Low Wing

My Feedback: (1)

Got a Gee Bee Y 120 from Chief Aircraft...great model...great construction...aluminum hardware...fly's great...

Ultra Coat covering...hmmmmmm...this covering is coming up and in place's the clear is separating from the color...

What I know...apply at 200 degree's (found out later)
what I did...when I got this model I did like I always's do...I go over it with a iron and pull out any wrinkle's and or tac down any spot's where it may be coming up

I don't know what the temp was on my iron (I've always's worked with mono-coat) and had no problems

Do you think I may have burned this covering by mistake or is it just crappy covering...thanks

crashland73

My Feedback: (3)

I'm by no means an expert but I have allways used ultracoat and just for the first time used monocoat the other day. I like them both. But as for the problem you have, is a puzzler. You might have not put it on right. I had to learn with my first time with monocoat. They both act differently with the irons and the heat gun. Monocoat, well when i done it, with the heat gun, run it over and lift, repeat until tight. But with ultracoat, heat ever so lightly steadily until tightens. and so on with the seams. Hope this helps.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

Monokote usually requires quite a bit more heat thatn ultracoat. I think you may have gotten it to hot. Or else it's not really ultracoat. I prefer ultracoat by a long shot myself, but it's really what you get used too.

Steve Campbell2

MonoKote will withstand temps approaching 500 degrees. UltraCote starts cooking at around 400 degrees. Or so says my thermometer that I use to check iron temp with.

I've used both, and IMO UltraCote is hands-down easier to use. As with any plastic film, the edges must be sealed at high heat for it to stay down, but the chances of me using MonoKote again are slim to none.

You may have burned it with too hot an iron. I've never seen it seperate like you describe, though. I've found that 200 degrees is a good temp for initial attachment. Once its down, I go back over it at 375 degrees for sealing and shrinking.

If it came up under a 200 degree iron, then something is wrong.

Steve

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Low Wing..

I switched from Monokote to Ultracoat 4 years ago. Based on what I know and use, it appears to me that you simply got the seams/seam area too hot along with the rest. Also, since you didn't do the original covering you don't know what temperature was used to do the initial shrink.

Basically, Untracote goes down at 200-220 which is the point where the adhesive bonds to the frame (I use 220). No shrink takes place at this temp. Shrink begins around 300. Once the Ultracote has been attached then it is shrunk (starting at 300). However, you must stay away from the seams as the shrink temp will cause the adhesive to release. If you need to get close to a seam then you really should use some kind of "heat sink" on the seams. Damp cloth works. I use a piece of aluminum "tbar" on surfaces that are flat and a damp cloth on other surfaces.

My experience has been that once you heat a seam where the adhesive begins to release the chances of that seam becoming a problem increases greatly. When I re-shrink I use either a gun or iron (depending on what I am doing) and avoid heat around any seam or use a "heat sink".

In order to re-shrink covering, you usually need to exceed the temperature that it was last shrunk. Given that, I always shrink my covering at the lowest shrink temp. I think at 300 or 310 Ultracote has shrink about 20%. Max shrink temp is 350. Anything over 350 is probably going to damage the covering or make adhesion a crap shoot.

Well, that's just what I know from working with Ultracoat. I really do like this covering as it is easy to use and if the "rules" are followed is pretty much a "low maintenance" covering.

My nickle here...

Good luck...

Dan

Vette1

My Feedback: (1)

I wonder if the covering you have is actually
Ultracoat.I know with Monokote pulling an edge
loose with not enough heat will separate the color
from the backing. With Ultracoat this does not happen
the color goes clear thru the covering. I find
Ultracoat more easily pulls around curves for me.
Maybe you have the low temp Monokote or Ultracote.

Vette1

Low Wing

My Feedback: (1)

1.) I didn't put this covering on it came as a arf...so I don't know the original temp

2.) It is Ultra Coat because I ordered some more from the Dist. out in CALLY-four-nee...

3.) I'm picking up a new iron today and a temp. gage

4.) I see why you guy's like UC better than MC cause the stuff lay's across the surface better...But right now I'm kinda haten' me and the UC cause I ventured into the unknown alone...and this model is a $450 arf...

5.) I'm going with all the great advice here and try to fix my mess...It ain't horrible...it's just that I like my stuff looking perfect...thanks...Bill

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I am going to check this when I get home, but unless I'm mistaken (it's happened before), Ultracote sticks at 180*, starts to shrink at 200* and when it has reached 300*, it will not shrink any farther.

Steve Campbell2

Dan,

The only place I have ever had problems with seams coming apart is when it over an open (non-sheeted/solid) area, such as wing rib bays or between fuselage structural parts. Seams on solid wood, such as the wing leading edge, are easily "locked down" with a trim iron on High. You can then shrink away with no worries.

But you're right about open areas; better be VERY careful. And your technique of only shrinking as much as absolutely necessary is a good idea. I may try it next covering job. But that will be a while, since I'm still traumatized from covering that bloody Contender...<G> The sucker has more corners and angles than a politician!

Steve