mad web tv scientist

Dr., great to see you back! Your enthusiasm and wisdom have been missed.

One other thing that might cause trouble - check to be sure the small slits are clear/large enough so they can be made to grip the motor shaft when the funnel is tightened down on them. If the slits are not wide enough to allow compression friction on the motor shaft that could be a problem.

You are on your way now, thanks everybody.

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DenverJayhawk

the prop seems to be holding. I just tested it out. The cowling also took a beating in the first crash after after about 30 or so flights. They say duct tape can fix anything. Well today I learned that 3M clear packing tape makes a great temporary fix to hold together the plastic cowling. I have a new cowl on order at my LHS. I have to admit the beat up cowl makes this model look a little more authentic.

The spinner backplate rubs against the cowling now, so I have it removed. I couldn't get it so that it wouldn't touch the cowling when I had the prop nut fully torqued. I guess I'll have to go with out it for now.

Going to try out the new Zippy 2200s this evening. Can't wait.

grendel2000

Small update:

Flew today with new batteries for the first time. I have been using PZ 1300mAh batts and purchased 2 Flightmax 2200/20C batts to try out. Launched the plane and immediately had issues with roll off to the right - tried compensating all the way up to trim limits but still had slight roll to the right, but flyable. Also had a hard time getting the elevator trim set - it just wanted to climb.

I decided to land and take a look - it made no sense to me that a CG shift from the larger battery should cause a ROLL... Tried to land and had an issue - landed long and was forced to make a decision between letting it glide off of a plateau at the end of the park (kind of a two tiered deal to keep the playing field level - the drop is about 15 ft over a distance of 40 ft, then a cast iron decorative fence / or try to go around for another pass but risk the trees on climbout. I let it glide and never saw what happened.

The good news is that the plane was fine - only the canopy came off. What's weird is that the left side of the elevator was bent severely downward. Its edge was bound up under the edge of the turnbuckle for the optional rudder pushrod I have added. The mystery is whether it went there during the crash or if it may have been that way upon launch, thereby causing the trim problems. Seems like the trim problems would have been much more severe with a fully split elevator. Bad on me for having a poor enough preflight inspection regimen that I'm not sure of the answer. I need to fix that.

I pushed it back up and was able to "eyeball" the two sides of the elevator back even and went for a flight with the older (original) battery. It felt VERY different. It needed MUCH more throttle. I still had some roll issues (but much more minor) - I figure I probably had bad eyeball calibration on my part fixing the elevator.

Anyhow, flew for a bit then managed to hit a baby tree - the little b@stard! The one friggin tree in the whole park that is a potential problem and I managed to hit it... It's really just a tall sapling about 20 ft hight and no more that 2 inches wide at the base. Alas, I approached the wounded bird with fear that it must surely be completely destroyed, but I was WRONG!

Total damage: one chunk out of the leading edge of the starboard wing (1 inch long x 1/2 inch deep) and the main wing popped out of the two retaining holes on the back where it is held into the fuselage. The screw stayed in - it appears that the fuselage flexed enough to let the wing pop out with no damage.

Now my decision is whether to repair the wing with a small strip of duct tape to maintain the contour of the leading edge or if I should mix some form of filler? Suggestions?

In any case, I'm shocked that I've now crashed this thing three times HARD and have yet to have to replace a single part! God bless CA glue, Horizon Hobby and the GUNFIGHTER!

Viragored

My little dings are all filled with foam, the original foam if I can find it at the crash site (but not necessarily in the original places...), bits of foam from packing that came with other models, or just bits of foam from any old where. After trimming to shape with a sharp knife and a quick dab of paint, they're hardly noticeable. And I think gluing a patch in adds a tiny bit of strength that I might need one day.

Good luck and have fun!

Dave

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

Yep, all those crash "scars" just give it "character"!

I've got a Stryker with about 40+ glue lines where it has been glued back together after several crashes. Still flies nice and straight.

If this is the first time you're trying the larger/heavier 2200 packs, be sure to carve some foam so it stays low in the fuse and it's not pushing up on the canopy (good way to loose the canopy). Also be sure to try to space it back 1/4" or so with some foam to help balance it out a little better. It will still be relatively nose heavy, so you may need a click or two of up elevator trim, and rolls won't be as pretty (need to push some "down" elevator as you go inverted to keep it level). The added weight and forward CG with the 2200s will also make it drop faster when you kill the throttle, so be sure to be within a few feet of the edge of your landing strip when you kill the motor to dead stick land it.

I've flown mine quite a bit with 2200s, and this past week I put the 1300s back in (spaced back 1/4" from stock location) just to try them out again. It does fly much nicer with the lower weight and the CG further back with those packs. Someday maybe I'll try a more radical mod and get the 2200 pack moved further back by rearranging the receiver and batt locations. Sounds like a lot of work, though, and I like flyin' them as is, so not sure when I'd get to that!

DenverJayhawk

well, on the first flight with the 2200, i crashed it. It was pretty windy and I was too confident and flying too low and lost control in a low turn into the wind. I was able to avoid a total destruction, but it cartwheeled. Damage isn't that bad except that the nose broke off just in front of the wing. I already have it glued back together. I can see why people like foamies. The repair only took about 15 minutes and some epoxy. It does seems to be missing that smooth like motion while in the air with the 2200 batts. Anyway, it's repaired and ready to fly again. Just waiting for some good weather. It's been crazy windy, up to 70mph in some areas.

DenverJayhawk

PKH - I'm relieved to report four successful flights on the zippy 2200s. I have noticed though that the handling with the extra weight makes it more touchy. You basically have to really stay on it. I took my eyes off for one second and next thing it was dive bombing to the ground. As you said, landings are a little more challenging too. With the stock 1300 batt, it basically just floats in with no adverse roll or yaw. But with the 2200s, you do have to fly it in and it stalls rather quickly when flaring for the landing. Not a big deal, but definitely more involved than with the stock 1300 batt. I have the timer set to 8.5 mins with the zippys. What kind of times are you getting with the 2200s?

Dr_Bojangles

Try moving everything as far back as you can, but be mindful that the canopy will still fit and close. Use a new #11 X-Acto blade to trim out some of the slope of the floor to get the battery rearward. Use the same #11 blade to remove or notch the underside of the canopy as needed

Apply a strip of velcro in the floor of your enlarged battery tray (a little hot melt glue helps the velcro to stay stuck) and the other piece of velcro to your batteries. But, BE SUREyou can still use the battery straps.

When you use the 2200s, place them a little further back, button everything up (flight ready, but without hooking up the battery leads) then turn your Mustang over and check your Center of Gravity (CG) on your finger tips. Once you're happy with the CG, open it back up, hook up the battery and go.

I fly 2700 Thunder Power Pro Lite batteries in my Mustang all the time.

Dr.B

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

I set my TX timer for 4 minutes when flying the 1300mAh packs, and 6 minutes when flying the 2200mAh packs. I typically pull about 2/3 of my pack capacity this way. This doesn't stress my packs as much as running them down to LVC (low voltage cutoff), and it gives me a good buffer if I need to go around a few more times before landing (in case someone else is landing, on the field, etc.).

Keep in mind, if you're pulling about 18A with the stock setup, at full throttle you will get a max of 4.3 mins with a 1300mAh pack, and 7.3 mins with a 2200mAh. I don't typically fly full throttle all the time, but I usually fly close to it, so I like to be sure my timer settings are at or below these max WOT flight times.

DenverJayhawk

Thanks, Dr_Bo. I actually did everything you suggested before the flight. I also added a small block of foam to insert underneath the esc so that the battery pack doesn't slide forward, but made it short enough that air can still flow into the area for cooling the esc. Though I think I'll try to remove even more foam on the slope of the floot to get the pack even further back.

mad web tv scientist

P-51 AIR SUPERIORITY

The brutal reality of actual Park Flyer battle conditions continues to prove that the model of the greatest fighter of all time seems to definitely be in the process of becoming the greatest RTF model fighter, possibly of all time much like its full scale counterpart. As many GUNFIGHTER pilots are enjoying, in contrast with the menacingly impressively valiant but more fragile enemy Messerschmitt flyers are
experiencing, the 51's combat survivability is proving to be far superior for those of us who are compelled to push the very edge of our fighter performance envelop.

Mustangs are now solidly my weapon of choice for the most difficult missions. Once these missions are accomplished other less capable fighters are then used to mop up any residual pockets of enemy resistance. Yes, victory appears to be within our grasp!

There is one minor annoying glitch with our high strung thoroughbred stallions, however. My newest spare spinners required some work with a blade and sand paper in order to loosen the tolerances enough to be able to snap the caps on. Other than that, as well as with a little carbon fiber reinforcement this little plane is perfect! Honest, I really am trying to be objective in spite of all the excitement.

Doc., I must copy you yet again. Though experiments have proven that the fake gun smoke treated wings inspired by your artistic genius on my now war weary P-51 will not be comfortable carrying anything heavier than a 1800mAh LiPo, my new GUNFIGHTER with an empty weight of only 18 ounces begs to be loaded up with a big battery like you are using.

grendel, have you figured out what caused that right climbing turn anomaly yet? Being a real airplane pilot, your analysis and solutions will be of great interest to us toy airplane enthusiasts.

pkh, I am with you. Battle scars make great conversation pieces. I even go so far as to save crashed parts in order to relive past glory in the sky before fate took its toll.

"OFF WE GO INTO THE WILD BLUE YONDER!"

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DenverJayhawk

I'm getting used to the heavier 2200 packs now. In fact I don't even use the stock 1300 pack any longer. IMO, the glide performance with the heavier 2200s is like a brick. I basically have to get it pretty low with about half power and then chop the throttle when ready to touch down. These warbirds were definitely not meant to glide.

mad web tv scientist

Denver, yesterday's sorties with my 21 ounce war weary GUNFIGHTER hauling a 5.5 ounce battery into a 75 degree F sea level atmosphere sky reminded me of your adventures there in your thousands of feet high air there in Colorado. I really failed to enjoy the landing experiences.

My new pristine condition PZ 51 weighs a mere 18 ounces and with a 2.5-4 ounce 25c or better 3 cell battery maneuvering performance is great and landing speeds are so much nicer that I am really tempted to buy yet another light 18 ounce GUNFIGHTER and retire my heavy war weary one for use only as a back up and/or for especially dangerous missions. For now I am going to stubbornly soldier on practicing with the older heavier ship but if my skill level doesn't start improving noticeably I am not going to be able to resist the temptation to procure a better performing first line fighter.

". . . AT 'EM BOYS, GIVE 'EM THE GUN . . ."


madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif]
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DenverJayhawk

Can you folks tell me your preferred method of fixing areas where the foam is chipped off? I have a section on the LE of the wing tip that got chipped in a crash. How do you "fill in" sections that are missing?

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

It's best to try to find the missing pieces and just glue them back, but I'm assuming they are lost since you're asking .

Here's the options I'd consider (in order of my preference):
1) Trim the area to round it off more (reduce drag) and see how it flies. If it flies OK, then just touch it up with some silver paint to mask the damage and be done with it.
2) Buy a replacement wing.
3) Cut out the damaged section, leaving clean, straight cuts. Glue in some foam and trim it to match the contour of the wing.

Dr_Bojangles

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Finely chopped foam, Gorilla Glue and a tiny bit of water

Mix well and apply.

Gorilla Glue will expand... a lot, so take that into account. That chunk may need two layers or maybe the mix will expand enough to fill it. It takes quite awhile to dry and harden, so be patient. When it's hard, you can sand, file and paint.

http://www.gorillaglue.com/

<o></o>

mad web tv scientist

pkh, I finally broke down and bought some "foam safe" glue that works well to glue regular foam to the P-51's foam material. This makes it easy to glue a plug of any kind of foam into a space on the 51 that needs to be filled in. A little ordinary baking soda can provide useful filler/CA kicker; sanding the area reasonably smooth and applying a suitable color finishes the job that can look as good as new from a distance while still providing enough "damage evidence" for conversation purposes.

I've just "fine tuned" my war weary GUNFIGHTER and both Messerschmitts to my new DX7. "Maiden" experiences with the DX7 were not favorable. Data was lost when changing batteries on two different occasions. The second battery change resulted in less data loss possibly due to the fact that my bumbling efforts to finally get the new battery installed took far less time. Does this sound "normal?"

Predictions - All DX7 channels except the one for the 51 are set up with 100%
Expo and 70% D/R on Low Rate with 100% Expo and 125% D/R on High Rate. I was unable to get my number one channel used for the Mustang to provide a high and low rate difference which may be okay because using slightly greater than maximum needed control deflection angles with 100% Expo will surely provide more than adequate control for my purposes. Am I on the right track with this technology. Why is the number one channel behaving so strangely? I got a "beeping" sound and an "F" on one channel and finally fiddled around and got it off. I don't know how any of that happened. Yes, I don't know how I got rid of the "F" either. Any predictions, suggestions, warnings, etc, would be very much appreciated. Who knows, maybe we can generate a really splendid friendly little fight here!

In other modeling promoting warfare news, Facebook provided a birthday present by allowing me to be blocked off so I was unable to thank all of my well wishers on Facebook that I learned about on my gmail account. I was also blocked off RCU forums on my regular email account. This post was composed on an alternate account. My hacker is evidently getting a little careless. I also learned that email sent in response to me was returned to sender, so all in all though we are winning the war the enemy still has a lot of dirty tricks that, unfortunately, can still demoralize far too many otherwise promising fighter pilots.

Don't forget to check your six!

madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif]
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-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

So you're using foam-safe CA glue?

No, that doesn't sound normal. I swapped my stock DX7 NiMH pack for a 3S LiPo pack recently, and didn't suffer any memory loss. You might want to send it into Horizon to check it out.

mad web tv scientist

[8D] phk , I use "foam safe glue" only sparingly when I just have to. Usually it is thin CA and baking soda or Five minute epoxy.

The "DX7 destructions" warn against 3 cell LiPo usage. I think my unsteady efforts to plug the battery in might have sent some "voltage spikes" into the system. I will keep an eye on the it and act accordingly.

After I fully charge the stock NiMh battery it will be wrapped in an air and water tight plastic bag system and keep it in the freezer. Such an approach is supposed to preserve the battery to losing less than 1% charge per year. I have ordered two more stock batteries in order to enjoy the logistic support needed to have adequate supplies for what could become a really long hard slog in the culture war.

Keep your powder dry.

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Viragored

Do you find those expo settings work well?

When I've tried the high numbers on my Futaba set I've found the initial response too slow and the final response too severe - I was getting hardly any response around the stick centres and then full whack in the last bit of stick travel which made it hard or impossible for me to fly smoothly. I generally use numbers between 30% and 50% to give a steady progression towards full deflections and that usually does the trick for me.

Dave

mad web tv scientist

Dave, thanks! I will reduce the Expo on low rate to 50% on all elevator settings. Your analysis makes perfect sense. In the confusion of battle on my last DX7 sortie I can't remember exactly what my settings were. The warm "thin air" variable incited enough anxiety from low power and terrible landing performance that I just had to quit after finally trimming in a little extra up elevator deflection that, fortunately, helped solve my embarrassing landings. My Messerschmitt got no air time that day.

After checking just to be sure I hadn't lost any deflection angles on the elevator (yes, I know what the instructions say but being a "bit" paranoid I just have to check everything - too many past disasters) I began flipping switches and Low and Behold, the flap switch now works as a High Rate/Low Rate system switch (for rudder, aileron, and elevator) on channel one! I got something wrong, don't I? No problem for now but if someone knows what I ought to do please fire away.

Got a beautiful day today. Must out maneuver the soccer players if I expect to get some good CAP flights in.

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mad web tv scientist

Today's sorties with the Mustang demonstrated that 50% Expo for elevator and rudder seems to work well. I started with 100% ailerons Expo and it was a little unnerving. 70% for ailerons didn't seem too bad. Because I tend to feed in some unintentional aileron on outside loops extra Expo seems to help. I need a lot of practice and will be adjusting Expo as time and practice seem to dictate.

Temperature was in the mid eighties and I was forced to add yet more elevator deflection angles (now plus/minus 15 degrees) to get the needed outside loop turn radius on low rate.

The thick grass on the soccer fields that were recently mowed have demonstrated that belly lander Park Flyers are the weapons of choice for me. No more ROG PFs for me for a while. Flipping over is no fun!

I did something right today that I have been bad about getting wrong. I checked wind direction that had shifted just before my landing approach and made the necessary corrections that resulted in a nice landing into the wind. I usually tend to land in the same direction as the launch and often end up landing cross wind or even down wind. I always have a little "Micafilm" flag on the radio antenna, that if I will simply only look at while setting up for landing much better results should be enjoyed.

madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif]
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mad web tv scientist

Latest Mustang expo control adjustment and flying performance seems close to optimum for now. The 51 and 109s are set up identically with 20% rudder expo and 10% expo for ailerons and elevator. The 51 is still difficult to fly through more than one victory roll without wandering all over. The stock 109 with its full span ailerons performs very nice multiple "almost axial rolls."

Dave, thanks for the motor information. I would have to add 1.5 ounces of ballast to the nose in order to use the Turnigy 3536 motor in the 109 and would not be able to use the big 12x6 prop that works so well to nicely haul my heaviest Messerschmitt straight up. In view of recent developments I will continue using stock motors in my lightest PZ 109 and procure a "high altitude 25" for my heavy flapped/landing gear equipped machine. Calculations suggest that even in the highest practical density altitude (less dense air) the killer "supercharged" 25 should be able to propel my dandy ME as well or better than a stock motor can do on a standard sea level (59 degree) day.

My war weary Mustang will continue to be the main demo and practice plane regardless of what ever other plane is brought out to the flying site. From a distance my wife can't tell the difference between my new pristine condition GUNFIGHTER and the "war weary" one so I am quite satisfied with my current quick repair practices.


madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif]
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mad web tv scientist

GUNFIGHTER HAS COMPETITION/HOT WEATHER REPORT.

Saturday's 96 degree weather here in Salem, Oregon proved overwhelmingly that hot thin density air can have only a minor negative effect on flying performance especially compared to my small internal combustion engine powered planes. The new Wildcat thread describes most of the action, "warts" and almost all.
I did end up with some really hot batteries. I will pass on hot days in the future, but I just had to fly at least enough to see for myself what the facts are under such conditions.

Turns out that the Wildcat and the 51 are nicely similar in aerobatics and landing approach performance especially under conditions experienced on Saturday. Today, with 90 degree F temperature and lower speed winds the F4F was noticeably easier to land where I wanted compared to the 51 with its unnerving tendency to speed up and not slow down when coming toward me while flying into the wind at "landing approach speeds."

The Cat can't use some of my older wider batteries that I would like to "use up" before using newer higher performance ones, so even though I prefer to fly the Wildcat over the Mustang in calmer weather the 51 will get a lot of air time regardless until those batteries that are over two years old finally bite the dust.
I really need the practice flying the P-51 provides.

Watch out, the F4F could spoil you.

FLY, FIGHT, AND WIN!

madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif] ____________________________________________ Modeling Promoting Bog: http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...g&memid=266748 Modeling's rendezvous with destiny will surely be unstoppable when something greater than the narcissistic pleasure of an esoteric chosen few is adopted in modeling.

mad web tv scientist

REVOLUTIONARY LANDING INVENTION!

Yes, for some of us who have been having trouble landing in small area flying sites, this perfect new invention is for us!

After enjoying landing after safe landing with my dandy new PZ Wildcat, the solution to my landing problems with the GUNFIGHTER became oh so obvious. The 51 needs more drag to help aid some of us somewhat chronologically and vision challenged fighter pilots with our landing perception skills.

Simple, adjustable small "fixed split flaps" provide the perfect solution for the vital need to land very close in some of the small areas that are now more practical than ever for Park Flyers! The P-51 is now just as easy or even easier than the F4F to land very accurately.

The dimensions of the 1/16 inch thick balsa
flaps are 1.5 inch wide and 6.5 inches long and are located 1 inch from the fuselage. They are located a lot like the dive breaks on a Dauntless dive bomber. Adjustable 20 gage soft steel wire attaches both ends at the trailing edge of the flap with one wire support in the center. These wires are long enough to allow the flaps to be opened up some and are attached to the wing under the flap so thy cannot be seen except when viewing from the back. It helps to bend the ends of the wire so that there is sufficient area for glue to hold everything together during operational stresses. One strip of 1/2 inch wide packing tape is applied to the "hinge area" on the bottom of the wing. The gap between the wing trailing edge and the adjustable fixed flap is 1/2 inch. The flaps are finished with invasion stripes to blend in with the bottom of the plane and tend to not even be noticeable.

The belly landing 109 is now equipped with split ailerons in order to enjoy the same landing qualities that are now enjoyed with the 51 and F4F. With the extra power of its .25 it should be very practical to fly around with more than the adequate drag that is so useful for comfortable landings in small spaces.

FLY, FIGHT, AND WIN!

madwebtvscientist [sm=cry_smile.gif] [sm=lol.gif] ____________________________________________ Modeling Promoting Bog: http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...g&memid=266748 Modeling's rendezvous with destiny will surely be unstoppable when something greater than the narcissistic pleasure of an esoteric chosen few is adopted in modeling.