andrewskj

I am having problems using an sock over my monokote iron don't seem to get hot enough what temp is needed to get good results i have a thermometer so I can set it . I am trying to smooth a new ARF and it says to use a sock over your iron to smooth out the monokote. please help thank you .... Ken

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, I get the same results.

So, instead, I put the bare iron foot on the covering, and don't rub it around. After a second or so I remove the iron and rub the covering with the sock. I figure the iron melts the adhesive, and the sock keeps the covering in place while the adhesive cools. Seems to give me good results.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

SeamusG

Just curious - have you tried laying tissue over the covering? Much thinner than the typical sock but still isolates the iron face from the film.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I shrink the wrikles out with a heat gun and then go over the area with the iron with sock while the area is still warm. This gets it tight and adheres it tothe structure well

SeamusG

Similar to but different from speed's suggestion - use a heat gun to heat the film and follow it up immediately with a soft towel.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I just turn the iron up until it works. I have never checked to see what the temp is, it either works or it doesn't. If it doesn't then it needs to be hotter.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I use cotton baby socks on my irons and have never had a problem getting them hot enough to shrink and stick coverings. However, it might be easier for the OP to use a heat gun to shrink the covering and activate the glue then immediately smooth it down and make sure it adheres with your other hand. Follow right behind that heat gun with your other hand with a hot sock on it. (I think they call those things "hot sock") You could also wrap a soft towel around your hand and do the same thing, but your hand has to be fully endlosed because these guns get HOT.

biam

Dont use a wool boot sock!I use a short white sock, like for tennis shoes, and do like GreyBeard, turn it up if not working. My irons pointer on the knob is around 3\4 of the way to maxed out when covering.

SeamusG

Synthetic athletic socks are not a good choice. Used one when I was soldering - instead of a sponge. Oops.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

You know not every roll of mono will shrink. Like who hasn't run into that. It's one big reason I started using Ultra.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Cotton T shirts


John

Bozarth

My Feedback: (15)

The wife's old flannel PJ's are my favorite. Cut some over-sized pieces and then cable tie them on.

Kurt

Augie11

John has the right idea. You can't use too thick a material. What I did was order a commercial TopFlite sock and my wife matched the material (somekind of muslin/cotton) and then she matched the sock pattern. Now she makes them for me so I always have 'clean socks' Never need to turn the iron above the 2.5 setting for mono, 2.3 for 21st Century fabric and about 2.1 for Solartex

RCPAUL

My Feedback: (1)

If you cannot get enough heat, take off the knob and turn the adjustment screw CW to increase the heat.

Paul

raptureboy

baby socks work too. You do need to check your temp though for the covering your using. I use that little temp gauge made by coverite. I agree Monokote quality is unreliable, I've had models covered that would not shrink no matter how much heat and only wrinkled more.[:@]

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

I have a new method, after about 10 years of using the sock. I went out and bought a new iron, and store it in a foam box. I am very careful not to scratch it.

The unscathed perfect iron will not foul the covering. I also keep the temperature reasonable enough to shrink the covering and bond the adhesive, but not hot enough to melt and leave residue on the iron. If I do get residue on the iron, I put the sock on, and rub it around...which eventually cleans the iron again.

Not bad at all. I've found that a scratched iron, and too much pressure are what ruins the covering job.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I just started using old T-shirts, like JohnBuckner. I gather the extra materiel behind the control knob using a thick rubberband. Works great!

rgburrill

I use a Top flite sock but use the Monokote iron very little. I usually use a heat gun and a real iron (NOT STEAM). The real iron heats a much large section and does a fantastic job of shrinking the Monokote. I use the small iron only for small areas likefairings.
Just don't let your wife catch you - you don't want her to know you can actually use an iron.

OldFart1

I was waiting for someone to point that out. I only cover in the basement when my wife's out of town, and make sure to put the monokote iron in the BACK of the toolbox when done. She'd be sure to point out that "an iron is an iron"......

t.m.p.

are you still having problems with your hot sock not getting enough heat to shrink the covering? so was I. I had covered a marks model pitts with monokote solid wings and put strips of balsa to simulate ribs and could not get the covering to shrink with the iron or heat gun. so here is the scary part, I decided to put the sock on the iron and turn it up on high and put it to the wing. the sock keeps the hot iron off of the monokote put it across the ribs if you can and do not push down and it pulled the monokote as tight as a drum, and it worked great on the wing tips. when you have wrinkles in monokote and you did not get them to hot use your sock and hold the iron against them they will come out but do not press down or slide it.

t.m.p.

while the iron is warm put some rubbing alcohol on a rag and rub off the color or glue on the bottom of your iron.

sensei

I use a Coverite 21st century Iron and the socks you can buy for it, never had any issues so far.

Bob

t.m.p.

I never used a coverite iron. I don't have problems with my iron if you use it properly, I was just suggesting to turn any iron high with a sock on it to get the wrinkles out of the covering and if you develop air bubbles just ***** the covering with a pin and work the bubble to the small hole.

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

+1. You have to determine the right temperature by trial and error anyway. I just finished a major repair job that ended by applying a couple of rolls of yellow Monokote. Both went on OK, but one of them needed the iron to be about 20 degrees (F) hotter than the other. Probably came from different factories in China.

t.m.p.

have you heard of doculam covering? it is clear and it is great stuff. it requires a little more heat it pulls tight and there is no backing to pull off. the only draw back is you have to paint it. it comes in 250 foot rolls and will last a very long time. will it is on the roll you can sand it to give the paint some grip. it comes from Oregon at I think it was $23.00 free shipping. it sounds like you keep your iron pretty low or was that a typo. look up the product on google. I called the number and picked the nice ladies brain about the covering. it is really not an actual material for covering but it works. I put a line down the center of my elevator half the thickness of the balsa and on the bottom of it on the leading edge I drew a line across it half the thickness of the elevator and sanded up to both lines. that put the perfect angle on the leading edge, then I put thin strips on the trailing and leading edge of both stab and elevator so it just goes over the top and bottom.put the elevator on top of the stab even with the trailing edge of the stab hold it tight against it and put another piece to sandwich them both together secure it good to both leading and trailing edge. now put the piece on a flat service and secure a piece across the top. now you have a perfect no gap hinge maybe mostly all flutter has been eliminated. now when you cover the top of the stab just cover the whole thing as it was one piece. cover the bottom as you would if it was two pieces.