heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Getting close to purchasing the paint for my J3 cub covered in sig koverall. I have used klaskote epoxy over fiberglass which works really good. Since the koverall with nitrate dope is a lot flexing I was thinking the latex and clear would be the better choice. Would like to hear others opinion on this.

ARUP

I use nitrate dope to seal the weave as you have done then shoot color butyrate dope over that. Finish with a clear coat. It is very lightweight.

yel914

I use Minwax Polycrylic to fill the weave, latex for color, and top with either Nelsons clear or Klass Kote clear. You can add talc to the PolyC to help fill the weave. Painting with latex has a bit of a learning curve, but once you get it down you may be a convert. Search out Roy Vaillencourt for more latex info, he's the man.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I'm doing exactly the same as yel914 with the same products except for the clear. I'm getting clear in a rattle can from an automotive paint supply store. I'm shooting the latex with a cheap HVLP paint gun. Using household latex paint makes the choices of color almost limitless and using fine line masking tape to form paint schemes makes the schemes limited only by your imagination. It makes for a beautiful, very strong, light weight finish.

jester_s1

Which clear are you getting? If it's the stuff they sell on the shelves that's a lacquer it may not be fuel proof. But if you're getting a 2 part urethane put into a paint can you'll be fine.

dadragon

nitrate dope mixed with alum paste to fill the weave latex (meadow gold )from HomeDepot clear coat with min polycrylic,I like the satin finish.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

jester, it is a two part paint that has a capsule in it that you have to break with a plunger in the bottom of the can to activate it. This stuff is like ceramic when it sets up. It has two draw backs: it is EXPENSIVE and once activated, you have to use it all or lose what is in the can because it will set up in the can. Evidently some kind of chemical reaction that doesn't require air to work. I don't believe I will buy any more as the planes I am building just aren't fancy enough to justify this expense. If I were building multi thousand dollar planes, then it would be justified. It's like some other things I have done in RC. I tried it, it worked, but it just ain't worth the money.

yel914

Fuel proofing clear coats have caused me a lot of grief. Any decent clear coat is expensive. I finally found the best solution to the problem, at least for me. I've sold off my glow engines and gone electric

jester_s1

I've heard good things about those systems Jolly Popper. To me, as yel914 points out, the biggest drawback to using glow is the difficulty in finding a good fuel proof paint. FWIW, Systems 3 water based polyurethane is the same paint that Nelson's sells. It is available in both colors and clear, and when you add the crosslinker it is fuel proof. It's not cheaper than the other options on the market, but when you figure in that you don't have to buy special reducer for it it becomes one of the best buys out there. Plus it doesn't have fumes so you can use it indoors without any special ventilation if you brush it.