capthis

My Feedback: (67)

*** Man! As if I didn't take enough slack over in the pro bro forum I have to get it over here to, from a guy I don't even like!

In all seriousness Jeff's gear is pretty tough. I have broken a set though, but its understandable if you would have seen what had happened. I have had lots of "bad" landings, and it was fine however! Good stuff, and its light, and purdy!

tailspnr

My Feedback: (1)

Shame on you Bryan......how could anyone not like Gary?!?!?!?

jldecarlo

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSD16&P=7]Tower Hot Knife[/link]


This is a "Hot Knife" - less than $5 at Tower. It holds an xacto knife blade and heats it like a soldering iron. I ground the blade flat so it wouldn't cut into wood, and it is now (IMO) the best tool for trimming covering. It is more precise than a regular soldering iron.


Leonard

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Well guys it just is too late for me to post the final results of this plane. It is done, and I should have the time tomorrow to finish this construction thread. I have lots of pictures and comments (all good) about the plane to the point of being ready to fly. JW

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

It's you I don't like (tailspinner)

tailspnr

My Feedback: (1)

Why you no like me.......I didnt crash into your airplane 25 times the last two times we flew indoors together. If anything I should be the one not liking you.....but your just so fun to pick on.

Hey Bryan....are you coming to Houston?

akahoverit

My Feedback: (2)

Mines done and its kick*****. I started another thread.

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

I last left off with hinging the control surfaces, that was step 7. Next they have you install the servos. Well, this is all laid out pretty clearly. The only thing I can add is on the elevator and rudder, I try to keep my servo arm parallel to my control horn. This helps the total deflection during your setup that comes later.
Picture 1 and 3 just show how my elevator servo looked when installed.
Picture 2 below shows a small clamp half on the counterbalance and half on the horizontal to keep the surface neutral while I hook things up. JW

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

The next portion deals with aileron servo installation. I have already seen some folks having problems with the geometry on this. It is an easy concept once you realize that you must get things parallel. I did this by marking a point 2 1/8" in from the root of the aileron (at the hinge line) to show this point as my center for the control horn. Now run your rod to the servo arm and it will go thru the servo slot at an odd angle, however I have gone thru the entire motions of the servo hooked to the aileron and found there is no binding. Now you have the arm parallel to the control horn and the servo can now apply the direct torque to the surface.
Picture 2 shows the basic aileron servo installation.
Picture 1 shows the angle at which my (Gary's) setup had to be in order to get the servo arm parallel to the hinge line. (Clear as mud, wait for the video)
JW

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

That is all the time I have right now, hope to finish this post tomorrow. The plane in this thread is done and will be at the Houston pro bro this weekend. JW, talk to yas tomorrow. [email protected]

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

I roke 3 CF gear on one plane at houston last year. It always broke where i drilled through it for the bottom screw. I think next time i'll try not drilling a bottom hole but rather use a "strap" on the bottom with screws on each side holding the strap on

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Steve, it should not break there, normally. Next time I see you I will show where mine are drilled.
In fact, I was at Keykeys field last Saturday and my engine sagged in a hover and it slammed (asphalt rwy)on the CF gear from about 5 feet up and they did not delam. This has happened to me more than once, not saying they are indestructible, they can and will break in some instances. If you feel something is wrong with the manufacturing of them, I will make good on them. I really love mine, my yellow/white sledge has beat the heck out of mine with great results. Sorry to hear you did not but we can heal all wounds.
Jeff

STEVE LENZ

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Jeff your plane is coming along fine. Mine should be here tomorrow I am going to the LHS tomorrow to get the Du-Bro arms. One question how long servo extensions to get to the elevator and rudder servos.The plans I downloaded call for 24''. I am using futaba servos with 12'' leads for my servos do you think I can get by with 18'' Extensions? Thanks for your reply. And the building review on the plane. Steve

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Steve, the 18" will probably work but will be close, however I am totally guessing. Before you buy the Super strength Dubro arms, have you ever tried the Sonictronics servo arms? I like them better than Dubro but they are hard to find. Sorry I could not get to post things today, time did not go as planned. I will post pics of the sonictronic vs dubro arms. JW

STEVE LENZ

My Feedback: (45)

Ok Sounds good Jeff I live In WA state. The good hobby store is 25 miles away I am lucky to get Du Bro with out mail ordering them. My LHS did not even answer the phone all day. I am trying to find out if they got my Saito 100 part in.

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Got a little time now and hope to get this thread buttoned up. We left off at the aileron servo installation. Step 10 deals with the throttle servo installation. This mounts super easy just behind the engine. I routed my servo wire thru the leading edge of the right wing and not the left wing as the instructions show. I did this because the RX is mounted in the right wing, and the servo wire would not have been long enough (without adding an extension) so that is why I did it that way. The instruction pictures and explanations are very good on this, so I do not have any additional information or tips in this area. Steps 11, 12 13 are all very basic, and need no additional information or tips.
Step 14, this where you get your servo wires for the rudder and elevator to the RX. EF provides a strip of covering for this, it all works fine. Now, with that said, if you ever have to replace one of the extensions or servos you will be repeating this step, be sure to keep some Deep blue ultracote handy. JW

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Step 15 finishes the covering on the bottom, step 16 deals with mounting your switch. I elected to use the left wing in this case instead of the right, like the instructions suggested. This is personal preference to some degree, however all engines spit some fuel out and with the switch being in the right wing instead of the left it could (and most likely will) receive some fuel into the switch. I cut some 3/4" sq. by 1/8" thick lite ply blocks and glued them to the inside of the top sheeting for my switch mounting screws to have something to bite into as they screw down into the wood. Be sure to mount the switch so it will not interfere with the ailerons or other radio equipment.
Step 17, I did just like the instructions say here with a little modification. I routed the RX antenna thru the inside of the wing using a Dubro #511 antenna housing. Cut a small hole in the tip rib where the housing can run inside the lightening holes, then cut a small hole in the rib next to the RX and run the housing into the wing and glue at the tip and RX rib.
Picture one shows the housing as it exits out the tip.
Picture 2 shows the housing and antenna wire as it goes thru the rib by the RX.
Picture 3 shows the aileron servo and RX, I did not use zip ties as you have to cut them anytime you have to remove the antenna. I used the type velcro that sticks to itself, no the typical hook and loop.
JW

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

Step 18, secure the hatches with the supplied screws. Not much here, drill some small holes and set the screws, just be sure you do not have any binding or otherwise once the hatches are secured.
Step 19, engine mounting. PLEASE READ THIS CAREFULLY if you have ever wondered how to align an engine a profile. This will be a lengthy reply here but I want everyone to understand what I am doing. Go to Home Depot or Wal Mart and for fifty cents pick out the straightes wooden 3ft ruler you can find. Now cut it every 12" so to have 3 equal distance pieces. Glue them together to form a triangle, making sure that no matter which side you have it on the top (pointed end) will be directly in the middle. In theory, you will have 3 60degree angles to form this perfect triangle (the proper geometry term evades me right now). Now dry fit the motor onto the mouting rails (I use rubber bands to hold it) and check the CG per instructions. Once you are happy with a location we want to align the engine, IE we are setting the thrust angle vertically. Drill a hole into the middle of one of the sides of the triangle (the six inch mark in theory) and install it onto the engine shaft, secure it with washers and the engine prop nut snugly. Now position the triangle straight up and down and compare it to the wing and horizontal. Try to position the engine so that all 3 things are parallel, this is because most (if not all) profiles are 0 incidence. (If you have incidence in your engine it will not track properly. I am not talking about right thrust, we will set that soon.) If it is possible to establish the planes longitudinal line from the position of the wing and tail use it for comparison to the engine triangle. This will be tough to establish unless your horizontal and wing are in line. Now move the engine up and down to find where it is parallel to the wing and horizontal. This is a tough one to explain, but if you can follow this and try it, I think you will find what I am talking about. ALso, this is not an exact way of doing it, but it is an inexpensive way and beats what might have been your best guess.
Picture 1 may clear things up.

Radcliffe

Mine came in the mail today. What a beauty !!!! Should be cutting the grass in a few days !! Rad

lomcevek1

Huh thats a good idea and simple to. I have been just using the best guess method and if i really needed to check I brought out the robart incindence meter but I never really trusted that because it can flex a lot from it's own weight.

Gary Seeloff

That's a very interesting method of aligning an engine Jeff.....but I still prefer mine:
-
1) Avoid all work untill the last possible minute.
2) Wait just a little bit longer.
3) Place engine on airplane.
4) Screw it down.
5) Take a break.
6) Bring plane, prop, fuel tank, and throttle pushrod to a flying event in another state.
7) Do some more avoiding and break-taking.
8) Throw everything together while the battery fast charges, and then test fly.
9) Go around complaining to everyone about how long it took you to finish the plane.
10) Go back and install whatever screws you left out to save time.
I think we can all agree that this is the best possible way to do it........

Gary

Gary Seeloff

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wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

Hilarious because I knows its true...

I watched Gary bring a 80% RTF Sledge to Nashville. I asked him if he was gonna get it done and fly it..
He wasnt sure...
The next day he was wringing that thing out like only Seeloff can..

akahoverit

My Feedback: (2)

That is so true Gary.

John Wells

My Feedback: (10)

That 3 ft. ruler thing is great Jeff! I'm gonna try that myself.

JW