TWODOG

I am in the process of getting all the pieces and parts for a couple of Dark Side projects...
And Gryphon has been a big help in the decision process...
No offense intended Gryphon...just curious as to other fellas opinions..
I have a couple of Megas on order...a 16/40/1.5RC and a 16/40/2C...
The 16/40/2C will be built first with TP 5S 3850 30Cs and a 7" prop...
The 16/40/1.5RC a little later, on TP 4S 5000 45Cs...will start out on 4S with 7" prop on that one
And move on from there as my confidence increases..
I am looking for some of your experienced speed demon ESC recommendations...
I will definitely be sticking withCC ESCs...
Just not sure which ones I want tostart with???

Also considering Hitec Digital 5085MGs for my servos...any comments?
I have used these in my ritewings with great success...I think they would handle the Stryker ok??

moparmyway

NO.
I wouldnt add more weight unless it needs it.
If anything, just paint on a thin coat of epoxy after you skuff up the foam.

The build you copied is for speeds under 130.
If you are looking for faster, then you really need to add quite a bit more CF

gabe_tuft

Will the MinWax Polycrylic I use to fiberglass the bottom work? Or do I need some old school 15 or 30 min epoxy from the LHS?

moparmyway

Keep the poly for the furniture
Epoxy is significantly stronger !!

IMHO, just paint the entire Stryker with Epoxy and let her cure. A super thin coat should add less than 2 oz to your already heavy foam.

moparmyway

NICE motors !!!!

ICE 100 ESC should be fine for those 2 motors unless you are looking to really heat them up................and if thats the case, so long as you stay under 8 cells, the ICE 200 would be the next step.
(There is the ICE HV 160, but there is no BEC, and its the same physical size as the ICE 200)

Those HiTec 5085MG's will be just fine so long as you get MAX throws with MAX resolution by keeping to the top holes on elevons and servos. You might need to increase your travel limits in your transmitter to get max throws.

moparmyway

I just had to post these !!!!!

185 mph Stryker Speed Record holding MEGA 22/50/1E on King Lymey

TWODOG

King Limey...all I can say is "WOW"...what a machine and an awesome motor setup!!
The glass job looks superb...what weight glass and type of epoxy did you use?
And Thanks for the ESC recomendations...Mopar!!

gabe_tuft

Mopar, so epoxy on top and bottom OR fiberglass on the bottom and epoxy on top? Do you recommend any specific type of epoxy?

I noticed you glassed the bottom of Nemesis. I'm worried about getting flutter without the glass.

BTW, King Limey is off the hook!

Maine_Flyer

Just finished refitting the white ghost with a mega 25/3 and heat sink , 80amp esc , 6s 2650 30-50c (2, 3s packs in series) 6.5x6.5 graupner cam prop, separate BEC, with flight control running off a 2s800mah.. just ran the watts meter and got 68 amps and 1550 watts with a full throttle burst.. sounds pretty mean on 6s.. test flight this evening.. expecting wickedness!.. muuuhahahahah
I'll try to get a video..

moparmyway

I would start with the basic CF layout, then paint epoxy on the bottom only. Fly it and see how you like it. As you go faster, just paint the upper fuse, then fly some more. Go even faster (and start having some fast landings) and you can just add some lightweight glass anytime you feel the need for more rigidity in the airframe.

I like "Z" poxy finishing resin (get @ any LHS)
I glass every speedster, might as well start at the starting line instead of the back parking lot

moparmyway

We await that video !!!!
The longer nose has a look to it that sets it apart. Looks sleek and fast !!!!

Did you get any RPM readings from that setup ???

Gryphon

Maine_Flyer,

In the past most folks ran APC Pylon 6.5X6.0 , StrykerFlyer and 1 other person have also done some occasional APC Pylon 6.5X6.5 runs.

I hope you are not going above 70A, at least not much over it given the summer temps etc...
I generally try to keep people down to low 60A range to cover my own butt.

I suggest you use some throttle control to keep motor from overheating....at part throttle your ESC works very hard....but some gliding around with motor off is an option too.



If I remember right, you were always a bit conservative on AMP draw of the 4S 16/25/2....fairly surprised you are running higher "RELATIVE" AMPs on this motor.....maybe you had ESC or 4S battery size limitations.




Good luck my friend,


Gryphon

Maine_Flyer

well the story goes like this....
son of a beotch!.. was going to hit a couple circuits and a couple full throttle bursts, land, check stuff out for heat, then go up again and get some video that I could at least dopler.. on the first run i flew over a set of powerlines I've flown over a hundred times.. this time she glitched out (72mhz) and I couldn't get it back.. she went straight in, into a swale grass bog strip in a field and sunk it into the mud up to the wings..LOL.. I didn't get to see her go in but a neighbor who was on his porch did and led me to it in 6 feet of swale .. would have taken hours to find it without him seeing it go in.. got lucky there... all the electronics are fine and batts are fine.. nose trashed and body has a good crank in it.. too much for her to be a high-speed bird again.. never even got past half throttle... that's the way the stryker bounces... have a new fuse in the hanger with all the fixins, just need to get a new nose and white ghost II will be born... bigger and badder then the last!!

here's the aftermath of the 30 second flight:

Maine_Flyer

yes in the past I had an esc in it that was only good up to 4s.. it (RIP) now has a 6s esc.. the 25/2 is in my funjet and runs a 5s 2200 pack and a 6x3 apc sport.. it's pretty badass. at 1350 watts

dougclind

I feel your pain. That is definitely an "oh crap!" (or other words to that effect, lots of them, that we don't really need to go in to here do we?) She was a beautiful bird. There have been a couple of times that I've smacked up a Stryker on a maiden. There just about isn't a worse feeling, regardless of the cause.

Is there a problem with 72 Mhz and high voltage power lines? Doesn't seem like there should be.

Gryphon

Maine_Flyer,

Sorry to see your beautiful and famous Stryker crash.

Crashing on 72 mHZ is something I know too well. I had several very costly crashes on 72 MHz till I switched over to 2.4 GHz and then all was fine.

I suggest you get DX7, or the latest DX8.

The DX8 has some telemetry built into it and will send back live info to your transmitter on battery power, maybe RPM, maybe temp...I cannot recall perfectly....look up Spektrum’s web site....several other new features built into it.
I placed a link for DX8 by itself in the last couple of pages.

Only receiver I trust 100% is AR7000 and that comes with DX7. ON purpose I flew all over power lines (and close too)...not even the smallest hiccup.


As power levels go up, 72 MHZ receiver needs to be installed far away from ESC/motor/UBEC. Several people installed in out on the wing (near front of fuse and leading edge).


Take care,

Gryphon

Gryphon

New ESC:

Castle Creations ICE 150A ESC

regular: good for 8S

Lite: good for 6S

Same cost but different size and weight.




http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...oenix_ice.html


Those prices are full retail, so they could be purchased at lower prices through the good dealers.


__________________________________________________ ______________________________________________

I have to catch up on reading a bunch of posts.

Battery discharger is finished, I have pics.
I did just 20+ discharges on it on my 5 packs. All are recorded on separate Eagle tree files.
It is good for up to 5S , 6S will burn a light immediately.

I took a bunch more pics of how I managed to fit 8 gauge wire of ICE 160 HV (which is too big to fit 6.5mm or 6mm bullets) into my 6mm bullets without cutting off any strands and got it all soldered up.
After a bunch of discussion and a lot of thinking, I managed to do it VERY EASILY.....I hope you guys will like it.
Will try to do both write ups in the next day or two or three????? Send me a PM getting me to do it quicker than other wise.

10 gauge wire of Phoenix 125A ESC fits 6mm and 6.5mm bullet connectors easily....8 gauge is just way bigger.

Time to redo the test on part 6 thread page 38, bottom of page......on same motor....with same authorization or lack of...LOL


Later,

Gryphon

Maine_Flyer

use to not be an issue, but the last few years 72mhz has been getting worse.. I have a DX7 for my choppers and large scale stuff but haven't switched over my smaller stuff.. hadn't had many problems til now.. that plane has flown that circuit many times in the past 4 years since I built her never had a total glitchout like that. It wasn't running as high a voltage as 6s though so that probably played a role in the demise .. I run a separate bec and ferrite rings on control surface wires and throttle.. guess I'm going to have to isolate things better on the next build.

Maine_Flyer

I have a DX7 with seven models on it but haven't switched over the smaller stuff yet.. may get a spectrum 4 channel rx for the next build or at least separate components as much as I can. 2.4ghz is definitely the way to go. the ar7000 is what I run in my choppers.

murdnunoc

ICE 150A... great size to fill a void that's just where some of us need it!

Gryphon, did I miss the pricing info where the cost is the same as Ice 100? Castle's site says $139 for 100A and $269 for 150A.

Gryphon

Cost of regular versus Lite version are the same....I don't believe I mentioned anything regarding ICE 100A.

murdnunoc

Oops!
Sorry, I was reading too fast and I must have made a connection that wasn't there! I got it now...

Gryphon

Here is how I fit and soldered 8 gauge wires onto 6mm bullets without cutting off any strands.

*** The 8 gauge wire is so large that it will not all fit into NEU 6mm or Castle Creation 6.5mm bullets.

Only other connectors are NEU 8mm bullets which are rated at 300+A.



1) CC ICE HV 160A ESC wires come pre-soldered.

2) Cut the soldered tips off.

3) Remove about 5/16” off of the wire insulation. This amount makes it easy to work on wire….trim some of it later on (only if you need to)

4) Start to peel back equal amount of wire strands from all around the outer edge…these strands should only be bent 90 degree outwards at base and rest of the of the strands kept straight…be gentle to avoid breaking some of them.

5) Take the middle strands and bunch them together.

6) Make sure to leave them straight (untwisted).

7) Test to see if it can fit inside the connector…or be very close to fitting in.

8) Now twist them together, this causes them to get bunched up closer and tighter…if you want, you can fold down a few more strands and twist those around as well to get a few more strands inside the connector.

9) Do a test fit to ensure all is well.

10) Bend the extra wires out of your way all the way at their base….leaving them straight. Here you can use wire cutters to shorten the center/twisted wires a little if you wish by cutting off about 1/16”.

11) I wrapped the connector with some soft cardboard (similar to labels on APC E prop bags or packaging for Various glues and epoxy). I made it shape like a “U” with the top pinched by solder station’s helping hands. This keeps connector in place without robbing the heat away from the connector and is fairly resistant to heat without catching fire. I left the end of connector out so I could do my solder work. The paper also ensures that solder does not get on rest of connector such as on male splines etc.

12) I do a partial solder job to make sure wire is secure inside the connector.



Post 1 of 3


Gryphon

Gryphon

13) Partial solder ensures that solder does not work back up onto the bent back strands.

14) Gently bend the other strands down away from insulation.

15) Straighten them down over connector.

16) Twist them around the connector so they will be tighter and closer to it.

17) Wrap up the areas you don’t want soldered and secure the connector for final solder job.

18) Finish the soldering by first heating the connector up well, add plenty of solder to get everything coved. Flip ESC, its wire and connector over and get solder on the areas of connector you could not reach earlier. Give it a minute to cool down some. Looked pretty good. Excess solder had a flat spot where it touched the wooden work surface.

19) I held the connector vertical and smoothened the solder job by twisting the wire and connector assembly in one hand while running the hot tip of the soldering tool over the rougher areas of the solder.

20) I used a file to clean up the solder job a bit more ( I had lots of solder on there), removing some of it is not an issue.

21) Connector’s solder job looked good to me and was ready for heat shrink tubing.

22) I always make sure to have some excess shrink tubing outwards because I will go back and trim it to fit to get perfection.

23) Heat was applied, you can see some of the male end being covered.

24) Razor was used to trim the excess shrink tubing for a perfect fit.


Post 2 of 3


Gryphon

Gryphon

25) Looked good, fit perfectly and no exposed metal surfaces.

26) Compare size of ESCs (Phoenix 125A VS Phoenix ICE HV 160A) , also see wire size differences; 10 gauge VS fatter 8 gauge.



The above gets done fairly easily and quickly….Most of the above is my attempt at being descriptive and to take some guess work away…..I guess it could have been written up in 4-5 steps or less.



Hopefully some of you will find this helpful. Maybe you can modify it in some way or get ideas to do it totally different….my main goal was not to cutoff any wire.

I hope no one uses this method to put CC 125A wires onto 4mm or 3.5mm bullets.

There are times when we have to switch up to larger connector sizes than we had before….but now we are at a stage where installing 8mm bullets on everything is just nuts. The 6mm And 6.5mm bullets are rated for 225-250A range….they are plenty good enough.


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Gryphon