Finishing Fazer
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Finishing Fazer
Does anyone have any suggestions on covering a Fazer? Did you cover the horizontal and vertical stab before gluing?
Did you add anything to make the vertical stab more rigid?
Is any additional reinforcement needed?
I am trying to keep this one light, as I will be running an OS 32SX on it.
Greg
Did you add anything to make the vertical stab more rigid?
Is any additional reinforcement needed?
I am trying to keep this one light, as I will be running an OS 32SX on it.
Greg
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Finishing Fazer
I think covering, cutting the covering and gluing are the standard instructions that you get from SIG. I've built a couple of other SIG kits and done what they say. I've also done the full construction route and then covered parts after they were all glued in place.
I honestly think that I like putting everything in place and covering after that. To me it just seemed that the covering looked a little nicer.
I stalled when it came to finishing the covering of my Fazer. I got the fuse done as you can see in the picture. I also chose the OS .32sx route for power.
Did you do anything special or different when it came to building yours?
good luck,
Kevin
I honestly think that I like putting everything in place and covering after that. To me it just seemed that the covering looked a little nicer.
I stalled when it came to finishing the covering of my Fazer. I got the fuse done as you can see in the picture. I also chose the OS .32sx route for power.
Did you do anything special or different when it came to building yours?
good luck,
Kevin
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Finishing Fazer
Did you have any trouble keeping the joint between the wing and fuse smooth after applying the fiberglass tape? I don't know if the detail of the below picture is any good but I struggled with this area.
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Finishing Fazer
Looks like you're doing a great job.... The only changes I made were to beef up the horizontal stab with 1/4 x 3/8 balsa and open up the angle for rudder throw. If I had to build one again, I think I'd add about 1" to the rudder and counterbalances to the elevator.
One the covering.... if your going with the white inset on the wing, make sure to cut away the red first.... Covering over the red with the white makes a mess with allot of bubles and wrinkles.
One the covering.... if your going with the white inset on the wing, make sure to cut away the red first.... Covering over the red with the white makes a mess with allot of bubles and wrinkles.
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Finishing Fazer
Looks like you have a good start.
I haven't put on the fiberglass tape yet. Saving the best for last! ( Ya Right)
I have kept sanding and the mess to a minimum by masking off the area just outside of where the fiberglass tape will be, getting everything stuck down the way you want, then wait until the epoxy is just about to set up. Then pull the masking tape and then I use a lacquer/epoxy thinner and scrub the whole area down. This removes any epoxy that got on the wood and takes any excess epoxy from of the fiberglass, and reduces sanding time.
Still not my favorite part of building.
I didn't make many modifications. I bought a set of carbon fiber landing gear for it. It is pretty close to the same weight as the aluminum, but won't bend. A Sullivan tail wheel assembly. I am going to use carbon fiber for the push rods. About the only reinforcing I am considering at the time is to make up a thin ( approx 1/16") plywood V shaped doubler to fit the trailing edge of the wing, and extend about 1/2" behind the wing. I would sand all the outside edges to blend in and be less noticeable. This helps prevent the fuselage from cracking behind the wing.
Greg
I haven't put on the fiberglass tape yet. Saving the best for last! ( Ya Right)
I have kept sanding and the mess to a minimum by masking off the area just outside of where the fiberglass tape will be, getting everything stuck down the way you want, then wait until the epoxy is just about to set up. Then pull the masking tape and then I use a lacquer/epoxy thinner and scrub the whole area down. This removes any epoxy that got on the wood and takes any excess epoxy from of the fiberglass, and reduces sanding time.
Still not my favorite part of building.
I didn't make many modifications. I bought a set of carbon fiber landing gear for it. It is pretty close to the same weight as the aluminum, but won't bend. A Sullivan tail wheel assembly. I am going to use carbon fiber for the push rods. About the only reinforcing I am considering at the time is to make up a thin ( approx 1/16") plywood V shaped doubler to fit the trailing edge of the wing, and extend about 1/2" behind the wing. I would sand all the outside edges to blend in and be less noticeable. This helps prevent the fuselage from cracking behind the wing.
Greg
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Beefing up a Fazer
The biggest thing you do need to do before you cover it is beef up the stabs! I put 1/4" tri stock in the corner between the horizontal stab and the fuse (top and bottom). Another trick I use is that once the verticle stab is glued on, I drill holes through it down into the fuse and epoxy tooth picks into the holes. On my newest one I even put a 3/8" x 1/4" (I think that's it) piece of hardwood in the middles of the the horizontal stabs and across the upper portion of the vertical. I ran flying wires to that and to the bottom. This probably isn't necessary, but I'm pretty hard on fazers.
As for weight in the tail, I wouldn't worry about it because you will probably end up adding some to help it spin, knife edge, and hover.
If your using a .32 sx be sure and run it with a tuned pipe and be easy on the throttle most of the time. I take very good care of my engines, but I have burned up two of the .32 ers. I almost like a .40 better on the fazer
When it comes to covering. Just follow the instructions in the book. AND TAKE IT SLOW!!! It's real easy to get impatient and mess it up.
As for weight in the tail, I wouldn't worry about it because you will probably end up adding some to help it spin, knife edge, and hover.
If your using a .32 sx be sure and run it with a tuned pipe and be easy on the throttle most of the time. I take very good care of my engines, but I have burned up two of the .32 ers. I almost like a .40 better on the fazer
When it comes to covering. Just follow the instructions in the book. AND TAKE IT SLOW!!! It's real easy to get impatient and mess it up.
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Finishing Fazer
Where did you get the CF gear from? I'd be interested in a set. I was considering laying up my own but at this point, just as soon purchase.
What muffler did you decide to use with the .32? I purchased a Mac's one piece but haven't started the engine yet. I also got several props, hearing differing opinions on that.
This is a great thread!
Kevin
What muffler did you decide to use with the .32? I purchased a Mac's one piece but haven't started the engine yet. I also got several props, hearing differing opinions on that.
This is a great thread!
Kevin
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Finishing Fazer
When I put a Mac's one piece on my ST 34, I lost some power.... The once piece is not intended to increase power..... If you need a little more snort, go with a mousse can muffler.... Or a tuned pipe.
On my TT 46, I used a Tower 46 muffler which is sorta like a ultra trust muffler, but a lot less expensive... that was good for about 600 rpm over the Mac's one piece!!! I'm making a mousse can muffler for it now.. I think it will be better yet!!
On my TT 46, I used a Tower 46 muffler which is sorta like a ultra trust muffler, but a lot less expensive... that was good for about 600 rpm over the Mac's one piece!!! I'm making a mousse can muffler for it now.. I think it will be better yet!!
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CF Landing Gear
I bought the carbon fiber landing gear from Moose Carbon Fiber. Here is their web site:
http://moosecarbonfiber.tripod.com/
They were $15.00 + $5.00 s/h. Real nice looking. They are 1" wide at the top. The aluminum ones are 1-1/2" wide at the top. The Carbon fiber gear will make your plane set up about 1" higher, and the wheelbase is about 1-1/2" narrower. This set of gear was designed for the Sig Ultimate fun fly. This works out nice for using the Sullivan tail wheel assembly. They seem to set up higher than most tail wheel assemblies. I sure like to use them when I can.
I misquoted in my earlier post when I said that the carbon fiber gear was about the same weight as the aluminum gear. I weighed them and the two legs of the carbon fiber gear weighed 1 ounce total. The aluminum legs were 1 ounce each, or 2 ounces total. Anyway saved an ounce there.
Greg
http://moosecarbonfiber.tripod.com/
They were $15.00 + $5.00 s/h. Real nice looking. They are 1" wide at the top. The aluminum ones are 1-1/2" wide at the top. The Carbon fiber gear will make your plane set up about 1" higher, and the wheelbase is about 1-1/2" narrower. This set of gear was designed for the Sig Ultimate fun fly. This works out nice for using the Sullivan tail wheel assembly. They seem to set up higher than most tail wheel assemblies. I sure like to use them when I can.
I misquoted in my earlier post when I said that the carbon fiber gear was about the same weight as the aluminum gear. I weighed them and the two legs of the carbon fiber gear weighed 1 ounce total. The aluminum legs were 1 ounce each, or 2 ounces total. Anyway saved an ounce there.
Greg
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Exhaust System
I am going to start with the stock muffler until it is broken in. Then I was thinking of making a Moose Can Muffler for it. The combination of a light plane, and a 32SX on a pipe, should result in a great performing plane.
Greg
Greg
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Finishing Fazer
I glued the fuselage and wing before covering, but covered the vertical and horizontal stabs before gluing them in.
I added triangle stock under the stab for added strength.
I left the nose full length and used a TT 46. I should have cut the nose as shown for the four stroke. I had to add a lot of tail weight to get it to the recommended.
I have some photos of it on my site. The ones with the spinner nut and exhaust deflector were taken before I flew it. I had to take them off to help get the CG back. I replaced the spinner nut with a lighter weight red plastic spinner, which can be seen on the last photo.
http://personal.mem.bellsouth.net/mem/t/b/tbzep/RC.html
This was my first plane. (yes, I trained on the Fazer) I had never built or flown one before, so I made the mistake of finishing it before I balanced it. Because of that, the weight was just bolted to the tail. It didn't look pretty that way, but it worked.
Tim
I added triangle stock under the stab for added strength.
I left the nose full length and used a TT 46. I should have cut the nose as shown for the four stroke. I had to add a lot of tail weight to get it to the recommended.
I have some photos of it on my site. The ones with the spinner nut and exhaust deflector were taken before I flew it. I had to take them off to help get the CG back. I replaced the spinner nut with a lighter weight red plastic spinner, which can be seen on the last photo.
http://personal.mem.bellsouth.net/mem/t/b/tbzep/RC.html
This was my first plane. (yes, I trained on the Fazer) I had never built or flown one before, so I made the mistake of finishing it before I balanced it. Because of that, the weight was just bolted to the tail. It didn't look pretty that way, but it worked.
Tim
#12
Finishing Fazer
I did the same covering sequence as TBZEP. After gluing the uncovered wing to the fuse I covered the wings first. I used a slightly enlarged copy of the fuse/wing opening to cut a hole in the fuse covering which was slid over the wing and then applied to the fuse.
I would recommend some type of reinforcement of the fuse just behind the trailing edge of the wing. Mine has cracked there twice and I have heard of others doing this.
The picture shows an OS 46 LA, but this was quickly swapped out for a 32SX which is much spunkier on a lot less fuel. 4 oz. would only last 4 minutes with the LA but goes for 9 minutes with the SX.
Rich Sichler
I would recommend some type of reinforcement of the fuse just behind the trailing edge of the wing. Mine has cracked there twice and I have heard of others doing this.
The picture shows an OS 46 LA, but this was quickly swapped out for a 32SX which is much spunkier on a lot less fuel. 4 oz. would only last 4 minutes with the LA but goes for 9 minutes with the SX.
Rich Sichler