flaz

I’m interested in putting a clear coat on the Venom fuselage I’m building up and was wondering how most people do this.

What paint do you use (Aerogloss, Klass Kote, others)?
How do you apply it (brush or spray)?
Any other techniques and tips you may have?

Thanks!

Ed Smith

I use two part Automotive clear. Guaranteed fuel proof. The quality of the final finish is determined by the surface finish. For just clear I use a cheapy Badger airbrush. For fine detail and trim I use a better quality and adjustable airbrush.

See Picture.

Ed S

GSJames

Consider a water-based polyurethane from Nelson Hobbies. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

Because it's a single stage and water-based, it doesn't give off cyanide gas like two-stage automotive polyurethanes, MUCH safer. The catalyzed automotive polyurethanes are dangerous if you don't use a full pressure mask when spraying.

He also has lots of colors to match most all common film and MilSpec colors.

Ed Smith

Nelson Hobbies may have a unique product, that I do not know. After extensive testing I have not found any water based Polyurethane product that is glow fuel proof.

Ed S

GSJames

It in indeed a unique product with unique chemistry. Jerry Nelson says that it is fuel proof up to 10%+ "out of the bottle" and with the addition of the cross-linker additive it is fuel proof to %50 nitro. I'm going to paint my Buckshot wing with the gloss black. Of course there is always clear Klass Kote epoxy resin.

scausey

My Feedback: (2)

After glassing the fuse with 3/4 or 1/2 oz. cloth with finishing resin by Z-poxy ... I use PPG DC3000 clear... very glossy and durable

Scott

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I've done it many times with klasskote clear over stained balsa that has been glassed with 3/4 oz and Zpoxy finishing resin.

I tried Nelson water based paints. I was able to get them fuel proof with the crosslinker, just never able to get a good smooth finish.

Kevin Matney

My Feedback: (1)

Start with some Skin It Epoxy and 3/4 oz glass

Alabama Racer

Nowhere near the quality of Klass Kote or Auto clears, Minwax sells a spray bomb of
Clear Polyurethane that works ok. It seems to be fuel proof up to 15% or so. One can
put on several coats, get it built up and then sand & buff to get a smooth glossy finish. I
have been using this for 3 or 4 years with no problems. Have not had any paint bubble.....
from getting fuel on it. It does have a little bit of an "ambering" quality - turns slightly
yellow over time, but these are disposable planes, do not get too attached to them.
I use 3/4 oz cloth, put it on with brush on Minwax polyurethane, or epoxy if you want
to expend more calories thru the sanding process. Use 3 or 4 coats of resin or polyurethane,
depending on how slick you want the final result.
brad

slim56

My Feedback: (4)

After putting on glass cloth with epoxy what is done to get it ready for paint or finish????

Ken

freeair

you can then spray on the color or colors over the glass mat and finish with clear gelcoat sprayed on.

daven

My Feedback: (1)

After I glass, I do a light sand with 240 grit over the complete surface. Than use a blow tool off an air compressor to remove all dust. Wipe it with prep wash and let dry. Quick tack cloth, and spray.

Spray one light coat, let dry for about 10 minutes, and come back with your flow coat. I've never needed more than that.

slim56

My Feedback: (4)

What type of paint are you using, something from a spray gun or rattle can?

Ken

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I use klasskote clear two part reduced through a gun. Nothing fancy, a $25 one from Menards. Gravity Fed, 4oz detail gun, works fine.

PylonDave

Anybody tried the Duplicolor quart paint from autozone?? I think it is a laquer paint. Cheaper than the expensive stuff at $22 a quart. Wonder how fuel proof it is...

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I've used the rattle can laquer duplicolor and it actually works pretty good. Not tried the clear or the stuff in quart cans though.

SSAN

Dave,

Have you done it in the paint-in-the-mold process or was it just the standard external painting procedure?

The Nelson water-based paint seem interesting to me and I may try it out and see what kind of quality it give or come out of it. I currently used PPG DCC automotive paint now and get great result from my molds, but it's very expensive and not too good for the health wise. Just something else to consider.

Sam

Randy Etken

My Feedback: (10)

Sam
I used both, stay with PPG.

daven

My Feedback: (1)

never used it in the molds, could never get it smooth enough for my likings.

SSAN

Thanks for the info, guys!

Randy - Based on Dave's notes on not being smooth enough, has yours been any difference to Dave's finding? I like the ideas of being much safer health wise, but knowing that water and wax don't mix, I was leary about the useability of this paint-in-mold process. I've already learned the hard way with Klasskote paint don't work on the aluminum molds and don't want the same problems if I try this water-based out.

Randy Etken

My Feedback: (10)

I wanted to used Nelson because of the water base and safety. It released ok but the quality and shine is not even close to PPG, also did not cover in the mold very well and went on heavy, a no no for us racers.
Also tried Klass Kote and stuck 5 different wings, tried different mold releases, Dolphin wax and two others can not remember their names. Same sticking with Klass Kote.
I now use a semi-perment mold release 818 from Axel and PPG Concept single stage paint. I also am tring Trinity auto paint, you can find it on the internet, Candy Apple Red Metallic single stage urethane paint. Cost for a gallon with hardner and reducer is under $100 delivered. I think it is exceptable but you do get some color on your rag when cleaning you plane.
I would send you my Nelson paint but could not find it, must of dumped it.

Randy

SSAN

Thanks for the info, Randy! I guess I'll leave that alternative alone since it doesn't sound too promising.

As for the Klass Kote epoxy paint, I love the quality finished of the paint, but it doesn't works with painting-in-mold since the wings all stuck to the molds. Many wings was split in half and two wing halves I had to scrape it off by soaking thinner and let it sit before the epoxy get soft enough so I can scrape it off.

To answer the concerning question of using clear over wood fuse, automotive clear works real well. Just as Ed mentioned, the quality of the clear finished depend on the surface prep, and use s small spray or touch-up gun to shoot it.