New AGM 30cc gas engine for sale and lease!
#1
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New AGM 30cc gas engine for sale and lease!
NEW AGM gas engine for sale and LEASE!
AGM engine factory just release the first 30CC gas engine for RC model plane use . As the first RC gas engine that
factory direct sell and support the US market , we do offer not only 100% satisfy guaranty for buyer . But also offer
ENGINE LEASE , for better customer experience of our products.
YES, ENGINE FOR LEASE! The first engine factory offer this service in USA and market !
So modeller can have experience for bench test, ground test ,and fly AGM gas engine before make decision to buy it !
Modeller who rent the engine from AGM also have got 50% case back from rent fee to buy same engine from our online
shop, Dealer and dropship also welcome ! Pls visit our website www.agm-engine.com for more info
Thnak you
AGM ENGINE
503 515 7590
4400 SE Naef RD
APT B21
Milwaukie, OR 97267
AGM engine factory just release the first 30CC gas engine for RC model plane use . As the first RC gas engine that
factory direct sell and support the US market , we do offer not only 100% satisfy guaranty for buyer . But also offer
ENGINE LEASE , for better customer experience of our products.
YES, ENGINE FOR LEASE! The first engine factory offer this service in USA and market !
So modeller can have experience for bench test, ground test ,and fly AGM gas engine before make decision to buy it !
Modeller who rent the engine from AGM also have got 50% case back from rent fee to buy same engine from our online
shop, Dealer and dropship also welcome ! Pls visit our website www.agm-engine.com for more info
Thnak you
AGM ENGINE
503 515 7590
4400 SE Naef RD
APT B21
Milwaukie, OR 97267
Last edited by AGMUSA; 08-08-2013 at 12:23 AM. Reason: words re new
#2
Member
I have purchased an Agm 30cc,it has been used for about 1 gallon of fuel.I have some issues with it that I hope you can help me with.I am using 95 fuel with silkolen high quality synthetic oil.1. It starts difficult ? even with choke it won't start!* Only when priming the engine with fuel it will start.Once it gets going it idles and runs ok, after about 20 - 30 minutes, once again it won't start, in warm temp 28-30 deg celcious.*I have tried adjusting the low end needle to various set ups with no success, it's about 1 turn out.2. The engine seems to run very rich, the high end needle is abot 1/2 turns out,I started with about 2 turns out to begin with ? Is that normal ?Don't get me wrong , once its running, it idles and runs good but with these isuues.I own also a DLE 20 with no such issues so I am well expirinced with gas engines.Your technical support will be highly appreciated.*
Thanks,
Udi
Thanks,
Udi
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Propworn (02-19-2020)
#5
Member
Well I have disassembled the carb and all the seals look ok,the carb looks clean,I cleaned it any way with carb cleaner any way.
I have this issue since day one .???
Need help?
I have this issue since day one .???
Need help?
#8
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Udi,
Do NOT use SYNTHETIC oil to break-in! This will NOT allow the rings to seat properly. Use a oil that does NOT contain synthetic oils. Use maybe PENNZOIL, for OUTDOOR Air-Cooled engines or Lawn-Boy.
These two are the best on the market. If you can't find them.... Let me know..
Gerry
Do NOT use SYNTHETIC oil to break-in! This will NOT allow the rings to seat properly. Use a oil that does NOT contain synthetic oils. Use maybe PENNZOIL, for OUTDOOR Air-Cooled engines or Lawn-Boy.
These two are the best on the market. If you can't find them.... Let me know..
Gerry
I have purchased an Agm 30cc,it has been used for about 1 gallon of fuel.I have some issues with it that I hope you can help me with.I am using 95 fuel with silkolen high quality synthetic oil.1. It starts difficult ? even with choke it won't start!* Only when priming the engine with fuel it will start.Once it gets going it idles and runs ok, after about 20 - 30 minutes, once again it won't start, in warm temp 28-30 deg celcious.*I have tried adjusting the low end needle to various set ups with no success, it's about 1 turn out.2. The engine seems to run very rich, the high end needle is abot 1/2 turns out,I started with about 2 turns out to begin with ? Is that normal ?Don't get me wrong , once its running, it idles and runs good but with these isuues.I own also a DLE 20 with no such issues so I am well expirinced with gas engines.Your technical support will be highly appreciated.*
Thanks,
Udi
Thanks,
Udi
#10
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I got one of these engines early this year.I installed it into a 30cc PILOT YAK 54. I had issues when trying to start it as well. It seemed that it wasn't drawing up fuel into the carb and I had to squirt a little gas into the cylinder to get it to start. I finally got ticked off enough to take it out of the plane and try and see what the issue was. What I discovered was that the choke flapper wasn't closing all the way so I removed the flapper and then filed it down until it would close fully. That solved the starting problem and the engine has run flawlessly ever since. Given the great price point I would buy another one again. The newer version even comes with a new pitts style muffler. I am now thinking about getting one of their new 60cc twins for my next project.
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The reason for that is because the diaphragm dries out. In order for it to draw fuel again you have to get it wet again, than it will close all of its pours. You can do this by, squirting gas in the carb and let it sit for about 20 min. and repeating the squirting of gas every 5 min. Or... If you can get to the carb, take the plate off and soak the diaphragm with gas, and let stand for 5 min. This is for ALL gas engines that have sat for long periods of time, even after 6 months you may have to do this.
I got one of these engines early this year.I installed it into a 30cc PILOT YAK 54. I had issues when trying to start it as well. It seemed that it wasn't drawing up fuel into the carb and I had to squirt a little gas into the cylinder to get it to start. I finally got ticked off enough to take it out of the plane and try and see what the issue was. What I discovered was that the choke flapper wasn't closing all the way so I removed the flapper and then filed it down until it would close fully. That solved the starting problem and the engine has run flawlessly ever since. Given the great price point I would buy another one again. The newer version even comes with a new pitts style muffler. I am now thinking about getting one of their new 60cc twins for my next project.
#12
The majority of calls I get on these engines is the issue of initially getting them to draw fuel. on Walbro carburetors under the fuel circuit cover (the aluminum cover with the single center screw) are the fuel passages.
The gasket is cut in a manner that it creates a check valve coming in from the fuel inlet barb. given time the small check valve portion of the gasket adheres to the metal surface of the carb and wont allow fuel draw.
The majority of the time this can be overcome by using your finger to completely seal off the carburetor throat creating better vacuum then can be achieved by the choke plate alone while flipping the engine over with the ignition off. this will usually break the small check valve free. On a few occasions it is necessary to pull the cover and free up the gasket. Take care on some older carbs on other engines when you pull the cover as they had a small needle and spring under them that is easily lost if not paying attention.
Jeff
Skyward Hobbies
The gasket is cut in a manner that it creates a check valve coming in from the fuel inlet barb. given time the small check valve portion of the gasket adheres to the metal surface of the carb and wont allow fuel draw.
The majority of the time this can be overcome by using your finger to completely seal off the carburetor throat creating better vacuum then can be achieved by the choke plate alone while flipping the engine over with the ignition off. this will usually break the small check valve free. On a few occasions it is necessary to pull the cover and free up the gasket. Take care on some older carbs on other engines when you pull the cover as they had a small needle and spring under them that is easily lost if not paying attention.
Jeff
Skyward Hobbies
#13
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And on a few occasions the IGNITION has been bad/or wrong type! We have see this in last few engines sold...
The majority of calls I get on these engines is the issue of initially getting them to draw fuel. on Walbro carburetors under the fuel circuit cover (the aluminum cover with the single center screw) are the fuel passages.
The gasket is cut in a manner that it creates a check valve coming in from the fuel inlet barb. given time the small check valve portion of the gasket adheres to the metal surface of the carb and wont allow fuel draw.
The majority of the time this can be overcome by using your finger to completely seal off the carburetor throat creating better vacuum then can be achieved by the choke plate alone while flipping the engine over with the ignition off. this will usually break the small check valve free. On a few occasions it is necessary to pull the cover and free up the gasket. Take care on some older carbs on other engines when you pull the cover as they had a small needle and spring under them that is easily lost if not paying attention.
Jeff
Skyward Hobbies
The gasket is cut in a manner that it creates a check valve coming in from the fuel inlet barb. given time the small check valve portion of the gasket adheres to the metal surface of the carb and wont allow fuel draw.
The majority of the time this can be overcome by using your finger to completely seal off the carburetor throat creating better vacuum then can be achieved by the choke plate alone while flipping the engine over with the ignition off. this will usually break the small check valve free. On a few occasions it is necessary to pull the cover and free up the gasket. Take care on some older carbs on other engines when you pull the cover as they had a small needle and spring under them that is easily lost if not paying attention.
Jeff
Skyward Hobbies