CDRacingZX6R

I plan on buying this. Keeping it stock for now and getting the RTF version.

Just wondering if there is an alternative to the Parkzone battery's I can buy that are cheaper with similar performance? I'd like to get 2-3 additional ones, but at 64 bucks a pop for the Parkzone brand ones, I got no chance and I'm a relative newbie to electrics. Mainly just been a nitro man.

Any alternative suggestions would be great!

Thanks.

r/cmark42

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http://www.efuelhobbies.com/proddeta...=2100-3S1P-20C

this is the least expensive 2100 battery I could find..

Mark

RedGN

Go to ebay.... i can get two 2200 mah for that price.

mind you they are 'mystery' batteries but so far no problems. ( about 5 cycles )

Gryphon

RedGN,

Do you also have an F-27C Stryker?

If you are using those batteries on your Spitfire, that stock 480 brushed motor draws substantially less than the F-27C's 400 brushless motor.

The stock F-27C Stryker's lipoly barely keeps up and does get pretty warm with nonstop full throttle runs.

Any less of a battery will be in trouble.

The post before yours, even if not a real 20C cell will still have to be better than the lousy F-27C battery.

What are the Mystery cells rated for? Seriously: some mysteries are best not solved. All I can think of is how many posts I have read about people not being able to find instructions about how to change the settings on their Mystery 60A ESCs. That was over a year ago and by now, that may be a mystery finally solved.

If you are using those batteries on a similar draw system of roughly 22A off the top of my head....great.
If they say 20C on them ...great even if not so real, still should be better than 12C cells, right? At least not worse.

If they say 12C....forget it.

If they say 15C, and it is false advertising like some companies do, then he would be too border line.
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r/cmark42

Thanks for the link, I copied and pasted it into another thread. I owe you one.

What type of power are you drawing from yours(your setup)? Is it in a F-27C? If so, I bet they come out cooler than the stock battery.

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CDRacingZX6R,

You need to do some tape mods to make your Stryker last. For all mods and also power upgrades check out the following 2 threads:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4790624/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6069877/tm.htm

Consider this possibility, when you upgrade and need more power none of these batteries will do unless they are better than the F-27C battery big time, like a true 20C or 25C batteries(the 2200 may be way too small depending on your future needs, ask us). Depending on what you want to do and how much of an upgrade you want to do in future, you may want to make do with fewer batteries, save your money to do the big upgrade sooner versus later.
There are many levels of upgrade, from about simple prop upgrade which is max on stock battery and ESC all the way up to 6 to 8 times the power of F-27C.
Power first comes from battery and a weak battery just cannot flow more juice and not even a $100+ motor can not help you if it does not get more juice.
You can find me on the 2nd link above.

Note: the real radar speed of your F-27C will be about 65 MPH as radared by many people.
80 MPH on the box is with tail wind and on a dive...most likely....call it false advertising if you want.

***APC E 6X5.5 prop will max your system $3, and raise your level, no wind speed to 72MPH...Use full power sparingly with occasional eye on your battery temp as far as warm weather goes. Motor can do more but ESC and battery are your first bottle necks for increased power.

Good luck,
Gryphon



Gryphon

RedGN

I do not have the 27c, i have the 27b. However i have used those batteries in four of my other parkflyers on being the spitfire with a 10X8 prop, another with a skyartec cessna which i put a brushless motor in and use the same battery, a kyosho p51, and a t-34 mentor which i also changed to brushless. All these i fly with the mystery 11.1v 1500 mah battery.(15c) seems to be plenty of power.

I am not 100% sure but i thought the "c" rating was for instant (short term power , like a capacitor) power not for continuous use.

If you have it a full all the time and need more power than go with a bigger motor and different pitch prop.
Good luck

Gryphon

Most packs show two "C" ratings
"C" constant and "C" burst.

"C" burst is for very short duration.

"C" constant is obvious, but to make the packs last a long time it is best to have a pack at 80% to 90% of its constant "C" rating.


*** Be careful, I remember seeing once that a manufacturer only showed a single ā€œCā€ rating which was for a short duration, so they were marketing a higher number to help increase sales. 2 years ago???

The amps you can flow have to do with two numbers battery capacity and "C" rating.

With three examples it will be very clear.

A 2200mAH 20C constant can is rated for this many Amps:


2200mAH= 2.2AH= its capacity. (m stands for mili which is 1/1000)

Now multiply by the "C" rating: 2.2X15=33A constant rating.
But to make them last longer and run cooler stay at 80% rating. 33AX0.8= 26.4A constant draw from battery will be good.


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2200mAH 12C constant
2.2X12=26.4A constant rating
At 80%, 26.4X0.8=21.12A should be good.

3300 12C const
3.3X12=39.6A constant rating.
39.6A X 0.8=31.7A will be good draw
Larger capacity will mean bigger battery and more weight.
Also given a same company, higher ā€œCā€ ratings are usually a little bigger and heavier too.
If amp flows are fine and only longer duration is needed then when going to a bigger capacity, you can go down on C rating to save a little weight and possibly cost.

Plenty of people run theirs at 90% or even into the burst range with some throttle management, but that does reduce the life of the battery somewhat. I run at 90%....usually.
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Also the higher the amp rating, when the motor is running, it will drop less voltage under load, motor will see a little more voltage and it will then draw a little more amps given the same prop.
A X V=W
Little more V X little more A = more power (W), which means more RPM and more speed.
If you are borderline on your equipment specs then ESC and motor temp should be monitored in the first few flights.

So a better battery will make more power.

With a good original setup, the extra power may not be noticed. But with an original setup that has been running with an under sized battery the power increase will be more noticeable.
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Higher amp rating can come from higher "C" rating with same capacity as before or from bigger capacity battery with lower "C" rating, or some combination thereof.

Higher capacity battery should give longer flight time.

If new capacity is barely larger than before, and also possibly with barely a little higher "C" rating or same and less drop in voltage, more Amps are being drawn from battery, then the flight duration may not necessarily be longer. Yeah the pack is a little bigger but the amps are also coming out of it a little faster, therefore it will get empty at about same time (only if a little more capacity).

Now going from a 2200 to a 3300 will show a good deal longer flight but a little less than 50% longer due to the higher amp draw.

Enough ranting from me.....

Have a good day guys,

Gryphon