Matney's Napier Revisited
03-01-2014, 12:42 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
My model is an early prototype and has a different wing than the stock kit.
The following pictures shows how to fit a wing to the saddle.
Begin by rough fitting the wing. There was enough difference that the original saddle was removed with a Dremel cut off disk.
The following pictures shows how to fit a wing to the saddle.
Begin by rough fitting the wing. There was enough difference that the original saddle was removed with a Dremel cut off disk.
Last edited by sahartman21; 03-01-2014 at 01:12 PM.
03-01-2014, 12:55 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
I reinforced the wing saddle with a couple widths of carbon fiber tow (located on the inside of the wing saddle).
Apply a layer of shrink wrap over the wing saddle area. Follow with a layer of 2 oz. and 6 oz. fiberglass cloth.
Mix about 1 oz. of finishing epoxy and apply to the wing saddle area and carbon fiber tow.
Add cotton flock and carbosel to the finishing epoxy until the mixture is thick.
Apply the mix on the fiberglass cloth at the future seam where the saddle joins the fuselage.
Bolt parts in place while insuring that the wing incidence is true (0-0).
Clean the fuselage as needed with alcohol and set the assembly out of the way to dry.
Apply a layer of shrink wrap over the wing saddle area. Follow with a layer of 2 oz. and 6 oz. fiberglass cloth.
Mix about 1 oz. of finishing epoxy and apply to the wing saddle area and carbon fiber tow.
Add cotton flock and carbosel to the finishing epoxy until the mixture is thick.
Apply the mix on the fiberglass cloth at the future seam where the saddle joins the fuselage.
Bolt parts in place while insuring that the wing incidence is true (0-0).
Clean the fuselage as needed with alcohol and set the assembly out of the way to dry.
03-01-2014, 01:00 PM
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03-30-2014, 05:45 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The wing was removed from the fuselage and excess fiberglass was trimmed as required.
Some 1" square by 1/4" plywood pieces were glued in using Shoe Goo for wing blocks. I clamped them in place using a few "C" clamps.
Some 1" square by 1/4" plywood pieces were glued in using Shoe Goo for wing blocks. I clamped them in place using a few "C" clamps.
04-06-2014, 05:30 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
Balsa sticks are added to keep the epoxy and micro-balloon mix in the proper location.
Apply some masking tape on the edges.
Mix about 0.6 ounces of finishing epoxy and add micro-balloons until the mix is thick.
Dab the mix in place and set parts out of the way to dry.
Apply some masking tape on the edges.
Mix about 0.6 ounces of finishing epoxy and add micro-balloons until the mix is thick.
Dab the mix in place and set parts out of the way to dry.
04-07-2014, 05:02 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
I used a scrapper blade to remove the excess micro-balloon mix from the wing surface.
The wing weighs in at a respectable 16 ounces at this point.
The wing weighs in at a respectable 16 ounces at this point.
04-18-2014, 05:18 PM
#38
Just have to tell you on my last warbird race airplane I used your aileron torque rod set up. The only difference was that I separated the ailerons from the wing and then top hinged them with CA hinges. The did the rout and dropped in the torque rods per your method. Worked like a charm, thanks for the tip.
Shawn
Shawn
04-18-2014, 05:49 PM
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Just have to tell you on my last warbird race airplane I used your aileron torque rod set up. The only difference was that I separated the ailerons from the wing and then top hinged them with CA hinges. The did the rout and dropped in the torque rods per your method. Worked like a charm, thanks for the tip.
Shawn
Shawn
I've picked up a lot of construction techniques from Kevin Matney and others. We are glad that you picked something up that you can use.
04-19-2014, 12:48 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
I used a slotting tool made of hobby blade, 1/8" thick plywood, and screws to slot the leading and trailing edges.
1/4" wide pieces of 1/64" thick plywood were slid into the groove. Follow with thin CA.
The tail surfaces were shaped with sanding blocks and course grade sandpaper.
Follow with medium and fine grade sandpaper.
1/4" wide pieces of 1/64" thick plywood were slid into the groove. Follow with thin CA.
The tail surfaces were shaped with sanding blocks and course grade sandpaper.
Follow with medium and fine grade sandpaper.
04-19-2014, 04:48 PM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The following pictures show the installation of skinned hinge and fabric.
Surfaces were placed between layers of peel ply and placed in the vacuum bag.
Surfaces were placed between layers of peel ply and placed in the vacuum bag.
04-29-2014, 09:00 AM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The tail surfaces were removed from the bag and peel ply.
I used a sanding block to trim the edges flush to the wood.
Lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
I used a sanding block to trim the edges flush to the wood.
Lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
04-29-2014, 09:05 AM
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Matney's Napier Revisited
I took the opportunity to vacuum bag another wing this morning.
The temperature was cool this morning and therefore the cores were placed between layers of electric blanket. That provides enough heat to allow the finishing epoxy to dry.
I've found it efficient to build 2 models at the same time. You identify construction techniques in the first one and just copy on the other.
The temperature was cool this morning and therefore the cores were placed between layers of electric blanket. That provides enough heat to allow the finishing epoxy to dry.
I've found it efficient to build 2 models at the same time. You identify construction techniques in the first one and just copy on the other.
