RSprinkel

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Hi all,

I know this is either gonna sound stupid, but has anyone tried chroming out a cyclinder head, either by dipping in hot chrome or using the Automotive chrome spray paint? Reason asking is I bought a used Tower Hobbies .46 and the purple color has faded pretty bad and would like to do something different. If anyone has done this could you please let me know how it turned out and/or show pics plez. I have this in my new Extra 300S that is in my Gallery.


THANKS very much in advance.

Papa Tango

Take your cylinder head to an electro-plater, but be sure you have a way to seal off the interior working surfaces from the plating solution. The electro-plater will be able to tell you how to do this.

Good Luck

bikz

will this cause the engine to over heat?
i know of a friend who did with an electro plater....the engine looks all beautiful and shiny but it just wouldnt reach peak rmp since.....
Actually chrome actually reflects heat right? but is this whats happening here os is it vice-versa.

nitro joe

My Feedback: (2)

You might find someone who does "glass beading"
Then spray a "light" coat of flat header paint on it.
Chrome may turn out to be an insulator.

There's a guy on the 1/2a board that does some anodizing also.

RSprinkel

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks all for your reply. I will post a message on the 1/2A board and see if the guy will reply. I don't know how it will act if it is an insulator nor do I want it to act up and wind up putting this in the dirt. So I guess I will try to do alittle more research on it.

Again THANKS for your replies :thumbup:

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I don't recommend chroming your head (I mean your engine's head!). Chrome will indeed hold in the heat rather than letting it disipate. Best bet is to leave it as is. If you must have it "pretty" have it anodized. This way you can pick what color you want and it will not overheat.

FP

RSprinkel

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Well really don't need it pretty, just thought it would look better in a new plane. Kinda yucky looking too sticking out of a white cowl if you catch my drift, hehe. Anyways roughly what is the going rate to have it anodized? And where would I take this too, an Auto shop or something? Just curious as this is new to me.

Thanks much in advance

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

Take it off & take it to a motorcycle shop or engine re-builder & have them glass bead it to natural alum. Leave a old glow plug in it with out the washer. MAX H.

Crash_N_Burn

Traditional (sulfuric) anodizing plants usually don't guarantee the finished product will be the same size as it was prior to anodizing. Usually it's plus or minus .020".

Also, many won't touch guns, automotive trim and certain engine parts as they are unsure of the aluminum content. If it's not pure aluminum it has a chance of desolving in the anodizing tank.

Minimum charges vary around the country but it's usually between US$50-125.00. Not cheap.

Although I'm not familiar with the process, bright-dipping may be what was originally on your cylinder head. It is more forgiving with close tolerances although it's a nasty process.

Look in the telephone book yellow pages under anodizing plants or a Google search and you'll find a few.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Better yet, call Tower Hobbies and order a new head. I haven't checked their website for your part, but I'll bet they have it in stock and it's probably a lot cheaper than getting your old one treated.

FP

FlyingPilgrim

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Here's the part you need. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJB09&P=Z

RSprinkel

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Hi All,

Again Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I didn't think about checking with Tower about a new cover. So I think I will go ahead and order a new one. Wish I had known this 2 days ago as I would have put this on my order that I just did. Shame they just shipped it out today. Ohhh Well always a day late and a few parts short, hehehe.

Again Thank You ALL!!!

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

When you get your new one , send me your old one & I will clean & polish it for you . Just cost you postage. You can find my address in the AMA magazine in the District IX section . MAX HANSEN

RSprinkel

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Thanks for your help, would love to do that but I won't be able to find your addy as I am not signed up with AMA yet. Can you PM me your addy or send it to my email address?

Thanks again.

big max 1935

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Sent you PM . MAX H.

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

heheh.. Max,, you like doing polishing..?

I have a thing for polishing all my alumn parts, and yes, I even
have a couple of totally polished motors...
Usually, I just do heads, carbs, and mufflers on the motors,
and them do landing gear, control horns, motor mounts on the
planes..

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

Usually when I re-furbish a engine I just polish what was brite aluminum to try to bring it back close to original . Some times I polish the gear or engine turn it. It's fun . MAX H.

Kaos Rulz

Do you use jewelers' rouge to do this?

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

In concerning bigger engines, General Motors did a study back in the early 1960's as to overheating problems with the Corvair. It was found that if the cases, cylinders, and oil pan was polished, it ruined the heat dissipation. Their sand cast appearances aided in cooling, although it held dirt and dry oil. Honda and two of the European motorcycle manufacturers found that rough cast cylinders cooled better than shiney clean ones, as all the dimples created more surface area for cooling. This is probably why most model A/C engines have only a bit of polishing done around the fins for cosmetic purposes.

Then, too, chrome plating is only part of the process. The object then needs to be polished. Doubtfull your local plater would have buffing wheels small enough to go down in between the cooling fins.



Wm.

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry Ed thought I answered you but must have not pushed the GO button ( senior moment). I use several things , mostly the stick polishing compounds from Sears, mostly the dark red one . Also use Brasso, Flits & Mothers . Engine turning I use rubbing compound or fine valve grinding compound with a little oil. I have found the best engine turning tool is a short dowel with a pad cut from a leather belt , glue the smooth side to the dowel. MAX H.

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

MAX..
For 'engine turning ' ever try 3M Scotch Bright ..
It works,, it lasts, and it is less messy..
You can get a whole .60 landing gear done with one piece as
long as you don't apply too much pressure down when marking
the alum..

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Robby , I will try it , a person needs to learn something new every day. MAX H.

Spaceclam

Where can you get chrome and how do you heat it?

Crash_N_Burn

Oh, Mr. Spaceclam, don't even think about doing chroming at home.

It's far more than just heating a chrome solution and dipping.

One first has to apply a copper strike and then a nickel strike prior to the chrome bath. Prior coverings must be stripped in a caustic solution.

It is an involved, complicated process and it is NASTY.

I'll bet in 10 years there are only a handful of chrome platers left in North America as they're all moving operations outside of the U.S. to escape DEQ regulations.

I won't say it can't be done at home, but the chances of success are minimal. (and your health is in jeopardy).

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

What C&B says...
Chromium or a chromium alloy is a metal.. It is rather clear unless
it is thick but it is then extremely brittle.. It is one of the hardest
metals <elements>..
Where not very often copper is used to do electro plating nickle
is.. The nickle is what gives chrome that bright silver look...
Chrome is also used as a hardener.. Most electric motors you
have in your residence have chrome plated shafts..
A high amp electrical supply is needed to get the basic material
to 'partical' while submersed in a carrier <water or water based>..
As the particials are released into the carrier the electro field of
the submerse tank which have a POS and a NEG. The tank being
POS and the part have probe to make it NEG which is how the
chrome particals attack and stick to the part.
Now, you want shinney chrome.. Welll then, bucky.. Thats more
work.. Before you even tank the part it has to be polished.. Then,
the next added material <copper or nickle> needs to be polished..
Then then next added material needs to be polished..
After polishing EACH time the part has to be cleaned very well for
the next electro process to be able to happen or the plating will
not adhere..
So, basically,, unless you have over 200 amp per line service
available and an EPA certificate, and polishing set-up, you aren't
going to be doing this at home...