moparmyway

Fishfartus,
Great job on the Ultracoat!!!!!
MY opinion on motor choices if you REALLY want speed are as follows:
(These are MY personal choices)

NEU 1115/2D - 2900kv - $155

NEU 1115/2.5D - 2300kv - $155

NEU 1115/3D - 1900kv - $155

MEGA ACn16/25/2 - 2650kv - $130

MEGA ACn16/25/3 - 1700kv - $130

Medusa 28x56x2800 V2- 2800kv - $80

Medusa 28x56x1900 V2- 1900kv - $80

These are BIG motors. I can tell you that the 56mm Medusas will suck up ALOT of power, I believe they are the longest 28mm diameter motor you can get, and you WILL need the 125a Phoenix with the 2800 on a 6x5.5 prop on 3s. NEU is just as long (maybe a little smaller), MEGA is shortest length on MY list. You could go smaller length on any motor, but bigger length equals bigger power (basically). You pick based on wallet and KV. Best advice is what I was told, and it works:
Buy the best motor you can and you can change $3 props for your desired speed. Battery needs will vary with prop selection. Prop selection will be up to you based on your needs (climbing - speed)

ESC: Stick with Phoenix - if you want max flexability - go 125a and get Castle Link

You can keep looking at charts, hear everyones opinions, etc...........I want to stress that these are MY choices, and right now I am pushing 100a on 3s through the big Medusa 2800, I added a heatsink and the motor hasnt even gotten warm yet. Mostly everyone seems to love the MEGA once they get it. NEU motors are hand made by ONE guy named Steve, and can probably take the most power, when mine arrive (they are on order) I will find out.

BTW - NEU is made in USA, Medusa is not, not too sure about MEGA

Every motor on my list will give you chills and one heck of a huge grinn[>:]

You can fit all of the listed motors into stock F27C motor mount with a little modification, but if you do Chippedprops flat deck - well then you can put a HEMI on that[>:][&:]

Gryphon

fishfartus,

Nice looking plane. Hope your servos and push rods are not stock....Never know when they may give out.

Try running APC Pylon 6.5X5.0 or 6.5X5.5 (4 MPH speed difference between them, 80 MPH for faster prop as compared to stock 65 MPH).

Both props should have unlimited vertical...similar vertical between both props.

Good motor heat sink is not a bad idea, but at least colder days are here.

___________________________


Since the KDA is a "too much of a hog for your liking", then the answer regarding the 125A will be an absolute waste of time...I'll skip that one.


Have fun and enjoy your beautiful plane.


Gryphon

Gryphon

moparmyway,

Not so sure about your listed prices. MEGA is $15+ cheaper than you listed and Medusa price listed is for the smaller 28-40-XXXX, I thought the bigger one was closer to $90...unless you have a good source for ordering the Medusa.


_________________________

Chippedprop,

The motor table prices and links need to be updated. If the post is too old for edit (30+ days), then we need a new post on top of an upcoming page...however you want it.

Any Wattmeter numbers on your (2) Micro Dan 2800KV motors in the last 5 or 6 months?


Gryphon

chippedprop

Stryker Motor Table

All ok to use with Stryker

Gryphon

chippedprop,


1) Mega prices are no longer correct due to price increase.
Also we may need to find best place to buy MEGA. Someone mentioned a cheaper place to buy the MEGA as compare to New Creations RC at $114 (no longer $95).


2) Any recommendations for Micro Dan motor needs to go into the table...


3) Any prop recommendations for stock F-27C motor can go in there such as
3S: 6X5.5, up to 6.5X5.5 (with throttle management)
4S 6X4, 6X5 (with throttle management)


Gryphon

itzobi

My Feedback: (3)

Gryphon,

Sorry that I confused you into thinking I already owned the Stryker.

I see the method to your madness as well concerning building it from scratch.

However, I lack patience, especially ordering anything from Hong Kong.

So I will be buying the PNP version of the Stryker, I have a DX5E radio and receiver waiting for it. And I did dig the paint job.

I have three 11.1 Lipos, 25C, 2200mah batteries waiting for it.

I will eventually modify it as time goes by, with all of your suggestions of course.

I am looking to find or order the one that comes with the 30a ESC, as the 25a ESC I have had problems with my T-28 Trojan.

moparmyway

Gryphon,

MEGA reflects close to website prices. NEU and Medusa is exactly what I paidfor them. Might be able to find all of them cheaper, I just went with easiest way to get what I need. Worked for me at the time.

Also, I will order 3s-5000 soon, wont be able to do tests with prop we were discussing. I dont believe they were able to test very well using 3850. Check out file coming your way

Gryphon

itzobi,

I believe the new 30A ESC is good for 3S, 4S.............old 25A ESC was good for 2S, 3S.

So it is a vast improvement already.

As long as you have the stock motor, stay with the 30A ESC. Open up the side air vents and extra air will be blasted onto that ESC and it should work fine at up to 35A...you wouldn't need any more AMPs on that motor.

Start to think about the (2) Hitec 81, or 81MG servos(wires are short) and (2) 2-56 sized push rods and clevis, 2 servo wire extensions.
Then upgrade to APC Pylon 6.5X5.0 for starters along with 28mm diameter motor heat sink.

Next will be 4S pack using same 30A ESC and 5.5X4.5 prop to take it easy on motor before propping up any more.
Good idea to get that $6 capacitor gizmo to plug into unused ch of your spectrum receiver to protect your receiver from voltage dropping too low and losing link.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM1600


Wow, what is this...I just found it:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...x?ProdID=SPMCP

New SH_T ....great.

Stay away from AR6100 and AR6300. AR6000 is suspect too but not as much.
I only trust AR6200 and AR7000.
I have not heard anything bad about the new 5ch FULL RANGE receiver.......you'll be our first tester. But with above (2) Gizmos, you might have grenade proof radio system. We need to read about 2nd item above.

I believe that new 5ch Spektrum Transmitter is not a computer radio...oh well. Make sure the batteries are in good shape.

Buy a wattmeter except for the e-flight unit because you can not see all 4 main numbers on the same screen AT THE SAME TIME, and you need to push a button to go next number, then next one and so on...A, V, W, mAH


Gryphon

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

itzobi - I was planning on doing the same thing - buying a PNP one and upgrading - until I flew my mate's built-up one.

He made minimal mods to it consisting of a single CF spar running under the motor mount and balsa elevons.

His is powered with one of the inexpensive outrunner/ESC combos from Grayson Hobbies. It performs easily on par with the stock one, but his power system has enough headroom to handle extended runs with 6x5 props without overheating and dying.

We tested this setup out with a bunch of props... I posted the resulting numbers and my flight impressions a few pages back.

I finally ran the numbers WRT what it cost him to build it.

F27C bare fuselage : $17
F27C hatch set : $7
F27C motor mount : $5
Grayson SuperMegaJet motor / 40A ESC combo : $50

Control rods, clevises, control horns, balsa for elevons, c-Foam for fins, servos, AR6100 RX and lipos he had on hand already.

I'm building two.

One will be set up with the same gear that my friend is using... the other one will be Dark. 4- cells, 50A +, 1700 KV MEGA motor.

BTW - you might want to upgrade your transmitter. The DX5e is full range, has dual rates and elevon mixing, but its throws are not adjustable.

If you build your Stryker from scratch you can take some of the $$ you were going to spend on the PNP Stryker and grab a DX6e!

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

BTW - I have one of the AR500 receivers and have tested it extensively on my E3D and the club .60 trainer. Range is *not* an issue... I took the trainer to speck height with no loss of control whatsoever. I have another one on the way and will be using them in my Strykers.

Stryker_Viking

Hi all,
Yup - alive and still kicking after passing yet another big 0...

I bought those knock off plugs and CANNOT recommend them for the following reason(s)

* The type of plastic these knock-offs are made af has a much lover melting temperature compared to the original.
* The metal contacts will move during the soldering process
* Result is contacts out of alignment that are impossible or at least difficult to connect.
* Connection is not reliable, lost power twice on one of my motorized Zagi's once with a cart wheel landing as result.
* Workaround suggestion: Connect a free female to the male (or vice versa) before soldering

Mine was delivered before the summer, I asked them if any change in the type of plastic was in the plans but never got any response...

My personal reflection now is that because of the nature of this key product; The extra cost is easily motivated, I rather spend a few dollars more to know that I will not loose power to the receiver again...

Stryker_Viking

moparmyway

Rino,
Again...........please dont "cheap out" your investment. Use quality parts and you can re-use them. Use knock offs and you will wish you hadn't. Ultimately its up to you.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Larry, Saw your post on an opposite Stryker. It can be done. Don't tell anybody, but I even built one.

Tower Pro 2410-9Y motor and 30 amp esc, 3S1320 pack, and a MAS 9x7x3 prop. Motor and esc are China stuff, combo priced usually around $25.00. Set up pulls around 16 amps.

The low kv and 3 blade prop will give it lots of umph even at low speed. It won't go fast. LOL

Oh and it won't like wind as much.


I also saw somebody mentioning sending stuff back to Castle. I had sent 3 CC 60's back to them on Saturday, two weeks ago, and their site said 4 week turn around.

I had 3 brand new esc's sitting in my mail box by Friday, under one week turn around.

Larry Driskill

Glacier Girl / Gryphon / Chipped / Mr Mugen


Gobrushless.com got my stuff for "The Lo & Slo Stryker" (LSS) to me very quickly.

I mostly ordered what Gryphon dialed up and here's what I have and what I'm thinking,

MicroDan 2505 1490KV Outrunner - 23.5 grams
Fusion-Pack 3s 1500mah 15C - 77.3 grams
Markus 30A ESC - 14.4 grams
Bare Stryker airframe - approx. 185 grams

I'm planning on using built-up ailerons, a modified Chipped flat mount (modified since it's an outrunner), stock or HS-55 servos and one of my 555 receivers.

I'll try to get some weight off the frame, but there isn't much to be saved there.

I would try just one vertical stab, but Gryphon would not approve . . . so two light ones.

It will be a calm, or light breeze, Stryker, but I will have the heavy iron for normal West Texas conditions.

Thanks for the help folks.

moparmyway

DANG

That was a 7x5 prop
That was a 4 second flight that went like this:
Throw, firm and just above horizon
Why is it hard rolling right ?[sm=angry_smile.gif]
Input:left roll
Why is it still hard rolling right ?seems no response[sm=angry_smile.gif]
Input:chop throttle
CRASH!!!!!![:@][:@][:@]
Nose first @ 45deg angle, upside down[X(][X(]
Now I have no 7x5 prop
Now I have no more vertical fins
Now I have split the motor mount from the 4 screws closest to motor[X(]
Now I have no more 72mHZ reciever[&o]
Now my 3s-3850 is dented and must sit for 15 minutes
DANG[:'(]
125a Phoenix, CC BEC - seems OK, not sure, but no visual damage[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Oracle - seems OK, got 6 seconds of readings, it still works-whew
Stryker - broken in front, one very large main body without anything fwd of 2nd hatch- now its garbage
3s-3850-seems OK, will see if it baloons tonight[sm=72_72.gif]
Medusa 28x56x2800 - very bent mutherscratching shaft[:@][sm=cry_smile.gif][:@][sm=cry_smile.gif][:@][sm=cry_smile.gif]
DANG[sm=48_48.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=48_48.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]

Performed function check prior to launch, everything good. This has done this before, but I was able to fly it out, not this time, rolled much faster than before. First time with 7inch prop. Was this from the prop, and do we launch at less than full throttle to stop this with large props????

Today I will be ripping out receiver from Daredevil to see if 125a Phoenix still works, and I will try to fix shaft. If it breaks I will send out to Medusa, if I fix it, It could fly on Monday with the new one I just glued Friday.

NOPE...............Never flying again untill I get DX7
I am not sure if 72mHZ was the reason, or if torque was reason.............anyone have experience with 7inch props....HELP[sm=drowning.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]

sirpa

I got a wattmeter from HC and I am quite surprised by some of the results

I tested the don's wicked 2700 KV with APC 5.5x4.5 . All batteries are 3 S. 5 to 10 % discharged. All results are peak ones.

Parkzone 2200 12C : 31 A - 303 W
HC 2100 25 C : 34.5 A - 365 W :
mystey 2450 25C : 40 A down to 37 A after 10 s - 460 W

That last battery which is the cheapeast I ever bought ( 45 $ for two of them with transportation to Finland ) gives the biggest power . I expected them to be junk but they appear to be first class batteries . They are very light : 187 g only


I bought them from an ebay store who is out of stock now . They also had the same 25 C with 2800 mah for only 207 g . Quite light !

http://stores.ebay.com/CyberPort888_...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I found them again in that store :

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mystery-2450mAh-...1%7C240%3A1318

Time will tell if they were a good bargain but thoses are the only batteries my cheap HC charger ever managed to charge between 4.18 and 4.20 V.

I tested my stock stryker motor with APC 6x5.5 and I got 30 A peak and 353 W instead of 27.5 A and 300 W with other batteries 25 C also.

cbr954rr

Looking at 2 batteries from united hobbies. 1st is a rhino 2350 25c 4 cell. 2nd is the rhino 3700 20c 4 cell. Both show to be 45mm wide. The stryker is only 35mm wide. I see everyone talking about using larger batteries. How are you doing it. Anyone have these batteries in there stryker now.

thanks

Mr. Mugen

OUCH! Sorry for your crash man. SOunds like it could have been a number of things. First off, did you make any changes in the elevons since last flight?

Any chance you radio has more than one model on it? Maybe it was on another model?

Maybe the 7 inch prop created more torque roll than expected?

I wouldn't cuss the 72mhz radio just yet. I still have had only one glitch in 1000's of hours using them. I know others have had other issues but normally it is not the rx's fault. Placement of rx and other elect's has more to do with it than freq alone. My biggest gas plane flies until it is a spec and it has a 7 foot wingspan with not a single glitch and it has a 2 stroke gas engine with lots of vibrations.

Check to see if both servo's are centering properly. Then make sure you get full deflection out of both of them. Sometimes a stripped gear hides itself until flight....have had it happen in my typhoon.

Out of ideas. Wish I could help more man. NEVER GIVE UP!

Kevin

moparmyway

Mr.Mugen-
Servos center and operate perfectly (HS65MG)(can add another crash to their resume - they are 2 years old, over 30 crashes, NEVER a problem) I hold arm and operate to simulate resistance. I cant even hold these suckers back (CC BEC is set to 6.3v) not one funny noise, no skipping, just powerful movements as should be.

No changes other than installing 7inch prop, pulled off 6inch. All electronics (x-cept receiver) check out perfect. Receiver smashed from 3s-3850 hitting it - rec garbage............ battery dented, but seems good

(125 phoenix - CC BEC - Oracle -Opto isolator - Servos: All perfect)

motor HAD bent shaft. Its straight now, that only took 1 hour.

Stryker body - garbage

Radio is stock PZ green one, no multiple model capability, only use this transmitter with this Stryker anyway

Receiver installed all the way up front, in front of battery.

I too have hundreds of flights on 72mHZ, flew as far as you can see, only problems I have ever had were when HID lights strike or restrike. No HID lights in area. Was torque roll so powerfull that plane couldnt respond to left roll input, not moving fast enough yet?????

I am thinking the 7inch prop at full throttle and slow speed of plane was reason(s)................Not sure though. Very bad sick feeling when it hit, that was the most expensive gear I ever flew, and I saw it just get crushed, thought everything was junk. Thank God for the foam of the stryker.

I might fly 72mHZ, will wait to see, I dont want to that kind of crash again, maybe on Utube, but not my birds.
Do you get bad torque roll when you fly 7inch prop on Stryker??
I will never give up. Kevin, you have helped more than you know, thanks

sirpa

Ok Ifound the 2800 mah mystery batteries here :

http://cgi.ebay.com/2800mAh-11-1v-25...1%7C240%3A1318

And look at the price !!

Mr. Mugen

I see what you mean by getting a new radio now. I had one of those green demons once when I first started. I agree with your first instinct....get a different radio. It did not nessessrily cause the crash but it will in time.

I had a serious case of torque roll when I flew the 7x5 but I corrected it fast. How heavy is your stryker? I wonder if your servo's stalled? It is possible since they only put out 30 ozs of torque. You have to figure the weight of the plane and the pressure put on the elevons with the additional torque. Not saying they did stall but it is very possible. Those are great servo's indeed but they will stall when they reach their stall point. Just trying to figure the most likely before going in deeper. I hope we can figure it out soon.

Take care fella's, off to deer camp for the day,
Kevin

Strykerstriker

Moparmayway

I have used 7x5E APC prop on a 4s2200 and mega 16/25/3. Never had any problems with that. Throttle at about 75_80% and of she goes. Throws to horizon, it dips a little and up she goes, no tourqe roll.

However onse with a 7x4 same battery and motor i had the same crash as you did, checked everything before take of but ones it left my hand i knew something was wrong.
Just as yours it rolled over no mather what input i gave and ended up nose down. Smashed[]

By the way,,, just got some very interesting info regarding that a new "badboy" setup might be just around the corner

moparmyway

Strykerstryker,
I am loving this "BAD BOY" so much, I am getting 2 of them. I cant wait, what prop are you starting with??

I am not too sure, but I may have been turning some more RPM's than you, maybe more of a torque roll than you had, was pulling way over 100a, also my prop was APC Sport, not E

What was wrong with the other setup that crashed, if you ever found out, or have an idea, let me hear it, maybe there is something common???????

So you launch with 7inch prop at 3/4 throttle????WHY???
is it to minimize torque rolling??????


__________________________________________________ __-
Mr.Mugen,
Plane used to weigh around 28oz wothout battery, I dont think it was servo failure by beating 30oz of torque on each elevon, she just left my hands, wasnt going for more than 2 feet before she started in her death roll, anything else????

I hear you on the radio, My thinking is this, If I have to purchase something, it will just be DX7 - no worries that way. I just have to wait a few weeks, have been saving for a "secret"[&:][>:][&:][>:][8D]


Thanks for all your help, war-gaming is sometimes whats needed!!

Mr. Mugen

Roger that good buddy. 2.4 is the way of the future...might as well jump aboard. Nice to know there is no one on your channel too.

Any chance that the mixing switch got jarred? If I remember correctly it had a switch for elevon mixing right?

Kevin

moparmyway

Mr.Mugen,
It seemed as if everything was OK.
I looked that over just before I hit that muther with a 5 pound sledge.
Man, plastic went everywhere, if anyone tries that at home, wear goggles.
NO WAY to fix that now.
Now there isnt any worrying about green demons trying to scare me.
Now there is NO WAY to fly unless I buy a transmitter, and it will be DX7.
Now I can slow down and not rush my current build, which has ALOT more CF in it.

__________________________________________________ ___________

Gryphon,
Been thinking about what you said, laminating with plywood on elevons, I guess you must do that before you hinge it and attach it so you can center it??
Is there a preference between glueing on top vs glueing on bottom?
Any specific plywood, there seems to be Poplar, Birch, etc.............