Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

I have seen a couple threads awile back on the OMP YAK54, but so far not much info on the kit. Ive started building mine so I can be ready for the upcomming pro bro season. Got a YS 110 sittin waiting on it.
Ive built the fuse and my first thought is the balsa - sheeted foam - 1/4" balsa edged fuse is at least as much work if not more than a built up fuse and weighs more. I like the design of mounting the wing to the fuse. Looks like an awsome plane!
Come on now, anyone else building this bird?

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

I have one setting in the box, I have a small project in front of it, but when I get done with that. then I will start on the Yak. I am going to use a OS91 2stroke and moosecan muffler. I think the weight comes in at 7lbs. IF so my OS91fx w/ stock muffler will pull out of hover just fine, and the moosecan should make it even better. and it if comes out at 7lbs your YS110 will launch it out of a hover like a rocket.

CGAV8R

My Feedback: (2)

Great plane, the ys110 and os.91 are both good choices. You will be very happy with the flying quality of the plane.

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

Ok Ive ran into a bit of a snag, it appears the wing has 1/4" positive incedence at the front? I would have thought a profile 3D plane would be zero. What ive done is draw the trust line on the fuse as per plans, which is down the center of the horizontal stab through the center of the wing tube and engine mount. And drawn the centerline on the two plywood wing root ribs, which is through the front hole excatly and near the top of the rib at the back. When i stack a balsa rib on top of the plywood rib ( the basla ribs are symetrical, and the plywood ones are not because of the mounting system) the balsa rib has the same centerline as the plywood one does but when i put the front hole on the fuse centerline, the rear part of the line on the rib is 1/4" lower than the line on the fuse, is this correct?

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

Also curious to anyone flying a YS 110 whats the ultimate funfly prop? 15-4 apc? 16-4 apc? other?

fokker34

It is totally beyond comprenhension why anyone would debate the reason a well flying design should be questioned. If you have a problelm then design your own aircraft. The Yak performs all maneuvers asked of it with no problem. Without a doubt the finest profile 3-D plane on the market today. Keep the incidence as specified and you will be more than pleased.

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

Hey dude, don't get your panties into a twist. U'm not questioning WHY there is postive incedence, i am questioning IS there postive incedence or am i building it wrong? If there is 1/4" incedence thats fine but since i got one of the first kits I am wondering if ive done something wrong. The manual and plans says nothing about the incedence i am just going off of marks on the plans

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

dam fokker a little harsh don't ya think...... constrictor I wish I could answer your question. my yak won't be here untill the end of the month, if I don't buy a little at a time the boss(my wife) can get moody and spend more than me I would think 1/4 positive is not correct... like you stated most PRO's are zero's across the board. I would be asking just like your doing...If it's supposed to be like that so be it. better to ask now than regret it later! I'm sure one of the OMP guy's will be along to confirm the incedence.


Good luck and how bout a nice maiden flight report

John

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

constrictor,
call omp and ask them. I am interested as well.. I am hoping mine will go on the building board this week. I have one small project to finish, and it should only take 1 night as soon as I get my parts in. then I am staring on the YAK

Is there anything during the building process you would do differant. anything I need to look out for.

bentgear

Constrictor, the YS 91 likes an APC 16 x 4 W so the 110 should like it or a little more. That was with Wildcat 20/20.

m.gramling, don't do like I did and put too much Gorila glue on during the fuse construction. Had to get a new fuse. This time a THIN - THIN coat on the balsa only. The first one I put the stuff on thin, but put it on the foam and the balsa. Big mistake. I didn't know balsa and foam could get that wavy with that much weight stacked on top of it.

Ed M.

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

bentgear,
thanks for the tip, I am not that much of a builder, I am more of a put together'er. I have build a few planes in my 5 years of flying. But most ARFs are junk. So normally I pay a friend of mine to frame one up for me.

I want to build this one. I have never worked w/ foam before so this YAK is going to teach me something.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry for the delay guys but I've been out of town in DC lately. The incidence on the wing IS 0 degrees! The stab is not on the center line but slightly above the center line so you can not draw a line from the stab center to the wing. See the plans, it is clear were the lines are since they are already drawn on the plans. Engine and wing are on the same line at 0 degrees. Stab is also at 0 degrees and slightly above the thrust line. Hope this helps!

mike pilkenton

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

On the foam balsa build ups: This is the wave of the future boys and girls. It has been the standard for many giant scale planes for a long time so if you are new to balsa sheeted foam do your homework first on glues and techniques as it is different than conventional glued wood. The result is quicker and stronger I guarantee it. We've built the profiles with wood and with foam and the weight is virtually identical. The other big advantage to foam is no more poking your fingers through the sheeting when you snatch the plane.

Mike

STEVE LENZ

My Feedback: (45)

Mike do you snatch your big edge 540?

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

It's been done many many times in the past. BUT, now I have to officially say "we don't do that anymore" if you get my drift.

Salmon

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

can somebody tell me which way the servos mount in the tail. The look like on the plans the control arms of the servos are on the left side.

My servo wire channel is on the left side. It doesn't look like it possible to have the servos arms on the left side, and then run the servo wires down the left side as well. It looks like the servo wire channel should be on the right side of fuselage. Or did you just poke your servo wire back thru the holes and then run them down the ledge side of fuselage. to me it would make more sence that the servo channel would be on the right side.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, everything faces the ledt side to stay out of the oil exhaust spray. Both arms are on the left side and both servo wires run through the channel on the left side. The rudder servo wire simply feeds through the under side of the elevator servo and into the channel.

Mike

Pugsley-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Yo Snake.....

I'd go with a 17x6 on that YS 1.10.....

Pugs

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

OK, I fiqured out the servo arms question.

On the tail servos. Do the bottom of servos stick out on right side. It looks like my servos are gonna stick out on the right side. So it looks like I might have to build me a thicker fly servo mount, to keep my servos from sticking out the right side.

I was hoping to get the fuselage started tonight, but it looks like it will be tomorrow or friday night.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HEY FOKKER34, you're in the wrong forum dude. CONSTRICTOR! Hi, I just wanted to chime in about FOKKERS' "KNOW IT ALL" approach to your question, looks like you had very good reason to question what you saw, and that's what this forum is all about. It's amazing to see what oozes up through the cracks around here from time to time. [:'(]Looks like you're in good hands with the advice you've been given, looking forward to see it when you're done!

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Yes the servos will definately stick out the right side because the fuse is only 7/8 inches thick. This is the case with most profiles unless your fuselage is thicker than the servos. DOn't worry, it's normal and don't add ply to thicken up the servo mounts. You don't want the servos sticking out the left side any more than flush or you will mess up your pushrod geometry. Build exactly as per plans and photos and you will be fine.

Mike

TailTwister

My Feedback: (1)

I'm interested in this plane too. Keep the info flowing, please.

My YS91FZ pulled my 7.75 pound Su Do Khoi 60 like it was nothing on a 16x4W from APC. It ran at 10,100 rpm on Wildcat 20/20 fuel. The ads say that you may get another 700 rpm from the new 110. This might lead to an over-rev situation. More prop may be in order. I'd hesitate to go past a pitch of 6, however.

Sorry Fokker34, looks like Brother Constrictor had a righteous question... Amazing, post number 2 and you already have the "know it all" tag on. Is that a record or something.

Anyway, the Yak looks good to me. I hope one of you folks wrap it up and teach us all something new with the project.

Didn't I hear about an ARF in the works soon? Apologies to all who are building them now, if I'm correct...

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

I am hoping to get my fuse skinned today, and hopefully tomorrow, by tomorrow night have it it done.

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

I got my fuselage sheeted and capped. Hopefully in the next day or so, I can finish my fuselage.

I wasn't really looking forward to working w/ the foam fuselage. This was my first time working w/ foam. But, I am pleased, and it wasn't bad at all. IMHO if its easier than working w/ a balsa fuselage I don't know. It probably is, This is the first thing I have build in almost 2 years.

Blackie

Add me to the list of the OMP Yak-54

I'll be using an Satio 100 for the power plant, with a 15X6.
Mini digital servos all the way around. Any thoughts on this?

I'll start of by saying that I am by far a pro at building as a matter of a fact this would be my very first kit, I only hope I didn't bite off more then I can chew.

If I may I would like to call upon those of you that are familiar with this plane as I am sure to have questions.

The fuse is sheeted using Probond. I used concrete center blocks for weight. Still needs some sanding.
The horizontal stab and elevator are built, need finishing touches.
The virtical stab and rudder are built, need finishing touches.

Questions?
1. On the fuse channel am I supposed to cut the sheeting away from the channel or do I leave the sheeting over the duct?
2. When installing the horizantal stab, am I supposed to sever the bar that joins both elevators halves together? This part is kind of confusing to me as it seems the fuse is closed at the rear. The halves come with a joining rod that ties both together. I'm thinking that I'm supposed to cut the 3/8" sq balsa that joins both halves together?

More questions to come as the build progresses.

Thanks
Blackie