parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
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parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
ok so im not pointing the finger at any certain person, but i was given advice on what to use for painting my trojan and it turned out looking like hell. at this point i dont even want to fly it, just curious as to what i can do to remove the layers of paint that are making it look so terrible. first off i wasnt told wether to sand the surfaces or to use any type of adhesive remover to remove any excess glus left behind from the decals. second i was told that the krylon h2o paint was foam safe but if thats the case then why am i getting bubbles in the foam and why is it showing extensive orange peel in the paint? i took all the proper steps that i was given to paint this bird and now i feel as though ive been lied too. im seriously doubting the level of experience i am getting from this forum considering my trojan looks like s@#% now. please any help as too how to undo this horrible paint job would be appreciated. at this point all i can think is to buy an entire new fuse and wing and not bother painting it, chris
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RE: parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
well i managed to salvage the trojans paint. took a days worth of sanding and peeling off the blue, but i did finally get the bird painted. ill have some pics up this afternoon after i get the final details finished. its gonna look sick once its finished. chris
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RE: parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
You can sand the plane fairly smooth. Go to the hardware store and buy some spackle ( kind of like plaster) and patch any divets. then sand smooth. I paint foam with water acrylic paints and airbrush but recently i have been getting lazy and just brushing it on. This way i can go to the dollar store and but paint.
hope this helps
hope this helps
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RE: parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
Krylon H2O is a latex spray paint. That means is is waterbased and yes it is foam safe. That being said it can be a pain to work with. You need to do multiple light coats, you can not try to cover in one coat. Also, being a latex paint, the nozzle tends to clog very easily. The smoother the surface, the better this paint looks.
Personally, I don't care for it.
You should always test out any paint on a test piece of foam if at all possible prior to diving in.
I've always had good success with Testors Model Master paints.
The key for a nice paint job on a foam plane is always to have a properly prep'd(like removing any old adhesive) and smooth a surface as possible, and light multiple coats. (light coat, let dry, light sand, light coat, let dry, light sand, etc...) The light sand step with a fine grit paper is optional. You may also have to do a primer step if you are attempting to go light over dark.
Personally, I don't care for it.
You should always test out any paint on a test piece of foam if at all possible prior to diving in.
I've always had good success with Testors Model Master paints.
The key for a nice paint job on a foam plane is always to have a properly prep'd(like removing any old adhesive) and smooth a surface as possible, and light multiple coats. (light coat, let dry, light sand, light coat, let dry, light sand, etc...) The light sand step with a fine grit paper is optional. You may also have to do a primer step if you are attempting to go light over dark.
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RE: parkzone trojan paint job went to s*@%
I have read that the paint in which you used for your Trojan is foam safe, but I believe that the propellant may have caused your result. It can be done but with multiple light coats.