nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

i need a replacment ignition for my turnigy 5.5hp. been looking at RCxel but i dont know enough to know that it will work. i do know the one that came with it is a piece of crap because if the plug cap comes off a millimetermy control surface are twitching. any help is appreciated. also need to know were to get one.

Steve S. Helland

My Feedback: (15)

Hi,
Are you replacing the ignition because the spark plug cap keeps falling off? If the ignition is fine why not just pull the high tension lead (if possible) from the coil and order a new one from the guy who bought out C&H? What about using a hose clamp on the boot to act as a retainer? You could call RC Excell and talk to them about your dilemma. I have one on my G-62 and it works fine. I know that DA ignitions are resin casted on the inside so modifying is hard however, call them and see if they can send you a new high tension lead?
The old C&H's used hose clamps, even the newer ones.
I converted an old C&H twin synchro-spark for my AIR HOBBIES 50cc twin to 10 mm plug boots...it was easy! (I had to in order for the engine to fit inside the cowling of my IMC STAUDACHER

These are just some ideas. I do know from experience that if the boot is acting loose there definately will be radio noise generated resulting in "radio hits" and this goes for ALL ignition engines.

I have been looking at the turnigy engines...how do they perform minus the ignition dilemma?
Prop?
CC?
RPM?

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

its a 50cc i dont know about rpm but with a 22x8 zoar it will pull 30.5 lbs of forceon a digital fish scale. the only thing about starting is you have to spin the prop over agood bit toget gas to it.then choke once you smell gas and two three flips itll fire and shut off. flip the choke off flip two or three and fires right up.ive had a prop strike with it on the maiden due to the cheap landing gear flexing but some carbon fiber and a new prop it fired right backup no problems. only thing is it will run fine for 5 to 7 min and then shut downif i go mid throttle. ill dead stick it and check everything and it fires up right away then fly for 3 to 5 min and shut off again. i need to take the cowl off and check the low and high but i dont think its a cooling problem considering theres at least 2 inches of cowl clearence all around the head. thats the whole reason i started looking at the ignition. im on vacation right now but when i get back ill look into the da plug wire. ill try the hose clamp first. i think adjusting the needles will help considering its only got about 4.5 gallons through it. its still breaking in. i run 93 octane with 40 to 1. that twiching is dangerous when your trying to land cuz my servos almost go to full deflection when the spark fires and the size of my alerons will make it flip on its lid in the blink of an eye.

ps. do u happen to have a pic of the hose clamp thing i think i know what ur talking about doing but i want to make sure so i dont make my problems worse. have a good one

mogman

Is C&H in new hands? Who is it and when did this happen? Website still says closed.

I hope Bill is recovering ok.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hi nickbeck, is this the only cowling air outlet?

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

yes it is the only outlet. everything is sealed on the fire wallother than the intakes on the front and the cut out for the motor

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

also around the back of the head theres around 4 inches of clearence. ill be home friday and could post a pic of it.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Ordinarily with a conventional pressure cowl such as on that airplane cooling is dependant entirely upon moving high pressure air from small front intakes and thru the cowl and out the bottom rear at firewall This will tend to flow air though the cooling fins.

If there is only a cutout around the cylinder head you are asking the air to make a ninety degree bend and travel accross the cooling fins. The entire sealed area behind the cylinder will act as a very efficient bake oven getting hotter and hotter by the moment.

I don,t know if that four inchs enough to work out or not but lets see the pictures. That outlet air needs to be behind that engine back at the firewall and not just behind the cylinder.

You still think its not overheating just fly the airplane without the cowling and that way you will know. It sounds to me like its just slowly roasting.

John

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

that thought didnt even cross my mind that the air would have to bend 90 degrees with my cut on the cowl but your probabaly right. this is my first gasser though   

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

ok heres the pic

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Nickbeck my apologies for not getting right back, I missed your picture post.

Hard to tell but it seems that those standoffs are bolted to a motor box and the real firewall may be some distance further back. always the outlet air needs to be as far back and you get next to the firewall. Alongside the cylinder it really does not need be that wide. Also make sure you have inlet air cutouts directly in front of the cylinder or the gills, that forward facing wide spot of a cowling designed to look like a full scale cowling of a opposed engine.

If I were you I first would fly the airplane agine without the cowling and that will confirm if you were having heating problems. If it runs without heating or flame outs then go back to your cowling and cutout the bottom all the way to the firewall but not as wide as you have along side the cylinder and the make sure you have cutout the forward facing intakes or perhaps widening them a bit.

This picture is a totally unrelated type of airplane but it illustrates the effort to remove the air behind the cylinder. Its a competion airplane and I made every effort to provide a free flow through an out the bottom. On this one it actually involved cutting out the bottom of the firewall to provide an air outlet tunnel.

John

nickbeck

My Feedback: (13)

theres a pretty good distance from the standoffs to the fire wall so what ill do is fly it without the cowl and see how it goes. then ill look into cutting the cowl more if that was the problem. i did put a hose clamp on the plug boot so it stays tight. ill let ya know what happens. thanks for the info