sahartman21

The fabric (peel ply or dress liner) was cut to fit.

Finishing epoxy was spread on the wood and then the fabric was applied.

sahartman21

Some 3/4 ounce glass cloth was applied over the fabric. Additional finishing epoxy was spread over the surface.

sahartman21

The parts were placed between layers of peel ply and laid on the vacuum bag (4 mil thick piece of tarp).

The vacuum line was placed next to the parts. Paper towels were placed over the parts.

A seam of latex caulking was run around the parameter of the parts. A piece of tarp was placed on to seal the vacuum bag.

The vacuum pump was turned on. Mine is set to pull about 6" of Hg vacuum.

After verifying that there were not leaks, it was left to dry.

sahartman21

The tails were removed from the peel ply.

A sanding block is used to trim the excess cloth from each tail.

sahartman21

The edges of all the tail surfaces were trimmed with a sanding block.

Here is a picture of all 3.

308jockey

Interesting. I've had three Quick V's in paint and ready to install gear. I know they are an older design but they are built and ready. I think it's time to get them airborne. Then I'll just need to find a race....

Rick H.

sahartman21

The Quick V's are very good and are winning races. Good luck!

sahartman21

This morning I was checking to see what tank would fit the best in the model.

I tried a Jett CG tank and found that it would not easily fit.

I have several other tanks. These include:

• Jett 6 ounce slim bladder tank
• Tetra 5.25 ounce bladder tank
• Tetra 4 ounce bladder tank

The 4 ounce should work fine for 424 racing and the other two should work fine for 426 racing.

sahartman21

The wing was installed and the process to line-up the tail began.

The pictures shows that an incidence meter was installed on the wing. The fuselage was adjusted until the wing was level (zero incidence).

The tail was test fit and tested with a line level. A piece of plywood is between the "V" and the tail should be adjusted until the bubble is in the middle of the float.

There should be equal distant from the wing tips to the tail tips.

sahartman21

Shims of balsa were glued in place to fill the gap at the tail.

A sanding block was used to fit the parts.

sahartman21

I reinforced the landing gear area with carbon fiber cloth.

It was cut a little oversized and glued in place with medium CA. A piece of waxed paper and a finger were used to joint the carbon to the surface of the plywood.

sahartman21

Petroleum Jelly was applied inside holes in the firewall to keep the glue out.

Two layers of fiberglass cloth reinforce the firewall. Pieces of fiberglass cloth we cut out and tacked in place using 3M77 adhesive.

sahartman21

Finishing epoxy was spread over the fiberglass cloth. Do your best to attach the cloth to the wood using the finishing epoxy.

Set the fuselage out of the way to dry.

sahartman21

The fuselage was lightly sanded and a very light coat of finishing epoxy was applied.

The fuselage was set out of the way to dry.

sahartman21

The surface of the fuselage was wet sanded with 400 grit paper on a sanding block.

In a few minutes the fuselage was looking good.

A lot of folks follow with clear coat over the natural wood. You would thin out the clear a little and apply a light coat.

sahartman21

I went a different route.

A small portion (0.67 ounce) of red acrylic enamel automotive paint was mixed per the directions. It was thinned about 30% with appropriate thinner.

It was filtered and added to a small paint gun.

The paint was lightly sprayed on the finish to provide a transparent red look.

sahartman21

The spray gun used was one of 5 that came in a package. They were about $10 for the set.

I don't bother cleaning them up after painting. Just remove the bottle and throw it away.

308jockey

I've finished several Q500 airframes with .56 oz. glass cloth applied with Z Poxy. A second thin coat of Z Poxy is added and then the whole thing is wet sanded with 400 paper. Then lately I've primed them with rattle can Ace primer and wet sanded again, then colored with more rattle can paint. Finally I get a can of Spray Max clear gloss and spray the entire air frame. It is surprisingly light and completely fuel proof. I've used that same method on some race boats and a few pattern planes. It's easy, quick and cost effective. Looks good too.

Rick H.

sahartman21

That sounds like a great way to go also.

sahartman21

The fuselage was lightly sanded with 2000 grit wet and dry paper used wet.

It was later polished with my 6" buffer.

At this point the fuselage is lightweight, relatively good looking, and is functional.

sahartman21

Here is a picture of the framed up model.

Engine and radio installation remain.

sahartman21

Here are some pictures showing construction of the "V Tail":

1) Begin by marking a cut mark approximately 1 1/8" from the trailing edge of the tail.
2) Follow by cutting a 3/32" slot in front of the mark. Remove the balsa piece.
3) On the opposite side of the tail, cut marks are identified for the future V. I've found if you cut approximately 5/16" wide V at the bend location, the tail will fold to the approximate shape.
4) Test fold and adjust the fit to allow a good joint at the correct angle. Once the fit is correct apply some medium CA to glue the parts to shape.
5) The control horns were made with a 3/32" strip aileron horn set. The ball is approximately 7/8" away from the bottom of the V.

sahartman21

A small amount of finishing epoxy and micro-balloons were mixed to form a filler. It should be relatively thick so it doesn't run.

The mix is used to fill the hole and hold the control horns in place.

I've had better luck by doing one side at a time. Then wait about a half hour and repeat the process on the other side.

jaka

Hi!
Sorry to say but using this metode to set up the stabilizer has one drawback. If , and I always do so, you sand the stabilizer to have an airfoil shape before you glue it to the fuselage you cannot rely on that the plywood placed on the stabilizer (or what ever flat thing you use) sits parallel to the stabilizer or the wing.

sahartman21

You are correct that sanding to an airfoil shape will impact how the stabilizer fits onto the fuselage. My shaping was minimal, only on the leading and trailing edges.

I found that the stabilizer fit fairly well and was close to right on when comparing the wing incidence with the tail.

Good luck!