chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I just completed a plane covered with Solartex and while handling the plane, I accidently broke a stringer and tore a 2" section of the fabric. I was a little surprised with the low tear strength of the product. I know Koverall is a tougher material and will use it on the next plane. There has been a lot said about using waterbased polyurethanes, but what technique do you guys use for attaching it to the airframe? Do you just lay the fabric on the airframe, then brush over it Do you put a coat on polyu on the frame first and let it dry?

Chuck

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Seems like I have read of others doing that. So a site search and you should come up with a lot of information. I used Modge Podge from Micheal's Craft Stores. This is a latex product that is both a sealer and adhesive. You must first seal and sand the airframe to avoid the glue from soaking into the bare airframe and raising balsa hairs that would make your covering job look bad. Other than that if you have used silk and dope it is just about the same process.

dhal22

i finished my plane with 1/2oz fiberglass and polycrylic. I used sanding sealer 1st and then painted the glass with polyc directly on the wood.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

There is a lot of information out there, but nothing came up on the specifics on how people attach the Koverall with polyurethanes. I heard someplace that you can coat the frame with the polyurethane and than apply the Koverall using an iron.

Chuck

gene6029

My last warbird was finished with Sig Koverall & Minwax Polycrylic. I painted the airframe with Deft sanding sealer first, then put on a coat of Sig Stix it. I ironed on the Koverall next. Then i put down several coats of the polycrylic. More to fill the weave, less where i needed it to look like fabric. Then several coats of rattle can primer followed by spraying on latex house paint. I'll try and post some pics if they will post....Gene

gene6029

Pics wont post, sorry.[&o] The last few weeks its really been frustrateing here on RCU. I hope they get it straightened out...Gene (finally)!!!

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

I went over PolyC and dress liner in my Citabria build..

Koverall is very close so the same method should work.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62..._3/key_/tm.htm

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

sscherin

Thanks, it is the exactly what I was looking for. Do you coat the entire airframe with Polycrylic and let it dry before laying the fabric? As an example on a wing, LT, TE, wing tips, and rib cap strips? What temperature do you use on your iron and do you get any Polycrylic building up on the iron? I liked the idea of covering the wing with one piece, rather that individual pieces for the top and bottom. Is the primer really necessary?

Chuck

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

Attaching
I only bother to pre-coat any areas that I think will be difficult to get the fabric to lay down smoothly.. Tight curves, wing tips, hard corners like the Trailing edge and so on.

On a wing done as a one piece I'll coat the tips and TE..

lay the fabric on the bottom and paint on the TE and tips.. Don't coat the LE caps strips and whatnot...
I've found it's best to just hit the perimeter so the fabric is free move while shrinking..
Also if you coat the LE when doing a 1 piece job it tends to leave a bubble across the LE you'll have to iron out later..

Let it dry then iron down the tips and TE.. trim the TE and tip flush.. iron down the edge ..
be sure to keep enough material around the LE to make the wrap around the top
Wrap the fabric around and paint on the tips and TE..

as before let it dry then trim and iron down the LE and tips..

Now you can do a quick shrink of the fabric with the heat gun to get any wrinkles out..

For large solid surfaces I like to pre-coat the edges then paint on the fabric from the center..
When it's dry I'll iron and trim the corners..

For curves and corners you can pull and iron it around just like you would with a plastic film..
Then trim and iron the seam down..

Sometimes you'll have open frame areas like the ting tips on a Stik where the wet fabric will sag and attach to areas you don't want it to..
After it's dry simply pull the fabric up in there areas, pull tight and iron it back down at the edge..
If it's stuck on really good try heating the area with a gun or iron to get the fabric to pull off.

Yes the fabric really bonds well to the wood.. I've pulled up sheeting trying to strip a wing I'd covered with the wrong type of fabric..

Tempreture

I tend to fun my iron a bit hotter than I would for plastic film.. Call it the 3 o'clock position on the dial.
You may get a little poly build up on the shoe but a quick swipe (hot) on a towel or you jeans will clean it right off.

The fabric responds well to the heat gun but it is still possible to burn a hole in it..

Primer

You don't have to use a latex primer.. It's just my choice due to low/no odor, quick dry time, and easy sanding when wet sanded using a windex as a wetting agent.

Fabric

First thing is iron the wrinkles out of your fabric!!! set the covering iron to a low setting (1/4 turn or less) and iron the folding seams and wrinkles out before attaching the fabric to the airframe.. Those folding seams don't like to lay down after they are coated so it's best to deal with them first. It only takes a minute or two to do..
If you see any shrinking of the fabric you have the iron to hot..

I haven't' used Koverall but I've found all is not equal when it comes to dress liner..

Be sure to get 100% polyester fabric.. I got a cotton/poly blend one time by mistake. It was a nightmare because it wouldn't stay shrunk..

The dress liner that Walmart sells is not fun to work with.. It's coarse, hard to wet out and dificult to fill.

The material I get from a store like Hobby Lobby (the craft store) or JoAnn's fabric has a much tighter weave and takes poly with little effort.
They charge twice the price as Wal-mart but 40% off coupons for those stores are easy to find nearly every week.

Trimming
Keep lots of fresh blades handy and don't hesitate to pick up a new one if the trimming starts to get difficult.

I'll go through a dozen or so trimming a 40 size plane.. The fabric dulls them quickly and a sharp edge is critical for smooth trimming.





My Dress liner and PolyC covered stik
latex primer, rattle can color and WB Exterior Spar Urethane top coat. (Fuel resistant but not fuel proof.. Must be cleaned after flight or it will get tacky.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

sscherin-

Are seams visible, or can you feather them with a light sandpaper like you can with fiberglass?

Brian

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

After a few coats of poly and primer you can't see the seams.
You can sand it but don't go crazy.. You can sand through the fabric.
Treat it like any other fabric covering method.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I tried covering a test piece and the Koverall didn't stick very well at all. Half the test piece was coated with Polycrylic and let dry. The other half was left uncoated. The Koverall was layed on the test piece and Polycrylic was applied over the balsa structure. After eight hours of time, it didn't take much effort to lift Koverall from the structure. A lot less force was needed than it takes to remove Solartex. I only tried to removed a short section, so I went over the remaining material with a hot iron, and that didn't improve the adhesion. The iron was hot enough to soften the Polycrylic. Any suggestions?

Chuck

gene6029

Use the Sig Stix it, but seal the wood first or the water based poly could cause other problems. It can be done many ways, but this is fool proof. I dont use the stuff because i like the smell, i use it because it works.....Gene........ Ps There are no seams to be found on my Chipmunk

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

sscherin,

Do you have any specific information on what dress liner you bought a JoAnn's? I picked some up today and without any discount, it was $5.99/yd, making it more expensive than Koverall.

Chuck

huck1199

I bought Sunlight dress lining - 100% polyester. Comes in white and several colors $3.99 for 54" x 36". 

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Where do you buy it?

Chuck

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

Joann's and Hobby Lobby 40% off coupons are easy to get.. Just sign up for the retail flier and they will show up in the mail or by Email...

Look for this one at JoAnns
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...ID=xprd1006640

If you order it online use code WHPS29 for 40% off one item.. Good till Jan 29th 2011

wattmeter

bps
you say you Modge Podge, any certain one since there is so many types?
wattmeter[]

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I used the glue/sealer. Thinned with water and Floetrol it makes a great weave filler. I used it full strength to seal the balsa though. Took a couple of coats with light sanding in between, then thinned it down to brush through the fabric to adhere the fabric to the airframe. I think the plastic bottle was white with red trim. Product number is CS11301. Actually called Mod Podge.

huck1199

JoAnnes carries the Sunline 100% polyester dress lining.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I stopped at JoAnn's here in Fort Myers today and they didn't have any. They said they don't necessarily sell the same product as is sold on their website.

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

Hobby lobby (the craft store) 40% off coupon
http://www.hobbylobby.com/emailCouponLanding/

Chuck..

The fabric will be stuck down better after the 2nd or 3rd coat of poly.