Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks everyone.... I did check the battery as you suggested and everything seem to work .... I did not have a prop on the engine and the sound seem to be the same when checked...both direct and with the esc... The prop was loose and freewheeling...so I removed it before the test.. That is a pressed on prop and it is loose on the shaft... The more that I look into this I believe I would be much happier with a super stryker or at least a stock F-27 C... Thanks again

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

If you've already got radio gear you'd really be better off building one up. $40 bucks for an F27C fuse, motor mount, hatch set & vertical fins... $10 more for some CF rod and balsa elevons... add a $50 Grayson "MegaJet" outrunner/ESC combo and go tear stuff up.

I'm currently building two of these - one with the Grayson motor and an extra spar - the other one with a Mega 16/25/3 and lots of watts.

Gryphon

Flightops_69,

Sorry to hear about your crash buddy. Get back up in the air as soon as you can.


__________________________________________________

Wayne Miller,

Great links, thanks....I'll post a few links down below.

__________________________________________________

alros100,

It was good chatting with you and your buddy on a conference call on Yahoo Messenger.

__________________________________________________

Some links:

All the Carbon Fiber related material you can ever imagine:

http://www.cstsales.com/products.html

To cover stock elevons:
http://www.cstsales.com/carbon_laminates_60.html
0.007" X 1" X 60" (you can replace 60 with 48 in the above link to save a little, 48" is not max but damn close enough, I prefer to have some excess left, so I prefer 60").
The store that I was driving by yesterday only had 48" material and I bought some for $5.35. That is how I found out about CST and then I looked at their web site tonight.
I will Epoxy 12” to top and bottom of each elevon as per my buddy (King_Paul’s recommendation). He said CA was fine but I should experiment with Epoxy.

http://www.cstsales.com/Carbon_Bar.html
I prefer closest sizes to Midwest Product size of 0.092"X.220" (2.3mmX5.6mm) 24" minimum length but you need the 40" size to have excess left for long pieces across the rear.

My main concern would be shipping, I have no clue...search and call them and post your findings please.
http://www.cstsales.com/savers_club.html (says $40 Savers club "free shipping" does not cover oversize parcels)...is our stuff over size??????? 24" or 40"?????????

This company has so much C.F. and composite stuff that I was getting lost looking at them.

Midwest Products does not have 40" strips, that is why when Chippedprop and I were hanging out at Joe Nall fly-in back in May and we saw 40" no name C.F. strips, we jumped at the chance to buy several each.

__________________________________________________ _______

I know at least a few of you will like the following link. Gets a battery upgrade after the first few minutes...I saw A123, so I guess that is what they upgraded to.

http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/vide...ic-Drag-Racing


Gryphon

moparmyway

Gryphon,

Holy COW, that 7x5E prop is just muther scratchin really freakin loud and FAST on the 2800. Fast straight, but unholy vertical, out of sight in 4 seconds straight up[sm=48_48.gif]........WOAH, have to be extra quick on the sticks, or she will get lost

DX7 is like flying with a wire, exact, precise, not 1 single sneeze, burp, cough, glitch, or studder................simply AMAZING, and no interference with HID lights like on 72mHZ, I tried

Didnt have Oracle hooked up, but I think the Spring like weather today and especially tomorrow will make me go out again.

Mr. Mugen

Yes indeed they did use A123's for their upgrade. I cannot wait til we all get to use them in our cars. A few of us have been pounding the idea of making A123 powered wheel chairs for when our legs are shot. Maybe a wheelie bar, custom suspension, built in cooler.....lol. One for off road and one for on.

My next stryker is gonna blow some ions at the competition too! Just like tha datsun I hope.

Kevin

Gryphon

Mr. Mugen,

I'll need that wheel chair before you.



___________________________________


moparmyway,

I would be interested in the static readings with that prop....I bet you are no less than 110A, maybe more like 120A(depending on battery)....that poor motor.

Your KV is toooooooooooooooo high for those props.

So if you can test with roughly 10% empty battery, and post(or PM) A, V, W, RPM with that APC E 7X5 prop for your motor.

I have another friend who has tried the same setup and there is also 1 more guy outside of RCUniverse who is only a couple of steps behind you in testing various setups on that motor. He has been running smaller cell packs and is finally stepping up to proper size cells. I would love to see how close the numbers by you 2 guys are.
Don't worry he does not read this forum. (Post or PM).

Seriously.....don't burn out your motor even though you have a second identical motor.

APC E 7X5 draws same or marginally more than APC Sport 7X7. [X(]

*** I hope others do not prop the same way......7X5 Sport(still too much load) would draw just above 6.5X6.5 on ground......I know the 7X5 props unload some amps when speeds get higher.

Gryphon

moparmyway

Gryphon,
OK, here goes,\
I can fly it without Oracle and get unholy speeds straight and vertical.....................BUT when I hooked up Oracle, I got low cutoff and crashed on launch[:@]
Broke the pin for P.Link (data to power pro view) on the data input (orange wire)
SO, feeling like it cant get any worse, glued on lower skid that broke off when she crashed and launched right away without Oracle, again I got UHSS and UHSV[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
OK, now I get back home and figure since Oracle is toast, why not try to repair it, so I de-soldered the broken P.Link prongs (dang, they CA'd them together) and swapped with the AUX prongs after I de-soldered them also. Ok, now I solder everything back together and try to get data from Oracle......................here is what it says
V: 9.33....................obviously these are the last readings prior to cutoff
A: 118.4
W: 1104.7
RPM: 22,750
68% throttle

SO here's what I'm thinking, Oracle has enough resistance through it to pull the 3850 down, but without the added burdon of the Oracle, I get 3 minutes of hair raising bawls to the wall goose bumped obnoxiousely loud flights. I can run full throttle for about 15 seconds at same altitude running large circles, and she gets out of sight before she cuts off vertical.

1- I wont even guess whats the real numbers, I will have to wait a few weeks to get 5000mAH battery, the bill came in for the 2 NEU's
2- If Oracle takes that much power, or has high enough internal resistance, I dont know if I want it.............we will wait for that decision untill I get the 5000
3- Do you have any details from the others tests???? (Believe me, mine will not ever be influenced by anyones, this is just out of curiosity)
4- I have very large heatsink on mine, do they have the same?
5- Motor was max temp of 69f after 3 minutes of that throttle at or just under the stop, hit LVCO 4 times before I landed and took temp (OAT was 44f)

Gryphon

moparmyway,

Assuming static figures:

Those numbers do not seem in line with what I would expect. I mean the comparison of Watts input to your RPM…no, it does make me right….

I suspect the RPM, but then again that is just my guess. I also went on to a prop simulator which always and so grossly shows a dim light for efficiency of everyone's setups and it shows roughly 92% efficiency.....Sounds kind of high for so many AMPs.

When a pack is first plugged in, the auto calibration of Castle ESC does not know where full throttle is and full throttle is reached too early and it learns where max throttle is with subsequent higher and higher throttle lever positions (info is lost after battery disconnect).
You probably had damn near full throttle, even though the lever was raised 68%.

If they were in flight numbers let me know...that would make more sense to me,

_____________________________

Forget the other guy’s numbers, whenever I compare you two, your stuff sounds 30-40% higher. I deleted his info long ago.
I'll save his data when he is no longer running cells in the 2200-2500 mAH and is able to flow the insane AMPs that you do.
Biggest part of the discrepancy is the difference in size of cells. I hope to get more relevant data from him before too long; I'll share them with you as I get them.


Gryphon

moparmyway

Gryphon,
Phoenix was at full throttle when first plugged in, stayed that way till I secured and screwed down everything, then went to no throttle, waited a few and got the beeps, gave a little over 1/2 throttle, threw her and slowly was raising throttle when she cut off (thats probably why numbers seem skewed). I guess you COULD call that inflight, but it wasnt anything more than a few seconds. Also, I have heard this thing at full throttle, this was definately no where near full yet, and I had no red light on the Phoenix (which would have indicated full throttle), but after she crashed, I had 2 beeps and 2 blinks for low cutoff.....................

(According to Bernie at CC, it takes the Phoenix 4 seconds of full throttle for it to learn where full really is when in auto calibration mode. The red light will light for full throttle whenever Phoenix puts out full throttle, so if light is on, you are at full throttle.)

Numbers of 28x56x2800 according to ANY calc program I have ever seen has allways been WAY off of what I am getting.

After Christmas I will get Eagletree and see how they compare.

Also saw how I can replace Deans with wires and 6.5mm bullets on Oracle.

Just to be sure Oracle was working correctly, I put on 6x4 prop and gave her a ground test, got pretty much the same numbers as origionally tested with brand spanking new Oracle, so I believe that Oracle works fine, it just breaks the 3850, needs the 5000 just like 6.5x6.5 did when tested.

Now I have another thought, I think I will swap the 6.5x6.5 on tomorrow and fly without Oracle. I will probably be able to fly it for a few minutes, just like the 7x5..................................I could also line up props and test like I first did and see if warmed up and 2/3 drained battery will produce full throttle results without hitting cutoff, depends on how busy I will be at work tomorrow. If youre around at close to 12:00 Monday, give a call

Gryphon

moparmyway,

That was pretty funny: "....it just breaks the 3850"....LOL.., I guess it sounds better than saying: "ripping it a new one"

You will fly faster top speed with 6.5X6.5, acceleration will still be phenomenal....slower acceleration but Phenomenal.


Talk to you tomorrow (ask me for update).


Gryphon

Strykerstriker

To Gryphon, Moparmaywy and all fellow stryker pilots.

Long time, no see....and im sorry for that.

This time off from work has been a living nightmare, 3 weeks in hell so to say.

When i came home after 3weeks of hard work, it all started with my car getting rammed by a maniac..... no one hurt but the car. New fender and paintjob,,,,,,


The cat has eaten the vertikal fins on my stryker, a week to get a new pair, then the weather turned nasty,,,,,,,i know you guys says its fun to fly in bad weather but.....NOT this bad.

My wife's car catch fire and burns up. No one's hurt here either,,,,thank god


Hopefully im back in buisniss and get some flights before x-mas, weather is getting better but its still -5 degres c so its cold.yker


Strykerstriker

moparmyway

Strykerstriker,
Welcome back, sorry to hear of your massive hard times, really, and you cant fly..............thats just the pits.

Wish you could see just how fast and stiff the Stryk 1 is.............. and the now under construction Stryk 2 has become. Taking Gryphons "backbone" suggestion has produced what seems like a solid slab of Titanium.............uh, uummmm, yeah its just foam, but my imagination gets the best of me sometimes

I am waiting on a 5 cell 4100mAH (30c) battery for Stryk 2 and will be using a 2300kv killer motor before our secret weapon is released, should be here by Wed/Thur.

I found out the hard way that my Oracle has a shunt and wont work for the testing purposes we have deviousely planned. I will have to get a different data recorder, one with inductive an pickup and it looks like the Eagle will land in a Tree by me soon.

I will post pictures of Stryk 2 soon, but not yet, I still have plans of hacking yet to accomplish.

Did the cat puke?

Try to fly, even with numb fingers, its got to feel better than seeing both cars get trashed, sorry again...........and WELCOME BACK!!![sm=tongue_smile.gif]

__________________________________________________ ____

Gryphon,
Sorry I had to run, tomorrow same time if you can......................

Flightops_69

Hey all, my bird is still a hanger queen. Just need to fabricate 2 new stabs (hint hint strykerstryker, you can make your own from balsa wood, cheap and easy) Its been bad weather for Hawaii here, rain at 4inches an hour. (Thats ALOT of water) The adaptor I was using was the basic colette type when I had my "sudden departure from flight" to use an aeronautical term. Its all an easy fix, just need to have time to fix and fly her. Air Force is looking for UAV pilots in the enlisted ranks, thinking I might apply!

moparmyway

Flightops_69,
If I may......................
Please save yourself some aggravation and do NOT use balsa for your stabs. It breaks very easily across the grain. I made 3 sets that all broke from balsa before I started using 3/16 inch plywood. SSSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better and you can really give it a pounding, no breaking. I file the leading and trailing edges to a point, keeping overall height to just under 5.5 inches (it fits in the upper shelf on top of my spare tire in my trunk that way) and can do just about 6 corkscrews in 1 second without any "tailwiggle" in flight. Much more stable and they wont deflect during "evasive manuvers".

I will NEVER use balsa on stabs again................................. your call

On the collet thing, I just needed 3 stitches in between my index and middle fingers (palm side) from trying to remove a 7x5E APC prop. Seems the stinking mutha scratchin E props are not thick enough and cause the cone to bottom out on the threads, if you can neanderthal it to tighten it enough to fly, when you try to switch props, threads get stuck. So I tried to gorilla it off and sliced a good 1/2 inch deep into my left hand. I wonder if your collet wasnt tightened enough cause she bottomed out............what prop did you have on yours when she let go? Just thinking out loud here..............

chippedprop

Yes you can use 1/8 balsa for the fins................The trick is you Must cover them with Monokote and you Must have the grain in the wood at a 45 deg angle in respect to the plane.
I will agree that plywood will be stronger and a little heavier.

If I can get passed this week l'll have a slower time with work and theater production.


Cp

moparmyway

Strykerstriker, Flightops_69, Chippedprop,

Hey Chippedprop, good to hear from you, sorry your so busy lately.

Ok dudes, I suppose chippedprops suggestion would be much better than what I tried with the balsa fins, but shy of getting the mono, iron, heat gun, and removing all of the wrinkles, I guess I just wanted something strong and simple, so with a little smoke from my head, I came up with these, and I really have to say that I have NOT been able to destroy them, or even damage them in any way whatsoever. The Stryk 1 fins are 2 pieces, but the other 1 piece fins in the pics are stronger and are going in Stryk 2 and Stryk 3. I thought about covering them, but then I was thinking that the mono would get ripped, look ugly after a few of my landings, come loose, etc, so this is what I came up with. Best part is that they save my shafts from getting bent by protecting the prop on landings. It takes me 1 hour to make a set, including pointing. Roll rate is through the stratosphere, and in the other pictures you can see the rods are in the second hole from the top on elevons, well today I put them in the 3rd hole down, now you cant even count the rolls when you give full left or full right roll command.................amazing!!!!

moparmyway

Gryphon, Mr.Mugen
I will bet that you know what this is.................and now why I have a reason to get Eagletree

moparmyway

All,
Last 2 pics in post #1941 are pictures of Stryk 1 which is my fast flying testbed, and these are the under construction Stryk 2 (first 2 pics) and Stryk 3 (last pic)..........................looks like I have some decisdions to make about motor/prop and battery selections after I am done building these 2......................hhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnn nnnnnnn

i am SURE I can come up with something wicked and even faster than Stryk 1[sm=48_48.gif][sm=angry_smile.gif][sm=50_50.gif][sm=72_72.gif]

................................like ...............say..................for starters 5s-4100 @ 30c for Stryk 2[>:][>:][sm=lol.gif][&:]

.................................Stryk 3 is still being ironed out, but Mr. Mugen, you and Strykerstriker know more along with Gryphon-(hint hint)[&:][&:][&:][&:][>:][>:]

Gryphon

Wood parts can also be protected from elements by brushing them with epoxy. It can be mixed 50/50 with rubbing alcohol.
***Note, it will not increase working time of Epoxy, better use 30 minute epoxy and you better hurry up.
That is what I did to my Balsa-1/32" plywood covered elevons and hanged them(using a looped string) to dry for a day or two.......felt tacky for a long while.

_______________________

moparmyway,

Are those Klingon(spelling???) bird of prey vertical fins.....they are intimidating me...


I see you added the top C.F. to strengthen the bird in the first pic (of 3 pics).


***I know what that other part is...your pic gives it away with the wrapper just above it.....Switching from a Shunt design to a Hall Effect sensor that the other logger company uses for no resistance increase.
Your system resistance will be lowered slightly for a marginal RPM increase, not much, but it will be there...knowing its there is added bonus and smile.

_______________________

Also will try to meet with Chippedprop in Jan to fly the MEGA-Zilla II and capture the destruction of a new $290 battery 5S-5000 25C on film...not mentioning what else might be damaged in a probable crash....[8D]
Would be smart to remove the data logger for its second flight due to the weak 90 MPH prop till plane gets dialed in...that will be one less thing destroyed in a mishap.


I will start my next build in early Jan.

Hopefully some of the experienced folks will step in and help out with questions over the next week or so.
It appears that more and more people are coming out of hibernation and posting….

Come on guys share your stories on whatever Stryker related topic. This is a RALLY CALL.
How are you doing with your repairs, future plans, etc…..

***Can someone please do a write up on winter related issues to look out for as far as lipoly is concerned? See if you can use any of the things that were discussed somewhere in part 6 and add to it or reduce from it….whatever works for you.

I have 3000 miles of driving ahead of me during the next 2 weeks…..might become 4000 miles. I will drop in when and if I get near a computer. Hope to read a lot of posts form you. Love to see you guys help each other.

Gryphon

moparmyway

Here is my winter Lipo opservation- yesterday I flew the 6.5x6 with the 3850.................BUT I put the battery under my leg on the 1 hour trip and had the seat heater on, battery temp was 110f when I threw it in the air and what a difference. Battery wanted to drive that thing right into space to meet up with the mother ship which was cloaked right in lower orbit (that was for you Gryphon). I got an additional 1000 RPM's and 5amps and flew for 1 minute more than normal. OAT was 31 and was lightly snowing (which was colder than my LVCO other 2 attempts on 6.5x6 flights).

I think keeping the battery above 100 was the reason for this sudden boost in performance, so as soon as possible (weather permitting) I will put this to the 6.5x6.5 test and see if it holds full throttle for longer than 15 seconds. I will repeat my battery warm up on the drive to my secret field and put the throttle to the upper stop and wait for the 125 to beep twice. If I am correct, then I will start to see what 7 inch APC sport props are like for current draw in flight on the 3850 [>:][>:]

Gryphon, be carefull driving and keep one eye on the lookout for possibly quick flight pit stops.

sirpa

Hi !!

Still waiting for my medusa 28-40-2500 that should have already arrived . Received today some APC 6.5x6.5 and 6.5x6 . Should be nice with that motor with some 2450 ,2800 and 3000 mAh
3 S-25 C batteries .

It teases me to try one of thoses props on the stock stryker motor mounted inside my easystar . Would be overkill ?

I received yesterday a Funjet and SURPRISE : Mysteriously the package included a additional 3S polyquest 2500 mAh-25 C battery and the multiplex power setup which includes a Himax motor HA 2825-2700KV , a 37 A multiplex ESC , a prop and a shaft adapter + CA glue and accelerator.

this is a 250$ value of extras and I didn't paid a cent for it .......

Santa Claus exists !!!! Believe me all of you !!! I am his witness !!!

Anyway , couldn't sleep last night cause I felt like a robber too happy of his good fortune so I finally decided to send back the whole to that careless store . Not an easy decision cause that polyquest looks really nice and It's so expensive that I might never get any of thoses fines ones . Temptation to keep a least the batt. is very big !!!

Has anyone already tried that Himax motor ?

http://www.rctoys.com/rc-toys-and-pa...m=HI-2825-2700

I was thinking that I might keep it if they would offer me a good discount for my sincere repentance .. ...

This motor seems a bit on the heavy side : 138 g and is rated for 48 A max during 30 s. for only 400 W of power . Not much for such a weight ( 4.8 Oz for thoses who know nothing about the only measurement system in used in the civilised part of the Atlantic .... Sorry , had to say it .....)

What do you guys think about that motor ? How far could it be pushed ? Isn't it a bit heavy in a Funjet for only 400 W ?
My dons 2700 KV with APC 6x5.5 cut to 5.5x5.5 gives me not far from 500 W already and the weight is only half : 68 g for the dons instead of 138 for the Himax .

Thanks for your 2 cents ....

Sirpa

Gryphon

Friends don't let friends drive drunk.....woops..sorry, I meant to say friends don't let drunk friends buy Himaxx......sorry bad typing....let me try again.....friends don't let friends buy Himaxx motors. (yeah that's it).

They are inefficient. My buddy King_Paul "the motor abuser" fried 4 of their motors in 3 different KV in same size 2300KV, 2700KV, 3600KV. Same 2825 series.

The Himaxx used to run sizzling hot...I mean sizzling, you could hear metal. They are advertised at running at up to 210F or 212F temp wise....oh my god...[X(]


Gryphon

Flightops_69

K, I look into the plywood options. I love the Bird of Prey look. (Is that Klingon or Romulan model?)

Moparmy, she was a 7*4 prop apc prop. I dont think she was tightened enough. She climbed sooooo fast though!!!

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

One of my mates has this motor in a 36" delta wing. Batteries are the old TP 3 cell 2500 20C and 4000 15C (?) packs. Teeny-tiny 4" and 5" props, average current draw is 50+ A.

Rubbish.

There are better choices.

moparmyway

OK,
flew 6.5x6.5 yesterday with same battery prep (under leg with seat heater on high for 1 hour)..........................Had a 3 1/2 minute flight with Oracle on board. Battery temp seems to be a huge factor in its ability to deliver a high amp load. Readings were very impressive and no battery premature cutoff[sm=tongue_smile.gif]

I think its time for 7x6 prop with pre warmed 3s-3850...................can anybody say "NO WAY"[X(][:-][:@][&:][>:][sm=lol.gif][sm=48_48.gif]

__________________________________________________

Flightops_69,
I have only had problems with APC E props on my collet type prop adapters. They seem to be too thin and allow the nut to land past the last thread and into the shoulder, which boogers up the first thread on nut (cone). I just hold prop as I tighten or loosen nose cone, (three finger tight) APC sport props fit perfect and Gryphon is correct, they look sexy.

__________________________________________________

Sirpa,
I dont know if I would have sent it back, I would definately have called to inform them of their mistake,..............................
see what they say, maybe Santa Clause was on shift when your order was processed and you were a good boy this year
.........................eeerrrr,................a aahhhhh,.................uumm................now that I think about it, sounds like he also gave you a lump of himax.........I mean coal