like you upgraded your radio to Futaba 2.4 GHz ( I see stickers), also looks like a brushless motor.
If you get a chance please post a close up of your motor mount.
What are you running for you power system?
*** Your Stryker is truly a DARK SIDER.
Good job on this one: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6880117/tm.htm
Gryphon
Welcome to the thread.
Looks like you upgraded your radio to Futaba 2.4 GHz ( I see stickers), also looks like a brushless motor.
If you get a chance please post a close up of your motor mount.
What are you running for you power system?
*** Your Stryker is truly a DARK SIDER.
Good job on this one: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6880117/tm.htm
Gryphon