Q-40 Racing Discuss AMA 422 and any other variants of Quarter 40 racing

Build an Ashley MM

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Old 12-21-2015, 02:28 PM
  #1  
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A couple months ago I was wondering what to build this winter. Bruce Coffey came through with one of the early Ashley designs. He had the fuselage mold for the Carl Silva Ashley and was willing to send it to Kevin Matney of Matney's Models for a future short kit.

Here are a few pictures of the original Silva Ashley:
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:48 PM
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The Ashley MM is based upon the original fuselage but the final model is an update of the original design. These include:

  • Gary James providing updated wing airfoils for reduced drag
  • Kevin Matney increasing the horizontal stabilizer area by increasing the span from 14" to 15"
  • Going to a 2" spinner instead of a 1 3/4" spinner (on at least one prototype)

So what do you get when you purchase a Matney's Model kit?

  • Epoxy glass fuselage and belly pan
  • Wing cores
  • Sketch of the stabilizer
  • Landing gear blanks

http://www.matneymodels.com/index.html

You can order the "Ashley MM" now by selecting one Kevin's QM40 size models. Add in the comments to send the "Ashley MM" instead. You can call Kevin if you have any questions.

The pictures are of my two kits:
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:15 PM
  #3  
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The weight of the fuse are 8.0 oz for the 2 fuse I have done.
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:42 PM
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Hi Scott, or Kevin,

This looks interesting. I looked on the Q40 approved designs. I would guess this is an approved design. Does it show up under another name than those given in this thread, or is the NMPRA site not updated yet?

Cheers
Doug S.
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:33 PM
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The model is a Silva Ashley and was approved in 1998.
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:52 PM
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Great, thank you.
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Old 12-25-2015, 05:20 PM
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Scott, What does the belly pan look like on this version?
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Old 12-25-2015, 07:48 PM
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Here are some pictures of the belly pan.
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:53 PM
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2/18/16 Update: The nose cone from the original mold was found to have down thrust. The nose must be aligned to the wing first before beginning the process of installing the firewall and engine.

I began by reviewing previous installations to identify key dimensions. It is approximately 3 3/4" from the back of the spinner to the firewall.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:03 PM
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I used the cutout from my Napier as the basis for this model. The Ashley is canted more so take this into consideration.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:17 PM
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There was no pattern for the firewall so a template was sized based upon the outside dimension of the fuselage.

An end section from the shipping box was used. Begin by approximating the size and adjust the hole until the template fits the area associated with the front of the firewall.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:22 PM
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Trace the shape on a 3/8" thick section of aircraft plywood.

Cut out the firewall using your favorite method.

Fit the firewall by sanding or grinding away from the high spots.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:27 PM
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The motor mount is slid into the fuselage and the engine is attached.

Continue to fit areas around the needle valve, venturi, and spray bar.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:36 PM
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Test fit the engine and tape it in place.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:42 PM
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Temporarily install the firewall and insure it fits snug by tapping it in place.

Tack the motor mount to the firewall with medium CA.

Remove the engine and drill the holes for the motor mount screws.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:52 PM
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Remove the engine and firewall from the model.

I use a piece of tubing for the engine kill. The ID of the tubing is approximately 1/4".

A hole is drilled for the tubing.

The engine mount holes are enlarged to fit the blind nuts and they are installed.

The engine kill tube was installed.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:01 PM
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Some Vaseline was used to plug the ends of the engine kill tube. This is being done to help keep epoxy out of the tube during gluing.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:05 PM
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A Dremel was used to roughen up the surface of the fiberglass fuselage where the firewall attaches.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:09 PM
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About 1/2 ounce of finishing epoxy was mixed. A small amount was applied to the front of the firewall.


The engine, motor mount, and firewall were reinstalled.

The spacer and spinner were installed and taped in place. The muffler was installed and taped in place.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:17 PM
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Some cotton flock was added to the remaining finishing epoxy.

The mix was pored onto the back side of the firewall joints. A piece of balsa was used to spread out the mix around the joints.

Clean up any mess on the fuselage and set it out of the way to dry.
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:03 PM
  #21  
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Well you've been busy today looks good Scott
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Old 12-27-2015, 11:27 AM
  #22  
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The engine was removed and some front motor mount supports were added.

Begin by sanding the surface in front of the mount to allow for good glue contact.

Cover the engine mount holes with Vaseline. Spread Vaseline over two screws and attach them in front of the mount.

Cut up some pieces of fiberglass cloth.

Mix about 1/2 ounce of 6-minute epoxy. Add the cloth until thick.

Dab the mixture over the screws and contact the side wall. In about two minutes wet your fingers and form the epoxy in front of the mount.
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Old 12-27-2015, 11:34 AM
  #23  
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Some finishing epoxy was mixed and applied to the fuselage and firewall joint.

The fuselage was set out of the way to dry.
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Old 12-27-2015, 11:45 AM
  #24  
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The next few pictures shows the location of the wing spars. The primary function of these are to support the landing gear blocks.

A friend of mine uses his radial arm saw to cut the 1/8" slots for the spars.

Others cut the slots with a thin hand saw.

Note: This first picture should have shown 6 3/8" from Axle to TE.
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Last edited by sahartman21; 12-27-2015 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 01-01-2016, 09:49 AM
  #25  
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2/18/16 Update: The nose cone from the original mold was found to have down thrust. The nose must be aligned to the wing first before beginning the process of installing the firewall and engine.

The newer generation of Ashley designs have a shorter nose this one. I am going to build my Ashley with a shorter nose (about 0.7") than the original design to review the impacts. This version will not be as short (6") as the BC Ashley or Two Sweet, but the length (6.75") should be within about 3/4" of those designs. These changes will increase the spinner size to 2".

Begin by marking the cut line about 3/4" from the front of the nose.

Next was cutting off the nose with a Dremel tool.

The shape was trued using a sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.

A Dremel was later used to roughen the inside surface of the nose (to allow the epoxy to later stick).
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Last edited by sahartman21; 02-18-2016 at 08:19 AM.
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