chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I'm considering recovering one of my planes. How do you apply the new covering if the control surfaces are still attached, ie covering around the hinges which in this case are Robarts.

Chuck

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

You cover that area first before the main surface area. Cut and fit pieces of covering to fit between the hinges and smaller pieces to fit directly over and under each hinge. I usually use my trim iron with the flat blade tip installed (Top Flite trim seal tool). Your regular covering iron is too fat to get in there. Same deal for the movable control surface hinge area. After covering all the nooks and corners cover the main surface area and trim the edges at the hinge area leaving a 1/8" or so to iron down into the hinge area for a seamless looking finish. It takes more time and patience than a non assembled wing or tail but it works. For me ALL covering takes time and patience!

SeamusG

Disclaimer: I use Ultracote and am very comfortable with its stretch-n-shrink capability. I have no clue if Monokote or others behave in a similar manner.

I would "cut in" all of the hinge lines then cover the fields.

The hinge lines: cut a long narrow strip of film that will cover the entire hinge line. Tape it in place and mark the location of the Robart hinge points. Remove the strip and cut out rounded slots just wide enough to go around the hinge points and deep enough so that the film covers the entire LE or TE. Slide the film into the hinge line around the hinge points with the adhesive towards the fixed structure (wing, rudder, stab). Use Larry's trim iron and seal the film to the fixed surface's trailing edge from the bottom. Flip it over and seal the film from the other side.

Repeat from the bottom of the control surface.

Flip it over and repeat from the top for both the fixed and control surface. This will give you a top-over-bottom overlap - totally sealing the hinge line from dirt and fuel residue.

You can trim the cut in strips flush with the surface using a new X-acto #11 blade or single sided razor blade. Chose NOT to use a new blade and you will just tear the film creating a ragged edge.

When you cover the field of the surfaces go ahead and leave a 3/16" to 1/4" overlap strip and seal it down into the hinge line. Make sure that the margin is not SO wide that it would need to be notched for the hinge points.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks, it doesn't sound so tough to do.

Chuck

jester_s1

Option 2, and this is what I do, is flex the surface away from the direction the covering is going and tuck it in with a card, then seal it down with the tip of the iron and keep on going to the control surface. That also seals the hinge gaps which benefits some planes. Once it's done nobody notices it since the covering does still follow the contour of the hinge joint.

SeamusG

Option 2 is a good option as it seals both sides of the hinge gap - nice and clean. Only question - with Robart hinge points (round little suckers) will they create any kind of issue?

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Robart also makes a flat hinge, the OP didn't mention what type he is using? How I recover a plane without removing the hinges depends on the hinge type. When I cover a plane they are usually completely assembled to begin with. Before I hinge the control surfaces I use fillets to cover tight areas then I cover in one piece without any gaps. If hinge pins were used then fillets can be done by slipping covering between the gaps. You can do that with both types of hinges but it is harder if flat hinges were used. Only because I get almost no gap when using the flat type. I also use Ultra and only use mono for trim work.

dbacque

My Feedback: (3)

If the color scheme is going to be the same as the original or "close enough", don't remove the covering from the hinge line.

What I've done is remove the covering from wing and aileron but leave the covering in the hinge line and 1/4" or more on top and bottom on both aileron and wing. Then apply the new covering up to the hinge line, sealing to the remaining strip.

Tastes great, less filling.

Dave

SeamusG

dbacque makes a good suggestion. If you do this be careful not to cut into the underlying wood when you "leave" 1/4" on the top and bottom.

Know your enemy - Be aware that covering film is a 2-piece film. Monokote's top (exposed) layer is glossy and contains the color and the bottom is an uncolored adhesive. Utracote's top is a clear layer and the bottom is the adhesive and color. Not sure about the other products.

dbacque

My Feedback: (3)

John is right, I should have mentioned to be careful when you remove the covering, that you don't want to cut into the balsa. If you're really careful and use a brand new X-acto blade, use a finger nail to allow only the tiniest amount of penetration. I've also read about using a hot soldering iron to cut film covering without harming the balsa but I've never used that trick.

John, are you sure about the construction of MonoKote? Frequently when I peel a piece of MonoKote I get a separation and pull off clear film, leaving the colored adhesive behind. I thought in MonoKote the adhesive WAS the color.

Dave