QM-40 wing to fuse seal
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QM-40 wing to fuse seal
Hi,
What are you guys using to seal the wing saddle? Was going to use 1/16 saddle tape but don't want to upset the incedence. I'm getting too much oil in the servo area. This is a miss candace all composite bird. Thanks,sean
What are you guys using to seal the wing saddle? Was going to use 1/16 saddle tape but don't want to upset the incedence. I'm getting too much oil in the servo area. This is a miss candace all composite bird. Thanks,sean
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
I have never needed to seal the wing saddle on a Q40?
With the muffler coming out the bottom, you may get some exhaust on the Belly pan, but I have never seen it get under the wing?
Put a little tape over the holes on the belly pan (for the wing bolts) and you should be fine.
With the muffler coming out the bottom, you may get some exhaust on the Belly pan, but I have never seen it get under the wing?
Put a little tape over the holes on the belly pan (for the wing bolts) and you should be fine.
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
If the wing does not fit the saddle try this.
Except for painting the wing should be completely finished. Lay Saran wrap on the top of the wing centre section. Smooth out the wrinkles and tape it in place (Cut little holes for the screws to come through). Now, I actually use 2" wide clear tape from a hardware store, I can wax this. Rough up the wing saddle on the fuselage. Mix up some epoxy and microballoons. Spread the mix on the saddle. place the wing on and screw it down tight. the filler should squeeze out all around. Scrape off excess. When the filler has cured the wing will pop right off and you will have a perfect fit. Sand off the excess around the inside and outside edges.
It is advisable to do this before fitting the tail and the firewall. The incidences of these items will be set relative to the wing. As your wing is already finished ensure that you have not changed the incidence. You can tell this by noting that the filler will have squeezed out completely where the wing previously made contact on the saddle.
Ed S
Except for painting the wing should be completely finished. Lay Saran wrap on the top of the wing centre section. Smooth out the wrinkles and tape it in place (Cut little holes for the screws to come through). Now, I actually use 2" wide clear tape from a hardware store, I can wax this. Rough up the wing saddle on the fuselage. Mix up some epoxy and microballoons. Spread the mix on the saddle. place the wing on and screw it down tight. the filler should squeeze out all around. Scrape off excess. When the filler has cured the wing will pop right off and you will have a perfect fit. Sand off the excess around the inside and outside edges.
It is advisable to do this before fitting the tail and the firewall. The incidences of these items will be set relative to the wing. As your wing is already finished ensure that you have not changed the incidence. You can tell this by noting that the filler will have squeezed out completely where the wing previously made contact on the saddle.
Ed S
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
The plane is finished and flown. The saddle fit is almost perfect as harold does very nice work. The problem is that I'm using a quicky jett 500 and it blows alot of oil out the front bearing wich travels down into the saddle wich isn't leak proof. I use to use 1/16 saddle tape and sand it down with 80 grit for a nice fit. I was just woundering if you guys have a better method of doing this. Thanks for the replies. sean
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
A variation on Ed's method that has been used for a long time is to use some kind of release film (tape, Saran Wrap, Great Planes Plans Protector/MonoKote backing, polyethelene, etc) on the wing. Wax or grease the release film. Put a small bead of silicone rubber on the saddle. Put the wing on with greased bolts and tighten it down, making sure the incidence has not been disturbed. Run a flat spatula, blunt end of a table knife (something that won't cut the release film), etc, down the side of the fuselage. Do NOT try to remove the excess, or you will inevitably get it on the fuselage and/or wing.
Let it cure overnight. Remove the wing and trim any silicone that is still attached outside the fuselage with a sharp Exacto. Trim the inside also.
Practice on a lesser expensive plane first.
Let it cure overnight. Remove the wing and trim any silicone that is still attached outside the fuselage with a sharp Exacto. Trim the inside also.
Practice on a lesser expensive plane first.
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
Thanks Don.
I was thinking along those lines but wanted to see if anyone had a new way to do it. By the way,I fit a sport jett 40 in that kangke you sold me. It turns 17,000 on an APC 8-3/4 by 8 prop WOW! It screams. They oughta make it QM-40 legal. It's the same size as my miss candace and would do the speeds of a legal qm with a qm engine.
On another note. Does anyone have problems starting they're engines when they are semi inverted. The fuel just runs out of my jett tank and floods the engine. What a pain.
I was thinking along those lines but wanted to see if anyone had a new way to do it. By the way,I fit a sport jett 40 in that kangke you sold me. It turns 17,000 on an APC 8-3/4 by 8 prop WOW! It screams. They oughta make it QM-40 legal. It's the same size as my miss candace and would do the speeds of a legal qm with a qm engine.
On another note. Does anyone have problems starting they're engines when they are semi inverted. The fuel just runs out of my jett tank and floods the engine. What a pain.
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
Sean,
There's nothing special about the "semi-inverted" installation; it's just slightly more susceptible to flooding when your bladder tank squeezes out the first little bit of fuel after being totally filled. (The bladder wants to relax a bit after being pushed into the corners of the tank shell by the pressure of the fueling syringe. This makes the fuel well up in the carb if the fuel line is connected to the engine and not closed off somehow.)
You have two choices to prevent this: (1) Immediately after filling the tank, draw out the first 1/2 oz. of fuel with your syringe. (2) If you're worried that Method 1 won't leave you enough fuel for 10 laps, get a small pair of forceps or bulldog tweezers and pinch the fuel line before disconnecting it from the syringe and connecting it to the engine. Then when you're on the starting line, leave the tweezers on until the starter says "You're on the clock!" As soon as you un-pinch the fuel line, that first little blurp of fuel from the bladder will prime the engine for you, and you won't have to choke it with your finger.
D.
There's nothing special about the "semi-inverted" installation; it's just slightly more susceptible to flooding when your bladder tank squeezes out the first little bit of fuel after being totally filled. (The bladder wants to relax a bit after being pushed into the corners of the tank shell by the pressure of the fueling syringe. This makes the fuel well up in the carb if the fuel line is connected to the engine and not closed off somehow.)
You have two choices to prevent this: (1) Immediately after filling the tank, draw out the first 1/2 oz. of fuel with your syringe. (2) If you're worried that Method 1 won't leave you enough fuel for 10 laps, get a small pair of forceps or bulldog tweezers and pinch the fuel line before disconnecting it from the syringe and connecting it to the engine. Then when you're on the starting line, leave the tweezers on until the starter says "You're on the clock!" As soon as you un-pinch the fuel line, that first little blurp of fuel from the bladder will prime the engine for you, and you won't have to choke it with your finger.
D.
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
I don't believe the f3d is an approved q40 design and is not legal for ama 422 (I'm starting to sound like Ed).
As to flooding, you need to back off the syringe a hair to keep the pressure down. There are quite a few types of small plastic clamps that you can use to shut off the line until you are ready to start the engine.
I use the 5 1/4 oz tettra tank, and back a little fuel out after filling. You get roughly 2 1/2 minutes of full speed Nelson flight on a tankfull. If you sit on the line for a full minute, you got 1 1/2 minutes to finish the race, which is plenty even if you have to fly 11 laps. If thats not enough time, you can hold on the line 15-20 seconds before starting. You can always go to the 6oz tank, if you don't feel comfortable cutting it close.
There are some using the 4oz tettras in 428 quickee, but you gotta hold a good 30 seconds on the line, fly well, and you still may be coasting if you have to fly 11 laps.
Dave
As to flooding, you need to back off the syringe a hair to keep the pressure down. There are quite a few types of small plastic clamps that you can use to shut off the line until you are ready to start the engine.
I use the 5 1/4 oz tettra tank, and back a little fuel out after filling. You get roughly 2 1/2 minutes of full speed Nelson flight on a tankfull. If you sit on the line for a full minute, you got 1 1/2 minutes to finish the race, which is plenty even if you have to fly 11 laps. If thats not enough time, you can hold on the line 15-20 seconds before starting. You can always go to the 6oz tank, if you don't feel comfortable cutting it close.
There are some using the 4oz tettras in 428 quickee, but you gotta hold a good 30 seconds on the line, fly well, and you still may be coasting if you have to fly 11 laps.
Dave
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RE: QM-40 wing to fuse seal
Thanks for the good info guys. I do suck back about a 1/2 oz. of fuel but the tank will just siphon it'self empty if I don't put the hemo's on the line. Too bad they don't race in Toledo anymore.I'd be very into it. There's just not enough interest here anymore. The young guy's don't have the dough and the old guy are into sailplanes and old timer events. I'm trying to get the ball rolling but I'm running into a conflict of interest with the big cheeses at the club. Oh well. I'm having a blast tearing around the field with my f3d and miss candace for now. sean
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Getting the Ball Rolling
Sean,
Just a word of advice. If you want to get the pylon ball rolling in your area, tearing around the sky with your Candace or F3D won't do it. It will scare all those old guys and beginners away. We had the same problem here in Calgary.
The secret is to promote entry level racing at the local level with the club(s) in your area. Start with an easy AMA424 Quickie event or something similar APRA, etc. The Viper and Predator Quickie kits are ideal for this kind of event. Bring a Quickie out to the field and [gently] tear around the sky (not a 428 Quickie). Let some interested guys fly it and get the feel. You'll be amazed at the interest that can be developed.
If electrics are popular in your area, try some fun low key electric racing. Anything will help but it must be low key entry level. Start there and work up. Also, this take years to cultivate but we must start somewhere - sometime.
Cheers,
Randy Smith
Just a word of advice. If you want to get the pylon ball rolling in your area, tearing around the sky with your Candace or F3D won't do it. It will scare all those old guys and beginners away. We had the same problem here in Calgary.
The secret is to promote entry level racing at the local level with the club(s) in your area. Start with an easy AMA424 Quickie event or something similar APRA, etc. The Viper and Predator Quickie kits are ideal for this kind of event. Bring a Quickie out to the field and [gently] tear around the sky (not a 428 Quickie). Let some interested guys fly it and get the feel. You'll be amazed at the interest that can be developed.
If electrics are popular in your area, try some fun low key electric racing. Anything will help but it must be low key entry level. Start there and work up. Also, this take years to cultivate but we must start somewhere - sometime.
Cheers,
Randy Smith
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RE: Getting the Ball Rolling
Thanks Randy,
Love my candace. I had to use a futaba 9202 for the ailerons. They're so stiff that they would stall out my 3002 wich is rated at 50 oz. of torque. So it's actualy taking 72 oz. of torque to work them,WOW!
Most of the guys at my field are either beginners or older guys. I'm going to do my best to stear the begginers in the racing direction before the grumps get ahold of them,lol. sean
Love my candace. I had to use a futaba 9202 for the ailerons. They're so stiff that they would stall out my 3002 wich is rated at 50 oz. of torque. So it's actualy taking 72 oz. of torque to work them,WOW!
Most of the guys at my field are either beginners or older guys. I'm going to do my best to stear the begginers in the racing direction before the grumps get ahold of them,lol. sean
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RE: Getting the Ball Rolling
Sean,
There haven't been as many races in Toledo recently, but there still have been a couple in Ohio.
Toledo still has the silver cup in August.
In May Terry Frazer has a race in Wheelersburg, it is AMA 428, and 422 (QM40), also CAPS standard Q-500.
Later in the year there will be a race in Cinci, CD Tom Scott, it will be the same as above.
There are still a couple of guys in the Michigan/Toledo area racing. To name a few, Mike Condon, Marcus Blanchard, Ken Hulik and others. Have you spoken to any of them? Do you belong to the Weak Signals club?
We would love to see you at the races.
Dan Kane
(Chicago area)
There haven't been as many races in Toledo recently, but there still have been a couple in Ohio.
Toledo still has the silver cup in August.
In May Terry Frazer has a race in Wheelersburg, it is AMA 428, and 422 (QM40), also CAPS standard Q-500.
Later in the year there will be a race in Cinci, CD Tom Scott, it will be the same as above.
There are still a couple of guys in the Michigan/Toledo area racing. To name a few, Mike Condon, Marcus Blanchard, Ken Hulik and others. Have you spoken to any of them? Do you belong to the Weak Signals club?
We would love to see you at the races.
Dan Kane
(Chicago area)
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RE: Getting the Ball Rolling
Sean,
Are you sure your Sport Jett 40 is getting on the pipe? I have one that turns 16,500 with a 10x6 and I have a TT 40 that turns 17,000 with a 9x6. Seems like you ought to get more out of your Jett. If I remember right when I had my Jett 40 in an Outlaw air boat it turned over 18,000 with a 9x6.
Maybe someone else has tacked their Sport Jett and can comment.
Stan Douglas
Are you sure your Sport Jett 40 is getting on the pipe? I have one that turns 16,500 with a 10x6 and I have a TT 40 that turns 17,000 with a 9x6. Seems like you ought to get more out of your Jett. If I remember right when I had my Jett 40 in an Outlaw air boat it turned over 18,000 with a 9x6.
Maybe someone else has tacked their Sport Jett and can comment.
Stan Douglas
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RE: Getting the Ball Rolling
Stand,
I can get a little more but I burn plugs. Dub says your running lean when you burn plugs so I've backed it off to 17,000. I'm running a pylon APC 8-3/4by 8 wich probably has more load than a standard 9/6. I run the super sport pipe too wich give a little more rpm. As far as the carb,it's the sport jett. When I run the ss carb I get about 500 more.
Dan,
I used to be in the weak signals about four years ago. I moved to a new location since then and am now at the recker field. The signals guys are more for the sailplanes than anything else. They're mostly an older crowd and I don't think they care much for racing anymore. I'll try to get ahold of these guys you mention and see if I can practice with them. I have never been in a real race before and need some pro tips. Thanks Dan!
I can get a little more but I burn plugs. Dub says your running lean when you burn plugs so I've backed it off to 17,000. I'm running a pylon APC 8-3/4by 8 wich probably has more load than a standard 9/6. I run the super sport pipe too wich give a little more rpm. As far as the carb,it's the sport jett. When I run the ss carb I get about 500 more.
Dan,
I used to be in the weak signals about four years ago. I moved to a new location since then and am now at the recker field. The signals guys are more for the sailplanes than anything else. They're mostly an older crowd and I don't think they care much for racing anymore. I'll try to get ahold of these guys you mention and see if I can practice with them. I have never been in a real race before and need some pro tips. Thanks Dan!