Build an Ashley MM
01-01-2016, 10:00 AM
#27
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The engine cutout was marked and cut out like was done earlier in this thread (for the fuselage with the 1 3/4" spinner).
Last edited by sahartman21; 01-01-2016 at 10:05 AM.
01-01-2016, 10:12 AM
#29
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Some carbon tow was added at the joint.
A mixture of finishing epoxy, cabosel, and cotton flox was prepared and dabbed around the joint.
The fuselage was set out of the way to dry.
A mixture of finishing epoxy, cabosel, and cotton flox was prepared and dabbed around the joint.
The fuselage was set out of the way to dry.
01-02-2016, 07:06 PM
#30
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The plywood was trimmed and shaped with a Dremel tool. A sanding block with 220 grit paper was used for the final shaping.
The last picture shows the two different nose lengths.
The last picture shows the two different nose lengths.
Last edited by sahartman21; 01-02-2016 at 07:08 PM.
01-03-2016, 06:23 PM
#32
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Jim Allen just sent approval for the shorter nosed version.
Both versions are now approved.
Both versions are now approved.
Last edited by sahartman21; 01-03-2016 at 06:28 PM.
01-04-2016, 07:08 PM
#33
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Fitting the firewall (for the 2" spinner) follows the same steps as shown earlier:
- Make a pattern that will fit the associated area of the fuselage (front side of the firewall).
- Cut out a firewall from 3/8" thick plywood.
- Grind and sand the front of the firewall to allow it to slide in place.
- Continue to sand the edges as required to fit in the fuselage.
01-09-2016, 03:00 PM
#38
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The firewall was coated with finishing epoxy.
Some Cotton Flock was added to the remaining epoxy to thicken it.
The mix was applied to the back of the firewall joints and spread as required.
The fuselage was set inside out of the way to dry.
Some Cotton Flock was added to the remaining epoxy to thicken it.
The mix was applied to the back of the firewall joints and spread as required.
The fuselage was set inside out of the way to dry.
01-17-2016, 03:10 PM
#39
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Here are a few pictures of the cutting out the 1/4" thick balsa horizontal tail surfaces. I cut out three as it is generally just as easy to cut out more than one at a time.
01-24-2016, 04:21 PM
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Some 1/4" wide by pieces of 1/64" plywood were cut into strips.
Slots were cut into the balsa sheets using my slot jig. It is made by placing an exacto blade between pieces of plywood. Parts are held together with a couple screws and nuts.
The plywood strips were placed into the slots.
Some thin CA is used to glue in the strips.
A sanding block was then used to true up the edges and remove any excess hardened CA.
Slots were cut into the balsa sheets using my slot jig. It is made by placing an exacto blade between pieces of plywood. Parts are held together with a couple screws and nuts.
The plywood strips were placed into the slots.
Some thin CA is used to glue in the strips.
A sanding block was then used to true up the edges and remove any excess hardened CA.
01-24-2016, 04:27 PM
#41
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Mark the leading and trailing edge to provide a guide where to shape.
A balsa plane was initially used and it was followed with a coarse grade sanding block (60 grit).
Continue to shape until the trailing edge is relatively sharp. The leading edge should be gently rounded.
I finished with150 and 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding block.
A balsa plane was initially used and it was followed with a coarse grade sanding block (60 grit).
Continue to shape until the trailing edge is relatively sharp. The leading edge should be gently rounded.
I finished with150 and 220 grit sandpaper on a sanding block.
01-24-2016, 04:37 PM
#43
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Some finishing epoxy was mixed and a piece of white fabric (nylon or polyester blend material used for dress linings) was attached to the surface.
01-24-2016, 04:50 PM
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The parts were placed between the layers of peel ply and placed on a piece of plastic tarp (4 mil thickness).
A vacuum tube was taped in place. Paper towels are placed over the top and serve as a bleeder cloth.
A bead of caulking was run around the edges of the plastic tarp and is used to temporarily seal the vacuum bag.
Once the edges of the bag are sealed the pump is turned on. My vacuum pump cycles and is set to pull about 6" Hg vacuum.
It was cold in my garage so an electric blanket was used to insure the finishing epoxy is warm enough to dry.
Wait at least 12 hours for the epoxy to completely dry before removing from the peel ply.
A vacuum tube was taped in place. Paper towels are placed over the top and serve as a bleeder cloth.
A bead of caulking was run around the edges of the plastic tarp and is used to temporarily seal the vacuum bag.
Once the edges of the bag are sealed the pump is turned on. My vacuum pump cycles and is set to pull about 6" Hg vacuum.
It was cold in my garage so an electric blanket was used to insure the finishing epoxy is warm enough to dry.
Wait at least 12 hours for the epoxy to completely dry before removing from the peel ply.
01-29-2016, 02:10 PM
#46
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The parts were removed from the peel ply.
I trim the edges with a sanding block.
Lightly sand the surface with sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper.
I trim the edges with a sanding block.
Lightly sand the surface with sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper.
01-29-2016, 06:35 PM
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Next was the installation of the servo tray.
I began by laying a servo beside the fuselage and marking the proposed location.
I try for 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" space between the wing and servo arms. This is to allow room for the aileron torque rods and pushrods.
I began by laying a servo beside the fuselage and marking the proposed location.
I try for 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" space between the wing and servo arms. This is to allow room for the aileron torque rods and pushrods.
01-29-2016, 06:37 PM
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01-29-2016, 06:41 PM
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Some rails were glued in place with CA and measurements were taken for the servo tray.
The tray was rough cut and verified to fit. The tray should fit without pressure on the fuselage sides.
The tray was rough cut and verified to fit. The tray should fit without pressure on the fuselage sides.