JEREMYB

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Has anyone seen one? I could use a few pointers..

JB

HighPlains

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I built three of them 27 years ago. Many thing is to cut off about an inch or more of the nose, since it was designed for engines without mufflers, otherwise it will be very nose heavy. What else do you want to know?

daven

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Many of us on this board have built a scat cat, or several. Pretty basic kit from what I remember, but it was 10 years ago when I built mine (first kit for me). Go ahead and ask your questions, you should get answers fairly quick.

fizzwater2

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Man, High Plains - you must be old.



I can say that 'cause I'm old, too - my daughter was married yesterday, that'll make you feel old...

HighPlains

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Mel got married? OMG! I remember when she used to fold up small enough to fit into a paper grocery sack.

fizzwater2

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Yep - 26 years old and all married now.. still just as cute as she was then, but maybe that's just a dad's biased opinion.

garys

And I thought looking in the mirror would make Bob feel old....

fizzwater2

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Jeremy - sorry to hijack the thread.. old farts will do that from time to time...

The Scat Cat is a pretty quick build, you shouldn't have too much trouble. The advice to cut 1" or so off the front end is good, otherwise you'll end up nose heavy.

A friend of mine has built a couple of them recently, you might look around the forums for S10promod (I think that's his forum name) and ask Eddie for any tips. Like the others, I haven't put together a Scat Cat for many years.

HighPlains

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Gary, what are you going to say in another 40 years?

Gary?

Gary?

Sound of crickets chirping...

garys

I'm going to say you're still older than me!

Jeremy...sorry about the hijack. Scat Cat's are pretty basic, other than shorten the nose, not a whole lot of suggestions. If you are looking to compete, you may be better served by one of the more modern designs.

djlyon

When your youngest daughter turns 40, as mine is about to, then you feel old. I,m modernizing my 424 fleet. In the next 424 race I'll be racing a Thunder Quickie. I still have a Scat Cat kit. Guess I should build it too. I've also built Scat Cats in the past but then I didn't know how to set them up for pylon racing. They build pretty simple and went fast with a piped Webra.

Denis

JEREMYB

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Well thanks for all your help guys.. I've never had a plyon racer before, and I haven't built a full fuse kit in a long long time.. I'm really into 3d profiles, and thats what I've been building for the last 10 years.. I'm thinking about not installing the rudder to keep the weight down ( no rudder servo) I also thinking about using a OS AX 46 with a mac pipe for power.. I still need to buy the motor so If you think I should consider something else in that price range, please let me know.. I am also thinking about install the evelator servo behind the wing with a hatach in the bottom of the fuse. I am going to use a carbon firber pushrod for the evelator. I'm not really sure the best way to run the push rod.. so any photos would be help full.. What do you guys think about the set up I'm thinking about.. I wont be entering any races yet,, I just want a super fast plane.. But I might get hocked on these racers..

JB

daven

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The OS with Stock motor on the Scat cat should get you to about 110 mph. I'd skip the heavy tuned muffler your considering, it won't gain you much. Also, without a rudder servo, it will torque hard left on take off, doable, but I prefer the rudder. Also helps in a cross wind landing. Putting the elevator servo behind the wing would be fine, but if you chop the nose it won't be necessary.

vicman

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Put the rudder servo in for all the reasons Dave mentioned, get a Thunder Tiger .40 Pro and you will be race legal if you decide to show up at one. You won't be disappointed with the engine at all.
Also if you are coming from 3D set it up with about 25% of the throws you think you need for high rates and cut that in half again for racing rates.

JEREMYB

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OK, Thanks for the info.. I'll put in the rudder servo.. I'm going to use centeral hobbies carborn fiber push rods.. Does any one have a photo of the best way to install the servos, and to route the push rods?

THANKS
JB

daven

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Central hobby pushrods work very well, I believe that is what is used in the Vortex (with Titanium fittings). A less expensive route are the CF pushrods sold at www.darrolcady.com

Both work well.

Darrol's rods are a slip fit for 2/56 rod. Just glue in your ends and go. Cheap and easy. Lots of instruction on the site listed. Because you are doing a standard tailed elevator, you will need an elevator joiner, with something in the middle silver soldered down for the linkage. I'll find a link to show what I mean and post it shortly.

HighPlains

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I know it's been a long while, but I thought the stab was mounted to the rear of the fuselage with the elevator hanging off the back. The pushrod going out a gap in the center of the fuselage to the horn.

Just go to your local hardware or lumberyard and get a 5/16" wood dowel, much cheaper.

JEREMYB

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here is a copy of the plans

s-10promod

Put both servos behind the wing and get the battery back as far as you can. Use a Thunder Tiger Pro .40 so when you decide to race your already legal and set up to race.
My last one I didn't shorten the nose, used weight in tail to balance and ended up @ one ounce over minimum. Glue the front hatch on, much stronger that way. Good luck! Welcome to the world of pylon racing!!

JEREMYB

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If I put both servos behind the wing, do I still need to shorten the nose?

JB

Left_Turn

There are 2 things to remember. 1st off, when you cut the nose off ( 3/4" is plenty) you will have to trim the fuselage sides so that they are 2" in hight as the original nose was. I would trim from the top half of the sides . With the elevator hanging off the back (as HP stated), you can run the elevator pushrod to the horn out the back of the fuse.
#2 ) Since you will be installing the servos behind the wing, you will have plenty of room in the saddle area for moving the tank and battery back to get the CG correct. Set the control throws as stated in the directions and you will be happy.
I know alot of the guys are using the Vipers and claim that it is faster than a scat cat....I will share a TOP secret with you...Smooth and consistant is faster than jerky and erratic!It's Rarely is the fastest airplane that wins a race, it's the person flying consistantly for 10 laps every time that is usually holding the trophy!! Give an "OK" pilot the best and fastest airplane and he will still get beat by the "better" pilot that flys a smooth and consistant course!!! IMHO

freeair

by the looks of the Scat Cat plans it looks quite simular to the Sonic 500 which is available as an arf and cheap, complete with a foam veneer wing plus all fittings inculding the engine mount and fuel tank. also what weight is in a small servo such as a hitec 225 ? you do need a rudder if you intend on doing knife edge type banks as what happens if you have the model in a knife edge and its falling towards the ground at speed ? rather than correct and loose speed by adding opposite aileron you just add some rudder , true.

JEREMYB

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OK,, Thanks for the advice everyone.. S-10 promod are you saying that if I put both serbos behind the wing that I won't have to shorten the nose? I think that I'm going to use a OS AX 46 on it for now,because I have one. Then If I get into racing I'll get the TT 40. I think I'll be getting one..

Thanks again..

JB

s-10promod

I didn't shorten the nose on any of mine. I don't know if the os is heavier or lighter than a TTPro.40. Move the radio back install a Tettra or Jett tank on the C/G and start checking before the plane is finished. As for a Sonic being the same as a Scat Cat, Only in looks! It's larger and heavier. They race them in our two pole races here and are allowed a .46 so they can keep up with the 424 legals. [X(]

freeair

i would say you will be more than happy with using the o.s.46 , i use the o.s.46 ax in my Viper and when i race against guys with t.t.pro 46 engines there is no noticeable difference in speeds between the two.