Q-40 Racing Discuss AMA 422 and any other variants of Quarter 40 racing

Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

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Old 02-04-2018, 03:40 PM
  #101  
Bozarth
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Hey Scott,

Nice build thread. Great pictures. What are your thoughts behind the dowel aileron servo mounts as opposed to the typical cutout slot in the wing? I have never done the dowel mounting method so I donít know the pros/cons. Thanks!

Kurt
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:33 PM
  #102  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

the s
Originally Posted by Bozarth View Post
Hey Scott,

Nice build thread. Great pictures. What are your thoughts behind the dowel aileron servo mounts as opposed to the typical cutout slot in the wing? I have never done the dowel mounting method so I don’t know the pros/cons. Thanks!

Kurt
The method with dowel aileron servo installation works very well with this model. It has long aileron horns and installing the servo on the dowels connects very well with long horns.

I could have used a cutout. The servo would require raising a little as the wing is relatively thin in the location where the hole would be.

Either way should work fine.

Last edited by sahartman21; 02-04-2018 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:21 PM
  #103  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

The entire model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper used dry.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:23 PM
  #104  
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I followed by filling any larger holes with polyester filler (Bondo).

In about 30 minutes the filler is dry enough to sand. Lightly sand as required.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:27 PM
  #105  
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I used the time-proven method of filling the model surface with spackle.

Apply a thin layer and rub it into the surface to fill any pinholes.

Make sure the ailerons and other movable surface is not covered with spackle and set the model out of the way to dry.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:41 PM
  #106  
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The surface of the model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper used dry.

I followed by wiping and blowing off the surface with an air blower.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:45 PM
  #107  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

I mixed about 5 ounces (by weight) of epoxy primer. I waited 30 minutes and then added an equal volume of lacquer thinner.

Parts were lightly sprayed (outside) with the primer until the surface was sealed.

The airframe was set out of the way to dry.
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:52 PM
  #108  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

I dry sanded the surface of the primer with 220 and 400 grit sand paper.

There were a few areas that needed touch up. I will fill, prime, and sand those areas again.
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Old 02-10-2018, 11:37 AM
  #109  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

Cold temperatures or not I am running out of time if I want to race this model at Phoenix.

I mixed about 5 ounces of Acrylic Enamel. It was allowed to warm up before spraying.

Several light coats were applied until the surface was covered. This is where I have to tell myself that the model is to race and not show off.

I followed by moving the model inside the garage to dry.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:40 PM
  #110  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

The surface was lightly wet sanded prior to adding the stencils.

I've found that everything that you don't want painted should be covered.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:44 PM
  #111  
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Several very light coats of Krylon rattle can type gloss black paint were applied. Allow to dry between coats.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:49 PM
  #112  
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In just a few minutes the paint is dry enough to remove the tape and stencils.

Remove them and set the model out of the way to dry further.

Let the paint dry several more days before applying clear coat.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:17 AM
  #113  
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Great presentation!
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:12 PM
  #114  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

Originally Posted by yankee samurai View Post
Great presentation!
Thanks for reviewing and complementing.

This thread is primarily there to help the newcomer.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:48 PM
  #115  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

The wind settled down this evening and so I took the opportunity to spray on the clear coat.

I used a clear coat intended for spot repairs as that type dries fast and works well. I thinned the mix with about 1/3 part thinner per 1 part of clear coat.

A light mist was applied first.

After about 10 minutes another coat was applied.

This continued until there were no dull areas.

Here are some pictures:
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:51 PM
  #116  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

This evening the model was wet sanded (800 or 2000 grit sandpaper) to remove any grit present in the finish. I followed by polishing and waxing.

Pictures are shown below:
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:54 PM
  #117  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

A cutoff disk was used to gently cut through the inside layer of fiberglass cloth between the foam core and wood.

Take your time and don't cut too deep.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:57 PM
  #118  
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The model is now ready to reinstall the radio, engine, and tank.

With a little luck the first flights will be next week in Phoenix.
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Old 02-15-2018, 02:14 PM
  #119  
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Good luck out there, Scott! Have fun
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:18 PM
  #120  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

Here are some pictures showing the ailerons being cut free and the servo being reinstalled:

The servo works equally as well in this location as in a hole cut on top of the wing.
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:25 PM
  #121  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

The elevator was cut free and a small piece of tape (medical tape) was applied at the corners. This reduces the possibility of flutter and hinge damage.

We now must have the FAA number on your model. The last picture shows my number.
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Last edited by sahartman21; 03-13-2018 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:12 PM
  #122  
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Here are more pictures showing radio and engine installation:
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Last edited by sahartman21; 03-01-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:39 AM
  #123  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

Here are a few pictures of the completed model:
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:35 PM
  #124  
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Default Build a Miss Ashley - Revisited

These are the approximate throws required on each control surface based upon a model balanced at 3 3/4" to 3 7/8" back from the front of the wing saddle:
  • Elevator low rate = 7/64" up and less down Elevator high rate = 1/8" to 3/16" up and more down
  • Rudder low rate = 3/16" each way Rudder high rate = 5/16" each way
  • Aileron low rate = 1/8" each way Aileron high rate = 3/16" each way
It is OK to start with a little more elevator during the first couple trim flights.

Take off using the low rate settings. During take-off apply full right rudder, full up elevator, and a small amount of right aileron.

Last edited by sahartman21; 03-01-2018 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Added notes on take-off
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:59 PM
  #125  
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My Jett CG tank is located on a piece of firm foam so that the bottom of the tank is about 7/8" above the wing.

A relatively high tank is necessary to insure that the engine does not go lean when going through a high "G" turn.
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