OMP Yak build
02-20-2004, 09:53 AM
#51
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
That's much better, and I agree, a manufacturer should help us out with that. I like to scan mine into the PC, and work on them with MS Paint.
It helps a ton, for those of us with poor imagination.
It helps a ton, for those of us with poor imagination.
02-20-2004, 10:34 AM
#53
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
I used to do that, but the paper cost was killing me.
I'm 33, and have (big time) Adult A.D.D. I change my mind and tweek for a long time before I'm done. MS Paint makes that easier for me. It also helpds out with fonts for lettering and such.
My "best case" scenario is seeing a job that I like on line, and downloading a few pics.
I'm 33, and have (big time) Adult A.D.D. I change my mind and tweek for a long time before I'm done. MS Paint makes that easier for me. It also helpds out with fonts for lettering and such.
My "best case" scenario is seeing a job that I like on line, and downloading a few pics.
02-20-2004, 01:28 PM
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
That's correct, only the bottom where the servo is mounted is sheeted completely from rib to rib. The top side only has the rib caps on them. The instructions annotate this when you flip the wing over to complete the top side.
Mike
Mike
02-20-2004, 02:00 PM
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
To be honest when I got that far along I didnt look at the directions. I assumed you would want to sheet the top to form a strong box around the servo supports and for no more than it weighs Im glad I did because It really firmed up the ribs the servos attach to. Just my "little extra touch"
02-20-2004, 02:21 PM
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Does the LE have as much taper in it as those drawings show? If so, does that give the plane any bad tendencies ( tip stalls, Snaps etc..)?
02-20-2004, 03:15 PM
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Stargazer,
I have about 10 flights on mine over the past week and no, it doesn't have any bad habits at all. It is the best profile I've flown by far. I live at 5,000' and the performance is outstanding, at sea level it should be out of this world! Just follow the directions exactly and you will have a sweet airplane, no need for anybody to second guess the designer.
Good luck,
Rob
Anvil Aerobatic Team
I have about 10 flights on mine over the past week and no, it doesn't have any bad habits at all. It is the best profile I've flown by far. I live at 5,000' and the performance is outstanding, at sea level it should be out of this world! Just follow the directions exactly and you will have a sweet airplane, no need for anybody to second guess the designer.
Good luck,
Rob
Anvil Aerobatic Team
02-20-2004, 04:31 PM
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RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Strgazer,
I'm using a OS .91 two stroke. I've tried two different props so far, a 15 x 4 Zinger Pro and a regular Zinger 16 x 5. the 16 x 5 is my favorite so far but will keep experimenting as the weather gets better. The temp. has been cool so not sure what I will need when it gets hot over here but for now I have plenty of power.
Rob
Team Anvil Aerobatics
I'm using a OS .91 two stroke. I've tried two different props so far, a 15 x 4 Zinger Pro and a regular Zinger 16 x 5. the 16 x 5 is my favorite so far but will keep experimenting as the weather gets better. The temp. has been cool so not sure what I will need when it gets hot over here but for now I have plenty of power.
Rob
Team Anvil Aerobatics
02-21-2004, 06:34 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Just ordered my kit today. Can't wait to get started on it. Has anyone out there put a Saito .91 on theirs? I have one on a UCD 46 and was wondering if it would be enough pull for the Yak. The other option is a Magnum .91XLS. Trying to save a few pennies and these are my only two choices right now.
02-23-2004, 08:25 AM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
I have a magnum xls 91 waiting for mine. I had this engine on my ecsatcy for a little while and It ran great. My ecstacy was a bit over 8 lbs and pullout was OK but not great. At 7 lbs or so where this bird will come in, it should work great. I may buy an Ultrthrust muffler for it if it needs a bit more motor. It had the same rpm on the same prop as my OS 91 fx using the same muffler, but then I guess it should It is almost an exact copy
I dont know which is worse, my typing or my spelling
I dont know which is worse, my typing or my spelling
02-24-2004, 06:25 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Thanks for a great thread.
I have a Yak kit that should be here at the end of this week. It should be here just as I am putting my finishing touches on my GS540. I can not wait to get started on the Yak. I have a YS 110 waiting for it. That should be a dynamite combination.
I have a Yak kit that should be here at the end of this week. It should be here just as I am putting my finishing touches on my GS540. I can not wait to get started on the Yak. I have a YS 110 waiting for it. That should be a dynamite combination.
02-24-2004, 11:35 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Mike, can you please point out where it states not to sheet the top side of the wing over the servo bay. I was unable to locate that part. I like the others also sheeted both sides.
I would also like to mention this is my very first kit and as others mentioned in this thread I had one hell of a time trying to make out what the manual was trying to tell me.
Wing Build
1. A jig is provided for the wing trailing edge which allows you to build each wing panel flat on your building board. Take the lite-ply piece marked “Main Wing Jig†and glue on pieces of scrap balsa sticks left over from the previous construction to the bottom edges of the jig and pin it flush to the building board. The jig will run the length of the trailing edge and support the rib trailing edges at the correct height off of the building board. Note that the taller end of the jig is the "root" end and must rest under R1A only and not the R1 ply rib. This is important as the rear tab on R1 will extend higher than the trailing edge stock.
2. Draw center lines on the R1 and R8 ribs (use fuselage drawing to locate R1 center line). Using the plans as a guide, mark all rib locations with a soft pencil along the wing jig, top spar, and 3/32" sub leading edge piece.
3. Laminate the 1/8" R1A ribs over the R1 ply root ribs making sure they are aligned properly with the wing hole and edges. Be sure to make a left and right hand set.
4. Pin one of the 1/4†sq. balsa wing spars in place as shown on the plans.
5. Carefully cut out the rib angle template provided and glue to a piece of scrap wood. Sand the edges to match the template perfectly. Now glue each rib to the lower spar at exactly the proper angle using the guide and making sure each rib is fully seated. The ribs should tilt toward the tip just slightly. Note that the rear mounting tab on R1 and the notches on R3 and R4 will face upward at this time (right wing panel). When repeating this step for the left wing panel, the R1 tab and R3/R4 notches will face downward! Use thick CA to tack glue the rib trailing edges to the jig.
Important Builder’s Tip: Double-check the alignment of the ribs by measuring the height of the center lines drawn on the root and tip ribs. The LE and TE heights should be equal for each individual rib. You may also temporarily pin a straight piece of balsa stock (about two feet long) to the root and tip ribs on the center lines and check that they are parallel. Shim the ends of the wing jig to make any minor corrections.
6. Glue the top spar in place making sure it is fully seated into the notches of each rib and aligned on the pencil marks you previously made.
7. Glue the 3/32†balsa sub-leading edge piece to the front of the ribs making sure it is centered from top and bottom. Note that it will fit flush against R1 and in front of R1A. Use thin CA at each joint as you go from rib to rib.
8. Repeat the above procedure for the 1/4" x 1/2" trailing edge stock. Make sure the stock is centered top to bottom on each rib. Note that it will fit flush against R1 and to the rear of R1A.
9. Using pieces of 1/16†balsa cut from the 3†by 36†sheets provided, glue in place the shear webbing between each rib (flush against the inboard ribs) and in front of the spar. Use the rib angle template you made to accurately cut the proper angle on the inboard side of each shear web. This step will "lock in" the angle of the ribs so again, make sure you are accurate. Start at the root and work toward the tip. The strength of the wing depends on the shear webbing so don’t be stingy with the glue. The grain should run vertically!
10. Cut the wing tube socket into two 10" long pieces and slide one into the wing. Glue to the ribs using thin CA and glue to the shear webs using thick CA. Measure the exact length of the aluminum wing tube, subtract 7/8" and then divide by 2 (it should be close to 10 1/16 inches). This figure will be the amount of wing tube that extends into each outer wing panel. Add about 1/16" so that the wing tube does not bind and put a pencil mark on the top wing spar as measured from the R1 rib. A 2.75" piece of 1/4" sq. basswood is provided and must be trimmed to fit between the top and bottom spar for the wing tube end stop. Glue in place with CA.
11. From the remaining piece of 3/8" x 1.5" balsa used for the rudder and elevator gussets, cut pieces to fit between R1A and the LE stock, and R1A and the TE stock. Use the plans as a guide and note the grain direction. It's best to glue these in with epoxy.
12. Using a long sanding block, carefully sand the top of the ribs at the spar location to remove any irregularities. Also sand the 3/32†sub-leading edge and the trailing edge stock flush to the tops of the ribs. Be careful not to distort the airfoil shape of the ribs or break apart any glue joints. The use of a razor plane makes trimming these pieces much easier.
13. Four 1/16†by 1 1/2†by 36" balsa sheets have been provided for the trailing edge sheeting. Glue in place one of these to the top of the ribs as shown on the plans. Make sure the edge of the sheeting is flush with the rear edge of the TE stock. You will have to notch the sheeting to fit tight against the R1 tab. Minor differences at the trailing edge can be block sanded out later.
14. Three sheets of 1/16†x 3†x 36†balsa have been provided for the LE sheeting of each wing. Edge sand these pieces and glue them together making one sheet 9†x 36â€. Cut the sheet in two as shown in the diagram below. You should now have two sheets with one end 4" wide and the other end 5" wide. Take one sheet and place it over the wing with the front edge overlapping the sub LE (it’s ok to let it overhang here a little). You must notch the sheeting to clear the plywood wing mounting tab at the leading edge. You should be able to easily bend the thin balsa over the ribs (wet the balsa if necessary). Now mark both ends of the sheeting at the half way point of the main spar and cut off the excess sheeting from end to end. Your goal is to have the final sheeting glued in place and cover at least half the main spar. This allows the rib cap strips and center sheeting something to glue to.
15. Before gluing the LE sheeting on, it is critical to make sure R1 is perfectly straight from LE to TE. If necessary, pin blocks of wood to your building board on the inboard and outboard sides of R1 to hold it in alignment. When satisfied, glue the the front edge of the sheeting to the sub-LE stock using CA. Masking tape can be used quite effectively to hold the sheeting in place. Once the front edge is secure, hold up the sheeting (without breaking it!) and apply thick CA to the tops of each rib and along the main spar. Now begin at the root and press the sheeting down in place using pins or masking tape to anchor it along the way. Work your way out from the root and make sure you do not pull the ribs out of alignment!
16. Using 1/16†x 3" balsa, sheet the inboard section of the wing between R1 and R2 from the main spar to the TE sheeting. Begin by cutting four pieces of sheeting 5" long and gluing them together on a flat building board. Sand both sides smooth, lay over the wing, mark and trim accordingly. Save the angled piece you cut off for the other side of the wing or the servo bay.
NOTE: Complete the following aileron servo mount steps for the right wing panel the first time through. When building the left wing panel, skip the next two steps until flipping the wing panel over to complete the other side.
17. Build the servo bay area by cutting and gluing in place two 1/4â€sq. balsa rails into the precut notches in R3 and R4. Cut and glue in place two 1/8" x 3/8" x 4" balsa servo rail supports to ribs R3 and R4 below these rails (see plans for illustration). Glue the plywood servo mount on top of these rails as shown on the plans. Finally glue in small lengths of 1/16" x 1/4" balsa scraps to the tops of the 1/4" sq. balsa rails to make the structure flush to the tops of the ribs. Sand smooth once the glue cures.
18. Sheet the servo bay between R3 and R4 using 1/16†x 3" balsa using the same technique as the root bay sheeting. Save any cutoff pieces for future use. Finally, cut the sheeting away for your servo openings.
19. Using strips of 1/16†x 1/4†balsa provided, glue in place the rib caps on all exposed ribs. Use 3/8" wide balsa for the R8 rib cap and note that it should be flush to the outside of the rib.
20. This completes this side of the wing. Remove the wing from the building board, flip over and secure back in place using the TE jig. Again, measure the center lines of the root and tip ribs to assure a straight wing.
21. Repeats steps 12 through 16 above for the LE, TE, and inboard sheeting.
22. Cut and glue in place the remaining 1/16†x 1/4†balsa rib caps on R3 through R7 and the 1/16" x 3/8" rib cap on R8.
23. Remove the wing and sand the LE sheeting flush with the sub-LE. Glue in place the 1/4†x 1 1/8†balsa LE making sure it is centered top to bottom. Also glue on the 3/8" triangle trailing edge hinge stock making sure it is centered. Sand off the corners of the wing sheeting to blend into the triangle stock during the final wing sanding.
24. Cut off excess stock at the wing root and tip and sand smooth. Glue the 1/16" balsa wingtip in place and sand to shape after glue dries.
25. Sand the LE, TE, top, and bottom of wing smooth. Note that LE should have a constant radius from the top to bottom sheeting. Use the plans as a guide. A razor plane and large block sander will be useful here. Make sure you do not distort the airfoil. It's also a good idea to wick some thin CA into the balsa sheeting where it contacts R1. This assures a good solid bond and hardens this edge. Also harden the front and rear R1 plywood mounting tabs by wicking thin CA around all edges.
26. Drill one 1/8" hole approximately 3/4" deep through the R1 ply rib and into the balsa leading edge stock and one hole through R1 into the trailing edge stock. See plans for details and make sure you stay centered on each stock and not too close to the edges of R1. Glue 3/4" lengths of 1/8" hardwood dowel into these holes using epoxy. Sand the dowels flush with R1 once the glue dries.
27. Repeat the wing assembly instructions for the "left-hand" wing panel and again pay attention to the R1, R3, and R4 rib placements.
Thanks
Blackie
I would also like to mention this is my very first kit and as others mentioned in this thread I had one hell of a time trying to make out what the manual was trying to tell me.
Wing Build
1. A jig is provided for the wing trailing edge which allows you to build each wing panel flat on your building board. Take the lite-ply piece marked “Main Wing Jig†and glue on pieces of scrap balsa sticks left over from the previous construction to the bottom edges of the jig and pin it flush to the building board. The jig will run the length of the trailing edge and support the rib trailing edges at the correct height off of the building board. Note that the taller end of the jig is the "root" end and must rest under R1A only and not the R1 ply rib. This is important as the rear tab on R1 will extend higher than the trailing edge stock.
2. Draw center lines on the R1 and R8 ribs (use fuselage drawing to locate R1 center line). Using the plans as a guide, mark all rib locations with a soft pencil along the wing jig, top spar, and 3/32" sub leading edge piece.
3. Laminate the 1/8" R1A ribs over the R1 ply root ribs making sure they are aligned properly with the wing hole and edges. Be sure to make a left and right hand set.
4. Pin one of the 1/4†sq. balsa wing spars in place as shown on the plans.
5. Carefully cut out the rib angle template provided and glue to a piece of scrap wood. Sand the edges to match the template perfectly. Now glue each rib to the lower spar at exactly the proper angle using the guide and making sure each rib is fully seated. The ribs should tilt toward the tip just slightly. Note that the rear mounting tab on R1 and the notches on R3 and R4 will face upward at this time (right wing panel). When repeating this step for the left wing panel, the R1 tab and R3/R4 notches will face downward! Use thick CA to tack glue the rib trailing edges to the jig.
Important Builder’s Tip: Double-check the alignment of the ribs by measuring the height of the center lines drawn on the root and tip ribs. The LE and TE heights should be equal for each individual rib. You may also temporarily pin a straight piece of balsa stock (about two feet long) to the root and tip ribs on the center lines and check that they are parallel. Shim the ends of the wing jig to make any minor corrections.
6. Glue the top spar in place making sure it is fully seated into the notches of each rib and aligned on the pencil marks you previously made.
7. Glue the 3/32†balsa sub-leading edge piece to the front of the ribs making sure it is centered from top and bottom. Note that it will fit flush against R1 and in front of R1A. Use thin CA at each joint as you go from rib to rib.
8. Repeat the above procedure for the 1/4" x 1/2" trailing edge stock. Make sure the stock is centered top to bottom on each rib. Note that it will fit flush against R1 and to the rear of R1A.
9. Using pieces of 1/16†balsa cut from the 3†by 36†sheets provided, glue in place the shear webbing between each rib (flush against the inboard ribs) and in front of the spar. Use the rib angle template you made to accurately cut the proper angle on the inboard side of each shear web. This step will "lock in" the angle of the ribs so again, make sure you are accurate. Start at the root and work toward the tip. The strength of the wing depends on the shear webbing so don’t be stingy with the glue. The grain should run vertically!
10. Cut the wing tube socket into two 10" long pieces and slide one into the wing. Glue to the ribs using thin CA and glue to the shear webs using thick CA. Measure the exact length of the aluminum wing tube, subtract 7/8" and then divide by 2 (it should be close to 10 1/16 inches). This figure will be the amount of wing tube that extends into each outer wing panel. Add about 1/16" so that the wing tube does not bind and put a pencil mark on the top wing spar as measured from the R1 rib. A 2.75" piece of 1/4" sq. basswood is provided and must be trimmed to fit between the top and bottom spar for the wing tube end stop. Glue in place with CA.
11. From the remaining piece of 3/8" x 1.5" balsa used for the rudder and elevator gussets, cut pieces to fit between R1A and the LE stock, and R1A and the TE stock. Use the plans as a guide and note the grain direction. It's best to glue these in with epoxy.
12. Using a long sanding block, carefully sand the top of the ribs at the spar location to remove any irregularities. Also sand the 3/32†sub-leading edge and the trailing edge stock flush to the tops of the ribs. Be careful not to distort the airfoil shape of the ribs or break apart any glue joints. The use of a razor plane makes trimming these pieces much easier.
13. Four 1/16†by 1 1/2†by 36" balsa sheets have been provided for the trailing edge sheeting. Glue in place one of these to the top of the ribs as shown on the plans. Make sure the edge of the sheeting is flush with the rear edge of the TE stock. You will have to notch the sheeting to fit tight against the R1 tab. Minor differences at the trailing edge can be block sanded out later.
14. Three sheets of 1/16†x 3†x 36†balsa have been provided for the LE sheeting of each wing. Edge sand these pieces and glue them together making one sheet 9†x 36â€. Cut the sheet in two as shown in the diagram below. You should now have two sheets with one end 4" wide and the other end 5" wide. Take one sheet and place it over the wing with the front edge overlapping the sub LE (it’s ok to let it overhang here a little). You must notch the sheeting to clear the plywood wing mounting tab at the leading edge. You should be able to easily bend the thin balsa over the ribs (wet the balsa if necessary). Now mark both ends of the sheeting at the half way point of the main spar and cut off the excess sheeting from end to end. Your goal is to have the final sheeting glued in place and cover at least half the main spar. This allows the rib cap strips and center sheeting something to glue to.
15. Before gluing the LE sheeting on, it is critical to make sure R1 is perfectly straight from LE to TE. If necessary, pin blocks of wood to your building board on the inboard and outboard sides of R1 to hold it in alignment. When satisfied, glue the the front edge of the sheeting to the sub-LE stock using CA. Masking tape can be used quite effectively to hold the sheeting in place. Once the front edge is secure, hold up the sheeting (without breaking it!) and apply thick CA to the tops of each rib and along the main spar. Now begin at the root and press the sheeting down in place using pins or masking tape to anchor it along the way. Work your way out from the root and make sure you do not pull the ribs out of alignment!
16. Using 1/16†x 3" balsa, sheet the inboard section of the wing between R1 and R2 from the main spar to the TE sheeting. Begin by cutting four pieces of sheeting 5" long and gluing them together on a flat building board. Sand both sides smooth, lay over the wing, mark and trim accordingly. Save the angled piece you cut off for the other side of the wing or the servo bay.
NOTE: Complete the following aileron servo mount steps for the right wing panel the first time through. When building the left wing panel, skip the next two steps until flipping the wing panel over to complete the other side.
17. Build the servo bay area by cutting and gluing in place two 1/4â€sq. balsa rails into the precut notches in R3 and R4. Cut and glue in place two 1/8" x 3/8" x 4" balsa servo rail supports to ribs R3 and R4 below these rails (see plans for illustration). Glue the plywood servo mount on top of these rails as shown on the plans. Finally glue in small lengths of 1/16" x 1/4" balsa scraps to the tops of the 1/4" sq. balsa rails to make the structure flush to the tops of the ribs. Sand smooth once the glue cures.
18. Sheet the servo bay between R3 and R4 using 1/16†x 3" balsa using the same technique as the root bay sheeting. Save any cutoff pieces for future use. Finally, cut the sheeting away for your servo openings.
19. Using strips of 1/16†x 1/4†balsa provided, glue in place the rib caps on all exposed ribs. Use 3/8" wide balsa for the R8 rib cap and note that it should be flush to the outside of the rib.
20. This completes this side of the wing. Remove the wing from the building board, flip over and secure back in place using the TE jig. Again, measure the center lines of the root and tip ribs to assure a straight wing.
21. Repeats steps 12 through 16 above for the LE, TE, and inboard sheeting.
22. Cut and glue in place the remaining 1/16†x 1/4†balsa rib caps on R3 through R7 and the 1/16" x 3/8" rib cap on R8.
23. Remove the wing and sand the LE sheeting flush with the sub-LE. Glue in place the 1/4†x 1 1/8†balsa LE making sure it is centered top to bottom. Also glue on the 3/8" triangle trailing edge hinge stock making sure it is centered. Sand off the corners of the wing sheeting to blend into the triangle stock during the final wing sanding.
24. Cut off excess stock at the wing root and tip and sand smooth. Glue the 1/16" balsa wingtip in place and sand to shape after glue dries.
25. Sand the LE, TE, top, and bottom of wing smooth. Note that LE should have a constant radius from the top to bottom sheeting. Use the plans as a guide. A razor plane and large block sander will be useful here. Make sure you do not distort the airfoil. It's also a good idea to wick some thin CA into the balsa sheeting where it contacts R1. This assures a good solid bond and hardens this edge. Also harden the front and rear R1 plywood mounting tabs by wicking thin CA around all edges.
26. Drill one 1/8" hole approximately 3/4" deep through the R1 ply rib and into the balsa leading edge stock and one hole through R1 into the trailing edge stock. See plans for details and make sure you stay centered on each stock and not too close to the edges of R1. Glue 3/4" lengths of 1/8" hardwood dowel into these holes using epoxy. Sand the dowels flush with R1 once the glue dries.
27. Repeat the wing assembly instructions for the "left-hand" wing panel and again pay attention to the R1, R3, and R4 rib placements.
Thanks
Blackie
02-25-2004, 12:59 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Dang Blackie, that may be a record for the longest RCU post!
Step 18 says sheet the servo bay during this step (wing is upside down). Step 20 says you are done with this side of the wing, flip over and repeat steps 12-16. Step 18 is skipped second time around.
Mike
Step 18 says sheet the servo bay during this step (wing is upside down). Step 20 says you are done with this side of the wing, flip over and repeat steps 12-16. Step 18 is skipped second time around.
Mike
02-25-2004, 01:17 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Thanks Mike,
Copy and paste.
After re-viewing I noticed that part you pointed out and thought it was just a tad bit vague, my problem is that all beginner kits are mostly focused around easy flyer's in which I have moved beyond thanks to ARF's
If only I had some background knowledge before going into this kit I believe I would of had a better understanding.
I made a few discouraging mistakes on this one I only hope it's air worthy.
I plan on doing the same as smallfly and that is placing a Saito 100 up front.
Oh! one more thing just came to my mind that I would like to mention. I noticed after sheeting the fuse, the fuse has about a 1/16" bow down the length of the fuse. Is this going to hurt anything?
Thanks
Blackie
Copy and paste.
After re-viewing I noticed that part you pointed out and thought it was just a tad bit vague, my problem is that all beginner kits are mostly focused around easy flyer's in which I have moved beyond thanks to ARF's
If only I had some background knowledge before going into this kit I believe I would of had a better understanding.
I made a few discouraging mistakes on this one I only hope it's air worthy.
I plan on doing the same as smallfly and that is placing a Saito 100 up front.
Oh! one more thing just came to my mind that I would like to mention. I noticed after sheeting the fuse, the fuse has about a 1/16" bow down the length of the fuse. Is this going to hurt anything?
Thanks
Blackie
02-25-2004, 08:38 PM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
Nope, a little bow won't hurt at all on these profiles. They aren't designed to fly straight anyway. You'd be hardpressed to find a perfectly straight fuse anywhere anyhow. The rudder is so big it will be trimmed out with a fraction of a degree of opposite rudder.
Mike
Mike
02-26-2004, 07:40 AM
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RE: OMP Yak build
Hello fellow profile flyers,
Well this is my first post and I have great news for all you OMP lovers. I live in Dayton Ohio and I am the newest member of Team OMP. Having known John Drake and Mike Pilkenton for a few years they knew of my work and and asked me if I wanted to build an 80 inch YAK 54. Well at first I wasn't sure if I wanted to but one day Mike let me fly his 80 inch Edge and I fell in love with it in about 30 seconds. Well I built this Yak and we test flew it a couple of weeks ago. WOW! You guys are going to reaaly like this one. Mike says it even flys better than the EDGE. We will be debuting it at Toledo at the OMP booth. Check it out .We think it is one of the best looking profiles out there. Sorry about the length of this post,but I had to get the news out.
Well this is my first post and I have great news for all you OMP lovers. I live in Dayton Ohio and I am the newest member of Team OMP. Having known John Drake and Mike Pilkenton for a few years they knew of my work and and asked me if I wanted to build an 80 inch YAK 54. Well at first I wasn't sure if I wanted to but one day Mike let me fly his 80 inch Edge and I fell in love with it in about 30 seconds. Well I built this Yak and we test flew it a couple of weeks ago. WOW! You guys are going to reaaly like this one. Mike says it even flys better than the EDGE. We will be debuting it at Toledo at the OMP booth. Check it out .We think it is one of the best looking profiles out there. Sorry about the length of this post,but I had to get the news out.
02-26-2004, 08:25 PM
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RE: OMP Yak build
Just got my kit tonight (Thanks for the fast shipment, Mike!) Been going over the construction manual and it all seems pretty straightforward. This will be the first kit I've ever built that uses a wing tube, so I'm concerned about getting this part right. How are you guys ensuring the two sides mate correctly? Have there been any problems getting the wings to be flush with the fuse? I'm not questioning the design or instructions, just MY building skills!
Also, with the OS 91Fx, where are you mounting the battery to achieve the proper CG?
Can't wait to get started, but I gotta finish a Calculus class first. Yuck!
Also, with the OS 91Fx, where are you mounting the battery to achieve the proper CG?
Can't wait to get started, but I gotta finish a Calculus class first. Yuck!
02-27-2004, 08:21 AM
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RE: OMP Yak build
JoeBob,
Key thing is a good square and straight edge. There's no secret, just good tools and patience. Use the straight edge to make sure the root rib is not bowed front to back wehn building the wing and especially putting on the sheeting. It's easy to pull the rib out of alignment when sheeting the leading edge. I use scrap block pinned firmly to the building board to lock in place the root rib. That's a good trick to do.
When gluing in the tube socket into the fuselage slip the wing tube in place and use a square to make sure it is 90 degrees to the fuselage front to back and top to bottom.
With my OS 91FX, the battery is stock location in front of the wing tube under the wing. I don't use a fancy hatch but simply velcro in place and put a piece of clear tape over the opening. Once the wings are bolted on they aren't moving at all.
Hey keep up with that calculus class....good stuff...I love it.
Mike
Key thing is a good square and straight edge. There's no secret, just good tools and patience. Use the straight edge to make sure the root rib is not bowed front to back wehn building the wing and especially putting on the sheeting. It's easy to pull the rib out of alignment when sheeting the leading edge. I use scrap block pinned firmly to the building board to lock in place the root rib. That's a good trick to do.
When gluing in the tube socket into the fuselage slip the wing tube in place and use a square to make sure it is 90 degrees to the fuselage front to back and top to bottom.
With my OS 91FX, the battery is stock location in front of the wing tube under the wing. I don't use a fancy hatch but simply velcro in place and put a piece of clear tape over the opening. Once the wings are bolted on they aren't moving at all.
Hey keep up with that calculus class....good stuff...I love it.
Mike
02-27-2004, 06:41 PM
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RE: OMP Yak build
I finally got around to opening up the plans and all looks easy enough. But I was going through the materials list and it calls for a 1/4 x 3/8 x 5 basswood piece that I can't find in the box. I can't find where it is mentioned in the instructions either. Is this piece needed, and if so, where?
To heck with the Calc class - I'm gonna start on this thing this weekend!
To heck with the Calc class - I'm gonna start on this thing this weekend!
02-28-2004, 06:10 AM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
This concerns the bow in the fuslage. I built the FF540 and it has a bow of 3/16" to the left no less, this is with weights while drying, oh well! a few washers on engine and rudder authority should do it. But the reason for this post is , why can't you glue a 3" sheet to one side then the other side until your done. Just like welding, you know how it pulls toward the side your welding on. The yak 54 is next
02-28-2004, 10:13 AM
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RE: RE: RE: OMP Yak build
On the Yak, it might not be as bad, but you can't do that over stick frames like the Edge because you'd never get the edges of the sheets lined up correctly. They'd want to move up and down too much, and it would be almost impossible to sand it smooth. Joining the sheets aren't too bad anyway. I sheeted mine last night. Just took the weights off and somehow, it came out straight as an arrow! Sure wish I'd bought some odorless CA to glue the edges around the fuse instead of Gorilla glue, though. Now I have to wait another 4-6 hours before I can start building again.