critterhunter

Here's the rates I'm using that should make a good starting point for most people. Remember, I'm using HS81 servos (now called HS82's) with the control rod in the top hole of the servo arm and the second hole down on the stock horns. Ailerons are at 60% for lows and 95% for highs. Elevator is at 55% for lows and 80% for highs. Expotention is set at 20% for ailerons and 20% for elevator. Travel adjustment for the elevator and aileron is at the default 100%. I have my lows set up for mild loops and rolls and use it for landings, take offs, and low level flying to avoid over correcting. I have my high rates set for tight rolls and loops.

Took the Stryker and a few other planes out for some air time yesterday. I was flying the Stryker around at WOT when the motor suddenly stopped. It looked pretty cool as the plane trailed smoke behind it. I managed to get it to about 5 feet off the ground before the ESC's BEC went, so the landing was rough but no damage.

Turns out the Tower Pro 30 amp ESC went nuclear on me. It got so hot that the motor wires from it desoldered, the heat sink plate came off, and one of the ESC battery leads also came loose. The foam inside the ESC chamber melted some but that is hidden by the back cover when I put it on. The motor, RX, and battery look fine so I think I got lucky.

That's what you get for running a 30 amp speed control on a motor that is drawing around 30+ amps. I used to have an extra heat sink of this ESC (refer to old thread) to aid in keeping it cool but I had lost it a while back. I'll be throwing a Super Simple 40 amp ESC into it to hedge my bets for now on. I'm kind'a glad the Tower Pro ESC went, as the Super Simples (Suppos) are so much more efficient and the programming never changes for them. For now on I'll be buying Super Simples.

critterhunter

I haven't run into the problem of motor mount or body flex with the two carbon tubes crossing under the mount and the Extreme strapping tape folded over top to bottom under it. The 27C mount is pretty darn strong in my experience and will take a lot of abuse. I think I've only cracked one and that was after numerous bad wrecks.

Refer to later on in the old thread to read about a guy glassing his Stryker using sheets of carbon fiber and Kevlar (sp?).

HXT900 Servos: Yep, they are tough and great little servos. I'm currently flying them in a homemade glider with a 6 foot wingpsan using a HXT 35-36 1100 k/v motor. This plane is very fast and has unlimited verticle. Not a problem yet with these servos controlling this large/fast plane. I'd still suggest that Strker owners run HS81 (now called HS82) servos on it, but if you got to be cheap the HXT900 should work fine provided you link the control rod to the top hole on the servo arm and maybe the second one down on the horn to avoid undue stress.

critterhunter

I made a mistake here. I'm using the top hole on the stock control horn with these rates. Remember that setting your control rod up in this fashion will give you the most stick "feel" as to what the control surface is doing, rather than placing it further down on the horn. Your rates can easily be adjusted to give the proper amount of throw you desire in low or high rates. Giving yourself some Expo (20 to 25% or so) will smooth out small control inputs for making minor flight adjustments to the plane won't be as twitchy.

critterhunter

When gluing magnets to your canopy sometimes epoxy won't stick well even if I roughen up the plastic with sandpaper. I found that Shoe Goo (a rubberized glue used to repair shoes and such) sticks well and holds the magnets to the canopy without problems. Epoxy should work but if you are having problems try this stuff.

critterhunter

Here's a link to the old thread where I built a streamlined Stryker. You can really do much to increase the speed of a Stryker by slicking it down. It's a great way to salvage an old beat up body and remove damaged areas at the same time. This plane was VERY fast on the GBX triple stator motor with custom wind, much more so than the current stock body it's on. If you don't want to lose the identify of your Stryker but would like to streamline it a bit the first thing I'd do is sand down the fake air intakes on the sides of the battery chamber. A lot of drag there.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#6158664

Read the above link for a few pages to see all the mods. Later I did more to slick the airframe and this can be found here...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#7815723

critterhunter

Here's a neat little free software program that will take your audio recordings of a plane doing a fly by and compute air speed. Several of the people I fly with use it (this is our local "club" forum). From what I've read it's very accurate, more so than onboard sensors that can be fooled. This thread also contains some other useful info on using it. I feel it's much safer than trying to point a radar gun at a plane as it flies directly at you, and less hassle than throwing expensive electronics into a plane to measure air speed as well.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=doppler

critterhunter

Have to show off my latest EPS scratch build. After sitting for about a year I've finally got the FW42 German bomber ready to maiden. If she flies then I'll doll her up with landing gear and make her look pretty. Canard incidence and COG can be tricky to get right on a canard setup.

Current AUW is 31.5 ounces. Not too bad. The two custom winded 2409-18 motors are I think around 1300 k/v and swinging 8x6 contour rotating props. She'll easily do unlimited verticle in my static run tests. Speed shouldn't be too bad, either. Wing loading is about 12 to 13 ounces so she should float pretty well too.

Using dual 40 amp Super Simple Escs. HS81 servos. GWS RX.

Although the Germans built wind tunnel models of this plane it never made it into production. The plans were found years later in the rubble of a complex. She's a rare bird in RC. I've currently only been able to track down 5 RC builds, and out of those only three survived the maiden.

Excuse the rough foam in some spots. I had to modify a few things. All that will be hidden when I cover it anyway, if and when it flies...

critterhunter

Took the Stryker out yesterday after installing a 40 amp Super Simple ESC and extra heat sink. Lost it in the sun and when it came out of it the bird was in a death spiral. Managed to crash it into the only patch of cement around. Plane only has minor damage in the nose area, mainly a piece of chunked foam where one of the magnets glued into the front of the fuse. Will repair easily. I'm surprised at just how well it survived this impact on cement. Have to check the servos as I think one of them might have been stripped, causing the spiral.

critterhunter

Figured out why the 30 amp ESC burned up in the Stryker. After replacing it with a 40 amp I lost control the other day. No damage and couldn't find any problems as to why it lost power. Thought it was a glitch. The other day I took it up again and this time I heard something that didn't sound right and lost power again. Again, no damage, but this time I found that one of the motor bearings was binding badly. Seems that probably caused the 30 amp esc to burn up by over amping it, and was the reason why I lost power the last two times as it would freeze the motor when it got hot enough, and shut the BEC down on thermal overload...thus no control. At least the plane has no damage.

I'm done with the FW42. After it's first nose in maiden I raised the ailerons with the flap switch to force it to keep the nose up on launch. This time it launched but had way too much climb. Killed the flap switch and it dropped it's nose and crashed. Major damage since I hadn't sheeted the fuse yet. Done with canards. The gear is going into the P38.

Bird of prey made it's maiden yesterday. Since the suggested COG was about 1.68" ahead of the wing I went for 2" to be safe. It was WAY too nose heavy and dug the nose into the ground. I adjusted the elevons for more lift. Max possible, but still it nosed in. No damage. It did track well I just couldn't keep the nose up. I'm guessing that I have to move the COG back at least an inch because extreme climb trim would not compensate. Any opinion on if 1" is going to be too much or not enough? I'm guessing it might not even be enough but would rather lean nose heavy. I'm fairly confident this plane will fly well because it felt good despite not being able to lift the nose.

Dreadan

My Feedback: (2)

critterhunter could you post a few more pictures of your modified motor mount. Little hard to tell from the one picutre how you did it.

critterhunter

Check the old thread on the first few pages or so. Might be better pictures there. If they are of no help then let me know and I'll take some more and post them. It's pretty easy to do. Take either some thin aluminum or a plastic bottle cap and grind/cut/whatever it down to a disc that will just sit inside and snug against the back inside of the F27C mount. Epoxy it in place. Now mark and drill your motor's mounting plate holes onto the back. Pay no attention to the 27C's motor holes if they don't line up. You don't need them. If you used a bottle cap then just heat up a small nail and melt out the holes where you want them. Best to use something like button bolts with washers and nuts but you can just use sheet metal screws. Regardless of what you use be sure to dab some nail polish on them to prevent them vibrating out. I like to do this even with the grub screws on my motors to prevent this. The nail polish will easily crack and allow you to remove it later.

Hagar69

Critter,
Good to see you are still running a Stryker thread. I have been away from the forum for a while, but have been busy flying my Stryker and many other planes.

I still run the 1700 kV motor I talked about last year. I use a 4S 25C pack, 7x5 propeller and 40A ESC. It gives a very good combination of speed and thrust.

If you guys want more speed, I can recommend this motor: [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8138&Product_Name=Turnigy_2836_Brushless_EDF_Motor_3200 kv]3200 kV 650W motor[/link]

Run this motor on a 4S 25C or 30C pack using a 50A ESC and APC 4.75x4.25 or 4.75x4.75.
It will sound like a jet and the speed is jet-like as well.

I have the above setup on a Hobby Lobby Lynx at the moment, it is a smaller and more streamlined plane than the Styker. But it is scary fast [X(]
A friend of mine have the same setup on his Stryker, it really moves.

I'll try to get back soon with some details on how I install a stick mount on the Stryker, I believe it is the simplest and strongest way of mounting any motor on this bird.
Oh, I plan to build a Stryker with thrust vectoring and rudders, think it will be very cool.

Happy flying!

Hagar

critterhunter

Hagar, good to see you back! Wanted to make a new thread with less ramble and more to the point. Yea, please post some info. I posted the information from the original thread of your message concerning that motor.


I've been asked what the magnets look like from Pat Cattans (they might sell them at other craft stores as well). Here's a photo from the original thread of them. They are very strong. I no longer sink dowl rods to secure them to. Putting a good amount of epoxy into the foam is more than enough to secure them.

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Hello Critterhunter...How do you attach the outrunner to the Stryker stock C motor mount? I am looking at the picture of yours and I am guessing you are using a broom handle cut to one inch and then attached the motor... How close am I... thanks... Richard

critterhunter

No...No boom handle. It's VERY simple. Grind a disc of aluminum or a bottle cap so that it's just big enough to fit inside and at the back of the F27C mount. Epoxy in place. Take your motor's mounting plate and put it up against the back of the mount and mark it's screw holes. Drill or melt them out. Attach it with bolts or sheet metal screws and dab some epoxy or nail polish on them to keep from vibrating out. Install motor. Easy as pie.

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

O.K. Critterhunter.... I now see what you are saying... I had read the older post on the motor install but did not fully understand... Thanks.. Richard

critterhunter

In light of some recent questions and emails concerning certain motors, I figured I’d start posting some reviews of various motors that Stryker owners are using. The first below is the 2835 3900 k/v Turnigy inrunner motor. I edited through the Hobby City reviews to list Stryker performance reports, amp draw and other data on various props, as well as EDF info using the Hobby City 2.5 and 2.68� EDFs. I'm not a fan of inrunners on the Stryker as I think outrunners are more suitable. However, if you want to go that route for high RPMs then this motor will "keep it cheap", as I'm a big fan of doing.

Please note that this motor will give better performance on the 2.5� EDF as that is a better “clone� . Also note that the 2.68� EDF will give more thrust on the E500 (?) outrunner motor rather than the 2835. Read the reviews below the EDFs for info on that. When I was shopping for best EDF performance on a 3 cell a year or so ago the 2835 gave the most thrust on a 3 cell for 2.5�. It would be interesting to hear if the E500 has been used on the 2.5� with a 3 cell and what kind of amps it draws.

(QUOTES FOLLOW)

I purchased this item a month ago. I have over 50 flights on it. It still runs awesome after repeated use and abuse. I Placed it in my Stryker (F27C) with a 54 amp esc and a 6x4 APC prop. It's pulling 56 amps full throttle but only requires half throttle to fly it nice and fast. Sounds like real jet passing by and the extreme speed satisfies the speed freak in me. Spectators are amazed by this inexpensive motor. It was shipped immediately, great packaging, great quality and incredible price. Thank you Hobby City. -Chicago, Il.

Motor works perfect.
I have tested it with speed prop 4,7 x 4,7
LOONG MAX 1800 25C:
max 55 A 29.500 Rpm
Now I fly with limited on 26.000 rpm and 39 A.
Incredible !

F27C Stryker:
54 amps on 6x4 apc prop, using 3 cell (2100) lipo.
59 amps on 6x5.5 apc prop, 3cell (2100) lipo.

Had this motor a few months without any problems. Still pulling same amps tested from day one. Highly recommended for high-speed passes and climbing fast. Using with an F27C Stryker (36" Delta wing).

I use this motor on my funjet with a 3s1p/3300mAh-Zippy-Pack and a Turnigy Plush 60A Esc. It is getting very warm on all used props, but is performing well.

Here are some numbers:
Prop / RPM / Thrust(g) / Current(A)
APC 4,75x4,75 / 26420 / 664 / 45
APC 5,25x4,75 / 23380 / 795 / 50
APC 5,5x4,5 / 23520 / 1025 / 50
APC 6x4 / 22200 / 1125 / 52

I've very pleased with this motor , i actually tried with 2 different configuration , prop and EDF

Fit in EDF 5Blade 2.68inch 68mm
ESC 36H HXT 22003s reading 32A at full power 630g static trust...this is on my modified funjet and it flies pretty well

Fit with APC 4,75x4,75

Excellent choice! Bargain !

With Loong Max 1800 3S 25C:
Speed cam Graupner prop little shorten from 4,75 on 4,2 x 4,75: 27.000 rpm/40 A
Limited on TX because w/o limit will turn over 30.000 /50 A +

And still works perfect (after more than 20 Pylon races...)

P.

I'm building a speed plane to enter RCgroups contest to reach 100mph for $100 (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772623)
With this motor, a 2200 HobbyCity LiPo and a TowerPro L40-acro ESC I have a setup that gives me about 116mph pitch speed on a APC 4.1x4.1
HC really contributes to the R/C hobby by making it affordable. Thanx

The HXT 3900kv runs well on a 3s 1800mah 25c.Using a 4.1*4.1 APC propeller.Current draw is 29amp at 30,000 rpm. Shaft size is 3.2mm not 3.175mm

installed one on my foam electrajet,using ASP 4.1*4.1,HXT 2200Mah Lipo and this litte guy goes over 90mph!!!(meaured with a speedmeter).
Endurance 5 min. Motor and lipo slighty warm.
Props over above size not suitable!!!(unless you don't want things to last)
Happy fast flying!!!

This is your 100 mph funjet motor. Needs 2100mAh 25C lipo for balance, and don't go over 4.75x4.75 on the prop. Wow this set-up is awesome. Turns 28,000 rpm static with this set-up and pulls 50 Amps. Motor can handle the unloaded power in flight.

I've been waiting for United to get a motor like this... This is an nice alternative to Warp4 or Mega 16/15/X motors. It is not an exact substitute for a particular wind of either motor, but an "in-between". It weights 3.2oz vs. about 2.7oz for the others. Diameter is slightly larger than 28mm, so it can be a snug fit on a Cobri 28 gearbox depending on the pinion you use. (I had to shave my Cobri 28 slightly with a milling machine to get a good gear mesh)

Great motor. Paired with a 68mm EDF it is pulling just over 30 amps and providing over 600gr of thrust. I am using a 2500mah 3 cell lipo. A smaller battery will give you very little flight time. The larger the battery the better with this motor. You will not be dissappointed with this motor. I use mega motors and these are not as good, but comparable especially for the price.

This motor whit edf 2.68 inch and 3S Lipo Battery provides
a 500 gr thrust and absorb 28 A
We use two on F 14 EPF with good results!

I mated this motor up to this EDF fan:
EDF Ducted Fan Unit 5Blade 2.68inch 68mm
and it makes an amazing amount of thrust. This one will go into a A6 Intruder which has been sitting on the sideline because of it's brushed setup.

The fan pulls about 33A with this setup and really moves out. I have not taken an efflux reading

Good product. I used 40A ECS and 3 cells 2200mah battery and 6x4 prop. At full throttle, it burns 45A at static. I am going to put that in F27C

Based on the above I thought I'd give this motor a try on my F-27C Stryker as well WOW, it's a rocket! With a T-Bird 54 ESC, 6x4 and flying w/ an EagleTree the motor pulled 64.5 amps on a vertical climb out, I'm lucky I didn't loose it! The climb was unlimited yikes! Next I tried a 5.75x3 and the motor pulled 54 amps and within two flights cracked my reinforced motor mount. I'll be rebuilding w/ a better mount just to fly this motor!

this motor is amazing comparing it to my $120 Steve neu motor, the hex motor is heavier but can run just as hard for a fraction of the price. barely gets warm on my 36 inch foam flying wing.

I bought 2 (1 for backup) of these for my parkzone stryker and man does it move. I use a APC 5.5x4.5 speed prop, 60amp ESC, 2200 zippy battery and it has to be close to 100 mph passes.

great motor 50 + flights with no problems

I now have 5 of these motors. I use them in Park Zone Strykers,with a 40amp super simple esc and use them for combat. this make a great and inexpensive combination for the Stryker. Now more than a dozen people in my club are all using them. We have had great luck with them and when I need more I will be getting on here and getting them from Hobby City. Thanks HC for providing a great product at a great price.

Wow, I have been using this with my F27c reliably. Using the standard prop, it has near unlimitied vertical. The motor is hot, but touchable after running it hard. Such a good deal.

I put this motor in an Ultrafly F16 with a 5/2.5 prop. With a 3s Loong Max 2250 15/25.It will accelerate vertically and in level flight at full power it screams along at +/-120 mph. Motor temp is warm but not hot. It outperforms other motors I've had that cost 3 times as much. PS, not for the faint of heart!

critterhunter

When I created this part two thread it was for several reasons. The most important of which was to show the strength and ease of use mods that were proven in days past on the Dark Side threads. The other important reason to me was to try to re-capture the original theme or "flavor" of that thread, which was "build it fast and buy it cheap."

I was constantly impressed by the resourcefulness of Stryker owners in finding cheap ways to mod the plane and of course cheap electronics to save money. The original huge thread had something about "F27" in the tittle and no mention of "Dark Side"...that came later. In those early days, brushless motors and lipos were just coming out. Most were not cheap, and so it became a major driving force for many to find something cheap that worked just as well and beat the system, so to speak.

That was what attracted me to this plane and that thread, along with several that would follow and now included "Dark Side" in the title. I remember the dreaded tail heavy F27Bs that cost many people sleepless nights, or talk of water breaking in the brushed motor in order to squeeze more out of it (A GG tip, if I remember right!), just to name a few.

As later parts of those threads came to pass I feel the original theme was lost and perhaps, at least in my view, even looked down on. Researching electronics that were cheaper and might even be better was more attractive to me than throwing money at it, and so I drifted away.

Different people have different goals and ways to get there. If spending whatever it takes is the way you want to go then this thread isn't for you. If, however, you like the challenge of researching what might and can be cheaper, or better, or both...then I hope you might find something in this thread useful. At least feel free to ask, recommend, or suggest without fear. That's what the "good old days" were all about.

The final reason why I created this part two thread was to try to avoid the politics and ramblings of the old one. Now that I've broken probably both of those intentions, I'll at least say that this is my final word...in public or private on the matter. If you don't understand what I'm talking about or where I'm coming from then I will once again encourage newbies to start where it all began. Start with the original F27 thread and you'll see the history, the experimenting, the failed solutions, and the eventual progress that created a rich heritage and made that thread and this plane a legend to many.

Now, back to the intent of this thread. I've been receiving emails from people asking more about certain motors. Rather than keep replying in private I'll start posting more reviews and net data on various motors that people have asked about, or others have been using on their Stryker...

critterhunter

The Turnigy 2700 k/v 2835 motor might prove more of a desirable k/v for a Stryker than the 3900 k/v one. Here are some reviews of it and a link to the motor.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4201

I am using this Inrunner with an 5x5 or 5x4,3 Prop with the HXT 36 A ESC, 2200mah 3S HXT Lipo in my new Funjet and i am very impressed of the Performance.

I measured on an conusmtion of 24A with the 5x5 APC Prop. I will try next time the 5x6,25 APS Prop.

The speed is nearly the same as the suggested MPX InrunnerSet.

Motor, ESC and Lipo are really cool after an appr. 14min intermediate flight

Wont write war n peace about the color! As far as I know no model ever crashed because of the color of the motor or sticker. Motor is ideal on 3S and works best with 5.5x4.5 prop around 280W @ 26A ideal for Funjet - Remember USE a WATMETER First.

Great little inrunner. Pulling about 24amps with a 5.5x5.5 on a fresh charge rhino 11.1 20c. I think a 6x3 would work well.

more tests using APC props:
5x5 10.97V 22.2A 19470rpm
5.5x4.5 10.95V 22.5A 19140rpm
5.25x4.75 10.93V 21.9A 19200rpm
6x4 10.86V 24.4A 18030rpm

Excellent choice for the Stryker. With a 6x4 prop it'll draw about 29Amps and give unlimited vertical performance. With a 3S 2200mAh Lipo flight times are about 8 minutes with some throttle management. Great motor at a great price

Wow super fast.
This puppy went into my Parkzone Stryker.
Specs:
Zippy Lipo 11.1v 2200mah 20c 3s
Super Simple 40 amp Speed Controller
Prop 6x4E
This pulls 32 amps at full.

I mounted this motor on my Stryker and never looked back. Stryker flies like a bat out of hell. Fly faster and quieter that the motor the stryker f-27c came with. After a good hard and fast run the motor is not to hot. I can put my hand on the motor and not send myself to ER room with 3rd degree burns. Great motor. Oh i using a 25A ES

this is an awsome motor for a stryker i also proped it with a apc5.5x4.5E and it screams and you cant beat the price

Running this motor on a Stryker with a 6x4 prop. Pulls close to 30Amps and gives 88MPH level flight according to the EagleTree Air Speed Indicator. Using a 3S 2200mAh 25C LiPo for about 9-minute flights. Great motor!

Very nice motor for the price, using it as a replacment motor for the 1880Kv motor supplied with the F27 Stryker C by Parkzone.
I have to say using a 5.5 X 4.5 Prop as suggested in one of the reviews, keeps the motor and the ESC cool and gives very nice performance.

I have included a brief clip of me flying it on Youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZ2A2UJxCIc

Have fun Flying!

Awesome little motor for any plane like the Stryker. Gives unlimited vertical at 28Amps on a 3S 2200mAh 25C LiPo using a 6.5x5 prop.
Dozens of flights and still going strong.
Thanks for the great deal HobbyCity!

I have to get off the computer for now but will have more reviews of this motor to post next time.

critterhunter

A couple more reviews of this motor. I'm going to get a bit more picky and mainly post specific Stryker remarks from the reviews on these motors as there is so much to sift through. I will post some non-Stryker remarks that list prop/amp draw data as well. I'm also compiling a motor chart with all these motors listed for easy reference on things like prop size, amp draw, potential MPH (prop speed), etc. If you are interested in one of these motors I'd suggest you go to the link and read all the reviews of it before making a decision. I mainly wanted to list an edited version to make it easy to find specific Stryker information.

(QUOTES)
got this motor for my f27c stryker to replace my tired old stocky.only 2 screws would fit so a couple of drops of medium c.a. here and there problem solved.fitted with the TGS 5x5 prop was pulling 27amps and about300w.a little bit of power loss comered to stockmotor but the striker still had plenty of speed.at 80-85mph.will try the 6x5 tgs next order.great motor for a replacement & cant beat the price.good s**t HK keep it up

running on a stryker 3s flightpower 2170, 5x5 apc 260watts and 28.5 amps, 6x4 apc 305 watts and 32amps and it fits stock f27c mount.

HXT 2445 (370L) 2900kv Brushless Inrunner

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=4197

Powers my STRYKER with 3 LiPO and a 5x5 at exactly 30A, very quick.

I installed one of these on a flat foam profile F-14 and whoa! I was running a GWS 4053 prop, pulling as high as 27A at full throttle. This motor is a screamer for fast applications with small props. Very nice construction and it seems to take the punishment very well.

Awesome screamer! I flew my TT Velocity with new 3s1700 battery, 36A and 23000rmp static, about 1000g static thrust WOT with master airscrew 6*3. Noise was something, like a pig being killed -) Nice with a plane that has 550g AUW... Unlimited accelerating vertical climb! But I broke the axle on a not-so-nice-landing Only bad thing of this engine. I'll get another one.

critterhunter

FC 28-12 Brushless Outrunner 1534kv

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=5423

I have multiple planes with this motor. The FC28-12 brushless motor is comparable to the BP-21 in performance. Perfect size with a sport 7X6 prop at 17A to carry a 15 oz plane at 70 MPH.

I like the motor but have had trouble with what I thought originally was bearings on three motors but ended up being debris on the magnets. This debris looked like fragments of a broken magnet but all of the magnets in the motors were intact. All of the motors came on the same order.

It's a little difficult to clean magnet fragments off of the magnets. The E clip was easy to remove and it was easy to remove the shaft. I used a dry cloth, toothbrush and air compressor and finally got the magnets clean and saw a drastic improvement in motor performance.

I will buy more of these motors but if they grind at all I will check the magnets and bearings.

Amazing power to weight on my stock stryker 134kph 7x6 apc style prop 30amp esc 2200mah 20c approx 15min flite time full power all the way battery get warm motor stays cool only down side as pusher setup puts load on the small bearing tends to not last long but for the money just buy some more for spares easy to mount on brushless mount put motor on outside and if you got a spare motor put removeable mounting plate on in side of mount and bolt together you wont be dissapointed good chea

critterhunter

Turnigy C35-30 1400kv Bell Motor 30A

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=5244

Good specs for a motor of this size and would make a excellent stryker motor but my one never even got to get to full throttle with a 7x6 before the chrome bell seperated from the gold hub that holds the shaft.
The gold aluminium hub is held to the chrome bell buy a aluminium nut about 1.5mm thick with only 3 threads in it and no locating flats to stop it from turning in the bell so the torque of the bell is transfered to the shaft by the friction of that little nut so its not if it will fail but when. Very dissapointed with what would have been a great motor.

critterhunter

After the BP21 (2408-21) a year or so later the 2409-12T came out and was very popular among Stryker owners. It provided really good speed and unlimited vertical with plenty of torque. I ran an 8x6 APC E prop on this motor. This is over propping it and drew about 30 amps. I would not suggest running anything bigger than an 8x6 because that’s already red lining the motor. I think anything bigger will push it over the edge.

NOTE: The 2409-12D is a better design (not a bell style) and, even though the specs are the same, it can handle more amps due to it’s build. I would suggest anybody considering this motor to go ahead and opt for the D version since it’s only a few dollars more. I’ve also read of people running I think 8x7 props or bigger on the D without overheating it. The more solid construction helps bleed off any heat better.

TowerPro Brushless Outrunner 2409-12T

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=2046

This motor is excellant value for the price. 200 watts for less than $10! I fly this motor on my F-27 Stryker and it has been radar gunned at 82mph. I use a BM2409 motor, 7x6 APC prop, 35Amp speed control and United hobbies 3S1P 2200mah 20C Lipoly battery. 190 watts in a 20oz plane. That is about 140 watts per pound! The short, thick shaft takes a beating and has not bent yet! Mine has 100+ of flights on it . I now own 4 of them and my flying buddies have a bunch too! Put this motor in any 16-30oz plane for great power to weight performance. I know a group of flyers who are racing GWS Formosa's with these and are rippng up the sky. Great motor. Great price. No problems.


I use this motor in my F27C Stryker and with a 3-cell LiPo battery, it flies fantastic! Unlimited vertical.

I used the stock motor mount with a 2-liter soda bottle cap to mount the motor. What a great motor.

The motor does get warm after flights, but only really hot on warm days.

I use a 7x5 prop with this motor. Just great

put this on my stryker b model took the base off and epoxied it to the stryker mount then put motor back in the base and it lined up nicely.ran a 7x4 apc prop the plane launched nicely and went vertical easily.straight speed guess is maybe 50-60

Got this one as combo, very good deal and this CD-ROM motor performs better than many others. I put it on static thrust test. Look for yourself on these data.

GWS9050HD 2-blade 17A,7V,123W,25oz,203oz/Kw
GWS9050HD 2-blade 18.35A,7.5V,139w,26.8oz,193oz/kw
GWS8040 3-blade 14.57A,7.48V,105W,21.1oz,201oz/kw
GWS8040 3-blade 15.24A,10.5v,160w,163oz/kw
GWS8040 3-blade 14.57A,7.48V,105W,21.1oz, 201oz/kw
GWS8040HD 2-blade 11.67A,7.41V,84w,18.3oz,218oz/kw

2/28/2008 PFU

This motor is great. 3s 9x5 gets hot. 2s gave me the better results on 8x5. Pleanty of thrust and 7 min of flight time for 1100Mh 2s. Reduced throtle to 60% and I get 11 minutes.

Hi,
I take this motor for the UH (HC now) P40 results with power analyser :

with UH 8*6 APC Style :
22A 280W 11.1V 1700 10/15C
28.5A 325W 11.1V 2200 20/30C

With UH 9*6 APC style:
29.2A 300W 11.1V 1700 10/15C
Don't make with the 2200 20/30C for don't burn the motor !
I give on the 1700 10/15C 11.1V with the 8*6.
Very good motor with very hight thrust !!!!

Installed on a 100% 25oz AUW Super Bandit. Gives 30oz thrust with 7x5 APC drawing 20A/220W on a 3S2100 15C. Cut a groove or ride a fast rail with this one.

Great little motor for the price. It handles loads upto about 30A (full throttle at 3S using a 8x6 prop) without overheating. There 9x6 is too much so don't try!
I use 2 of these on my twinstar and they give near vertical performance. Topspeed is around 130km/h in this configuration

critterhunter

Turnigy B36-40-05 3900kv Inrunner

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=6533

Ordered a HXT but got a Turnigy. This motor is a barn burner, I put on a BP Hobbies Dragon with a 5" pusher prop and it hauls it at an awesome speed well over 80 mph, more like a 100, alot faster than a stock Stryker F27c. Motors pulls about 34 amps and runs very cool with a heat sink I installed. Using HXT 3cell 2100mah lipo's gives close to 10 mins flying time. I have many flights on this motor with no problems, highly reccomend this motor (Turnigy).

Very efficient motor. I am very impressed. I used it to replace a brushed pusher in a Swift semi-glider.
The brushed motor was producing 350 watts at 11500 RPM on 3s LI-POs. This Turnigy crashed my battery at 41 amps which gave 320 Watts and 18500 RPM.With a good battery it would easily reach its 390 Watt spec. Vertical climbing but a little over gunned. Bob

critterhunter

Turnigy B36-50-06 2300kv Inrunner

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=6529

This is a great stryker motor makes it go at least 100mph recomend motor.

Makes my Stryker rock @ 112mph level so far.

This is a great motor, especially for this price. It ran very nice on 4S 2500mah and 40a reg on my stryker!!! sickspeed with 7x6 propeller!!!!!! you will bee the fastest stryker flyer