Need a Fuse for Viper
#2
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Found it. Google to the rescue. I just had to punch in the right search term. At first I was punching in "Viper 500" and I got a zillion hits for car alarms and very few for the plane. Search #2 "Viper 500 ARF" Bingo!!![sm=sunsmiley.gif]
Here's a link to the place where I bought it:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/index.htm
And here's the white fuse:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/greatplanes/GPMA2501.htm
And the red fuse:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/greatplanes/GPMA2506.htm
Here's a link to the place where I bought it:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/index.htm
And here's the white fuse:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/greatplanes/GPMA2501.htm
And the red fuse:
http://hobbyoutlets.com/greatplanes/GPMA2506.htm
#3
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
These jackass's don't have the fuselage.[:@]
I made the order on the net--gave them my CC # and then 2 days later I get an email saying that it's backordered.
If their site had TOLD me that it wasn't in stock--I would never have given them my CC #.
They are in the same boat as everyone else who is waiting on a shipment from Great Planes. They keep saying "Next month" and then next month arrives and then it's "Next month"
They have no idea when it's coming.
I never order stuff on backorder. I don't want to be left haning in the breeze for MONTHS on something.
UUUHG!! Ranting!! Sorry.[]
Does anybody know where I can get the stupid fuselage?
I made the order on the net--gave them my CC # and then 2 days later I get an email saying that it's backordered.
If their site had TOLD me that it wasn't in stock--I would never have given them my CC #.
They are in the same boat as everyone else who is waiting on a shipment from Great Planes. They keep saying "Next month" and then next month arrives and then it's "Next month"
They have no idea when it's coming.
I never order stuff on backorder. I don't want to be left haning in the breeze for MONTHS on something.
UUUHG!! Ranting!! Sorry.[]
Does anybody know where I can get the stupid fuselage?
#4
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Why don't you just make one? It's not that hard and the guys here will help if you have problems. You'd probably end up with something superior to the stock Viper as well.
#5
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
You're kidding right?[:-]
I have no idea how to scratch build a fuse and get the incidences right for a V-tail plane.[sm=bananahead.gif]
I can cut up some balsa and lite ply--but I have no idea how to get the wing saddle incidence or tail incidence right. I got lots of wood.
If you or someone can help me--I'll do it. I guess it'll be quicker than waiting on GP to get their boat in from China.
I have no idea how to scratch build a fuse and get the incidences right for a V-tail plane.[sm=bananahead.gif]
I can cut up some balsa and lite ply--but I have no idea how to get the wing saddle incidence or tail incidence right. I got lots of wood.
If you or someone can help me--I'll do it. I guess it'll be quicker than waiting on GP to get their boat in from China.
#6
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Alright. I can build a fuse. I've been downstairs and I've been staring at the wing and tail assembly. Building the fuse should be the easiest thing to build on a model airplane.
I got a wing and a tail already. I ordered LG, wheels, tank, axles from Darol Cady.
I'm gonna need some help with the fuse.
Can someone give me some measurements?
I need:
Fuse length from firewall to the tip of the tail
Distance from the firewall to the front of the wing saddle to the rear of the wing saddle
Distance from the firewall to the tail saddle.
CG
Height and width of the fuse under the wing saddle.
Any ideas on how to get the right incidence established?
It looks to me like the fuse is flat on the bottom untill you get in front of the LG block. Then it tapers up too the firewall to get the frontal area smaller.
Everything from the LG block too the tail is flat on the bottom of the fuse.
The top is another story. It tapers up from the fuse too the front of the wing saddle. Then from the back of the wing saddle, it tapers back down towards the tail.
Thanks
I got a wing and a tail already. I ordered LG, wheels, tank, axles from Darol Cady.
I'm gonna need some help with the fuse.
Can someone give me some measurements?
I need:
Fuse length from firewall to the tip of the tail
Distance from the firewall to the front of the wing saddle to the rear of the wing saddle
Distance from the firewall to the tail saddle.
CG
Height and width of the fuse under the wing saddle.
Any ideas on how to get the right incidence established?
It looks to me like the fuse is flat on the bottom untill you get in front of the LG block. Then it tapers up too the firewall to get the frontal area smaller.
Everything from the LG block too the tail is flat on the bottom of the fuse.
The top is another story. It tapers up from the fuse too the front of the wing saddle. Then from the back of the wing saddle, it tapers back down towards the tail.
Thanks
#7
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
You're kidding right? It's a box with only 5 sides. Since the wing is 1 3/16" thick by rule, the fuselage saddle is designed so the overall height is 3 1/2" with the wing installed. The wing, engine and V-tail are all zero-zero. I would use a nose length of 3.5 to 4" and a distance between the wing and tail of 12 to 14" (I use the shorter numbers on my Thumper).
From the landing gear forward to the firewall slope upward at least 1/4", but not more than 3/8" to the firewall that must measure 2 1/4" inclusive of the sheeting. The fuselage slopes up from the firewall to intersect the leading edge of the wing. Behind the wing (intersecting the trailing edge), it slopes down to the tail. The fuselage needs about 1 1/2" of height if you are building internal controls, but is a lot easier to build and assemble with external horns. Not a huge amount of drag with external, but double the work.
For the greatest speed, make the fuselage width 2 7/8" at the trailing edge of the fuselage. You can just bend the sides smoothly to the front and rear, or pinch the rear of the fuselage behind the wing to cut a bit more drag. I generally build my planes from 7-8 pound balsa that is only 1/8" (I fiberglass the entire fuselage with 3/4 oz glass with polyester resin), but would suggest that you use 3/16" at least on the sides.
I use 1/64 or 1/32 plywood doublers from the firewall aft to the servo, wing and landing gear mounts on the sides, and from the firewall to the wing on top, and the firewall to the behind the landing gear plate on the bottom. All bulkheads, servo trays, wing hold downs (which are "U" shaped), and the firewall are made from 1/8" 5 ply aircraft plywood. The wing hold downs, firewall are doubled 1/8", while the servo tray and landing gear plate is doubled where the screws go.
The balsa on the top in front of the wing, and to the landing gear (which is mounted flush) is the same direction as the fuselage sides. The balsa behind the wing and landing gear, top and bottom is crossed grain. All corners are filled in with 1/4" triangle stock from the nose to the tail. Sand all corners to the allowed 1/4" radius.
Toss in the radio, shake well, and go flying.
From the landing gear forward to the firewall slope upward at least 1/4", but not more than 3/8" to the firewall that must measure 2 1/4" inclusive of the sheeting. The fuselage slopes up from the firewall to intersect the leading edge of the wing. Behind the wing (intersecting the trailing edge), it slopes down to the tail. The fuselage needs about 1 1/2" of height if you are building internal controls, but is a lot easier to build and assemble with external horns. Not a huge amount of drag with external, but double the work.
For the greatest speed, make the fuselage width 2 7/8" at the trailing edge of the fuselage. You can just bend the sides smoothly to the front and rear, or pinch the rear of the fuselage behind the wing to cut a bit more drag. I generally build my planes from 7-8 pound balsa that is only 1/8" (I fiberglass the entire fuselage with 3/4 oz glass with polyester resin), but would suggest that you use 3/16" at least on the sides.
I use 1/64 or 1/32 plywood doublers from the firewall aft to the servo, wing and landing gear mounts on the sides, and from the firewall to the wing on top, and the firewall to the behind the landing gear plate on the bottom. All bulkheads, servo trays, wing hold downs (which are "U" shaped), and the firewall are made from 1/8" 5 ply aircraft plywood. The wing hold downs, firewall are doubled 1/8", while the servo tray and landing gear plate is doubled where the screws go.
The balsa on the top in front of the wing, and to the landing gear (which is mounted flush) is the same direction as the fuselage sides. The balsa behind the wing and landing gear, top and bottom is crossed grain. All corners are filled in with 1/4" triangle stock from the nose to the tail. Sand all corners to the allowed 1/4" radius.
Toss in the radio, shake well, and go flying.
#8
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Thanks for the dimensions.
I only flew this plane for about 2 seconds before it hit a fence on take-off. And that was 3yrs ago. The fuse is at the bottom of the landfill somewhere. I just kept the wing and tail.
I really had no idea what the dimensions should be on this. I'm not a big pylon racer--I've only seen 1 of these things--and it was mine. As I said--it lasted about 2 seconds.
I only flew this plane for about 2 seconds before it hit a fence on take-off. And that was 3yrs ago. The fuse is at the bottom of the landfill somewhere. I just kept the wing and tail.
I really had no idea what the dimensions should be on this. I'm not a big pylon racer--I've only seen 1 of these things--and it was mine. As I said--it lasted about 2 seconds.
#9
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Your in luck, just 120 miles north of you a great group of guys get together to race pylon about 5 times a year. Everyone starts somewhere, usually flying high and wide (which is a survivable location), but soon get the bug and start flying tighter and lower. Who knows, 5 years from now you could be holding a national record, but can assure you that you will have a great time win, lose or draw.
#11
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
RC,
Check out this thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3298657/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3298657/tm.htm[/link]
This thread has info about where you can get plans for a couple of Q500s. You can build directly from the plans or use them as a reference for ideas on your own design.
If you still want some help, I can draw up a fuse side view (CAD) using the Viper airfoil to whatever dimensions you'd like then all you have to do is print it, cut out the 3/16" balsa side and the incidence will be set.
Edited to make the link work correctly.
Check out this thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3298657/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3298657/tm.htm[/link]
This thread has info about where you can get plans for a couple of Q500s. You can build directly from the plans or use them as a reference for ideas on your own design.
If you still want some help, I can draw up a fuse side view (CAD) using the Viper airfoil to whatever dimensions you'd like then all you have to do is print it, cut out the 3/16" balsa side and the incidence will be set.
Edited to make the link work correctly.
#12
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
I have one that has been flown a few times, but never has been flown in competition, and is in excellent shape. let me know if you're interested in it, as I plan to put it up on ebay soon.
#13
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RE: Need a Fuse for Viper
Problem solved:
I bought a white Viper 500 ARF from Tower. They had one on Scratch & Dent for $84 without any hardware. I got hardware coming outta my ears. No problem.
I'll trace the outside of the fuse and copy that for my scratch built fuse. Then I'll have 2 pylon racers to crash.[sm=lol.gif]
I bought a white Viper 500 ARF from Tower. They had one on Scratch & Dent for $84 without any hardware. I got hardware coming outta my ears. No problem.
I'll trace the outside of the fuse and copy that for my scratch built fuse. Then I'll have 2 pylon racers to crash.[sm=lol.gif]