D. Normans NIGHTMARE
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
ORIGINAL: daven
I'm saving the clear liquid in the bottle of grapes from Peru for you Lee
I'm saving the clear liquid in the bottle of grapes from Peru for you Lee
Mmmm, yummy[:'(] I think that stuff is the reason I locked my keys in my truck at the annual meeting.. Harsh is an understatement...
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
Here is my latest project. A preditor wing with a scratch fuse patterned after the hurrikane fuse. no tabs though.Trying to decide whether to glass or just cover the fuse. since the wing is covered i will probably cover the fuse too. the Vtail is from an old crash plane.
This will be Q500 # 5 in the stable.
Dave , what are you useing to glass the fuses . PU or epoxy??
This will be Q500 # 5 in the stable.
Dave , what are you useing to glass the fuses . PU or epoxy??
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
Stable is filling up Dave, thats the problem with these things. You have a few decent races, and its like rabbits multiplying in the basement.
If I am taking my time, I prefer glassing with 3/4 oz glass and laminating resin (my choice is EZ Lam 60). The ONLY problem with this, is it takes about 24 hours to dry. In my snail process, I only do one side at a time, so its 4 days to do a quickie. When I am rushed, like this past weekend, I will use Z-Poxy finishing resin which takes about 3 hours to dry in the cold up here. Even if I keep the garage at 70, it takes 2 1/2 - 3 hours to get to a stage I feel comfortable sanding off.
Thats not my pile of wood Bill, that is to fire the Stil in the picture. The taxes and prices of alcohol in South America persuade many of the locals to brew their own.
A couple more layers of glass tonight, the first batch should be ready for paint this weekend. After these 4, I'm only planning on building 2 more this winter. If that doesn't make it through 2008, time to learn a new hobby
If I am taking my time, I prefer glassing with 3/4 oz glass and laminating resin (my choice is EZ Lam 60). The ONLY problem with this, is it takes about 24 hours to dry. In my snail process, I only do one side at a time, so its 4 days to do a quickie. When I am rushed, like this past weekend, I will use Z-Poxy finishing resin which takes about 3 hours to dry in the cold up here. Even if I keep the garage at 70, it takes 2 1/2 - 3 hours to get to a stage I feel comfortable sanding off.
Thats not my pile of wood Bill, that is to fire the Stil in the picture. The taxes and prices of alcohol in South America persuade many of the locals to brew their own.
A couple more layers of glass tonight, the first batch should be ready for paint this weekend. After these 4, I'm only planning on building 2 more this winter. If that doesn't make it through 2008, time to learn a new hobby
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
have any of you used Water Based poly urethane for laying fiberglass cloth??? Does it work well as far a saving weight and does it fill the weave as well as epoxy? how about the sanding part??
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
I used that technique for a while Dave and at first I thought it was great. Then I had a couple pieces of wood warp due to the water part of wbp. Then I was told you need to seal the surface first, then lightly sand, and then you were good to go. Did that, it goes on easy, but doesn't fill the weave as well as either laminating or finishing resin so you end up with at least two coats and that isn't always enough. Sands fine, but I have gone back to epoxy. I think it is harder and stronger than wbp.
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
ORIGINAL: PylonDave
so you can't use a faster hardener???
so you can't use a faster hardener???
I haven't used it because I use laminating epoxy and a "hot-box" to speed the cure (when desired), but [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX58&P=ML]Zap Adhesives Z-Poxy Finishing Resin[/link] is supposed to work well for the application you are talking about. With its pot life to cure time ratio, I doubt if you can mix batches, so you need to be able to do the work in the allotted 20-30 minutes.
I use the WEST SYSTEM products extensively. Not because they are the best, but because I can have four different hardeners for different purposes, and the pump system is economical. Plus West Marine stores stock the 105 resin and the 205 and 206 hardeners. So I can buy it locally in a pinch. 105/206 is what I use the most. But for complex fuselage lay-ups and vacuum bagged parts I use 105/209 for the 50 minute pot life and 2-4 hour thin film working time.
There are epoxy systems that let you mix hardeners. WEST is not one of them. System Three Resins does, and I believe MGS does as well.
If you want learn about epoxy, go to [link]http://www.systemthree.com[/link] and read the "Epoxy Book". You can learn an immense amount of information about epoxy that will serve you well for years.
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RE: D. Normans NIGHTMARE
Dave,
I used Zpoxy finishing resin for each of these planes. Dries in about 3 hours in our cold weather, gives me about 15-20 minutes of good working time.
I put a small cup on my gram scale, zero it out, and pour 3 grams of resin and 3 grams of hardner. This is enough to do one side of a quickie with plenty to spare. You could mix less, but I get leary of mixing such small quantities. If I try to mix more and attempt to do two surfaces with one batch, I'm too slow and can't quite get a second side done before it starts to get thick and hard to work with.
So, if you do a couple fuses on a weekend day, you can do the bottoms at 9am, one side of each fuse at noon, the other sides at 3,and finish up with the top aound 6 (don't forget the hatches) All in less than 2 hours worth of actual shop time.
I like the laminating resin better, its easier to work with, stays thin longer, but you can only do one side in a 24 hour period. If you are fiberglassing during the week, this is great. Bottoms on Monday, skip tuesday for dinner with your friends, sides on Wed, Sides on Thursday, and top on Friday (easiest side) and be ready to primer on Saturday and paint on Sunday. Depending on your temp, I can get away with doing a side every 12 hours, so I have been known to fiberglass in the morning before work.
Piece of cake.
I used Zpoxy finishing resin for each of these planes. Dries in about 3 hours in our cold weather, gives me about 15-20 minutes of good working time.
I put a small cup on my gram scale, zero it out, and pour 3 grams of resin and 3 grams of hardner. This is enough to do one side of a quickie with plenty to spare. You could mix less, but I get leary of mixing such small quantities. If I try to mix more and attempt to do two surfaces with one batch, I'm too slow and can't quite get a second side done before it starts to get thick and hard to work with.
So, if you do a couple fuses on a weekend day, you can do the bottoms at 9am, one side of each fuse at noon, the other sides at 3,and finish up with the top aound 6 (don't forget the hatches) All in less than 2 hours worth of actual shop time.
I like the laminating resin better, its easier to work with, stays thin longer, but you can only do one side in a 24 hour period. If you are fiberglassing during the week, this is great. Bottoms on Monday, skip tuesday for dinner with your friends, sides on Wed, Sides on Thursday, and top on Friday (easiest side) and be ready to primer on Saturday and paint on Sunday. Depending on your temp, I can get away with doing a side every 12 hours, so I have been known to fiberglass in the morning before work.
Piece of cake.