Titebond glue
#2
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RE: Titebond glue
I've used it a lot with building my wings. I'll us CA to glue ribs to spars and the leading edge (saves time). But will use Titebond for the shear webs and gluing on the sheeting. It allows a builder the time to place, pin, tape or use weight to hold the pieces together before the glue dries. Arguably it is a stronger bond then CA (not as brittle). For strength/high stress areas (like joining the wing panels together) one cannot bet the strength of epoxy.
this is what I've done for many years of modeling and have of yet to experience a wing failure.
this is what I've done for many years of modeling and have of yet to experience a wing failure.
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RE: Titebond glue
tschuy us right on. There are several kinds of glues to be used in model building and each has its express puropses, but for gluing wing components together, Titebond is as good as any and better than most.
#7
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RE: Titebond glue
If you don't already know it, here is a little trick for titebond that I use on occasion. paint a layer on two opposing surfaces of wood (thin sections of wood) and let them dry. Then, using an iron (monocote iron works) on a high setting, iron the two surfaces together. They will bond from the heat. I use this fairly often to glue wing sheeting onto ribs and such. EXPERIMENT FIRST!
#8
RE: Titebond glue
Other than ca's I usually spread a thin layer of glue on each piece, then put them togeather for a second, pull them apart then put them back togeather. ( if it's conveient ).
By doing this it pushes out most of the air holes you get by just putting them togeather.. I learned this while selling and working with lumber yards, specialitiy shops and model kit mfg's . ENJOY !!! RED
By doing this it pushes out most of the air holes you get by just putting them togeather.. I learned this while selling and working with lumber yards, specialitiy shops and model kit mfg's . ENJOY !!! RED
#9
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RE: Titebond glue
I use it for a number of things. I still use more CA then anything but I keep about 6 different types of glue on my bench most the time. I fill a small bottle with the TB glues from a gallon jug at my wood workers club, type II or III, doesn't mater to me for models but as I recall the type III is more water repellent.
#10
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RE: Titebond glue
I use Titebond almost exclusively for my balsa models, most of which are quite large. I've use all three types with success but slightly prefer type II although type III is also good. The original is great unless you are going to have a lot of moisture in or on the structure at some time. Type II sands a bit easier than type III. I've also had good luck with Elmers Carpenters Glue.
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RE: Titebond glue
I use Titebond II for probably 90% of my construction, No fumes and a whole lot cheaper than CA. I use a couple of these to put it where I want it.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGG7&P=7
And spread it with old gift cards.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGG7&P=7
And spread it with old gift cards.
#15
RE: Titebond glue
Yep, I tack the ribs and spars with thin CA, then hit all the joints with Titebond and a syringe, and then takce on the rest of the parts with thin CA and do the same with them. Same with the Fuse, tack with CA and finish glue with TB. Strong structure when dried. If you are in a hurry though......
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RE: Titebond glue
I use Titebond II mostly as well. And I also use the afore mentioned heat method for sheeting or where I want a quicker drying time. I just finished an entire wing by laying it all up, useing magnet's, and the preglueing wait five minute's then hit with the heat gun. Total time to glue once layed up is about ten minutes.
#17
RE: Titebond glue
ORIGINAL: acdii
Yep, I tack the ribs and spars with thin CA, then hit all the joints with Titebond and a syringe, and then takce on the rest of the parts with thin CA and do the same with them. Same with the Fuse, tack with CA and finish glue with TB. Strong structure when dried. If you are in a hurry though......
Yep, I tack the ribs and spars with thin CA, then hit all the joints with Titebond and a syringe, and then takce on the rest of the parts with thin CA and do the same with them. Same with the Fuse, tack with CA and finish glue with TB. Strong structure when dried. If you are in a hurry though......
#21
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RE: Titebond glue
ORIGINAL: RCFlyerDan
Used to be all we used prior to CA
Used to be all we used prior to CA
I still have a tube of Sigment on my bench but it sure doesn't hold like it used to? I was told the new Sigment and Ambroids had one of there main ingredients removed from them? Something to do with dumbasses sniffing the stuff?? What ever they have done it still takes all night to set up and doesn't hold very well at all.
#22
Senior Member
RE: Titebond glue
I used many a tube of ambroid and Testors cement some 50/60 years ago. I never did find it as being very strong. I do remember that it would make a pretty brittle joint that did not stand up well to shock loads and, if you did not precoat the joints, it was really a weak structure. All the new glues are many times better and stronger than those old ones were. The only thing good about those old glues was the vapors and smell, if you were not careful you could get a pretty good high off them.
#23
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RE: Titebond glue
I don't recall ever pre coating the parts with the Ambroids, then again, I don't recall what I had for lunch yesterday either. I do know that this new tube of Sigment I have is about useless though. I just came in for lunch and I'm letting the TB III set up so I can start sanding. That reminds me, sanding CA is almost a useless endeavor but TB sands very well, another plus in it's favor.
#24
Senior Member
RE: Titebond glue
I do remember double gluing with Ambroid. And I don't always remember what I had for lunch TODAY. I never used Sigment. That I remember I think...
I've used Elmers and Titebond forever. Before CA came along, I'd thin some titebond with pure water to put together a wing in a night. It seemed to need the thinning to be easier to use. A small paintbrush made it work. It was quicker to apply and was easier to get the right amount in the right place. CA doesn't bother me unless I get too much in one place, and I love the way the stuff works.
And of course, nowadays I don't do any scratch building. I still got the drawing board and pens, but just don't have the contests to go to anymore. They were the inspiration for the new designs.
Any aliphatic glue does good. CA does too. We got the best of both worlds.
I've used Elmers and Titebond forever. Before CA came along, I'd thin some titebond with pure water to put together a wing in a night. It seemed to need the thinning to be easier to use. A small paintbrush made it work. It was quicker to apply and was easier to get the right amount in the right place. CA doesn't bother me unless I get too much in one place, and I love the way the stuff works.
And of course, nowadays I don't do any scratch building. I still got the drawing board and pens, but just don't have the contests to go to anymore. They were the inspiration for the new designs.
Any aliphatic glue does good. CA does too. We got the best of both worlds.
#25
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RE: Titebond glue
ORIGINAL: da Rock
I do remember double gluing with Ambroid. And I don't always remember what I had for lunch TODAY. I never used Sigment. That I remember I think...
I've used Elmers and Titebond forever. Before CA came along, I'd thin some titebond with pure water to put together a wing in a night. It seemed to need the thinning to be easier to use. A small paintbrush made it work. It was quicker to apply and was easier to get the right amount in the right place. CA doesn't bother me unless I get too much in one place, and I love the way the stuff works.
And of course, nowadays I don't do any scratch building. I still got the drawing board and pens, but just don't have the contests to go to anymore. They were the inspiration for the new designs.
Any aliphatic glue does good. CA does too. We got the best of both worlds.
I do remember double gluing with Ambroid. And I don't always remember what I had for lunch TODAY. I never used Sigment. That I remember I think...
I've used Elmers and Titebond forever. Before CA came along, I'd thin some titebond with pure water to put together a wing in a night. It seemed to need the thinning to be easier to use. A small paintbrush made it work. It was quicker to apply and was easier to get the right amount in the right place. CA doesn't bother me unless I get too much in one place, and I love the way the stuff works.
And of course, nowadays I don't do any scratch building. I still got the drawing board and pens, but just don't have the contests to go to anymore. They were the inspiration for the new designs.
Any aliphatic glue does good. CA does too. We got the best of both worlds.
A scratch builder draws there own designs and plans then cuts there parts themselves, a plans builder buys the plans and cuts there own kit from the templates drawn on the plans and builds the plane. Kit builders buy a pre cut kit and build the pre cut parts.
Then you have the ARFers that glue all the pre built and covered pieces together. Assembling!
I use the term plans builder myself, I haven't designed and built my own sense 1963. Plans are much easier for me these days. I no longer have my drafting board or machine and have never been able to figure out how to use a CAD on a computer. I'm lucky to have figured out email.