RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hola, mi amigo! Como esta? Going to Majorca (Ca'n Picafort, AI) - don't know if the colonies are aware - AI means all inclusive (free booze, food, entertainment etc) - its a Brit thing! You don't see Spain, just the bar and restaurant!! Don't you love being insomniac, you can beat the Germans to the pool chairs!! But no flying (again!) for 2 weeks. Intensive flying next week before going. To flying - I can fit a 9x4 APC prop on Stryker number 3 (8x4 recommended) - not everyone runs Lipo's!! Tower 2809 and Hyperion both recommend this size so I cut both tail stabs off and made up balsa fins to fit (they don't overhang the rear of plane. 30oz of thrust on 7-8 cell Nimh. Trying it on Friday ;)[8D]:D By the way AI isn't for me cos I don't drink but wifey drinks my share!! [>:][:o][X(]

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

XxOoCoBrAoOxX,

You wanted me to suggest a prop for even more speed compared to the APC Sport 7X6.

I tested the APC sport 7X6 7X7 and 7X8 with a TP 5000-3S battery in this same order, back to back, after a full charge.

The 7X8 drew 1074W @99A, this is uncharted area as far as how well, and how long the motor can take it.


I know you don't feel comfortable with changing the timing advance.

At Stryker_Viking's house We used my Castle link and verified that the ESC timing advance was set to middle (normal/std) position, and later I installed the APC sport 7X7 the testing had showed about 1000W. On my last flight in CA we tried radar run after radar run with Stryker_Viking and my friend. Since it was windy the results were not very meaningful and all I wanted to do was to Ship the Stryker out of CA in one piece.
Stryker_Viking kept telling me to fly from another direction and I must have missed the reason he wanted me to do that or he didn't tell me or some thing. Because I didn't want to fly in that direction, I was getting nervous for some odd reason.

Finally I did it, with not much battery left I radared 111MPH on 7X7 and std timing advance. This radar run in the wind was meaningful because Stryker_Viking had me fly 90 degrees to the wind, so there was no head wind and no tail wind. The plane was only being pushed sideways.

Previously: with a 3800 22C 148m long battery(now 3850 25C) but much more full and high timing advance and 7X6 I got 111MPH.

Now: With 5000-3S battery almost empty and std advance I saw the 111MPH reading on the radar gun.

In 2 days of flying I had five flights with 7X7 full throttle most of the time. The motor never got hot. But the battery came out pretty WARM, but I don't think it was over its temp limit. I need a temp gun next.

Although I cannot tell you its top speed with that prop, I can tell you that it is faster without a doubt.

Summer is coming and we all need additional cooling for our batteries.
Personally I have not lengthened and widened the slots of the rear hatch to allow for more air to exit thereby letting more air in, so that is next.
If needed I will cut an opening on each side of front of fuse to allow more air in, maybe even take a little more foam off of the side walls of the battery bay if needed.

Your 4500-3S Extreme can handle the load of the 7X7 just fine. Initially use full throttle half of the time and monitor the battery temp, increase the full throttle duration as desired pending the battery temp.

Check the temp of your motor and ESC as well.

You may want to try the APC Pylon 6.5X6.5 prop and see if it goes any faster. I have not had a chance to try that on the 5000 battery.

If you still have my PM from last week with all of the A, W, and RPM info on the 3 props, please send it back to me in a PM. I never had a chance to record it in a computer. The paper is lost.

Thanks,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

GRYPH

Thanks man for your pics grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat :D gives me a better idea of positioning etc

thanks again

Maxamus;)

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Alright, I have in my possession so far
TP1010C charger
TP 3850 battery
TP 210 balancer
FMA direct Co-pilot
Mega 16/25/2 Motor
CC 125A esc
6mm bullet connectors
wooden elevons
all control horns
watt meter
3M extreme tape (huge roll)

Now I just need a fuse to put it all in and some props. Oh yeah and the UBEC that didn't come in either shipment...hmmmm gonna have to call Randy and find out why it didn't ship. Dang he didn't send props yet either...guess I have time to wait.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Styker Dudes
Whilst your making the Stryker fly fast i am making the Vulcan fly as slow as possible

http://media.putfile.com/Avro-Vulcan-to-the-Sky

enjoy

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr. Mugen,

You left out a big detail: Your 3850 is a 4S.....
Best 3S will give 1000W but your 4S can have 1300+W :D
Power difference of 1 ½ times F-27C.

Power difference of 110-115MPH and 120-130MPH.

Note: with Hitec 81 servos, I tell people to get 3" servo wire extensions or 6", but since you are using Co-pilot you have to use 6" extensions if you install it like me(in the side wall). If you install the co-pilot's little computer right behind the nose instead of where I installed it then you will need even longer wires.

For starters set the gain just 10% up from minimum. This will allow you to fly with the co-pilot without it fighting you too much to keep the plane level at a cost of slower leveling time by co-pilot.
If you plan to flip a switch to turn it on only when in trouble to save the plane, then you can set it at a higher gain, but no reason to go above 50% in a Stryker. If you see that it wags side to side in the air (nonstop) that means the gain is set too high. Also when it is set that high you may not be able to over ride the co-pilot to make turns until you turn off the copilot.

***If your extra ch has a rotating knob on trans, it is best to use that ch. First half will be off position, and after that it will increasing gain. That would be by far the best way to go. But usually only 8ch or 9ch radio's have rotating knobs or sliders.

Enjoy,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hello Gryphon my fast flying friend in absense,

Hope all is well with you...

About to leave in a couple of minutes to test my new motor mount, see picture...
This new design idea is the cheapest to date, consists of:
* 2 inch long Carbon square rod (scrap body from a Slo-V)
* 2 x zip ties
* 1 ml Gorilla Glue

A comment on your note on the Co-Pilot:
"If you see that it wags side to side in the air (nonstop) that means the gain is set too high."
This will also occur if you have ailerons on high throw, at least on my Stryker...

More to come...

Stryker_Viking

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Stryker_Viking,

My Elevons are wider than your super narrow Elevons and I have higher throw than you. On high rate, I am still fine.
**This tells me that you still need to slightly lower your gain.

Thanks for the pics.

I am very interested in your heat sink. I want to buy one for my MEGA 22/30/2. The ones that I have are the same type as yours, but.....the fins run in the wrong direction. Instead of front to rear, mine are running around the motor, so they will not provide as good a cooling as your fin.

You can see my heat sinks in the MEGA-Zilla thread on roughly page 18 of park flier forum(at this time). When MEGA sent me a new replacement motor 1/2 price, they cleaned the (2) fins like new again and sent them back as well. I guess those fins may be for Heli or something.
Please send me a link for your fin or post it.

EDIT: I added the pic

Thanks,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

I have a knob on all of my radios. I plane to use the 3 position switch and have 2 different gains preset. Is this a posibility with these?

How wide are your elevons?

SV- I look forward to your source for those heat sinks too. ;)

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr. Mugen,

I was about to say no, but if you do some creative offset programming with your computer radio I don't see why not.

I will talk to Howard the FMA tech and also Danny, the JR/Spektrum rep for Horizon hobby who runs a thread here on Rcuniverse.

Brilliant, hey thanks Mr. Mugen I owe you one.:)

My wooden elevons is about same as stock width wise, Stryker_Viking made his narrower, but I believe he plans on using about stock width next time.


Mr. Mugen, good thing is that you will not need his heat sink on your MEGA because it will not get hot, and the snap on heat sink will be more than enough. If you go with his heat sink, then you can not use the F-27C motor mount. If your motor gets too hot then worry about it, but it will not get hot. I LOVE that about MEGA motors.

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

For several of you trying to build wooden elevons, take a look at this thread by somegeek. He has awesome pics.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4759078/tm.htm

I used the same materials. But did 3 things different.
A) After epoxy of wooden T.E. I covered the T.E. with a strip of 3M tape so it would not rip off at insane dive speeds.
B) Sanded the bottom side of the wooden Elevon a little thinner (1/32" off) and epoxied on a 1/32" (aircraft) plywood from MIDWEST covering the whole bottom side of Elevon. Feel free to use a few scraps/pieces and line them up end to end, it will still work great.
C) Used paper CA hinge, and only needed to drop couple/few drops of thin CA on them and it was ready seconds afterward. This method is good enough for 11+ Lbs planes.

Step "B" above will strengthen the Elevon BIG TIME and will seriously reduce the flex of the balsa Elevon. 100% credit to Stryker_Viking. Without this step Balsa Elevon will not be a whole lot better than F-27C Elevons.

You can paint Elevon before assembly or do what I did. I watered down some 20-30 minute epoxy using some rubbing alcohol and brushed it on one end and hanged it to dry, then I brushed it on the other end. That will protect the wood from water and such. Don't let the stuff be runny or run. Might not have the greatest finish but it will get even stronger. Might feel tacky or sticky to the touch for a while but it will go away.

Keep final assembly at 5/16" thick, same as the wooden T.E.
I had to cut a little more than 5/16" of foam from the original foam trailing edge (T.E.) to replace it with 5/16" wood T.E., because the body was thinner in the middle of the wing. I also made sure to line thing up flush with top of wing, and that there was nothing hanging below the wing.

4 paper CA hinges were placed center of assembly height wise and was installed close to stock location as far as side to side.
Do a test fit of assembly more than once so there are no surprises.

***Make sure you have enough deflection before dropping on the CA onto the hinge. To check deflection push the elevon towards the T.E. (with fitted hinges in place) and while holding tension flex it up and down and see how much movement you can have before binding. If you want more throw then sharpen the angle of the elevon at the hinge line. Do that above and below. Also do it on both elevons. When you see the pics from the side of the elevon, you'll know what I mean. I'm sure I'm not describing this part that well....OH well

Make sure that you have a nice tight fit with hardly any room for air to pass through. Sand to a straight edge as needed. My gap is less than 1mm I believe.

** I plan on taking the elevons off of this body and onto the next one if I ever wreck the body beyond repair. That is because I spent too much time on making the wooden elevons. It should have been a semi quick job but took me too long. Good luck seeing where my hinges are. It is a tight and precise fit. To make sure they live through worst crashes I lined up the ends with the wing instead of like stock passing the wing further out. Trying to say that mine is a little shorter than stock from side to side. More of a square shape on end versus triangle (from top view) and I have enough throw to compensate.

***Make sure to place the hinge in the middle of the 5/16" thick Elevon height wise and in the middle of the 5/16" T.E., otherwise Elevon will be too high or two low a little. Take your time there, measure a few times and then do it.

These are just some ideas, use bits and pieces as you like and as you see fit for your project.

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Gryphon and Mr.Mugen

The heat sink I used were something the tech at Medusa Research mentioned when I was discussing design alternatives for motor mounts to the Stryker...

They have two new types and I bought both of them to try out, you have seen pictures of the sleeve version.
My next build will utilize the other type called Clamshell. I will attach them directly to a ca stick...

See: http://www.medusaproducts.com/accessories/heatsinks.htm


Picture time...

As you all know, Gryphon's last flight in freedom (California) took place last weekend before he temporary moved East.
We "celebrated" the event by meeting up for that sad moment...
I managed to snap a couple of shaky pictures of our planes just before we said goodbye and good luck...
So here they are, finally
Fare thy well Sir Gryphon
Stryker_Viking

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hi guys, Max! Maidened last Stryker today - shoot, is it fast (even on 10.8 Nimh!). I don't believe in Santa, Money Trees, free this and that and the weather forecast!! The wind didn't blow at 25mph today - yearh, and I don't crash. This thing shot off straight and true, a little elevator and up she went faster than a Zagi on steroids. Control was something else, the fins are smaller heightwise but same area, just pushed back a bit over trailing edge. Too windy to see if front canards made a difference to launch, try tomorrow. A few small repairs due one bad landing (crosswind prob). I used stock F27b after nose-in and I'd fogotten how good they are stock. Slower but very easy flyer. Anyway, Zagi out for tomorrow with number 2 F27b - forecast is " no weather ever again" and pigs fly if they're b/less.:D[8D][X(]

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hi
Anyone tell me if you can use Gorilla Glue on the Stryker without melting it? Thanks.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Yup. Gorilla glue works great.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hiya Robert, hows sunny SK (zip code!!). Depends what you want to stick. Gorilla Glue is supposed to be good as our colleague said, but I've yet to find it in UK. We can now get 3M 77 spray glue (very good) - light coating before taping, tape sticks like glue!! Don't use Evostcik or balsa cement unless you want to fly a blob!! [&o] I use a lot of 5-minute 2-part epoxy but others say this is heavy but its the strongest obviously. Where do you fly in S/port - Lyme Park, rugby grounds at Didsbury Road or where? Whats the Stryker/electric scene like there - I miss the old place. lived in Gatley, Chorlton Green, Didsbury, Stretford before moving - you made me home sick!! Wot else do you fly? Byeee!!:D:)

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

tam popo and all...

Re: Gorilla glue

It took me a while after I moved to the us 1996 before I figured out what was going on here in the glue department.
I was in need this type of glue for a project, had used it for decades, but no one here had ever heard of such product...???

This product is basically nothing but an (overpriced?) version of Polyurethane glue...

The number of alternative brands are unknown to me, but I can bet my pants on that there are many and with lower price as well...

Thought you would like to know

Happy glueing to you all
Stryker_Viking

Found my old article on the subject, attached below:

The Truth About Polyurethane Glue

Some manufacturers say that polyurethane glues are better than yellow glue.


After the country’s major glue manufacturers introduced their polyurethane glues at the Chicago Hardware Show four years ago, we came back to our shop here at Popular Woodworking excited about trying this new "wonder" product. The polyurethane promise was enticing. We were told that it’s stronger than yellow glue, it’s waterproof, it fills gaps, it’s stainable and it will bond almost any two materials together. The downsides were that it is more expensive, can be messy and it has a shelf life of about a year after the bottle is opened.

After 18 months of use in our shop we were pretty impressed with some of the properties of polyurethane glue. But we weren’t sure that the adhesive was living up to all of the hype we read in the catalogs, advertisements and heard from friends. So we talked to the glue experts about their products to see if they could help us separate the science from the stuff you might hear from your woodworking buddies.

First, a little background. It would be a mistake to call polyurethane glues "new." Polyurethanes have been popular in Europe for decades and were first imported to the United States and Canada about six years ago by the Gorilla Group (which sells Gorilla Glue) and AmBel Corp. (which sells Excel). Pretty soon the big glue manufacturers took notice and introduced their own lines of polyurethane glue. So now we have six polyurethane adhesives to choose from -- though glue-industry insiders suggest that the polyurethane market is crowded and that number might soon drop. But that’s another story. Here, in a nutshell, is what you need to know about polyurethane glue.

Is it stronger?

Some polyurethane glues advertise themselves as "super strong" and "the toughest glue on planet Earth." Other polyurethane glues don’t make any claims about glue strength on the bottle. What gives? Frankly, glue manufacturers seem divided on this issue.

Dale Zimmerman, a technical specialist with Franklin International, which manufactures Titebond Polyurethane Glue, says that his company’s tests don’t show that polyurethane glue is any stronger than yellow glue. Here’s how they tested the adhesives: They glued together 1"-square blocks of hard maple using a long grain-to-long grain joint -- the strongest type of glue joint for wood. Then they attempted to break the blocks apart by testing the joint’s shear strength, which basically means they tried to break the bond by pushing one block up while pushing the other block down.

And what did they find? Zimmerman says that the joints made by the polyurethane glue failed around 3,510 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure. Franklin’s Titebond, a popular yellow glue, failed at 3,600 psi. And Titebond II, their exterior-grade outdoor glue, failed at 3,750 psi.

"Polyurethane glues stick well and hold odd materials, but they generally aren’t stronger than yellow glues," Zimmerman says. "Yellow glue makes a bond that is stronger than the wood. So while the polyurethane glue might actually be stronger, it doesn’t matter because the wood will always fail first. It’s not a stronger joint."

Other glue manufacturers disagree. Mark Singer, the founder of Gorilla Glue, says that polyurethane glue is actually stronger than yellow glue when you use it in types of joints other than the one that Franklin International tested. Franklin, he says, used a long grain-to-long grain joint, and that’s a joint where traditional yellow glues already excel. Singer says that the real strength of polyurethane glues is in an end grain-to-end grain joint or an end grain-to-long grain joint, which are two joints where yellow glues have always been lacking.

"Shear strength is not polyurethane glue’s strongest feature," he says. "In end grain-to-end grain the stuff is incredible. It far outperforms (yellow glues) in end grain. If you coat both surfaces with polyurethane glue, I’ve seen it (the glue) migrate 2" into wood."

Singer says his company hasn’t actually tested this joint scientifically, but he says he’s seen tests from Europe and in the United States that confirm this statement.

Zimmerman at Franklin says that his company hasn’t tested polyurethanes in this manner either, but it would make sense that polyurethane glue would be stronger in a joint with end grain.

"End grain is like a bunch of soda straws," Zimmerman says. "So they suck up yellow glues, which contract when they dry, and this makes a poor joint." That’s not the case with polyurethane glues, which expand as they cure, preventing the end-grain joint from becoming glue-starved and weaker.

Does it fill gaps?

Again, some manufacturers advertise on their bottle that their polyurethane glue "expands to fill gaps" and "expands as it dries," which suggests that the glue plugs gaps much like a two-part epoxy. Unfortunately, this is not the case.

While it’s true that polyurethane glues expand as they cure (the squeeze-out actually foams up like aerosol insulation), glue experts agree that polyurethanes cannot fill a gap larger than 1 or 2 millimeters. After a millimeter or two the foam has no strength, so it is merely a cosmetic filler.

"If you look at the squeeze-out there are a lot of air bubbles in there," says Barry Brewer, marketing manager for the DIY channel for Loctite Corp., the manufacturers of Wood Wizard. "Those bubbles are in any of your gaps, so you’re not going to get strength from those bubbles. On small gaps, polys fill a gap and make it cosmetically appealing. It’s great for the woodworker at home like me. I don’t have a planer or a jointer so it’s sometimes difficult to get the absolute perfect joint.

"But it will not fill a gap like epoxy," he says.

Zimmerman with Franklin International agrees. "We don’t make an epoxy at Franklin," he says. "But I tell people that if they are going to repair a wobbly chair, use epoxy because it fills gaps."

Can you stain it?

Every polyurethane glue manufacturer advertises that their glue accepts stain better than yellow glue. This, we thought, was going to be a great feature of the glue. But we’ve had mixed results with polyurethane glue in our shop at Popular Woodworking.

For example, we used polyurethane glue to assemble the case of the maple Chippendale Secretary featured a few years ago. As the polyurethane glue cured, it squeezed out a bit, which is completely normal. We scraped it out of the corners using chisels, cabinet scrapers and sandpaper. We thought we had removed all of the glue. But when we colored the wood with an aniline dye, the areas where the glue squeezed out wouldn’t accept stain. In all honesty, however, we’ve stained other projects built using polyurethane glue without encountering this problem.

The glue experts we talked to say that a couple things might have happened here. Because the glue squeeze-out was in corners, it might have been especially difficult for us to clean out all the squeeze-out and we missed some. Singer, the founder of Gorilla Glue, says it’s also possible that the glue sealed the pores of the maple, which is a very tight-grained wood, and prevented the stain from penetrating the wood.

The bottom line, experts say, is that polyurethane glue is much more stainable than yellow glue because it sits on top of the wood and doesn’t seal the pores of the wood the same way that yellow glue does.

"Polyurethane glue is not foolproof," says Zimmerman with Franklin International. "But it eliminates the first 90 percent or more of problems you might have with staining."

So what should you do if you have this problem? Singer recommends using a rag with some lacquer thinner on it to clean up the squeeze-out before it cures. Lacquer thinner thins polyurethane glue and allows you to wipe it up more easily.

Zimmerman says this process is sound, but adds that you should make sure you wipe up the glue using short "rolling" strokes instead of snowplowing your way across the board, which pushes glue into the pores. Another way to keep this from happening is to apply masking tape where your squeeze-out is going to occur. When the glue cures, simply pull the tape up.

Is it waterproof?

Does it really stick to almost everything?

Manufacturers say polyurethane glues have excelled in these areas so well that some they are looking to challenge epoxies in the boat-building and home-repair markets. But recent federal government studies of the glue have concluded it is water-resistant, and not waterproof.

"Really boat building is a bigger market that poly glues are just tapping into," says Brewer with Loctite. "We’ve done a lot of testing on this product and can say it is completely waterproof. We don’t even have an epoxy in our line that we claim that with."

Elmer’s Products, which makes ProBond Polyurethane Glue, has started going after the home-repair market by selling its product in drug stores in 2-ounce sizes for $3.99, and at that price it has been "flying" off the shelves, according to Elmer’s officials.

"That’s a great way of getting people to try this product," says Mitch Kon, vice president for marketing at Elmer’s. "We’re positioning this product as not necessarily a stronger product but as a more universal glue. It will bond almost anything to anything."

In fact, at the Elmer’s offices in Columbus, Ohio, employees are proud to show off their ProBond sculpture, which is a towering pile of different kinds of materials -- all stuck together using their polyurethane glue.

"It’s a single-component glue that’s a replacement for epoxy -- not a replacement for yellow glue or our Probond," Kon says. "It’s great for that situation where you want to glue a piece of baseboard back into place. You don’t think you should use yellow glue, so what do you use? Polyurethane glue will do the job."

Are poly glues here to stay?

Glue manufacturers all say that the public’s interest in their products has been increasing steadily since polyurethane glues were introduced in the states. But according to Brewer at Loctite Corp., not everyone is likely to survive.

He says his company estimates the wood glue market is about a $30 million market per year. Only a small sliver of that is made up of professionals or serious hobbyists -- people who are most likely to use polyurethane glues. Most of the glue market is made up of people who need glue for occasional use in their homes.

"There is some growth potential for the product," Brewer says. "But there was a lot of dust raised in the first year these were introduced, so we’ll see. Frankly, there just isn’t room on the shelf for all these guys."

So now all you need to do is decide if polyurethane glues have a place in your heart. Here in our shop we’ve found a permanent place for the polyurethane adhesives in our glue cabinet -- right next to our large supply of good old-fashioned yellow glue. PW

Chris Schwarz is a senior editor at Popular Woodworking.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hi Tam Popo
Live in Cheadle Hulme, and do most of my flying from my back garden, which backs onto farmland and the school playing fields of Cheadle Hulme School. Do you know it?
Do quite a bit of flying in Anglesey too, where my parents have a place. Loads of wide open spaces, lots of geese to chase, and far more fun.
In answer to your question, I am the Stryker scene here. There is a club near to me, just off the A34 behind Total Fitness, but you have to pay a fee and most of them are nitro. Don't think there's room for little old me with my crappy parkzone reciever. It'd probably have them all crashing.
Fairly new to the Stryker scene, but have already upgraded to Lipo, which has made a big, no massive, difference. Was quite dissapointed with stock set up, not the Lipo though.
Currently working on a tin can motor mod as twice (after crashing) the motor mount has ripped free, hence my interest in gorilla glue. Have already used a whole tube of fast drying epoxy on the thing, and now need something lighter and easier to work with. Have a feeling may need new body soon enough though.
Try ebay for g glue. That's where I will be purchasing mine from now. £4.99 and free postage.
Happy flying.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hiya Robert, I vaguely know where you are cos my brother lives in that region (only go about once a year!). The motor mount break isn't uncommon so don't feel bad about it. It's fixable. First off take a look thru Critterhunters mods, and Somegeeks are good too. They usually apply to basic builds but provide info on reinforecement points and stuff to use. A complete new shell in UK is only £15 (and you get a nose cone as well) - tell me where you can get a new plane as good for that price? You decide, are you staying in the sport and with Stryker or not. You've got the basic stuff, just swap it over. New 480 motor is only £5-7, motor mount £3 and the list goes on - if you need addresses/website just ask! I've got 3 - (1) stock (2) b/less and NimH 10.8V pack (3) b/less and lipo if needed! Two of them built from shells with help from the guys here. Build my own fins, elevons, nose cones the lot and its cheap but bloody fast (am I allowed to say that Mr Censor?). You can dump the 5-wire servos for decent ones, b/less esc (or not!), any motor you want. Cost £70 flying but you'll need a new TX (budget price £50, 6 channel with 3 servos, 1 brushed esc and RX with crystal from E-Flite). List endless, depends on fund. Speak to you after 2 weeks hols in Espana por favor mi amigo!! :D[8D]

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

This may have been asked before and im sorry if it has but does any body have pictures that they can post of the new style F27 C Elevons?

Im just curiouse as to how they attach to the body now. As far as i can see they dont use tape is this correct?

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

You are correct, no tape. They have a plastic pin that pushes thru the elevon and wing, then there is a plastic clip that attaches to the other side. The wing is slotted so you really cant get it wrong. Myself I like the setup way better than tape.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Sounds alot better than tape, me and sticky tape dont really see eye to eye.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

DKBushman, no I'm not stalking you, honest!! I've just built 2 Strykers from shell up and built elevons outa balsa then taped to wing, a la Zagi. Only theory but doesn't allow airflow to enter gap between trailing edge and elevon, therefore smoothing the flow. I think they call it "airspill" - would need a wind tunnel to prove but Scotland is busy just now:D Catch you on usual thread. Byee!

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hi guys I will be finishing my MEGA Stryker soon. Out of town right now. Have a meaningful Memorial Day. I know I am. Lemme give you a hint of where I'm at. VIP all the way Baby. All by chance. It's been the best week ever.

RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step in to the Dark Side...
 

Hey guys! Vampower is throwing some batts out pretty cheap.

I can't really afford one right now but the price might make me dig a little deaper to get one.

[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=690080]What do you think?[/link]

Looks like a nice Batt to get a good 100MPH+ (I am still dreaming here!)

Have Fun!
Andy