Q-500 Racing Discuss AMA 428, AMA 424, and any other variants of Quickie 500 racing

Wing Skins

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Old 02-19-2009, 12:09 PM
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daven
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Default Wing Skins

There has been a lot of recent discussion with skinning foam wings and vacumn pumps. I am not sure of your sources or procedure for building the skins, but wanted to share a great source.

Buy your skins from National Balsa, Code #1161048, 1/16" X 10" X 48" Blasa sheeting. Last cost was $5.45 sheet. This product is not on his web site, you have to ask for it in 2 oz weight. He must us alphatic glue when he assembles these as they sand great, without ridges.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:52 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Thanks Dave, I was just going to email you and ask you if you knew where Randy got his skins.. I take it this is the same place?
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:42 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Dave, I purchased several a few months back when you sent me the info. Skins look great!!! I can't remember the price but it was around $6.00 each. Much easier than making them up!!

Bob Harris
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:32 PM
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daven
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Yeah Lee, that is the source that Randy uses, and I believe both Terrence and Chuck B. are buying them now also.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:20 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Thanks for the tip daven, I'll order some. For our 1/2 A wings with a 44" span 5.75" root and 3 inch tip I could get 1 whole wing top & bottom out of 1 sheet of 10" X 48" with no seam on the top and a mid wing seam on the bottom. If I use three 4" x 48" it runs about 8 bucks to do a wing, not to mention the seaming required!
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Old 02-19-2009, 05:28 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

It really is a good deal and they work great.
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:14 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

I use 10.375" skins. I called today and they are going to make 10.5" skins for me for 15% more.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:53 AM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Why do you need skins over 10", I don't get it.
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Old 02-20-2009, 02:01 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

My technique for the leading edge and the trailing edge is to have extra so that I can trim after the bagging. It may seem like wasted material and cost, but it works for my procedures. It's a time versus cost thing. Plus while I'm doing carbon fiber leading edges with the same result as BV, I am using a different lay-up technique. I need the extra overhang on the LE.

On the wings with the 1/4" balsa LE, I only need 10.125" and could do it with 10" skins, but I'm staying with one size even if it costs me a couple of dollars more per wing.
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Old 02-20-2009, 11:04 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

When you get done isn't the wing 10" X 50"?
And with a 1/4" LE . . .I guess I don't get it either.
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Old 02-21-2009, 04:37 AM
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DonStegall
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Default RE: Wing Skins

The wing is actually 9.875" x 47.75" when I'm done with it, or when the end-user is done with it. That includes the leading edge. That's without the tips.

As I said, the extra is there for the process of the production of the lay up.

While I have documented a lot of what I have done with pictures and videos, I'm not going to be doing that for the sheeted wings. I put a lot of effort into figuring out how to make the process efficient for production. The Wings for 424 thread contains a lot of information, but my exact techniques will remain proprietary, at least for the time being.

So I will be paying a couple bucks more a wing for skins.
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:04 AM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

I just love secrets, don't you all!
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:56 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Good on you Don. If you are in business and trying to offset operating cost why would you share your technology with others. Sounds like great business sense to me. But I am not a Marxist Socialist.
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Old 02-21-2009, 05:46 PM
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DonStegall
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Default RE: Wing Skins

I will continue to document in pictures, words, and videos, even though I am pursuing making money off of model airplanes.

I don't share my methods until they are proven, though. I'm being questioned on why I need skins wider than 10" and I have my reasons. Maybe they are in error. When I figure out that I can use 10" skins, maaybe I'll switch and retract my statement that I need 10.375" skins. Or maybe I will document my method.

I will give away one secret. I'm routing wing cores for spars. I'm using a tool that my father invented for setting the depth of a router bit to the thousandth of an inch. See [link=http://www.stegallhobbies.com/WoodWorking/RouterDepthGauge/RouterDepthGauge.aspx]Router Depth Gauge[/link]
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Old 02-21-2009, 06:31 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

I was just curios, that is all, most of my wings are 9 3/4".
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:47 PM
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Default RE: Wing Skins

Dave, I didn't mean any offense to anyone. I will certainly buy some of the 10" skins for composite wings. I appreciate you pointing out that National Balsa has the 10" skins. I had seen that they have 12" skins, but they are almost $10 each.

While I'm cutting my cores for a theoretical 9.875" chord, if you measure the thickness at 9.75" back, it is only 0.010" thick at that point. Since I'm putting 1/64" plywood ( and that is 0.016" ) in the trailing edge more than likely the wings will get trimmed to 9.75".

The extra overhang on the leading edge just has to do with getting the leading edge 50K tow properly wetted out and for handling it. I had some 6" sample pieces where the tow was not fully wetted out and I worked out a method to make sure that didn't happen in the full wing production process.

Anyone who does wood working really should check out my Dad's router depth gauge mentioned above. If you use a router or a routing table, it is simply indispensible once you start using it. Setting up routing bits for edging furniture pieces is so easy. You make a test cut. measure it with calipers, and use the gauge to set it right for the next cut. And for free hand routing, same thing. When I'm cutting these 1/4" deep 1/8" slots for spars, I can easily adjust the edge router .010" to .020" as needed. That is next to impossible with a ruler or the thumb-screw. I'm going to make a video on how to use it. Because I can't find a 1/4" bit deep enough for a single pass on the full depth spars, I have to change the bit depth and make a second pass. With the depth gauge, it is a 30-60 second effort.
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