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CL to RC conv.?

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Old 01-13-2017, 10:27 AM
  #1
cbaker65
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Default CL to RC conv.?

I recently got my hands on some old CL planes ,in which I think the bigger one can be out fitted with RC radio gear if done right!
My concern would I have to alter the location of the engine to where it will coincide with the CG ,like move it further back?
Ive noticed that a lot of these type planes ,the nose appear rather short!
Also ,what would be the least smallest engine that would power this in a hand launch form?

Wing span 48''
Fuse length 32''
Nose length from the leading edge of wing is 7 1/2''




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Old 01-13-2017, 05:14 PM
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All Day Dan
 
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Use this website to locate the CG for RC. Inlude the ailerons as part of the wing. Put the CG at 27.5%. Use ballast to get it right. Dan.
http://edgewoodflyers.com/GroupResou...4/Default.aspx
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Day Dan View Post
Use this website to locate the CG for RC. Inlude the ailerons as part of the wing. Put the CG at 27.5%. Use ballast to get it right. Dan.
http://edgewoodflyers.com/GroupResou...4/Default.aspx
Thank you ,that will help a lot!...
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:55 AM
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Hey cbaker65 Yup I love the time honored practive of kit bashing too. Although my preference is the other way around RC to Controlline but heck just wanted you to be aware that many controlline airplanes not all, but many do feature unequal length wings and in every such case its always a longer left wing.

Not sure what you have there and its hard to tell from the pics. So do measure your
wings and if they are not you need to understand that can become a much bigger project.

Also as noted most RC airplanes fly at around 25% MAC or a little more and many controlline models are around 10% or perhaps a little more. So you need to make allowance for that as well.

Ya keep on bashin

John
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:59 AM
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Looks like a Sig "Twister", if my memory serves me right the fuselage is offset, wing longer on the left side of the fuselage.
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBuckner View Post
Hey cbaker65 Yup I love the time honored practive of kit bashing too. Although my preference is the other way around RC to Controlline but heck just wanted you to be aware that many controlline airplanes not all, but many do feature unequal length wings and in every such case its always a longer left wing.

Not sure what you have there and its hard to tell from the pics. So do measure your
wings and if they are not you need to understand that can become a much bigger project.

Also as noted most RC airplanes fly at around 25% MAC or a little more and many controlline models are around 10% or perhaps a little more. So you need to make allowance for that as well.

Ya keep on bashin

John
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Originally Posted by Bill Diedrich View Post
Looks like a Sig "Twister", if my memory serves me right the fuselage is offset, wing longer on the left side of the fuselage.
Thnx Guy's!

Some one else brought that to my attention ,an I did measure it .they are the same size at 24'' from fuse to wing tip.!
It is a twister!
The rudder was hinged for adjustable angle as well ,so all I have to do is add the control rod!

The person who built this was heavily into CL flying ,he built several planes ,an probably figured he would build them the same!
They where in a barn that they had to clean out because they sold the property & orchard fields!

I will take pics of the measures & rudder!...
I don't see any reasons why this cant be flown as rc,,Ive seen all kinds of funky stuff fly!.....

Last edited by cbaker65; 01-19-2017 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:57 AM
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Heres the pics ,the wings are real close measurement!
An the rudder with adjustable link.



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Old 02-09-2017, 08:29 PM
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You'll need to open up the wing to install the RC gear and to remove the bellcrank and leadouts. When you do you might consider clipping a rib bay or two off the wing to sharpen up the roll response. Control line stunt models tend to have LONG wings because they don't have any need to roll but want a lot of wing area for the pitching maneuvers.

The other thing about the balance point is that CL models of this sort tended to use 15 to 20% CG locations. But they use big engines. You may find that you need to shorten the nose to let you get the CG back to the roughly 30% point which would work better for RC. Or you need to select a lighter engine than the usual .35 glow engine that these models use.

Find a set of plans or instruction manual for the Twister. Odd are that the maple engine bearers extend back well behind the present engine location. If this is true then you'll find that you can cut off the present engine location altogether and then carve out a new crankcase well and drill for new mounting bolts and end up neatly shorter and trimmer without too much problem at all.

If it turns out there's no room for a clunk tank behind the engine then stick it on the other side like the old style fun fly models did. The cool thing then is you can do a low and slow and check the fuel level!
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMatthews View Post
You'll need to open up the wing to install the RC gear and to remove the bellcrank and leadouts. When you do you might consider clipping a rib bay or two off the wing to sharpen up the roll response. Control line stunt models tend to have LONG wings because they don't have any need to roll but want a lot of wing area for the pitching maneuvers.

The other thing about the balance point is that CL models of this sort tended to use 15 to 20% CG locations. But they use big engines. You may find that you need to shorten the nose to let you get the CG back to the roughly 30% point which would work better for RC. Or you need to select a lighter engine than the usual .35 glow engine that these models use.

Find a set of plans or instruction manual for the Twister. Odd are that the maple engine bearers extend back well behind the present engine location. If this is true then you'll find that you can cut off the present engine location altogether and then carve out a new crankcase well and drill for new mounting bolts and end up neatly shorter and trimmer without too much problem at all.

If it turns out there's no room for a clunk tank behind the engine then stick it on the other side like the old style fun fly models did. The cool thing then is you can do a low and slow and check the fuel level!

Back in the 90's I converted a standard Sterling Ringmaster to R/C with 3 channels used. Power was a old 4 bolt Fox 19R/C. The rudder was fixed and it was always hand launched. It was a very good flying model with one exception. No rudder no spins. It met its demise when a friend forgot that cavat and put it into a spin with no rudder no chance to recover. Lesson learned, always install a rudder if your going to let your friends fly your fun models.
I also did a Jetco/Mcfarland Shark 45 With a HP 40. You need less power as you do not have the drag of the lines.
As to your profile you can affect your CG by doing what is commonly done on modern RC models and move the elevator/rudder servos to the rear of the model. If you were doing electric it would be a simple matter to relocate the equipment and you would only need about a E-flite 25 for the model with exceptional performance.
I'm going to convert a Dare/Sterling Navion to R/C with a 10 E-flite electric and expect it to outperform the old glow version significantly. With a 43 inch W/S it will be less than 40 oz. Should be fun.

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