Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, decided direct drive ailerons are a go on the Corsair.
What I'm planning on doing is using a brass tube, with an inside diameter just big enough to go over the output shaft on a servo. Then drilling through the tube and output shaft and pinning them together with a very small screw. On the other end of the brass tube I will machine a bushing to fit inside the tube. It will have a small hole through it for a heavy connecting rod to go through.

Connecting rod will be brazed to the bushing, and the bushing will be silver soldered to the tube.

Pinning the tube to the servo shaft will allow removal of the servo if needed.

Anyhow, think a plastic servo shaft will hold up? Or should I go with metal?
And think it might pose any type of interference problem with the dissimular metals being used?

ktaylor

Brad, that looks like something that you'll need phil & mac to answer.

ktaylor

Doug, Cool, I have a couple extra goodies to go with the Tape. Right now I gotta check with UPS & the Postal service & see who will charge less on the shipping.

Airbourne in Japan

My Feedback: (3)

thanks Ken. i would have thought the post office would be quite cheap. oooh, goodies

export!

Thanks Mac - I'll have to pick that up next time I cross the border.


6000+ secret servos!!! How am I going to corner the market this time!!!

gunfighterII

GG,
I don't see any problem in regards to interference, usually you have to have 2 metal pieces rubbing together.

I like the idea, the only thing I have reservations about is the pinning of the shaft. So I would recommend a metal geared servo if this is the method of attachment, I think the pinning would hold up better.
I was trying to think of a way to incorporate a splined servo arm with all the arms cut off and then attach to that, but I'm not coming up with anything.
I'm thinking a splined connection to the servo will be the strongest, and you would'nt need a screw as there would be no chance of it coming off.

gunfighterII

GG,
Here's an off the wall idea, get yourself some Dubro aluminum servo arms and grind the arms off, then find a flat head screw small enough to go thru the servo arm up into your brass tube, and then bond with JB weld. Then you have a solid arm with a splined horn that can just be pushed on.

If you decide to do the pinning method, I would switch to stainless steel tubing, the brass will be soft and egg out around the pinning.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Mac, cool I like that. Ok maybe a set screw instead of pinning just to be sure the tube doesn't try and walk off the servo shaft?

Your idea was similar to what I was originally thinking of doing. I was going to insert a small washer inside the tube, and JB or solder it in place. Then use the servo screw through it to lock the tube to the shaft. Only problem with that was I'd have to make the other end of the tube removable so I could access the screw.

I'll work on it tonight and see what I can come up with. Hmmm, small steel tubing. Oooooh, I got it. I'll use steel brake/ fuel line, we have all kinds of bulk here at work. Thanks.


Blisters, Postal is way cheaper to ship overseas then UPS. At least it was from here to the UK.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Well now this is going to take some getting used to. They finally replaced our old monitors with 20" flat screens. Holy cow, everything is now Pappy sized.
Dang Pappy, you need one of these. Won't need to refont anything to be able to read it.

five-string

Geezers

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

PUTZ


Anyhow, back to serious posting.
How bout this?

Stingray69

49 hrs of aileron work.......only to be shot down in a few minutes. You might be better off working on a scifi force field gizmo

gunfighterII

GG,
It looks like it might hold for a flight or two.

BaldEagel

GG

If you have a look at the Hand Lauch Gliders ,you know the Discuss things, they use that type of aileron connection for the ailerons using a yoke arrangement, can't find a link at the moment, but I am sure you will be able to find something on the web.

MIke

ktaylor

Brad, how are you gonna tighten up the servo arm screw? Or do you tighten it onto the servo & then JB weld the tube into place?

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Ken, long thin screw driver. Screw would go in from the slotted end of the main tube. Down the tube to the servo arm part that's JB welded in.


Wow check this out. And we thought MW was off the wall. Wonder if they are related.[X(]
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_65..._1/key_/tm.htm

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

Loubud

Kate,
I didn't post twice, I had trouble with RCU not reloading after the first post, so I hit the post again after going back one page. Couldn't get back on the rest of the night.

I assumed I might have a bug tho everything else worked so I ran some diagnostics. I then did a deep virus/trojan/maleware/spyware scan. Turned up clean but still couldn't get back on.
So I took a little nap which turned into a 4 hour nap. Musta used up all my brain power.[X(]

I just reread the JR homepage spec sheet. It can mean something different than I thought when I first read it. It could easily mean that the servo is fine unless you go higher than a .30 Nitro or a 50 electric.

I would like to know if Helifreak actually used these or heard it from somewhere that it isn't advisable for the JR's to be used.

I think it just got my goat that I thought I had the perfect servo sitting in my servo box. And I think I may be just trying to rationalize that they are okie dokie.

Mac,
The recommended servo for the tail rotor was a Fub. And it didn't hit the specs that the JR did. It would only handle 4.8 Volts. I checked the next size up and same thing. Don't remember for sure but the next size up, ditto. It appeared that the JR was better suited for this application.

Elaine rewrote the lotto rules. The number I sent GG is wrong. Sorry Brad.
I'll put up her lotto in a few minutes. You won't figure it out so just pick a stupid number and get it over with.

Loubud

Here is The ever Gracious Elaine's lotto.

It’s all about the tools and you need this one! (Just ask Lou about me and tools.) It’s good for wood, foam, plastic and whatever else you might build your plane out of.

The magic question is, “What is the wingspan of the biggest ARF, still in the box, that can safely fit inside a 1995 Mercedes E class with a comfortable driver and adult passenger?”
Hint #1: The number is between 75 and 132 inches (you don’t have to say “inches”, just the number is OK).
Hint #2: I know what 12 inches is.

Lottery continues until the correct number is hit. If your number has already been picked you get one more guess.

Happy flying.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...HPK&lpage=none

The guessing starts now. Must have 5 previous posts to play. ( PM Pacific Time starts a new day. That's Midnight for those on the wrong coast.

Stingray69

I'll get the party started Lou. 117

AJ1202

Why would you start a thread, fill it full of crap then say you don't want anything to do with it's discussion. Not sure I even get why it was even posted.

OK TEGE first guess is 86

BendR

HEY HEY!! New looto time! Yee Haw

Shot in the dark, well try 123

"Geezers", "Putz", you guys are killin me!

Lou, helifreaks is a website/forum for , well, heli freaks. Loads of good info over there too

Gary (superskids) is all over the heli section of the threads and seams like a real good dude. He has come up with some great mods and products for electric helis. His L/G are second to none. Seen a test where someone stood on them and when they got off, the L/G bounced right back into shape.

Well, gotta go for now, boxes to pack and all. Travel arrangements-done, tickets purchased-done. Might have already mentioned that, not sure. My mind is mush these days[&:]

Loubud

Thanks BlendR

I just called JR Tech Support.
Scratch the servos I have. Tech Dude said they are fine for basic flying but he wouldn't risk 3D with it. Also knows the Rex 600 well.

He recommended using analog servos with metal gears and massive torque. The torque and metal gears was just for safety. He recommended a digital for the tail rotor only. Also said that 6 Volts is the way to fly as you get better servo speed. He could have recommended to go all digital but didn't.

I'll take a look around for analog but would rather see digitals on there. Only inexpensive digitals I know of are from UH (Hobby City).

I need input. Who would chose UH digitals over a name brand analog? The Rex will be at Terry's soon and we need to hurry.

My latest idea is to go for the best UH digital they have. A bit scary to test out on a large heli. Analog may be best. Dunno.

ktaylor

Lotto
I know this one.. 100 inches.


Lou, at one point when I first bought those $127 metal gear digitals from UH, I did some research & found a video on RC Groups where a guy had one on his heli, on the main rotor head.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Gee Gary, aren't you going to miss all the exciting jeep rides?

God Speed.