wkevinm

I ripped the landing block off of my Sweet V and need to replace the fiberglass gear block piece with a homebuilt replica. My question is this. How is the Sweet V made at the point where the Landing Gear block is attached. Is there solid balsa underneath the fiber-glassed skin, is it hollow, or another materials in this area? I need to pin my new block to the wing with either toothpick dowels or another solid means of attachment. Attaching to the skin will fail again since the skin material will give under a rough landing. I assume someone has destroyed a Sweet V and knows how it is made at this area of the center section.

thanks, wkevinm

ptxman

My Feedback: (2)

Kevin? I still have the wing (shrapnel) of my Regina model that got drilled half way back to its country of origin. I can cut it open & show you the guts. I think its basic bagged shell construction with CF cloth in the center & maybe a supporting rib?. The pic should reveal.

I recall adding 1/8 or 1/4 some ply doublers to the inside of the landing gear block to give it more contact area to the wing. I managed to bend my gear real bad on a gopher hole but the block held. Im not sure about pinning, if you lock it in any better it might take the whole bottom of the wing out.

ps - cause of crash: the steel ball fiting unwound itself off the threaded v-tail post. I did my usual almost-never-fail treatment, clean with acetone, lots of permanennt red loktite & cinch it down. Its never let me down in the past but Im thinking maybe this stuff is past its expiry. Ive heard guys use JB weld. On my #2 Im going to the nylon tabs & quicklinks so nothing can unscrew or unpop. Because the other thing that can happen is the nylon ball part can dislodge with similar $$ result.

Peter T

wkevinm

Thanks Peter that would be great to know whats under neath if anything. I made a real mess trying to stay racing that day I ended up using CA between races to reattach the gear, turns out I glued the wing to the fuse. I got that finally apart using copious quantity of de-bonder. I want to make sure I get it right this time.

BTW I use the nylon tabs and Sullivan gold links on the V tail, I do not trust ball links anywhere but helicopters and throttle linkage. Here's a picture. I also thread the rod into the link after the V-tail is installed. If you give the thread a bit of a point it is easier to start in the link.

ptxman

My Feedback: (2)

Here you go. Yes, looks like I put 1/8" hard ply doubler on the insides. I was wondering why I didn't add even more like 1/4", but I because then the tank wouldnt fit in the notch. Looks like there is a center (balsa) riblet & an outboard one & CF inner skin like I figured.

ptxman

My Feedback: (2)

You're smart, I learned my lesson the $$ way.

ptxman

My Feedback: (2)

Looking at your pic again... do you drop the pre-linked assembly in like shown in the pic & screw the pushrods into the quicklink threads? Reason I ask is, Ive had those metal-to-metal threads wear out & develp slop on me without some sort of retaining goop. I went with the hard plastic links with steel pin (forgot the brand name, black ones). But they of course need to be pre-installed on the pushrod end & then 'hooked up' to the nylon tabby's through the porthole. Kind of a pain, but doable.

/pt

wkevinm

Peter

Thanks for the pictures of the wing. Sorry you had the mishap that allowed you to dissect the remains. That was a nice paint job.

Yes I do it as you described, have not had issue with wear due to metal on metal, one could put silicone seal or other material on the thread before threading it in, this may provide the boundary layer to prevent too much wear and still be removable if needed.

Kevin

AllanU

They are Hayes clevises. Black with metal pins for a 2/56 rod. Just bough some yesterday from PM Hobby.

Al

wkevinm

Here's how I replaced the landing gearblock on the Sweet V. It held up nicely at the Edmonton race, I had one landing that sheared the nylon bolts so it is much stronger than the original.

wkevinm