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  1. #26
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    I'm running the following equipment.

    Hitec A9 tx.
    Hitec Optima 9 rx
    Hitec HS 5685MH metal gear digital servos all surfaces
    Hitec HS85BB throttle servo
    Mintor 22 with a bowmen ring
    6 oz Dubro fuel tank with a gas stopper
    1650 mah 4.8 volt ig NimH battery
    2300 mah A123 battery on the radio equipment
    All my batteries come from Steve at hangtimes hobbies
    Zoar 17 X 6 prop
    2 MPI Ultra Switches from hangtime. One modified by Hangtime for A123 use during charging and balancing the A123.
    Bill

  2. #27
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Five more pictures of some mods I did after the maiden.

    Pic 1) My original install of the ig box was just hook and loop tape, or as some people call it velcro which is the brand. I didn't have any trouble with the ignition box coming loose but after talking with a fellow club member, I got chicken and decided to put a zip tie on it for good measure. Don't laugh at my throttle connection. I had to make the linkage that way to get good geometry on the throttle.

    Pic 2) on my original install, I didn't use any choke linkage. I found that engine vibration would close my choke within 30 seconds after start up and choke out the engine. I had to fly the maidens with a small piece of wire taped to the side of the fuse holding the choke open. As a result I made this little spring loaded linkage to hold the choke open. I just hold it closed during priming, let go and it's open.

    Pics 3) and 4) In all honesty, I'm not sure why I took them. It was late and I guess I just felt like I needed a close up of the tail feather linkages and servos.

    Pic 4) This is where I added one oz of lead to the tail wheel to help alleviate the nose heavy condition. It was stick on weight but I added a small zip tie for good measure.

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    Bill

  3. #28
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Flight report.
    With the additional oz of weight added to the tail wheel bracket the nose heavy tendency went away. This thing flys great. Even with the extra weight of a gas engine, this thing is a real floater. Loops, hovers, snaps, rolls, waterfalls, tail slides are all great. Inverted harriers are good however upright harriers tend to break left. I think I am the issue with this one as I haven't quite got my countermeasure with the rudder pegged for some reason. Might be the engine and propeller combo working against me... not sure. Since the plane does a good inverted, one would think upright would be the same. I'll have to practice this one. The little plane does good flat spins but I think it would be better on this manuver without the SFGs. Speaking of SFGs, this thing does about the easiest knife edge flight I've ever tried. As far as I'm concerned, this engine/model combo is a great choice and I hope to keep it for a long time. However, remember, I do go by Wildcrashwilly on these forums. I have earned that handle so we'll see if this model can survive me. I would also like to mention. I think that Bowmen ring is breaking in. I have been flying till my timer goes off at ten minutes and finding I still have a little over a qtr tank of fuel left. The first few flights I had., I ran out at ten and deadsticked. Also, it may be that I'm learning how this plane handles and I'm floating around more. Although this model had sloppy covering and an instruction manual that was a little weak, I can recommend other modelers try it with a good conscience. To anyone that may have viewed this thread., I hope it helps in some way. If you have any questions about what I did feel free to pm me in case I dont visit back here for a while.
    Bill

  4. #29
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    ORIGINAL: WILDCRASHWILLY

    My first complaint,

    Although the structure appears very well constructed, The covering job is probably the worst covering job I've ever seen on an Arf. The instruction manual states the covering will have wrinkles due to shipping humidity etc. but I don't believe for a minute it would contribute to the poor covering job on this particular model. I know this is a reputable company because I've seen their other work at the field. I think this thing must have been covered late on a Friday afternoon. It looks like the covering was heated and stuck down on the edges but never ironed down as a whole. I spent hours on all the components ironing and tightening in order to get it to look decent. In fact the covering was so loose, I was concerned it was on the airframe tight enough to even shrink the covering enough to form a tight fit. But, time and heat prevailed with a good finish. Unfortanately, there may not be enough shrinkage left for retightening.

    Have you had it out in the sun yet? That is frustrating..... sometimes that kind of covering job will sag easily in the sun. Good luck, keep us posted!
    PS - what kind of tubing did you use for your clunk line inside of the tank? I want to use a 6 oz tank too, and the tubing is so short that it seems not flexible enough. Thanks!

  5. #30
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Ernie,

    I have kept it out of the sun for exactly the reason you mentioned. When not flying, it's under a shelter we have stretching down the flightline and pits at our club.
    As far as fuel line goes, I'm running tygon in the tank. It's working now because thats all I had at the time. I picked up some of that black nitral stuff at Chief and will be changing it over sometime in the next few weeks. That will be on a rainey weekend. I know the tygon is less than desirable in the tank but I was impatient when I realized thats what I had. I really can't believe it's worked as good as it has. I've been lucky so far but it will bite me if I don't get it changed. For the most part I have been flying this thing at relatively low throttle commands. Now with the Bowman ring breaking in on 32 to 1 penzoil air cooled, I'm getting around 13 to 14 minutes of flight. Had it not been doing this for me, I would have never believed it. And thats with me landing and shutting down, not dead sticking it.
    Bill

  6. #31
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Thanks for the info! Good idea to keep it out of the sun with the history that covering job has. Strange that a company like that lets that get by. So you got by with tygon so far huh. I have heard that when submersed in gas it gets more flexible. That must be true because a 6 oz tank uses a really short and stiff piece. Do you have the name or a link to that Cheif Aircraft tubing? If neoprine (which is black) supposedly it will not stand up to ethanol in the gas. Are you running ethanol/gas? I have 2 20cc engines, the DLE and the XYZ, both still new. Also have that ProX260 like yours to use as a test bed for my gasser experience. Thanks for your suggestions and cool build thread. I assume you have read the very lengthy ProX260 build thread by "Goose" (I think)????

  7. #32
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Ernie"

    I was just thinking. I opened that fuel line I bought this week and feel my flight times will be longer because of it. It is much more flexible than tygon. I'm sure my tygon is interfering. It has softened some I think because of being immersed in fuel but, if I have a dry tank for while it will become stiff as bailing wire I'm sure. I was told this weekend after I had already ordered from Chief, that the local Stihl saw dealer stocks this black line.
    Bill

  8. #33
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Thanks Bill, ... do have a Stihl dealer nearby!

  9. #34
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Yes I do but I haven't been by there yet. My thinking was that if they have it then most saw shops probably carry it. I suspect from your location, you have a lot of lumber industry as I do.
    Bill

  10. #35
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    RE: PRO X 260 Assemb/Build Thread Gas Engine

    Ooops, I meant to say that I DO have a Stihl dealer nearby. Thanks for all the tips.

  11. #36
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    Ernie,

    Thought I would give a little update. I have taken the tygon line out of the tank and replaced it with the black neoprene line. In addition, the Bowman ring has broken in. As a result I'm getting fifteen minute flights as a norm. With the little Mintor, I normally only fly at quarter to a third throttle. You just don't use that much fuel idling around in the sky. I've run about two gallons of fuel mixed at 32 to 1 Penzoil Air Cooled through it at this point. After I've gone through three, I'll switch to Stihl HP Ultra at 40 to 1.
    Bill

  12. #37
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    Thanks for the updates! If you used the black Stihl tubing, hopefully it is not really quite neoprene because neoprene does not stand up to gas with ethanol in it. I believe the Stihl stuff is okay for ethanolated gas. BTW, if you go to Home Depot and get some of the Echo trimmer brand black tubing, it is even more flexible than the Stihl tubing. No kidding, it is easily as flexible as glow fuel silicone tubing. Good to hear you are having fun with your Mintor combo. The Penzoil Air Cooled is no longer available. It's been bought out by Shell and they do have the same oil but it's bottled for ultralight airplane guys and should be found at airports I think.

  13. #38
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    Thanks for the updates! If you used the black Stihl tubing, hopefully it is not really quite neoprene because neoprene does not stand up to gas with ethanol in it. I believe the Stihl stuff is okay for ethanolated gas. BTW, if you go to Home Depot and get some of the Echo trimmer brand black tubing, it is even more flexible than the Stihl tubing. No kidding, it is easily as flexible as glow fuel silicone tubing. Good to hear you are having fun with your Mintor combo. The Penzoil Air Cooled is no longer available. It's been bought out by Shell and they do have the same oil but it's bottled for ultralight airplane guys and should be found at airports I think.

    PS - Dubro (I think) does still sell black neoprene but I doubt if they sell much of it. Just for kicks you should ask the Stihl dealer if their tubing is okay to use with ethanol or if you have to buy the bottled gas mix they sell.

  14. #39
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    Ernie,

    I need to make a correction here. I should have been clearer in my previous statement. Even though I went to the Stihl dealer they hold dual brands. In fact the rolls they pulled the tubing off of were Echo brand. Also, I found a station that sells ethanol free gas. Unfortunately I can get ONLY 90 octane. The ZDZ's state to use 94 or higher. I can't find that in ethonol free without going over to the local airport and getting 100 low lead. I don't know for sure how this would react in our little 2cycles. I'm afraid the small amount of lead might promote carbon build up. I must admit, my logic is not sound concerning this and someone more familiar with fuel properties should probably jump in here.
    Bill

  15. #40
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    The lead fouls plugs also. Nasty stuff. Why not just add a little octane booster to that 90 octane you can get? Also you could ask that dealer whether the echo / stihl stuff is ethanol friendly. Please do if you get a chance - we would like to know. Hopefully most anything you can by nowadays except for the old neoprene is okay for ethanol. So perhaps you do not need to shy away from the gas with ethanol in it. Let us know what they say about the two types of tubing and ethanol. Thanks.

  16. #41
    WILDCRASHWILLY's Avatar
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    Ernie,

    I called the dealer today. They could not tell if the fuel line is neoprene or viton. They said it was Echo fuel line. I asked them about the rating as far as ethonal goes. All they could tell me was that ALL newer Echo equipment was rated to handle up-to 10% ethanol. I really don't like blanket statements like that but, that's all I could get from them. The Echo part numbers are 90014 for the 3/32 and 90015 for the 5/32 fuel line. I went to Echo-usa.com and tried to find some data but failed to find anything.
    Concerning octane booster, how does that work? I thought the booster added ethanol but in all honesty I'm not familiar with it as I've never used it. I've read a lot of your posts over the years and respect your opinion. Your thoughts on the leaded gas is good enough for me, as a result, I'm staying away from the 100LL avgas

    Thanks for the input,
    Bill

  17. #42
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    Thanks Willy. Guys like W8eye know a whole lot more than I do. He's also on chain saw engine forums and all kinds of stuff. I did grow up racing go karts and motorcycles and that helps. When I was a teenage I had the privilege of being the 2-stroke mechanic in a motorcycle shop. Man was that fun for a kid! Evel Kneivel came to town a couple of times and set up shop with us. I got to help repair his triumph bonneville and still have the tachometer off of his bike. Too bad I did not get him to sign it! Anyway, I think you are good to go with any of the black tubing they sold you. Just don't use the pure neoprene black that Dubro sells. We know the ethanol eats it up. Also the Hayes brand tanks some with black clunk line that is not ethanol safe. I would keep an eye on it though (assuming you are going to go ahead and run the ethanolated gas) and maybe pull the clunk out of the tank and check that line after a full season just to be on the safe side. If in doubt as to the octane you are running, keep it a tad on the rich side, and listen for any pinging (like a frying egg sound) on the hot up lines. Check out the octane booster they sell in little bottles at the auto parts store. I don't think it is ethanol but you should read the ingredients or talk to the store folks. If you ever think it is running too lean or hot, pull a hot up line then kill the engine immediately and glide in for a landing. Then pull the plug and see if it is tan like it shoud be, or white like it has been running too hot.

  18. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ernie Misner View Post
    Thanks Willy. Guys like W8eye know a whole lot more than I do. He's also on chain saw engine forums and all kinds of stuff. I did grow up racing go karts and motorcycles and that helps. When I was a teenage I had the privilege of being the 2-stroke mechanic in a motorcycle shop. Man was that fun for a kid! Evel Kneivel came to town a couple of times and set up shop with us. I got to help repair his triumph bonneville and still have the tachometer off of his bike. Too bad I did not get him to sign it! Anyway, I think you are good to go with any of the black tubing they sold you. Just don't use the pure neoprene black that Dubro sells. We know the ethanol eats it up. Also the Hayes brand tanks some with black clunk line that is not ethanol safe. I would keep an eye on it though (assuming you are going to go ahead and run the ethanolated gas) and maybe pull the clunk out of the tank and check that line after a full season just to be on the safe side. If in doubt as to the octane you are running, keep it a tad on the rich side, and listen for any pinging (like a frying egg sound) on the hot up lines. Check out the octane booster they sell in little bottles at the auto parts store. I don't think it is ethanol but you should read the ingredients or talk to the store folks. If you ever think it is running too lean or hot, pull a hot up line then kill the engine immediately and glide in for a landing. Then pull the plug and see if it is tan like it shoud be, or white like it has been running too hot.

    I have 100+ flight on mine this summer alone. Second year on this plane and it is still a blast to fly!
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  19. #44
    Ernie Misner's Avatar
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    Awesome Steinywi!!! That is quite a "flying field" you have there. I bet there would be huge thermals for the glider guys too. What engine do you have on your ProX260? Thanks for the update. Oh, and with so many flights on it, what all can you tell us about setting it up, etc.? Thanks

  20. #45

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    My ProX260 is setup with the following:
    Mintor 22 with Zoar 17x6 prop
    Hitec 5985's everywhere
    Fromeco regulator with pin switch and single 2600 Fromeco battery (good for 5 flights)
    Tech-Aero IBEC
    JR XG8 DMSS radio
    No weight added for balance!
    It is setup a bit tail heavy, and likes it.


    I think have put 5 gallons through this plane (over the last two years) with out ever missing a beat.
    I take it with me when I work out of town. Currently I am in Vegas flying off a dry lake bed by Boulder City Nevada.
    They just had the free flight championships there last week.

    This is the most fun you can have with a plane. And I cannot find something that it won't do.
    It is my no stress just go throw it around and land plane!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfhTkc2U4cE

    Test flight with camera!
    Last edited by steinywi; 10-19-2013 at 02:48 PM.

  21. #46
    I just maidened my 90 prox260 2 days ago, i only got 2 flights out of her but man i can already tell its going to be a fun plane! It will knife edge all day long and i got a couple flat spins out of it but didnt want to ring it out to much on the first couple flights. One problem i did have was the wing bolt vibrating out a little bit. I dont ever remove the wings so a little loctite and it was good to go. I had a NIB super tigre g90 that i put in it. Its still breaking in but plenty of power, only thing is i get a lot of resonance throughout the plane. Im not sure if there are bushings i can put on the motor mount bolts or something like that to help it out?

  22. #47

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    Balance prop, spinner?

    I have a rubber o-ring on my wing bolt, never an issue

  23. #48
    The spinner was a little out of balance and i fly on a grass runway so i dont have the wheel collars tightened up snug with the wheels. After correcting those 2 problems i didnt have as much of an issue. This is one sweet flying bird though, i was a little worried as while i was building i seen the guys on the profile brotherhood forum dogging it, turns out they dont like anything but omp products

  24. #49

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    Is the Mintor 22cc engine running good yet? My friend has one just like it.
    I never met a engine I did not like !

  25. #50
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    Wing resonance

    Quote Originally Posted by goatesrc View Post
    I just maidened my 90 prox260 2 days ago, i only got 2 flights out of her but man i can already tell its going to be a fun plane! It will knife edge all day long and i got a couple flat spins out of it but didnt want to ring it out to much on the first couple flights. One problem i did have was the wing bolt vibrating out a little bit. I dont ever remove the wings so a little loctite and it was good to go. I had a NIB super tigre g90 that i put in it. Its still breaking in but plenty of power, only thing is i get a lot of resonance throughout the plane. Im not sure if there are bushings i can put on the motor mount bolts or something like that to help it out?
    If the wing roots are warped slightly and don't sit flush onto the fuse sides when tight, you will get a lot of resonance through out the plane when flying. A light layer of silicone rubber in the low spots helped my profiles out that way.


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