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The center section of the wing was covered with plastic wrap in preparation for wing potting.

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The wing saddle was sanded with some coarse sand paper to give the glue something to stick to.

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Vaseline was applied to the outside of the metal hold down screws.

A mix of finishing epoxy and micro balloons was made. You need about 1/2 ounce of finishing epoxy per wing saddle.

The mix was dabbed on the wing saddle.

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The wing was attached with the wing screws and the alignment was double checked.

Verify that the saddles are filled with the mix. I used my finger to smooth the area around the filet.

Clean any filler off the fuselage and other areas with rubbing alcohol.

Set the models out of the way to dry.

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The wing was removed from the fuselage and the saddle was adjusted as needed.

A cutoff disk was used to trim the wing saddle and a sanding block was used to shape the outside.

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The following pictures shows the installation of the Heavy Duty Strip Aileron horn set into the wing.

I begin by drilling holes through the wing for the horns.

The slot from the horn to the ailerons is about 1/8" wide. The slot in front of the ailerons is approximately 3/32" wide.

The ailerons start 6" from the wing center line. The ailerons are approximately 14" by 1 1/4" and the far tip remains connected to the wing.

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A cutoff disk is used to cut through the fiberglass cloth that is between the foam and balsa sheeting.

This needs to be done in the area covered up by the torque rod.

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The plastic outer sleeve should be sanded to insure that the glue will stick.

The heavy duty rods must be laid out and bent to shape.

A slot is cut to allow connection of the aileron to the torque rods.

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I cut pieces of wood to cover areas where the glue should not go.

Some masking tape was placed over the exposed wood stop the glue from sticking to the surface.

A mix of finishing epoxy and micro-balloons was made to the consistency of thin toothpaste. It filled the slots where the torque tubes were routed.

I recommend overly filling the hole as it is common for the glue to settle.

Set the wings level and in a warm area to insure the epoxy will dry.

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A scraper blade was used to bring the surface flush with the wing.

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The gear were prepared for installation.

The plates are tapped for three 10-24 flat head nylon bolts.

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Petroleum jelly was spread over the gear reduce the likelihood of sticking.

A mix of finishing epoxy and micro-balloons was applied to fit the gear to the wing.

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A scrapper blade was used to scrape the epoxy mix flush with the wing.

I followed by using a model knife around the edge to insure a clean break.

Gently remove each gear and finish cleanup as required.

Identify each gear with a number to insure that they will fit properly.

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I used the time-proven method of using dowel rods to install the aileron servo.

This involves locating the servo and installing pieces of 3/8" diameter rod into the wing.

The pieces of dowel rod were glued in place with 30 minute epoxy.

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I've found that approximately 1 1/4" of clearance is needed to insure that the aileron servo and horns don't touch the pushrods.

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I copied my earlier servo installation by making a pattern of the servo tray and following the installation.

Shoe Goo is my preferred adhesive for installing the servo tray.

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I am going to try out a stabilizing receiver.

The process begins by installing a firm level tray in the fuselage for the installation of the receiver.

Shoe Goo works great in this service to attach the tray.

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I was told that a stabilizing receiver requires a firm connection to the fuselage.

My installation attaches the receiver to the secondary tray with the provided double sided tape.

Servo screws hold the secondary tray to the horizontal plate.

The screws are backed out if you need to remove the receiver.

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The receiver battery pack should be located back behind the servos to aid in balancing the model.

A Velcro type connector was used to attach the battery.

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The landing gears were installed and verified to be in the appropriate locations.

The CG is approximately 3 3/4" to 3 7/8" back from the leading edge of the wing.

The gear axel should be about 3/4" in front of the CG.

If the model bounces on landing try moving the axel back. If the model noses over try moving the gear forward.

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Antenna tubes were glued in place with Shoe Goo.

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The following pictures show how the slot was identified in my earlier construction thread.

• The incidence on the wing is adjusted until the meter reads level.
• I then drew a line on the top section of the tail based upon a bubble level.
• A cutoff wheel was used to cut the slot for the tail.

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For this next group of 4 Miss Ashley's a jig was made for the tail alignment.

• Some plastic wrap was placed over an earlier model's tail.
• Multiple layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin were applied.
• After the resin dried the jig was trimmed as desired.

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The jig was slipped over the tail surface and the cut was scratched in place with a model knife.

A red marker was rubbed over the scratch to further identify the cut marks.

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The slot was cut with a cutoff disk.

Initially cut the slot narrow and gradually adjust it to fit.

Verify that the stabilizer is level with the wing.